Hi Karl, this is great thread! I have one quesiton, did you also do some modification to cat. when you modify exhaust and removed DPF?
Karls 3.0 TDI build thread
- Thread starter desertstorm
- Start date
Small update after I spotted something when surfing.
Bought a second hand set of rear discs off the latest RS4 model. These are the same size as the discs I changed recently however they are lighter, cross drilled and will perform better on the track.
I certainly wouldn't buy a pair of these new as the cheapest I have seem them is £450 a pair. I paid £70 with the postage . New these are 22mm thick and the minimum thickness is 20mm, these measure at 21.3mm thick so only 35% worn.
Cleaned the loose rust and scabs off the disc as well as polishing the aluminium centre a bit.
Weighed the new and old discs and the ones I fitted recently weigh in at 7.7Kg each, the RS4 items weigh 5.9kg each so a saving of nearly 2Kg each side. This is reduced unsprung weight and also a reduction in the weight of the rotating parts as well as improved brakes.
Car needs a bit of a wash as it hasn't been done for a while. Maybe this weekend if I have time after picking up all the leaves in the garden and watching the Grand Prix.
Karl.
Bought a second hand set of rear discs off the latest RS4 model. These are the same size as the discs I changed recently however they are lighter, cross drilled and will perform better on the track.
I certainly wouldn't buy a pair of these new as the cheapest I have seem them is £450 a pair. I paid £70 with the postage . New these are 22mm thick and the minimum thickness is 20mm, these measure at 21.3mm thick so only 35% worn.
Cleaned the loose rust and scabs off the disc as well as polishing the aluminium centre a bit.
Weighed the new and old discs and the ones I fitted recently weigh in at 7.7Kg each, the RS4 items weigh 5.9kg each so a saving of nearly 2Kg each side. This is reduced unsprung weight and also a reduction in the weight of the rotating parts as well as improved brakes.
Car needs a bit of a wash as it hasn't been done for a while. Maybe this weekend if I have time after picking up all the leaves in the garden and watching the Grand Prix.
Karl.
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Nice looking weavy discs ! Did you get the chance to fit the new gtb hybrid to the car ? I too bought a gt23 AMG from Skillaturbo and still not decided if to use s 65mm 6+6 blade compressor or 69mm 11 blade GTX style compressor wheel... I do not mind a bit of lag especially as i am using mainly the car on motorways so for me fast accelerations midrange and good top end is what i am after ! I am trying to upgrade a gtb2260vklr as well but i do not know yet what turbine that will fit a ball bearing cartridge is available which will fit the VNT mechanism of the gtb2260vklr...
Turbo with the new shaft in is sitting in the dining room ATM. Depending on the weather it may be going on the car on Monday. I have had it on and off the car so many times now I can do it pretty quickly. Hopefully this is the last time it will be going on 
.
I would be surprised if there was very much difference between a 65mm and 69mm wheel with a 2.5 TDI engine. The 65mm wheel will move enough air and in daily use I think will be the better drive. If you want a dyno queen then the 69mm wheel may be the way to go.
.I would be surprised if there was very much difference between a 65mm and 69mm wheel with a 2.5 TDI engine. The 65mm wheel will move enough air and in daily use I think will be the better drive. If you want a dyno queen then the 69mm wheel may be the way to go.
Surely that turbo has grown if you've been feeding it for the last 7 months ?
I can't see that happening with the rain and 50 mph winds , I've been waiting for this as long as Karl has , lol .
Hi Karl good move on the brakes.
Looking forward to the turbo going on - should produce healthy results.
Cheers
Bobby
Looking forward to the turbo going on - should produce healthy results.
Cheers
Bobby
Eagerly waiting for results too ! Hope it runs as well as the old turbo bar the smoke !
Amazing read, Karl. I got here after looking for info on a Mishimoto FMIC and ended up reading all your progress in a couple of hours. This thread is a A4 3.0tdi bible. Enjoy your family and car!
This thread has been a source of inspiration for sure. Real nice setup you have going there, since Rick was highly recommended by you I let him do my remap after the DPF was gone. Yet to do the muffler modification tho.
Not many updates on here for a while. Finally got the Hybrid turbo fully sorted and hopefully car will be remapped shortly.
Just been tweaking with VCDS after I read a post on here about enabling extra brake lights. seems a little daft only having 1 brake light bulb each side when you can have 3 On the Avant If you add 3 to the coding of the 4 channels 195,196,203,204 you enable the bulbs to work as brake lights as well. If you add 6 then they will flash with the indicators as they do in North America.
Not too sure about the saloon coding. Channel 195, 196 should be the same add 3. I think the coding shown below for 203, 204 for the saloon will make the lights flash with the indicators as well as act as brake lights.
Here's a summary of the coding to enable the middle and inner bulbs as brake for the B8 halogen:
Module 46 - Adaptation
Password: 16017
Sedan (Limo):
Channel 195: Left middle - 10753 -> 10759 (add 3)
Channel 196: Right middle - 10785 -> 10791 (add 3)
Channel 203: Left inner (on Limo also Fog) - 8778 -> 8775 (subtract 3)
Channel 204: Right inner (on Limo also Fog) - 8810 -> 8807 (subtract 3)
Avant:
Channel 195: Left middle - 14849 -> 14855 (add 3)
Channel 196: Right middle - 14881 -> 14887 (add 3)
Channel 203: Left inner (on Limo also Fog) - 14849 -> 14855 (add 3)
Channel 204: Right inner (on Limo also Fog) - 14881 -> 14887 (add 3)
Bulb out warnings:
Channel 181: 65535 -> 0 (rear halogen to LED conversion)
Channel 191: 65295 -> 0 (disable all rear bulb out warnings)
Channel 192: 3 -> 2 (disable licence plate bulb out warning)
Just enabled the extra brake lights on the left in this picture.
Just been tweaking with VCDS after I read a post on here about enabling extra brake lights. seems a little daft only having 1 brake light bulb each side when you can have 3
On the Avant If you add 3 to the coding of the 4 channels 195,196,203,204 you enable the bulbs to work as brake lights as well. If you add 6 then they will flash with the indicators as they do in North America.Not too sure about the saloon coding. Channel 195, 196 should be the same add 3. I think the coding shown below for 203, 204 for the saloon will make the lights flash with the indicators as well as act as brake lights.
Here's a summary of the coding to enable the middle and inner bulbs as brake for the B8 halogen:
Module 46 - Adaptation
Password: 16017
Sedan (Limo):
Channel 195: Left middle - 10753 -> 10759 (add 3)
Channel 196: Right middle - 10785 -> 10791 (add 3)
Channel 203: Left inner (on Limo also Fog) - 8778 -> 8775 (subtract 3)
Channel 204: Right inner (on Limo also Fog) - 8810 -> 8807 (subtract 3)
Avant:
Channel 195: Left middle - 14849 -> 14855 (add 3)
Channel 196: Right middle - 14881 -> 14887 (add 3)
Channel 203: Left inner (on Limo also Fog) - 14849 -> 14855 (add 3)
Channel 204: Right inner (on Limo also Fog) - 14881 -> 14887 (add 3)
Bulb out warnings:
Channel 181: 65535 -> 0 (rear halogen to LED conversion)
Channel 191: 65295 -> 0 (disable all rear bulb out warnings)
Channel 192: 3 -> 2 (disable licence plate bulb out warning)
Just enabled the extra brake lights on the left in this picture.
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Not many updates on here for a while. Finally got the Hybrid turbo fully sorted and hopefully car will be remapped shortly.
Just been tweaking with VCDS after I read a post on here about enabling extra brake lights. seems a little daft only having 1 brake light bulb each side when you can have 3
Not too sure about the saloon coding. Channel 195, 196 should be the same add 3. I think the coding shown below for 203, 204 for the saloon will make the lights flash with the indicators as well as act as brake lights.
Here's a summary of the coding to enable the middle and inner bulbs as brake for the B8 halogen:
Module 46 - Adaptation
Password: 16017
Sedan (Limo):
Channel 195: Left middle - 10753 -> 10759 (add 3)
Channel 196: Right middle - 10785 -> 10791 (add 3)
Channel 203: Left inner (on Limo also Fog) - 8778 -> 8775 (subtract 3)
Channel 204: Right inner (on Limo also Fog) - 8810 -> 8807 (subtract 3)
Avant:
Channel 195: Left middle - 14849 -> 14855 (add 3)
Channel 196: Right middle - 14881 -> 14887 (add 3)
Channel 203: Left inner (on Limo also Fog) - 14849 -> 14855 (add 3)
Channel 204: Right inner (on Limo also Fog) - 14881 -> 14887 (add 3)
Bulb out warnings:
Channel 181: 65535 -> 0 (rear halogen to LED conversion)
Channel 191: 65295 -> 0 (disable all rear bulb out warnings)
Channel 192: 3 -> 2 (disable licence plate bulb out warning)
Just enabled the extra brake lights on the left in this picture.
Much better pic than mine !
Small mod in anticipation of the hybrid and a remap. Looking around at several of the more powerful 3.0 TDI cars with the hybrids they have fitted larger intake pipes.
The standard one I think is good for 240bhp but with potentially 50% more power that will probably be having an effect.
The intake pipe is 78mm stainless, and instead of tapering down to 57mm and then feeding into the silencer at the front of the turbo where the crankcase breather is. I have used a 45 degree silicon reducer to go from 78mm to 57mm this makes the transition from the large pipe a lot more gradual and I can now hear a bit of induction roar as well.
The original intake silencer fitted to the car
How it looks with the reducer on the end of the pipe
The stainless pipe with the crankcase vent pipe welded on
How it looks fitted
Decided to paint it black and try and make it look as OE as possible
Karl.
Looks great! Where did you get the pipes and reduces from as I would like to do a similar thing
thanks
Re - the DRLS blogged earlier up there.
Around the same time as you were experimenting.I did the same and the crisp clean white light transforms the look of the lamps.
So then I searched around for indicator lamps. Despite one nice chinese chap fitting PH24W bases to a set of his 80w (16 x 5w) amber cree LEDs, I dont think that they appeared quite as bright as the original incandescent bulbs. However without having a mixed pair fitted (for side-by-side comparison) you wouldnt really tell. Mine came via Aliexpress:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free...-80w-High-Power-Cree-Vehicles/2045524647.html
Around the same time as you were experimenting.I did the same and the crisp clean white light transforms the look of the lamps.
So then I searched around for indicator lamps. Despite one nice chinese chap fitting PH24W bases to a set of his 80w (16 x 5w) amber cree LEDs, I dont think that they appeared quite as bright as the original incandescent bulbs. However without having a mixed pair fitted (for side-by-side comparison) you wouldnt really tell. Mine came via Aliexpress:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free...-80w-High-Power-Cree-Vehicles/2045524647.html
If it helps, it seems that despite a significant reduction in supply current (around 2/3 less in my case) the monitoring system has not given a warning. Nor did it warn when I replaced the indicators with LEDs too.
Not done much with the car lately, too cold. Although that is changing over the next few weeks as got quite a few things to do.
Whilst surfing I noticed Powerflex now do some parts for the B8 A4 Audi. They do a gearbox transmission mount to limit the movement in the existing bush.
http://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Transmission+Mount+Insert+/11835.html
The Transmission mount is a 2 part affair with a large rubber bush taking most of the weight and load and a smaller bush that acts to limit the movement of the main bush. This is the one that is improved.
You can get an aluminum item from 034 Motorsport but that is roughly 3 times the price of the powerflex option and it seems to do the same. I had already manufactured my own ghetto part but I figured I would try a proper item for £26.
The powerflex bush comes in 2 parts and also in two flavours, yellow and black. Yellow is normal road and Black is made of a much more resilient material so is designated Race use only.
You can just fit the one part and then it's just 2 bolts to undo and a 5 minute job after the car has been jacked up.
I decided to fit both parts and see what that was like.
The yellow stuff is fairly bendy and has some give in it .
To fit the second part that locates between mount and the bush you need to remove the gearbox support cross member. Easy enough to do just 4 multi spline bolts, however you need to support the weight of the gearbox. Audi have thoughtfully supplied a large cross brace under the box where a strategic piece of wood can be located.
The spacer basically locks the joint up so there is very little movement.
You can see how the part fills in the voids in the bush.
And the results. Well there was no movement at all in the gearstick. Unfortunately there was a good amount of vibration coming into the car when it was idling. On the move no problem at all but at idle it felt a bit like one of those weight loss machines that vibrate . Not good at all.
So removed the spacer part and just left the insert.
This was a lot better, still no movement on the gearstick and just a very slight increase in the cabin vibration at idle, hardly noticeable unless you were looking for it. On a petrol you probably wouldn't notice any difference at all.
The best thing is that it's a 5 minute mod with only 2 bolts to undo just using the insert part and it's reasonably cheap.
Whilst surfing I noticed Powerflex now do some parts for the B8 A4 Audi. They do a gearbox transmission mount to limit the movement in the existing bush.
http://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Transmission+Mount+Insert+/11835.html
The Transmission mount is a 2 part affair with a large rubber bush taking most of the weight and load and a smaller bush that acts to limit the movement of the main bush. This is the one that is improved.
You can get an aluminum item from 034 Motorsport but that is roughly 3 times the price of the powerflex option and it seems to do the same. I had already manufactured my own ghetto part but I figured I would try a proper item for £26.
The powerflex bush comes in 2 parts and also in two flavours, yellow and black. Yellow is normal road and Black is made of a much more resilient material so is designated Race use only.
You can just fit the one part and then it's just 2 bolts to undo and a 5 minute job after the car has been jacked up.
I decided to fit both parts and see what that was like.
The yellow stuff is fairly bendy and has some give in it .
To fit the second part that locates between mount and the bush you need to remove the gearbox support cross member. Easy enough to do just 4 multi spline bolts, however you need to support the weight of the gearbox. Audi have thoughtfully supplied a large cross brace under the box where a strategic piece of wood can be located.
The spacer basically locks the joint up so there is very little movement.
You can see how the part fills in the voids in the bush.
And the results. Well there was no movement at all in the gearstick. Unfortunately there was a good amount of vibration coming into the car when it was idling. On the move no problem at all but at idle it felt a bit like one of those weight loss machines that vibrate . Not good at all.
So removed the spacer part and just left the insert.
This was a lot better, still no movement on the gearstick and just a very slight increase in the cabin vibration at idle, hardly noticeable unless you were looking for it. On a petrol you probably wouldn't notice any difference at all.
The best thing is that it's a 5 minute mod with only 2 bolts to undo just using the insert part and it's reasonably cheap.
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kanecullen89
Registered User
I've been looking at getting an 034 mount for a while now, but for the price I will definitely be getting one of these power flex items! Cheers for linking this!
I will be changing the rear diff oil in the summer so will do this while I'm under
Yes for £26 they do the same as the 034 mount. The 034 mount is £64 from Awesome GTI .
I ordered mine from Fleabay. I wouldn't bother fitting the flat spacer part if you have a diesel, just undo the 2 bolts remove the channel section insert the bush and reassemble.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201531709059?
I ordered mine from Fleabay. I wouldn't bother fitting the flat spacer part if you have a diesel, just undo the 2 bolts remove the channel section insert the bush and reassemble.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201531709059?
kanecullen89
Registered User
I know EBC redstuff are not suitable for a trackday. They are good on the road but I am making some mods to the braking system, calipers, discs, cooling etc and will hopefully be doing a few track days but will replace the redstuff pads with something like DS3000 or something from the Pagid RS range.
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DS3000 very bad for everyday car cold doesn't brake at all.
I had that on may Fiat and replace them with Carbotech Performance Brakes the only negative side with this brake pads is price all other things are positive.
First time you press the brake with DS3000 nothing happens for couple meters
Simple example if you are going from traffic to traffic light and someone hits the brake in front well you will hit the car in front this is how bad this brakes where cold
I had that on may Fiat and replace them with Carbotech Performance Brakes the only negative side with this brake pads is price all other things are positive.
First time you press the brake with DS3000 nothing happens for couple meters
Simple example if you are going from traffic to traffic light and someone hits the brake in front well you will hit the car in front this is how bad this brakes where cold
I wouldn't use DS3000 as an everyday pad. As I said above I would change the redstuff pads for something like DS3000 or Carbotech XP10, Pagid RS19/29 etc and change back to redstuff as an every day pad.
+1, two different environments , track pads for track , street for street , that's why these dual use pads are so so .
To make something work in an extreme area you compromise it in another , like big hp turbos and their lag , coilovers around town etc , etc .
To make something work in an extreme area you compromise it in another , like big hp turbos and their lag , coilovers around town etc , etc .
Going for a bit of a brake upgrade in the car as hopefully it will be remapped in the next few weeks with the hybrid on. I want to do a few track day this year but don't want to go too mad with big brakes that mean big wheels. Part of the problem with the S4 brakes on the car at the moment is they are a sliding caliper brake so just one piston and the pad stops very close to the disc slightly dragging which doesn't help.
All performance cars usually have multi pot brakes as these have many advantages.
Thus looking around I saw that several people have fitted Audi Q5 brakes to their A4's and A5's . These are a 4 pot Brembo brake caliper that uses a 345mm * 30mm disc the same size as the S4.Here's a picture of a test fit of the calipers with the standard 17 inch wheels I use with winter tyres.
A few mm clearance but they do fit. I think they need something like a 3mm spacer just to give a little more clearance on the spokes
The pads in the caliper are the same size as used in the Subaru STI and EVO 2008-2015 so the choice of pad materials is immense, almost every compound from every manufacturer is available to fit these.
Bought a set of Redstuff for normal road use, yet to decide what to use for the track.
The big problem with the standard set up even if I fitted RS4 brakes is the lack of cooling, there really must be very little air getting to the brakes . So to address this issue and give them a fighting chance again after doing some surfing found some solutions to this I hope.
Porsche Macan Turbo brake ducts.
This is what the look like on the Macan, which is based on the Q5 which is based on the same platform as the A4/ A5. The Macan has 20-21 inch wheels and big brakes, you can see the brake ducts clip onto the steering rack arms by the track rod end. On the A4 they need a little shortening on the one end by about 1cm as otherwise they foul the ARB but apart from that they fit fine.
Notice the almost non existent brake backing plate, this is standard so I will be chopping the thin bit of ally thats on the A4 to match this. It just basically provides screening from direct radiated heat for the ABS sensor and track rod end. But allows a lot of air flow to the centre of disc and the face.
Cheap way of getting Porche bits on the car too as 2 ducts and 2 clips were £14 from my local Porsche dealer. Had a mooch at the cars as well whilst I was there, very nice .
The part numbers for the Macan scoops are
95B.615.447.B Air baffle plate
95B.615.448.B Air baffle plate
95B.699.011.B Clamp
The scoops are handed hence the two different part numbers, the clamp is the same part number for each side.
Now just need to get some air in the wheel well. Bought some Audi TTRS wheel well air vents. I have fitted one side nearly just needs some trimming and it looks quite good, almost OE.
It has a NACA duct that feeds air through a vent like the RS4 / RS5 but also has quite a large wheel well grating that allows air in. I intend to buy some cheap fog light covers from Fleabay and mod them so this will allow a lot of air to find it's way to the wheel well on a track day.This is a picture from this thread where I saw this done.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...is-Challenge-Spec-ongoing-build-thread/page11
He used Phaeton back plates and scoops. A more expensive solution.
You could use any 345 * 30 mm disc but decided to go for the ECS 2 part disc. Expensive but hopefully they will do the job. These have directional vanes which RS4/5 brakes don't have . Not too many drilled holes. As long as they don't get too hot cracks shouldn't be an issue.
http://www.awesomegti.com/brand/ecs-tuning/ecs-front-2-piece-brake-discs-audi-s5-b8
The weight saving with the discs and much lighter caliper is quite surprising, The discs are 7.5 Lb lighter and the caliper is about half the weight as it's alumimium as opposed to the predominantly cast iron standard item. this all adds up to a much reduced unsprung weight.
I painted my calipers with smooth black hammerite with some white Brembo stickers.
The Q5 uses the TRW 345mm caliper in some models and the Brembo in more potent versions. They use the same master cylinder in both and the same as the A4, so another reason for sticking to this kind of solution. An RS4 uses a different Master cylinder probably to cope with 8 pots on a caliper.
All performance cars usually have multi pot brakes as these have many advantages.
Thus looking around I saw that several people have fitted Audi Q5 brakes to their A4's and A5's . These are a 4 pot Brembo brake caliper that uses a 345mm * 30mm disc the same size as the S4.Here's a picture of a test fit of the calipers with the standard 17 inch wheels I use with winter tyres.
A few mm clearance but they do fit. I think they need something like a 3mm spacer just to give a little more clearance on the spokes
The pads in the caliper are the same size as used in the Subaru STI and EVO 2008-2015 so the choice of pad materials is immense, almost every compound from every manufacturer is available to fit these.
Bought a set of Redstuff for normal road use, yet to decide what to use for the track.
The big problem with the standard set up even if I fitted RS4 brakes is the lack of cooling, there really must be very little air getting to the brakes . So to address this issue and give them a fighting chance again after doing some surfing found some solutions to this I hope.
Porsche Macan Turbo brake ducts.
This is what the look like on the Macan, which is based on the Q5 which is based on the same platform as the A4/ A5. The Macan has 20-21 inch wheels and big brakes, you can see the brake ducts clip onto the steering rack arms by the track rod end. On the A4 they need a little shortening on the one end by about 1cm as otherwise they foul the ARB but apart from that they fit fine.
Notice the almost non existent brake backing plate, this is standard so I will be chopping the thin bit of ally thats on the A4 to match this. It just basically provides screening from direct radiated heat for the ABS sensor and track rod end. But allows a lot of air flow to the centre of disc and the face.
Cheap way of getting Porche bits on the car too as 2 ducts and 2 clips were £14 from my local Porsche dealer. Had a mooch at the cars as well whilst I was there, very nice
.The part numbers for the Macan scoops are
95B.615.447.B Air baffle plate
95B.615.448.B Air baffle plate
95B.699.011.B Clamp
The scoops are handed hence the two different part numbers, the clamp is the same part number for each side.
Now just need to get some air in the wheel well. Bought some Audi TTRS wheel well air vents. I have fitted one side nearly just needs some trimming and it looks quite good, almost OE.
It has a NACA duct that feeds air through a vent like the RS4 / RS5 but also has quite a large wheel well grating that allows air in. I intend to buy some cheap fog light covers from Fleabay and mod them so this will allow a lot of air to find it's way to the wheel well on a track day.This is a picture from this thread where I saw this done.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...is-Challenge-Spec-ongoing-build-thread/page11
He used Phaeton back plates and scoops. A more expensive solution.
You could use any 345 * 30 mm disc but decided to go for the ECS 2 part disc. Expensive but hopefully they will do the job. These have directional vanes which RS4/5 brakes don't have . Not too many drilled holes. As long as they don't get too hot cracks shouldn't be an issue.
http://www.awesomegti.com/brand/ecs-tuning/ecs-front-2-piece-brake-discs-audi-s5-b8
The weight saving with the discs and much lighter caliper is quite surprising, The discs are 7.5 Lb lighter and the caliper is about half the weight as it's alumimium as opposed to the predominantly cast iron standard item. this all adds up to a much reduced unsprung weight.
I painted my calipers with smooth black hammerite with some white Brembo stickers.
The Q5 uses the TRW 345mm caliper in some models and the Brembo in more potent versions. They use the same master cylinder in both and the same as the A4, so another reason for sticking to this kind of solution. An RS4 uses a different Master cylinder probably to cope with 8 pots on a caliper.
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Red is bad compared to yellow
Much better compound
They brake same when cold but warm they are much better.
You can use them every day and on track day.
With 2 sets of pads you have this adaptation period every time you put them
Get yellow pads and mtec or some other performance rotors
You can't compare original rotors with performance ones
They have much beeter cooling
I'm using ceramic hi temp silicon on pistons of callipers to reduce drag.
Just as an example when breakes are really warm after abusing them you park the car and can't push it in neutral
With use of this on pistons you can push it no problem so it makes big diference
Much better compound
They brake same when cold but warm they are much better.
You can use them every day and on track day.
With 2 sets of pads you have this adaptation period every time you put them
Get yellow pads and mtec or some other performance rotors
You can't compare original rotors with performance ones
They have much beeter cooling
I'm using ceramic hi temp silicon on pistons of callipers to reduce drag.
Just as an example when breakes are really warm after abusing them you park the car and can't push it in neutral
With use of this on pistons you can push it no problem so it makes big diference
I have used yellowstuff before and although better than redstuff they won't be good enough on the track. They seem to be OK in lighter cars but heavier barges, this is around 1800Kg, I don't think they work so well. How heavy is your Fiat ? .Yellowstuff also makes loads of dust where as Redstuff is great.
I know it's a pain swapping pads but I really don't think you can get a good track pad that is also really good on the road. There is just too much of a difference in what they need to do.
These are the discs I will be using. I have looked at other options and either they are a lot more expensive or basically just souped up standard rotors.
I know it's a pain swapping pads but I really don't think you can get a good track pad that is also really good on the road. There is just too much of a difference in what they need to do.
These are the discs I will be using. I have looked at other options and either they are a lot more expensive or basically just souped up standard rotors.
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Fiat is around 1400kg
The discipline I drive is Formula driver combination of obstacle and race track
To reduce speed obtacle are in longer straights
Most of time I'm braking with throttle to reduce lag especially through s corners to get better control and response
I have same brakes on my A4b8
Yes they worn out faster and make lot of dust but they can't be in same sentence with red stuff.
My Fiat had 284x22 discs and yellow stuff
I have upgraded them with 310mm and now 330mm
I went to bigger size just because I got it cheap
And its easier to control breakes with 4 piston callipers
On top of all new setup is lighter than old
The discipline I drive is Formula driver combination of obstacle and race track
To reduce speed obtacle are in longer straights
Most of time I'm braking with throttle to reduce lag especially through s corners to get better control and response
I have same brakes on my A4b8
Yes they worn out faster and make lot of dust but they can't be in same sentence with red stuff.
My Fiat had 284x22 discs and yellow stuff
I have upgraded them with 310mm and now 330mm
I went to bigger size just because I got it cheap
And its easier to control breakes with 4 piston callipers
On top of all new setup is lighter than old
You can keep your Yellowstuff , Redstuff will do everything out on the road you want it to without having to wash your wheels frequently of horrendous dust .
I changed from Yellow to Red in less than 1000 miles cause of it .
And thats with 4 pots all around and Brembo grooved 345 mm front and Brembo grooved 320 mm rear.
Like Karl said there's too much of a difference between road and track .
Street pads for street , dedicated track for track.
I changed from Yellow to Red in less than 1000 miles cause of it .
And thats with 4 pots all around and Brembo grooved 345 mm front and Brembo grooved 320 mm rear.
Like Karl said there's too much of a difference between road and track .
Street pads for street , dedicated track for track.
love this thread well done karl. When you get the car mapped with hybrid turbo now on what bhp and torque are you hoping for? is rick doing the map?
Rick is doing the map, hoping for around the 370bhp mark without WMI and maybe 380 plus with it. As for torque the limitation of the clutch on the manual gearbox seems to be about 800Nm. Not sure it would take that for long so 750Nm is probably the max I am looking for. It's currently around 720Nm. There is no uprated clutch that I have seen this is the standard LUK clutch.
Hoping to get a similar result to this regards power and torque. As I will have similar hardware spec.
Hoping to get a similar result to this regards power and torque. As I will have similar hardware spec.
There aren't any uprated injectors for these engines. Some models of injector flow a little bit more but only a few %. Bobby changed his pump from a CP4 to a CP3 as the CP4 is good for pressure but doesn't have the flow. He is running his pump at 2200 bar to get enough fuel injected. My car has a CP1H pump which does have good flow and hopefully if it can keep the pressure up at 1800 bar it should make around 370 ish bhp.
