Karls 3.0 TDI build thread

All credit to you Karl. I've just read your build thread and what a fantastic read it was with some very useful mods. You've given me some very useful ideas and when finances allow i will be going abit crazy lol.
Im soon to be booked in with Rick for DPF and remap as he's literally 3min drive from where im working but was hoping to get my car in better shape before the work is carried out.
I noticed you decided to keep stay with 17" alloys, atm im still on standard alloys but hoping to upgrade in the near future. My cars not S Line but the sport variant comes with standard lower suspension similar to S Line but although the car seems low enough the gap between the tyre sits to far in for me. im thinking of putting 15mm spacers on front and 20mm on the back to get a better look/stance but not sure how this would look on 17"??
 
Had a good trip out at the VAG day at Castle Combe on Saturday. Nice to meet Gazwould and had a word with Badger Bill who was there sorting out his very fast car. Did the one session out on the track with the Club GTI guys, having never been round Castle Combe and being down here on Holiday I wasn't ever going to be pushing it but had some fun for 4-5 laps before the brakes developed a real bad judder.
The rear discs were blue all over , Not sure if the bog standard pads on the rear were the problem or if the red stuffs on the front had given up, I suspect a bit of both. The rear discs and pads are due for replacement so they will be replaced with red stuff pads.

Managed a 1.26 lap according to Harrys lap timer and 120mph on the approach to Avon Rise. If I had some track tyres and better brakes with a bit more commitment I am sure it could be a few seconds faster.

The track photographer takes some good photos so bought a disc full.

VWAUDI150815%20602_zpsdcpyjmtd.jpg~original



VWAUDI150815%20590_zpsa9igduky.jpg~original


VWAUDI150815%20581_zpsaxwpgbnp.jpg~original


VWAUDI150815%20556_zpsnkraegpt.jpg~original


Karl
 
Last edited:
Thoroughly enjoyed reading your build thread Karl. I also have a B8 A4 3.0 TDI (also SE) and I'm sure I used your thread a while ago to guide me through the installation of white DRLs!

I'm at 332bhp/524lbft just now, considering going further. You briefly touched on the requirements to reach 400 peak bhp - I'm trying to find information on further tuning; could you elaborate? I thought the fuel system would need upgraded (either a more powerful high pressure pump or larger injectors).

Many thanks
Hoggy
 
Hello Hoggy,
There are plenty of modded high power 3.0 TDI;s on the RS5 A5 site
https://www.facebook.com/pages/A5-qp-RS5-TDi/296843307053421

If you look at the build and mods for these a big hybrid turbo something like a GT2571 with a big intercooler, 3 inch straight through exhaust , and water methanol injection.
Obviously you can't use the WMI all the time but this is needed to make the most amount of power.
There are no upgrade injectors that I know of, some of the injectors on the earlier cars apparently have slightly more flow. Most of the high power cars seem to have the CAPA engine which is fitted around 2008, this has a lower pressure but higher flow pump. Apparently the later cars with the CCWA engine have a higher pressure pump but lower flow capacity and slightly smaller injectors.
The CAPA engine uses a CP1H high pressure pump which has a low pressure pump built in to feed the high pressure pump. The CCWA uses a CP4 high pressure pump with a seperate electric pump to supply the high pressure pump.
It seems that with the CAPA engines they use a seperate electric pump to boost the pressure and flow to the high pressure pump to try and keep the rail pressure up when it's flat out.
This is something like a 5 bar pump.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hoggy
just spent some time reading this thread from start to finish. Have to say im very impressed. makes me even more eager to get my dream. A5 3.0TDI

Well Done
 
Hoggy - I'm doing some development work on the 3l TDI - are you making 335hp out of the stock 2260?

Karl
I'm yet to dyno my car but on stage 1 (ie stock hardware just tuning) my MAF is maxed out now after 3.5k with 1.9 bar in the midrange and 87mg/s of fuel. The rail pressure appears to keeping up so far which is nice. As you know I have a CCWA engine with a CP4S2 pump.

Cheers
Bobby
 
Hi Bobby,

The car is stock with the exception of a Darkside Developments DPF delete. It made 332.2bhp and 524.7lbft according to the dyno run. I personally know the owner of the business the car was calibrated at and to my knowledge they pushed it a bit further than they would with the average customer car. Obviously the dyno can on occasion be wrong; the only other indicator I can give is that it runs 13.4 sec quarters at our nearest venue (Crail raceway, **** surface and sketchy electronics).

I've had one or two rail pressure warnings that put the car into limp mode for 5-10 seconds over the year it's been running this power but generally even with a 174mph autobahn run (sustained full throttle for >5 mins) and 2 laps of the Nurburgring it has been reliable and solid.

I don't know specifics about the engine and I haven't logged it before; only recently (having helped a mate put a BHZ into a 8P A3 Quattro with a hybrid K04) have I started venturing more in depth into tuning. I'll log it at some point soon and post the results if they can be of any use.

Hoggy
 

Attachments

  • dyno.jpg
    dyno.jpg
    52 KB · Views: 627
Hi Bobby,
I have noticed the MAF on my car is maxed out around 3.6K as it only appears to be scaled to 250 g/s so the calculated air flow of mg/str is not correct from 3.6K onwards.
I think mine peaks around 1.85 bar and 85mg/str fuel so you sound like you are around the same point as me, drives a lot better than a standard car :) .
The 3.0 Bi TDI uses the same MAF sensor in a larger tube with a different calibration to measure the larger airflows.
A bigger intercooler is I think a must to reduce the turbo outlet tempertures, especially with the higher boost pressures from a hybrid and also the reduced boost pressure loss across the intercooler.
Hoggy your car seems comparable to mine as I run 13.3 quarters and mine is an estate so carries a bit more weight. When I ran mine on the dyno at MRC it had done several minutes and 3 previous runs before they managed to get a clean run. During this time I had seen higher readings around 325 bhp so I suspect mine is making around 335-340bhp with the water methanol.

Karl
 
Hi Hoggy - thanks for the information.

Hi Karl - yes the Bi turbo MAF can measure upto around 1100kg/h could be a nice upgrade for a hybrid 2260.
I wonder if the CCWA has a better intercooler as stock? My air charge is around 40deg on WOT. Having said that I will be replacing it in the future. I'll get the part number when I take it off.

If you look at the 2260 map and do some calculations we are already out of air :)

Cheers
Bobby
 
  • Like
Reactions: V6 Quatt
A bit of an update on the Castle Combe run I did earlier in the month.


I knew the issue with my car was going to be the brakes, with red stuff pads on the front and bog standard pads on the rear it was a matter of time before the brakes cried enough. That was around 5 laps of driving, including the warm up lap. I ended up with a very bad vibration through the brake pedal, The brakes still stopped the car fine but I just coasted for 2 laps to let things cool down and came back in.
There was only a few of us out in the session which suited me fine, less people to tun into me or me into them.

DSC_1276_zps9lxrwrve.jpg~original


Looking at the discs the fronts did get hot but not too bad,

DSC_1287_zps4lpn5zex.jpg~original


The rears are what was causing the brake issues I think, the discs were completely blue like they had been anodised.

DSC_1288_zpsxrbbnoac.jpg~original


I think that the vibration was due to pad pick up on the rears, the blue color on the disc is pad material transferred from the rear pads. These are due for replacement shortly and will be using red stuff pads with new discs.
The brakes worked fine when everything had cooled down and it took about 30-40 miles of driving to clean up the discs.

I downloaded an app for my phone Harry Lap Timer and invested in a bluetooth GPS dongle to get better speed and position updates. Pity I didn't spend a bit more on the screen mount for the phone, It seemed fine on the short test run I did but on a track it's a bit wobbly.
click on the picture to play the video.



Karl.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Lannerz27, bonifacy87, bobby singh and 1 other person
Been out on the track again last weekend with some of the Club GTI guys at Curbrough. Great little track just up the road from me. Some very quick seriously modded MK1 , MK2 golfs and Prawns quick A3.

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.p...-details-emailed!!!Rank-order-displayed/page6

This time an MTM tuned Audi TTRS turned up, standard cars are quick enough but with 400bhp plus this would be a quick road car.

DSC_1332_zpszbndpr6c.jpg~original


After the morning session I was just 0.1s slower than the Audi, however in the afternoon sessions he found some more time and I ended up just over 0.5s slower, I was fairly happy with that. Just 1.25s slower than Prawn in his A3.Overall positions at the end of the day.

Ranking%20for%20the%20day._zpsdeyy29ft.jpg~original


One of the guys turned up with a set of race scales so decided to get the car weighed properly. With me in the car and 1/8 tank of fuel it weighed in at 1828Kg so around 1750 Kg for the car alone.
The fastest guys in the MK1 , MK2 Golfs were weighing at less than 1000Kg.

Got Harrys Lap timer working after some tweaking to capture some videos.



Gurdips red MK1 GTI was the fastest car on the day.Really well built and he is a great driver.



Karl.
 
Last edited:
Nice going Karl
Gurdip Singh is a mate from the local area. His MK1 is a serious weapon, it was crazy even before he fitted a turbo.
The A4 has a lot of weight but you done well.
 
One of the guys turned up with a set of race scales so decided to get the car weighed properly. With me in the car and 1/8 tank of fuel it weighed in at 1828Kg so around 1750 Kg for the car alone.

Yep, I can concur on the car weight.
At my last track day, I put the car onto the scales and it came in at 1860kg with me and about the same amount of fuel. Weight of the car is around 1780kg. Mine was tiptronic though, so would have thought the weight difference would be a bit more. Doesn't take away from the fact that they are heavy cars.
 
I remove the back seats from my car when taking it to the track or 1/4 mile. These weigh about 40Kg as there is quite an amount of steel plate in the back of the seats to keep the stuff in the boot contained in the event of an accident.
Only takes 15 minutes to do.
The bottom part of the seat is held in with the plastic mouldings for the ISO seatbelt mountings. These just clip out and the bottom part of the seat can be removed.undo the 17mm bolt that secures the one seatbelt mount. Undo the small torx bolt that secures the centre mounting point and you can then remove the two halves of the back seat.
I don't think there's that much more in the weight of the auto box as the manual is also a big lump of metal.
 
Car was in need of repair today and unfortunately I had to take it to a Garage :frown: .
For the last 6 weeks or so I have been driving around with an increasingly noisy OSF wheel bearing. I managed to run through a pretty big pot hole about a week before it started humming. It was quite a bang so when I heard what was at the time a faint hum around a week later I figured that the bearing may have taken a hit.
Unfortunately they are a big old thing that is pressed into the hub and really needs a hydraulic press to get them apart. And press the new bearing on.
Heres a video I took the other week you can hear the drone of the bearing,



I supplied the new bearing as it was cheaper than the cost of the part they were going to use, I used Carpartsforless they have an SNR bearing for £70.74 but I had a Mann pollen filter as well to get it over £75 to get £10 discount so ended up paying £67 for a bearing and pollen filter.
You can get cheaper parts from around £30 but they aren't as good and are a false economy if you plan on keeping the car.
The bearing that turned up actually turned out to be an SKF part instead of SNR which I was happy with.
The original bearing that had failed on the car was an SNR item.

I took the car to Midland VW , I have used them before with the Passat and they are Very good,I would recommend them to anybody looking for VAG specialist. The fact that they are about 3 miles down the road from me helps as well.

DSC_1348_zpsrtotnpa8.jpg~original


DSC_1349_zpsuo9jwefo.jpg~original
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 8PARSY
Hi Karl,

So I followed your instructions to change the DRLs to LED and all was going so well, got the passenger side done, looks amazing, but the headlight harness clip is broken on the driver's side and I cannot get it off... I guess i will finish this project in the am. :weary:
 
Hi Karl, did you manage to run the hybrid gtb2260vk that Adam built for you ? If yes, how does it go ? Any dino plot ? I am thinking of making a hybrid of my own but with a slightly larger compressor 71mm based on a gtb2260 of the latest 311 Bhp BMW...I will use the BMW hot side/CHRA and just machine and weld the compressor housing to fit onto a v6 tdi. Space is limited but i need to give it a try before venturing to a bigger gt35 turbocharger...
 
Update: got up this morning (with more light) completed it in 45 mins. Thanks for the great instructions!

I'll post a pic later
 
Last edited:
Glad you got there in the end.The LED's look so much better than the standard fit glow worm bulbs.
 
What was the SKF number on the wheel bearing please? Handy to know.

When I did mine I bought the complete bearing and carrier assembly from Audi for about £110! I should have kept the old carrier so I could press in the next bearing.
 
The bearings come complete with the carrier. It's unfortunate that nobody except a Chinese company do a complete assembly with the bearing carrier and hub pre assembled. They seem to do this for earlier cars but not the B8.
The SKF part number for the bearing / carrier combined is VKBA6649 . The Audi part was possibly an SNR bearing as that was what was on my car.
 
Here's a picture of my car with the 18 SMD LEDS (p13w), the lights aren't as bright as I expected, but cool for now.
IMG 8970
 
I don't think you have fitted the same bulbs as I did. The 18 SMD bulbs use 5050 LEDS which are about 20 lumens each so 20 * 18 = 360 lumens light output. The 50W lights I used have 10 CREE high output LED's which produce around 1600 lumens so around 4 times as bright.
They are very bright in the day.
 
Hi,
just about to fit some s5 brakes on my own a4 in the next week. Found your post after a quick search around. Just wondering what you meant by using the laptop to change yours? Do you need vcds for the handbrake?



"New disc fitted, First time I have ever used a laptop to change brakes."

Hope you can help
 
Yes ideally you need VCDS to retract the handbrake and then reset it. You can do it without but it's a lot more fiddly.
Do a Google search, it's possible to retract the motor using a small battery and some croc clips but you run a risk of damaging the motor and you will probably get some errors when using the handbrake for the first time.

Karl.
 
Thanks for the reply fella. If this is the case then I think I might just get the rears fitted at a garage.
 
Yes ideally you need VCDS to retract the handbrake and then reset it. You can do it without but it's a lot more fiddly.
Do a Google search, it's possible to retract the motor using a small battery and some croc clips but you run a risk of damaging the motor and you will probably get some errors when using the handbrake for the first time.

Karl.
Just had a good look over the rear brakes and I reckon the calipers are actually the same to what's already fitted. it's just the carrier, pads and disc that are bigger. So in theory I shouldn't have to disconnect anything on the rears.

Thanks, good to know for future
 
You will still struggle as the s4/s5 rear brakes are vented (so thicker) therefore you will have to push the piston back.
 
Last edited:
So releasing the handbrake with the switch, and winding back with a piston winding tool won't work? These electronic handbrakes really are just a novelty lol
 
It's a shame you don't want to follow his wise knowledge and plan to slam it by 70 mm and ruin the drive .
 
Each to their own Gaz, I wouldn't tell anybody what they should or shouldn't do with their car. Mine has to be practical, I know a car that was lowered 70mm would not get up Heath Hayes high street. But then Phil may not need to get down there :) . We do have quite a lot of places with decent size speed bumps around the Cannock area though.
Big wheels and slammed is a fashion thing. I remember when I was 20 people were putting larger wheels on the back of cars and jacking the suspension up. I am quite happy for mine to look standard and boring :) .
 
  • Like
Reactions: philbell
It's definitely an age thing :smilet digitalpoint:

Although at 19 I didn't lower my Mk1 1.8 Golf GTI .

I didn't lower until I bought something with a ridiculous arch gap .

Lowered an RS Turbo just by 20 mm to improve its boat like tendencies.

The S14 has coilovers not cheap and a certain car park broad speed hump would clear the chassis rails by just 5 mm when it was on 16's .

Why do the young feel it's acceptable to risk damaging the underside of a vehicle ?

I will tell young people cause they need telling
asskicking.gif
lol .
 
  • Like
Reactions: bobby singh
Changed out the rear brake discs and pads over the weekend.
I think the run around Castle Combe finished them off, they were standard Ferodo pads and didn't seem to cope too well with track work.
So decided to upgrade to Red stuff the same as I have on the front. The discs were a reasonable price only £59 the pair for Mintex red box discs MDC2004, they are quite big 330 X 22mm vented, from Flea-bay.The originals were down to 20mm which is the minimum thickness.
Painted the centre part of the disc with some black hammerite as this goes rusty quite quickly.
The pads were around £75 EBC part number DP31988C so all in just under £135.
Took the aluminium brake shields off and gave them a coat of silver Hammerite whilst I was there.

DSC_1381_zpsnkcm3wns.jpg~original


DSC_1383_zpsw4lr7rz9.jpg~original


karl.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: tolse7 and bonifacy87
Karl, any tips for getting some nice exhaust sounds after I have the dpf and egr removed and remapped? Can this be achieved with the standard exhaust?
 
Essentially I have the standard exhaust on my car, It will sound better without the DPF, that really kills a lot of the noise on it's own. If you gut the rear silencers then it will make it a little louder and you get more of the V6 sound.
You can get a valve like I have from Ali Express for around £70 and then you have options, subtle rumble or hooligan mode :) .