Revo CAI – Not Impressed (Short Review)

DND

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I’ve been deliberating whether to get this installed or not over the last month or so, but decided to clear my mind, and to get it done. Not sure how long I will keep the s3 for, and I’ve already done the revo stage 1 to the car, so thought I may as well do this, get it over and done with, so I can at least say I’ve experienced a CAI system having never had one on any of my cars before.

Got it setup today, and to be fair, I’ve done less than 100 miles with it, but so far I’m not too impressed at all. Before having it fitted, the s3 would make a sort of hissing noise as you eased off the accelerator. This has now been replaced by the sucking noise the induction kit now makes as the turbo spools, and a slight flutter every now and then as I take my foot of the accelerator, quite cool, if a bit “Boy Racer” ish. The car also used to pull away swiftly prior to having it installed, especially after going to stage 1.

Im having issues in terms of performance though. To me, it feels like the car is actually pulling slower after having this fitted, and it definitely running worse. The first thing I noticed after hopping into the car after having the induction kit installed, is when I approached a speed bump, and the engine then cut out. This road had about 10 speed humps, and the car’s engine must have cut out on at least 3 of them, requiring me to start the car again each time. As you drive and then approach a speed hump, the revs obviously drop as you slow down, but what I was noticing after having this installed is that rather than the cars revs dropping to just under 1k revs (which is what mine always used to do before, and also used to idle at), it would go all the way down to roughly 250 revs (so just below 0) and then cut out, or go down to 250 revs, nearly stall, but then bounce back up again to 1k revs. Almost like it was struggling to breath, and taking a gasp of air to rescue the situation. This is a pretty dangerous situation, as it also happened multiple whilst driving normally. I’d approach a junction or roundabout, and obviously have to slow down, but as I done so, the car would then die. So if I needed to pull away quickly due to an oncoming vehicle, I’d be stuffed, as I’d basically have to start the car back up again before moving off.

I’ve also noticed the car doesn’t run as smoothly, as mentioned before. This is more noticeable in 1st gear, with lower revs/. When stuck in traffic before having it fitted, and pottering along, the car would be smooth. However, after having the kit installed, it sometimes jerks forward a bit whilst moving, again, as if it’s struggling to breathe.

Do these problems settle down after me clocking up more miles, or does this sound like an issue with the kit or its installation? It was installed professionally by a revo dealer, who also put it up to stage 1 a couple of months prior to today. I’ll clock up some more miles over the course of the weekend, but if it’s still like this come Monday, when they re-open again, I’m thinking of having them putting the air system back to standard.
 
Don't you have to reset the ecu to erase any learned settings? The car will then take some miles to 'relearn'.
 
Ive had a good bunch of mods done ready for stage 2+ (its standard now) now inc revo cai.hpfp and exhaust. and it felt better before i started... but id guessed it would be like that before the remap.
 
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Wouldn't your remap need adjusting as you'll now be getting a lot more 'cold' air into the engine - would have thought the REVO dealer would have known if that was the case though!
 
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I did read a post a few months ago where someone was having the same issue i.e. stalling etc. after fitting a revo cai.
The car would then run fine with the standard airbox refitted.
I'm not sure the issue was resolved tbh but I'll see of I can find the post.
The Ecu does need resetting or given chance to relearn tbh but in the first instance I would check everything is fitted correctly and tight, giving special attention to the turbo intake pipe as it's a little awkward to fit and is pre maf.
I have no issues when I have the Revo fitted to mine
 
Something is clearly wrong with this.....I would take it straight back to the dealer who fitted and mapped your car,as it should not behave like this.

It needs to be logged to find out where the problem is,but one very likely cause is the MAF.
If it's been damaged or not connected properly etc during fitting the CAI,poor idling and stalling are some of the issues caused.
 
I was just reading this and thinking I had an identical problem. Everything I tried is in the link posted above. I haven't had time to get it looked at so I'm currently back to running the standard air box again :(
 
Unfortunately the garage closed half day today, and i was literally paying for the kit whilst they shut up shop, so i'll have to wait until Monday. Interesting reading in this, and the other thread which was posted. Will keep everyone informed as to what happens come Monday.
 
It will be good to hear if you manage to sort it and what is causing it!
 
I had issues with my S3 after fitting my Revo CAI, tried cleaning the MAF, changing the PCV and searching high and low for boost leaks to no avail.

It would throw up an EML on the car and put it into limp mode, with rough idle on start up.

Resulted in me selling the intake to put money towards the clutch change, I think there was some underlying problems that it brought to light.

Maybe get another in the future once other things have been resolved.
 
Was there for about an hour, whilst they done various tests. They couldn't find any fault at all, and only noticed the problem when actually driving the car. As soon as they put the standard air filter system back on again, issue resolved. They believed it to be an issue with the MAF, and said it would cost about £100 to replace. I asked whether this would definitely fix the issue, he couldn't confirm, so i asked for a refund, and i'm now back with my original air filter system.
 
Strange to hear you are experiencing issues with it.

I had one installed to my 2007 S3 for a couple of years with Stage2+ software and no issues. I now have one in my 2010 Scirocco R again with no issues.
 
The issue is that you had the car remapped with the standard air box on and then just added the CAI without updating the map, therefore your ECU will be trying to run using the old parameters but on a different setup. Some people have issues with the fuel trim after fitting a CAI due to the MAF but this can be rectified by doing some work on the tubing around the MAF or updating the map to account for the new parameters.

Having modifications done tend to bring out or enhance any underlying issues which could be the case here, however it's most likely due to the fact that your ECU map hasn't been updated since fitting the CAI.

I had a Revo CAI fitted and then a Revo stage 1 remap done on my S3 nearly 2 months ago and have had no issues whatsoever since, I'm very happy with them.

While I can fully appreciate your frustration with the matter, as I would be too if I was in your position, I feel it would be unfair to blame the Revo CAI for the error since it wasn't setup correctly in the first place, let alone it could be an underlying problem with your S3 instead.
 
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I changed the MAF on mine but made no difference.

If it was the same dealer that did your stage 1 map and fitted your CAI, could they not adjust your map for you to see if it resolved your problem?

If I remember correctly when speaking to Rick @ Unicorn about stage 1 maps he said his maps would be complimented by a CAI. I guess this could be different for different companies though?
 
This will all be very interesting to me in a couple of months.

I'll be getting Storm to fit a 90mm induction system,and rescale the MAF to suit,so it'll be fun for them I think,making it all run.
 
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I will be fitting a CAI over the next couple of days to my S3.
At the moment, it is running APR 1+ which benefits from an intake. When I was at Awesome last week I asked if I would need my map adjusting after fitting my CAI and they said no after looking up my settings on the computer, it will adapt. .
A bit concerned after reading these posts so I will be careful when fitting.
Would it be a good idea to disconnect the battery to force it to relearn quickly?
Cheers,
Peter
 
Alas...I got a revo intake installed yesterday and I seem to be suffering the lumpy idle and random stalls when coming to a stop.

I have a SPS, and changing to the "bad fuel" settings was a mild improvement, but it does still seem to stall.

Im going to drop Revo an email to see if there are suggested settings for a post CAI install on stage 1
 
I ended up replacing my diverter valve and PCV and this solved my stalling issue.
 
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Cheers @Rob C I will keep this in mind n see what revo or the garage say.

bit of a poop time of the year for it to happen, staffing/responses will be a myth.

Just to confirm, dv is diverter valve right? though pcv is...??
 
I'm not sure what it stands for but I think it has something to do with emissions?

Hopefully someone with more knowledge will be along shortly to clear this up.
 
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Yeah it stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation, I believe all cars have variations of this now for emissions purposes.
It's the black plastic unit that is fitted to the front of the rocker cover with 3 screws and connects to the inlet manifold with the short corrugated pipe.
It's also known to cause issues with poor idling
 
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Thanks @Rob C & @-Ju-

I will do some searching to see if both bits are changeable with a halfords spanner set, as I think getting anything booked over xmas will be dire
 
You can do the pcv with a screwdriver and as you'll have no engine cover on now, it's about as easy as job as it gets tbh. The dv marginally more involved but not much
 
Nice...I will see if @mjr901 has the parts in, I might be able to combine with the engine cover ive got coming
 
As with the OP, I think your problem could potentially be down to the fact that you had your car remapped stage 1 with a stock intake and then fitted the Revo CAI on after. Where did you get it mapped, as you should be able to just take it back there and get them to tweak the map to take the new CAI parameters into account, it wouldn't take longer than an hour and so would only be a small bill to cover the little labour involved.

As you're looking at replacing the PCV and DV, make sure the PCV part number is 06F 129 101 R as this is the latest version. I'd recommend getting the GFB DV+ but if you only want OEM parts then go for the Rev G DV as it holds boost better then the newer Rev D. The only downside to the Rev G is that the rubber diaphragm is prone to splitting on tuned S3's and so should be treated as a service item.
 
Thanks @HHS3 I've dropped Revo an email to see if they can give me better settings to configure in to my SPS, hopefully it wont require plugging in to a laptop.

I was looking at some vids online regarding the PCV, (I might just go for the delete rather than replace again), and the DV apart from having to access from under the car, looks mildly "ok" to do. I think ultimately it needs abit of logging to see where the actual issue is, which the garage that did the CAI echo, its just annoying with work commitments im going to struggle to get down there :'(
 
Thanks @HHS3 and the DV apart from having to access from under the car, looks mildly "ok" to do(
Yours is an S3 isn't it?
The DV on the S3 is at the front just below the PCV, follow the return pipe from the turbo intake and you'll find it!
 
I was looking at some vids online regarding the PCV, (I might just go for the delete rather than replace again), and the DV apart from having to access from under the car, looks mildly "ok" to do. I think ultimately it needs abit of logging to see where the actual issue is, which the garage that did the CAI echo, its just annoying with work commitments im going to struggle to get down there :'(

There are a couple of different PCV delete kits out there, most like the Forge kit that I've got, only remove the front breather pipe and are the cheapest, R-Tech's delete remove both the front and rear breather pipes which is more expensive and then there's fully fledged options with a catch can etc but these cost hundreds. I'm not mechanically minded but I had no trouble in removing the PCV and fitting the Forge delete kit, all I'd say is make sure that all three screws which come with it to block the three boost taps (if not in use) have loctite on them, one of mine didn't and worked it's way into my intake manifold after a 30 minute drive!
 
@-Ju- Yes I have an S3, I think the vid I watched was for an A3, which might explain the diff location, although i think the description said 2.0...but it was late night, it could have said fairy dust for all I remember.

hmmm that sounds abit poop @HHS3, are there any sure fire good kits for the front PCV delete, or am I potentially better off just getting a OEM replacement n forgetting the whole delete route?

I have had a response from Revo, and they dont believe any changes need to be made to the map when a CAI is added, therefore suggest getting it logged to see if there are other items flagged.

Were people getting errors logged when they had this similar issue before or was it a trial n error to find the source of the issue?
 
hmmm that sounds abit poop @HHS3, are there any sure fire good kits for the front PCV delete, or am I potentially better off just getting a OEM replacement n forgetting the whole delete route?

I have had a response from Revo, and they dont believe any changes need to be made to the map when a CAI is added, therefore suggest getting it logged to see if there are other items flagged.

Were people getting errors logged when they had this similar issue before or was it a trial n error to find the source of the issue?

The Forge kit does fit nicely and everyone else who uses it on here have had no troubles with it. Slight ignorance on my part for not checking the screws but then if I pay money for a product, £90 in this case for a tiny bit of metal and some plastic with screws, then I'd expect it to come properly prepared, lesson learned there.. So there's no problem with the kit itself, just make sure the boost tap screws have loctite on them, you can pick it up for £7.

Forge PCV delete: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/perfo...rge-pcv-delete-plate-revamp-for-ea113-engines

Loctite 248 threadlocker: http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/adhesives/loctite-threadlocker

Hmm that may be the case but that does surprise me if so, they haven't updated/supported the 8P in years now so can't imagine them wanting to invest too much time into your query to be honest.

It does seem to be hit and miss with people getting issues after installing their first CAI, it's good practice to add parts and then remap/tweak the map but others have done the same as you and had no problems. I had a garage fit my Revo CAI and then do the stage 1 remap straight after of which I've had no running issues whatsoever. As previously mentioned I'm not the most mechanically minded however there's a fair difference between the stock intake and an aftermarket CAI like the Revo, hence why a stage 2 map is required in order to make full use of the new CAI and exhaust system.

Definitely worth logging your S3 though, just to see what is going on.
 
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Thanks for all the helpful info!

yeah im in two minds as to just splurge on parts hoping thats the problem, or wait up until i get the opportunity to get it hooked up to a machine and get more definitive results as to where the error lays.

PCV delete seems like a no brainer anyway tbh...
 
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Thanks for all the helpful info!

yeah im in two minds as to just splurge on parts hoping thats the problem, or wait up until i get the opportunity to get it hooked up to a machine and get more definitive results as to where the error lays.

PCV delete seems like a no brainer anyway tbh...

No worries mate, hope you get it all sorted out soon.

For sure, a full delete system is the best solution but they are around £900, this is the same amount as three decokes but only highly tuned TFSI's would require decokes so often. S3Alex had one done and there was a load of carbon in the inlet valves, tuned his S3 to well over 450BHP and then had another decoke around 30K later of which there was a load of carbon again. As ours aren't as powerful as his then ours won't build up quite as quickly but will still suffer.

The Forge delete kit only removes the front breather pipe which helps slow down the whole process but carbon still builds up due to the rear breather. My S3 has just hit 60K so am planning to get one done next year, then same again once it hits 110K.
 
Well heres an update.

I contacted Audi in anticipation of buying the DV from them to get thing moving, after abit of a song n dance, it would appear that Audi refer to it as a cut-off valve n not Diverter. *sigh* anyway, the dude said that there was possibly 2 options listed for my car n it would be advisable to bring in the old on although he would get both on order.

Sooooo...at about 11pm last night I start tackling this DV to get it off the car, as I took off the final bolt, the main body of the unit seemed to fall off in to my hand, but the top end was disconnected. thought this was a tad strange but meeeeh.

soooo (argh this is getting long winded)...long story short, I checked all the rubber n the piston/valve n they all seemed intact, so my thoughts were that possibly the fact that the two bits were apart was the root of my issue. So I reassembled, and installed back on the car. In the process of installing, it would appear I managed to Eff Up the threads for one of the bolts, so now it will only go down about 40% before coming to a halt. anyway, so "secured" with two remaining bolts then went for a test drive.

No lumpy idle, n no cutting out when stopping!! Result!! One thing I am noticing now is that there seems to be an additional "yelp" coming from the engine when I shift when accelerating hard, n I heard it a few times when going through the higher rev band, could possibly be the turbo spooling off.

So apart from making an enemy in the parts department @ audi, do you guys think I will get away with just having the two bolts securing the DV, or should I attempt to get the threads redone so that I am back to 3 again?

also...any idea what the yelp might be?

ta
 
Glad you managed to sort the issue out yourself mate and save on some pennies. It is definitely more commonly referred to as the Diverter valve rather then a cut off valve, sounds like you had a lot of effort to go through just for a simple call, I do wonder what the hell Audi are doing nowadays with the amount of clowns they hire!

Anyway, what year is your S3? Mine is an 07 and came with the old Rev C DV, the Rev G was introduced in the 08 models and is worth upgrading to if yours has the C (or D) in it. The two bolts will do the job for the interim but it is always worth sorting out the third sometime in the near future just for piece of mind.

Regarding the yelp, when mine went in for the Revo CAI and stage 1 remap, I also had the Rev G fitted at the same time and as soon as I took it out for a spin the DV was making all sorts of noises on top of the CAI when giving it some. I've since upgraded to the GFB DV+ which makes the same noises as well when tearing and shifting gears, it holds boost better then the G which already holds boost better than the D. So I'd personally recommend getting the GFB DV+ and sorting out the third bolt at the same time.
 
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This forum has been a great help in saving the pennies here, especially the kind folk like yourself not chastising me for the essays hahaha. The Audi dude was quite helpful, sending me pics n stuff to confirm. Though I could hear the "WTF?" in his voice when I kept repeating Diverter Valve :$

I think my car as the Rev C too going by the part number stamped on the side. Can the GFB DV+ mod this revision too, or is there a minimum Rev they advise? I will have a butchers to see if they have a manual etc.

Yeah, I will see what can be done re bolt...just soooo annoying, I was screwing using manual labour, so i dont know how it re-grooved like that.

The turbo was probably screaming with pleasure with the dense 1am air, filthy lil minx that she is
 
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You should be able to re-tap the threads with a second tap. It has a taper on it, so you will only re-cut the part of the thread that's damaged.
 
The alpha male inside of me is shrinking as I type this...

but can you break that down/explain that for me :$
 
This forum has been a great help in saving the pennies here, especially the kind folk like yourself not chastising me for the essays hahaha. The Audi dude was quite helpful, sending me pics n stuff to confirm. Though I could hear the "WTF?" in his voice when I kept repeating Diverter Valve :$

I think my car as the Rev C too going by the part number stamped on the side. Can the GFB DV+ mod this revision too, or is there a minimum Rev they advise? I will have a butchers to see if they have a manual etc.

Yeah, I will see what can be done re bolt...just soooo annoying, I was screwing using manual labour, so i dont know how it re-grooved like that.

The turbo was probably screaming with pleasure with the dense 1am air, filthy lil minx that she is

It's a great forum to be fair and has helped me out a lot, I'm just passing on the knowledge I've mainly learned from others off of here and a little through personal experience to be fair. Don't worry I've been know to write an essay or two myself haha! Best to be thorough though ay ;)

The part numbers for the DVs are 06F 145 710 C, 06F 145 710 G & 06H 145 710 D. The GFB DV+ comes with instructions and just uses the outer housing which is the same across all three of them but replaces the internals with their uprated parts, so you'll be fine with the Rev C. One thing worth noting is that if you're buying a second hand GFB DV+, then make sure it is one that was produced in 2013 or later as this is when a revised spring was introduced to the unit.

Yes I can imagine she was! The S3 is great car, I have so much fun in it and I still love it just as much as when I first bought her, can't wait for stage 2+!

The alpha male inside of me is shrinking as I type this...

but can you break that down/explain that for me :$

I'll leave that bit to Jake to explain as I'm useless in actually doing things myself!
 
The alpha male inside of me is shrinking as I type this...

but can you break that down/explain that for me :$
A tap, is just basically a tool that cuts threads in metal, so if you drill a hole in say some metal you can tap it to what ever thread you require.
If you have a damaged thread you can screw the desired tap back through and it will clean out and recut the thread so you can screw back into it.
Sometimes you need to tap to the next size up if enough material available and then use a slightly larger screw.

You can get taps that are like screw driver bits or others that require a t-bar but require alot more space so you can turn the bar.

Not sure on the thread of the DV bolts, sure someone handy that's close to you could help out.
 
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