Revo CAI – Not Impressed (Short Review)

[Simply D]

ahhh haa..

thanking ye all kindly! I will see what my local garage has re Tap tools, hes pretty tooled up n will prob sort me out.

I will look in to the GFB DV+, i was reading somewhere on 'ere that there was a colour change of one of the bits or something which should make it easier to spot the pre/post 2013 revision.

Knowing my luck, I will get some doughnut write my car off now ive been chucking money at it. Same thing happened with my focus..spent £1500+ then some numpty thought his phone screen was more important than looking at the road ahead and my stationary car

 

[HHS3]

Ouch that is some serious bad luck you had there, it still surprises me to this day the shear amount of stupidity of @sshole drivers! How they got their licences I don't know, if someone did that to my S3 it would be one of the rare instances where I could go law abiding citizen on them haha.

 

[Jake 61]

The alpha male inside of me is shrinking as I type this...

but can you break that down/explain that for me :$

Sorry, I work in engineering, so that was maybe a bit short on info...

Above is a set of taps, from bottom to top, they are first, second and full taps.
What I suggested was getting the middle, (second tap), as it will not re-cut the bottom of your thread, due to the taper on it. You said the bolt was sticking out, so the thread is damaged at the start of the hole.
These taps are usually turned with a tap wrench, (a t-bar handle), but they are square, so you can turn them carefully, with a spanner or shifter. I'm not sure of the size of the DV bolts, but once you find out, you just need to get a tap the same size. It's worth a go.

 

[prt57]

Before embarking on tapping out the hole it is worth checking the holes themselves. From memory, 2 of the holes in the base plate that the DV bolts down to go right through but the 3rd hole has a blind end.
If this is the hole that is causing the problem it could be worth checking that there is nothing in the hole preventing the bolt from screwing down properly. Clean the threads fully using a non fluffy rag wrapped round a thin screwdriver.

 

[S.]

Dv+ is great. You can use any revision dv body with it. Also comes with longer screws so maybe that might help you. Also change was stiffer spring for k04 cars as the first batch had weaker spring (designed for k03). Failing that you can contact mike at parts request here and get the metal part the dv screws on.

 

[Simply D]

I looked at the bit it screws in to, and it seems pretty integral to the block/construction, I think re-grooving the top (with the mystical Tap device) will be the only way. The hole is the one furthest away which goes all the way through. I need to actually look at it during daylight, but from the torchlight I think I could actually see some of the threads/runners coming off

Main problem is that im trying to get everything done for last year like a petulant child before xmas closedown kicks in, as ive got a beast of a road trip up to BCS early in the new year.

This whole having a job thing is sooooooo inconvenient sometimes :|

 

[nluk100]

If the holes goes all the way through then you could use a normal nut and bolt setup rather than run the risk of re-threading it?

 

[Simply D]

As in chuck in a smaller bolt then utilise a bolt either end?

tbh this is a fiddly mother of a hole which is obscured by piping n another wiring loom, I think that will introduce more hassle than it will relieve

 

[Bazzle]

For the bolts if it goes in OK and stops 1/4" from the bottom is strange. Normally threads go near the beginning. Check hole is clear (torch).
Any way try putting a spacer under bolt head< spare nut, so it holds short term. Do not over tighten.

 

[Simply D]

nah, its shagged at the top, so it goes down like 10mm, then it stops.

will go out n have a look in a sec, also take the opportunity to install my Forge PCV Delete...wooohooo

although I read on here recently that someone removed theirs as there was smell of oil coming back in the car, I'm quite a diva when it comes to smells, that would really shirk me if its true

 

[dg-1984]

nah, its shagged at the top, so it goes down like 10mm, then it stops.

will go out n have a look in a sec, also take the opportunity to install my Forge PCV Delete...wooohooo

although I read on here recently that someone removed theirs as there was smell of oil coming back in the car, I'm quite a diva when it comes to smells, that would really shirk me if its true

Might be the full pcv delete you would get the oil smell should be ok with just the front one fitted.

 

[Simply D]

Merry xmas folk!

With the miracle of daylight I was able to get the original bolt in, I think the holes were misaligned, but I remember attempting that bolt first as I knew it would be the trickiest...I even tried it without the DV n it still stopped...

Meeeeh all is right in the world, thank you EVERYONE for your help during this roller coaster ride, hopefully this will assist other folk going forward.

 

[nothingness]

I highely doubt changing the induction kit on a remapped car will cause these issues. It is not a major change, very minor, on top of that it is turbocharged so the only thing I can see is a dodgy maf sensor or they simply didn't plug it in properly?

 

[Simply D]

the issue only happened post induction kit install...but I think the DV was always the primary factor as that's the only thing I "adjusted" between it being lumpy and then being "ok". It could have just been the extra airflow from the CAI that caused it to fully blow its head...or it could have been knocked during CAI install...who knows :s

It is still going strong though, and I'm hearing every turbo flutter, darth vader suck of air, and release from the DV

Chav level 100 achieved