Must do modifications for K03/K03s AGU and AUM engines FWD cars


Man Boost!
Sep 16, 2008
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Grumpy post. But, let me get the misery out of the way first...

I am fed up with constant posts and threads about tuning 1.8t's and how to do this and should I do that. I am king of the K03s on this forum, so I will share my findings and knowledge with you guys. If at this point you think I am being big headed; you probably own an S3 so click the back button now :beerchug:

I am sure a mod will sticky this, so we can use it for future use. It is basically a one thread summary of the FAQ thread nobody ever reads...


So you have just got your 1.8t and you want to know what dump valve and decat or air filter you should put on it? Well stick with this thread and all will become clear :)

Does my car have a K03s?​

You have probably read about this, if not then let me fill you in...

Your turbo is a Borg Warner KKK series turbo in one form or another they come in two types, K03 and K03 "s".

Specification is as follows -

Ko3 - 97-2000

Inducer: 33.6mm
Exducer: 46mm
Tip height: 3.7mm

Inducer: 45mm
Exducer: 38mm
Tip height: 6.8mm
Blades: 11

Ko3S - 01+

Inducer: 38mm
Exducer: 51mm
Tip height: 4.4mm

Inducer: 45mm
Exducer: 38mm
Tip height: 6.8mm
Blades: 11

Generally speaking if your vehicle is a pre-facelift car with an AGU engine it will have a K03 turbo, if it is a facelift car it will have an AUM engine and a K03s turbo. For now, that is all you need to know. Your engine code can be found on a tab on the left hand side of the front of the head, just behind the throttle body.

A K03 turbo is capable of making 195bhp, and a K03s in top condition and spec is capable of making 250bhp (but yours never will)

A K03s upgrade is a simple remove and refit procedure for a K03 car. No modifications or additional parts are required.

A brief introduction to your ECU and software.​

Our cars use a Bosch ME ECU; it is a beautifully clever piece of kit and is the envy of almost everybody who doesn't have a standalone ECU.

Pre facelift AGU cars use a narrow band ECU and hardware package called "ME3.8", which is quite frankly dumb as **** and tough as houses. These ECUs do not have a MAP sensor, use bolt down coil packs with a three wire plug (which almost never fail) which use a separate ignition amplifier which is formed into your air box (more on that later), and a cable throttle body to name a few differences.

An AGU engine with "ME3.8" software WILL NOT WORK with a Bluetooth ELM OBD2 sender and the Torque phone app.


Facelift AUM cars use an "ME7.5" Bosch ECU and are much more sophisticated than the AGU setup. AUM cars use a MAP sensor to request and deliver boost, they use an electric throttle body and fly by wire throttle pedal, they use push down coil packs with built in ignition amplifiers, have a different connector on their MAF as well as many other modern enhancements above the AGU. Most of which do not need to be discussed here and should be looked up as needed.

An ME7.5 car WILL WORK with an OBD Bluetooth adapter and the Torque app.

Both AGU and AUM cars can be port mapped; however be prepared that early AGU engines need to be removed and physically chip tuned. Very rare though.

What dump valve for my pride and joy?​


Just wanted to throw that out there right away, to save you guys some money. It is a common misconception and as somebody new to tuning you might not understand this, but in short the standard DV can safely and leak free hold more boost than our turbos can make whilst reacting quickly and efficiently, so unless yours is faulty there is no need to change it.

If your car flutters and sounds like a rally car when you lift off, or does anything other than a crisp and clean "Kachooo" noise then your DV is toast. You can press up from the bottom port, and place your thumb over the top nipple and see if the valve itself drops. If it does, it is split and fit for the bin.

The purpose of a dump valve is to rapidly remove pressure from the intake tract to stop the air from trying to return through the turbo and causing compressor stall.

You can fit a Forge 007p dump valve, but if you do then please make sure it has the newly revised piston with the rubber o ring at the base of the piston.


Prepping your car for more power!​

"You can't polish a ****."

Prep prep prep. Before making any modifications it is well worth ensuring your vehicle is at a good state of tune before stressing the components.

By this I mean ensuring there are no fault codes from faulty hardware, smoke testing the inlet pipes to ensure you are boost free, spending money on servicing the vehicles with new plugs (BK7RE if you are a man), fresh oil (Quantum, straight from TPS), ensuring your brake fluid has been renewed, that your coolant has been refreshed and flushed, thermostat changed and cam belt and waterpump changed to interval.

This will ensure the best result when you do come to making your beast go faster. This also includes running V Power or Tesco Momentum high octane fuels only.

Basic modifications for the average Joe.​

So you want to go a little faster. My best advice to you is write a list, plan what you want and think about the steps you need to take. Plan your purchases and budgeting accordingly.

Your list of mods should go like this....

1.) Air Filter.
2.) S3 brakes.
3.) Silicone turbo intake pipe.
4.) REMAP!!!!


First thing you need to do is sack off the air box and buy a cone filter. Personally I recommend you read this thread and buy a Honda S2000 air filter and the appropriate adapters which are all listed in this thread.

Otherwise you can purchase a Jetex filter from Bill at Badger 5 by phoning +44 (0)1453 822880 and speaking with him nicely.

A Jetex filter will clamp straight into your MAF and be awesome, a heat shield to hold the MAF can be purchased from either Bill or S3Dave by PM'ing Dave. Whilst the heat shield will do very little to aid performance it does tidy up the installation and offer support for the MAF.

If you have an AGU try to zip tie or secure the ignition amplifier which you pull from your stock air box in a free flowing area close to the filter where it will stay as cool as it can.

The second on that list is S3 brakes. These can be purchased on eBay, they are a 312mm disc. S3 and A3 share the same calipers so your existing pads can be used, if you are mental. The caliper carriers will need to be purchased from somebody breaking a car, the adapters from any 5x100 312mm car will work, these include Skoda Octavia, Leon Cupra, Mk4 Golf GTI Anniversary, TT's and S3's.


The third part of my list is a silicone turbo intake pipe, which can be purchased all over the place. But don't skimp!!! Forge ones have the largest constant internal diameter as an off the shelf item, otherwise SFS have started making an 80mm "supersize" intake pipe.

The intake pipe will offer more torque, a smoother power delivery and more power. Cool stuff.


Last up is the remap, which is what REALLY counts. Bill at Badger 5 is your best option out of our forum sponsors (that will **** some of them off, but **** it we all know its true) so give him a ring and see what you can do. Otherwise there is AMD in Essex and I believe we also have a fair few Revo stockist on here too. I also seem to recall Mark Brodster or Brodster who is in Scotland does maps as well. Whilst I don't know his work, I know the bloke is a legend.

DO NOT go to somewhere which isn't endorsed or recommended by this forum, we know our ****. A mapping session should include a fault find session and vehicle health check, a pre map rolling road with dyno print out and data logging followed by a map application and a post map rolling road run and data logging.

This will provide you with an accurate and accountable before and after gain, along with a highlight of any hardware issues which the software may have exploited.


All cars are different, and two identical cars may make different power.

With the modifications listed above and a proper map you would hope to see somewhere in the region of 185bhp for a K03 equipped car and somewhere in the region of 210bhp for a K03s car. As long as it is healthy and correctly built.

Bah! I want more!​

So you have dipped your toe in the pool and been bitten by the modification bug...more POWAH.

From here you can look to go to "stage 2" figures, unless you have a K03...then you need to go home and fit a K03s and then come back to this section.

Stage 2 referes to a higher standard of modifications, and takes your vehicle to the next level or performance. The map should be custom, and will offer you much more mid range punch as well as a higher peak power and a raised rev limit.

Stage 2 for me is much more than the engine, it is the accompanying and supporting modifications which provide a complete package.

It is also my opinion that a stage 2 A3 is as good as an 8L gets, quicker than an S3, balanced, usable and reliable.

Modifications list for a "stage 2" A3 -

5.) Coilovers.
6.) Fast Road brake pads.
7.) N249 bypass and PCV delete.
8.) Front Mount Intercooler.
9.) VR6 clutch and ABF Flywheel.
10.) Rear ARB kit.
11.) Polybushed suspension arms and "dogbone" mount.
12.) S3/LCR Steering rack.
13.) Front ARB (at the same time as the rack)
14.) SAI delete (for AUM cars)
15.) Downpipe and decat or sports cat
16.) Exhaust.
17.) REMAP AGAIN!!!!!


Coilovers is a great way to make your car handle better.

Read this thread,

Do some research and make your decision.


Fast road brake pads means Ferodo DS2500, basically.

Don't buy EBC, they are unsafe and known to fail.


N249 Bypass,

N249 is a sort of boost control system, the above thread has all the information you will need.

PCV delete, DIY MKIV GTI/GLI 1.8T PCV Delete/Catch Can Install & Brake Booster Mod

This will remove the crank case ventilation that dumps oil vapors into your intake, it's a spivvy system designed to save the planet. But seeing as the planet is full of clowns, you won't need it.

Front mount Intercooler,

Fitting a front mount Intercooler will provide lower IATs and a chance for your ECU to make the most of the air/fuel charge you are providing the cylinders.

On an AUM you will need no fit a Forge MAP sensor tube.

You will need to extensively modify your front bumper as well as follow that guide posted above to the letter.


A VR6 clutch and single mass flywheel from an ABF will lighten your clutch pedal feel, offer a stronger clutch (300bhp no sweat) and a more engaging and positive bite. A hugely awesome modification for 02J 5 speed boxes.

If you use google you will get part numbers for the flywheel bolts and the clutch cover bolts.

Buy from eBay, get the bolts straight from VW.


Rear anti roll bar kit really livens up the feel of the car and enduces a bit of lift off over steer if you can drive. Brand names to look out for are Eibach, H&R and Whiteline. All are good. The stiffer the bar, the more you'll spin before you hit the lamp post.


Polybushed suspension goes without saying, make sure to get caster corrective rear lower arm bushes.

The dogbone bush will rattle and vibrate the car, for the first 1000miles. It gives a much more positive feel on and off the throttle, and provides a much more connected feel to the car. A hugely awesome modification and takes to mins.


An S3 or LCR steering rack will provide 2.7 turns lock to lock rather than the stock 3.4, it makes for a more positive feeling drive as well as providing some much needed steering weight.

Ensure that you replace the crush washers on the joins, and make sure you change the steering rack bush at the same time.


On facelift cars fitting an LCR rack will **** up he steering angle sensor and the ABS and ESP will kick in on long sweeping bends, this can be totally disabled in VCDS, or by physically turning it off on the dash board.

Pre facelift cars have no ESP so it works perfectly.


A front anti roll bar will provide less or more under steer depending on thickness, however it will allow the lows you know that you ant without rubbing the drive shaft, because the hoops are bigger. Look out for the same names as with the rear ARB, and try to buy matching brands for extra man points.

You can also fit an LCR, S3 or TT bar which goes under the driveshaft, so you can go mega lows.


SAI means Secondary Air Injection, it pumps air into the exhaust to warm the cats from a cold start. If you have an AUM, buy a blanking plate and sack that **** off. It weighs a ton, look crap and does nothing for you.

Removal guide here,


Downpipes on K03 cars are a HUGE restriction, like massive. So fit a DP and get more flow :)

There is a guide for that here , 1.8T 3" GHL Downpipe Install DIY. Here is a little wri - VW Forum :: Volkswagen Forum

But the downpipe and decat off eBay, £90 delivered Toyosport one. They are awesome for the money.


Exhaust is down to you, but I am a huge miltek fan. That said you could get one hand/custom made at a local specialist cheaper.

You will need to cut and modify your rear bumper for this. It will be worth buying a 2.5" exhaust and modifying the downpipe and decat your bought to make it a full 2.5" system.


Have you really done all of that already? Jesus, time flys.

Custom, proper mapping time. Now you really really do need to go to a specialist!

All the same things I said before apply here, but are doubly important. Expect to take 4/6 hours to get this done properly, and expect to leave with around 230/235bhp and 280/290lbft torque.

And a MASSSSSSSIVE smiile on your face.

Tuners can map in launch control if you have ME7/AUM, which is also awesome.

So does this mean the end of tuning, am I done now?​

Nope, there is much more to do.

Leon Cupra R Brembos, K04 conversions, water meth injection, and a lot more things I will come back to tomorrow.


This little guide has taken me an hour to write up, I pray to god you newbies use and read it, I may kill you otherwise.

Expect an update and the next chapter tomorrow night.

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Excellent thread. Some very useful information in there!
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good effort Jardo.

The next level you can educate them on really pushing the stock turbo with, large port, wmi, stiffer preload actuator, ported manifold, ported hotside, large port mani.
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Nicely done Jardo,

I do enjoy reading your posts....sometimes with tongue in cheek and often with a few genuine laugh out louds! eg EBC is 'unsafe' lol I've used EBC products for the past 5 years so looks like I'm on borrowed time fella! Haha ;) I realise there not the best out there but there adequate for the job in hand.

One of my best mates actually purchased a golf AGU mk4 gti today and its had a K03s conversion and loads of other crap thrown at another close friend has a leon cupra K03s - so will pointing them to this thread as I'm fed up with having to relay every piece of information to them about tuning a K03s!

Just got to add your sig is properly funny :D
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Cheers buddy. Glad you enjoyed the read :)

You will die because of those brake pads, and I promise it will be painful. Back in the day EBC themselves issued an unofficial safety notice on various forums admitting that they hadn't got the backing or "glue" right for our cars and that the pads they had been selling weren't up to the weight we were lugging about.

What was happening was the pads were just sheering clean off the backings and leaving people brake less, or flaking off in massive chunks where the glues and resins were harder or softer. Shocking rewlly for a company who claim to he market leaders.

Your call; but personally I will never run another EBC product after that. And there are many other members on here who are the same :)

Try some DS2500's next, you will be amaaaaazed :beerchug:
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Added to Stickies... (you never know... one day someone will use them :shrug:)

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At least I will know where to find it to redirect people. Thanks PT.

As SK suggested, tonight will be a guide to more focused tuning and how to really squeeze the most out of everything you have got. It gets expensive and technical tonight :readit:
Haha- yeah I have been meaning to try out the DS2500s, just been very unlucky in the times the fronts need changing I have had something else major break which has bankrupt me :(

I'll be waiting until I find a nice LCR Brembo set up I think :)

Will you be moving onto hybrid information for the K03s tonight? I know lots of people would be extremely interested in what a hybrid is, what's the benefits and what options are available to them and from who - especially as it would be cheaper than a K04 conversion.
The two I currently know of are the K03s with K04 internals (K250?) and the K03s that is the K300? Not to sure on the specifics on the K300 though.
I want LCR Brembos too :( There is nothing wrong with EBC pads on standard cars being used on the road in normal conditions; it is just when you start pushing on or entertain a track day.

Hybrids tonight yes; but if I am honest I won't be anywhere near as thorough as I could be. I think it is best to keep it simple and not too technical; if people like what they see then they can research those points further.

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Who wouldn't want big red shiny 4 pot brakes made by Brembo :)

I've always wanted a set going to back to my Fiat Punto Mk1 days...I often dreamed about fiitting the junior GT kit to it, but would work out more than the car! lol

I mean to be fair you have been very thorough with the above- there's not much more people can ask apart from maybe where to buy the parts from...which can change regularly- but site sponsors can cover pretty much everything you listed above.

Keep it up :rock: as I expect a large amount of Golf/Leon owners coming along and reading the information above, as my friends have shown me the forums they go on and it makes me appreciate how good this community is on ASN. What with sharing information, stamping out myths and having a very easy to use stickies section.
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Awesome thread man... A lot of effort went in to it I can tell. Pretty much sums up everything you need to know as a newbie
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Awsome read!! Forum has been crying out for this, too many waste of time threads, that are summd up here!

hats off to you
Maximizing your K03 setup or swapping to K04.

Ok, so the first thing I would like to make clear is that it will be cheaper for you to buy a K04 than to improve on your K03 setup at this point.

So you get two choices, swap to K04, or make a blood oath to the tuning gods. I opted for the blood oath; now 6 months later I'm fitting a K04 anyway.

If you chose to fit a K04 setup you can expect to lay out roughly £600-£750 all in; I won't cover K04 conversions in this guide. But there are plenty of guides out there.

I would recommend you upgrade to K04 now whilst you have got the chance, and you will get £3/400 back for your K03s set up. The K04 will have less torque, a slower spool up and be arguably less stress at a higher BHP than the K03s setup will be once you start pushing its limits.


Sticking with a tiny turbo.

So you've stuck with a tiny turbo, good man! Go fit a boost gauge, and see how much torture you're putting that little snail through. Install guide here -

The next step is to make your current set up as efficient as possible, and with a K03s car that generally means increasing flow and lowering IAT and EGT's.

The first place to look at increasing flow is the intake routing, this doesn't have to cost you anything but it is well worth taking a morning out to do. Have a good look at all of your IC routing, now that you have a little more experience you will be able to see potential kinks, flat spots, areas where you could improve over what you have done before. Trimming down the length of the pipes, tweaking your silicone joiners etc.

You should also look at your intake pipe; did you buy one of the brands I suggested? Or did you just buy a £50 special off eBay because your mate said they were all the same?

537896_10200602755651242_1012216928_n_zpsbfb38a85.  jpg

Cheap Creation Motorsport TIP which was a copy of the original Forge item, against an updated Forge TIP below.

Big difference. And this is where you need to really focus your efforts, finding areas like this which can be improved on.

You should be doing this anyway, but check all of your intake routing for leaks. Check your clips and hoses, and if they are Mikalor then throw them in the bin and buy JCS Hi-Grip clamps.

If you find any little bits like this then your map will not need to be tweeked, your ECU will adapt to the better flow and efficiency and you will be rewarded with little nuggets of power as you work through the setup.

Use this guide to learn how to check for boost leaks with VCDS -

And get ready for the next episode...


People keep telling me an AGU is stronger? What's a large port head?

AGU's are the older engine, and yes out of the box fresh from Audi they probably were a little bit stronger than an AUM. They had 20mm gudgeon pins and a forged crank. But most importantly they had a large port head.

AUM's had 19mm gudgeon pins and a cast crank. They had a small port head.

These engines are ten years old now, average mileage would say that they have all done over 120K (which I know lots haven't but you know what I mean) and most haven't really been looked after so well. So don't take any chances, unless you have rods every stock internal engine is just as likely to break as all the others. However people have been known to say "it won't bend at this power." Generally speaking I don't think anybody has ever documented a K03s bending/throwing a con rod without running stupid launch control or flat shift (damn South Africans).

Not to say there aren't benefits over the AGU though. AGU engines were much simpler, and they have the free flowing large port head and technically should be stronger.

The difference is large -


But this is where it gets interesting; by fitting a large port head you have the potential for less torque. Torque means boost, and boost means asking more from your turbo. But it's already giving everything it safely can. So what can the large port head offer you?

More flow and power as a trade off for torque. In reality, on our cars I think the difference is negligible.

So why bother going to the expense of finding and fitting an AGU head? If you're sticking K03 of cause. If you are going K04 then get it done, but in reality on our small turbos I'm not sure it is really necessary.

Save the money from converting your AUM to AGU head, and buy what's further down the page...

Which ever engine you have it is great. Look after it and it will look after you. :)


Take note AGU owners, your injectors are currently MAXXXXED OUT.​

AGU injectors and MAF, not cool. Running a 4 bar FPR on a stock pump? Also not cool.

Your injectors are designed to flow 249cc at 3 bar. Your fuel pump is rated to supply 3 bar idle and an additional 1 bar on boost; no more. Your stock fuel regulator is 3bar. So don't put a 4 bar FPR in there, it will send your fueling out by roughly 15%, so your FPR will put 15% more in, and your ECU will then ask it to take out 15% putting you back where you started. A lot of faff for no gain, and they cost £20/30.

What you want is either set of these two injectors -

Calibra Yellow 306cc(@3bar)

Saab Redtops 346cc(@3bar)

These will comfortably fuel your K03s with a safe duty cycle.

Don't fit them yet, put them in a box and give them to your tuner when you get there for more mapping.


Your MAF is a bit pants. It can only actually read 187G/s of air, and then +/- for atmospheric pressure. Which means you could be all MAF'd out at 234BHP :( Oh noes!

Buy yourself a VR6 MAF, but DO NOT FIT IT WHATEVER YOU DO! Just keep it in a box until you go to your tuner, and let them do the rest. You will also need to buy an 80mm filter for the new maf, and an adapter to bring the 80mm maf down to the 70mm intake pipe.


Water Meth Injection. Boom!

Literally the best stuff in the world ever.

In short, it is a highly potent methanol injection system which provides an atomized mist into your intake routing. What this love juice does is lower your intake temperatures, provide a high octane rating for a more controlled burn (knock protection) which allows you to run more advance, as well as steam cleaning your engine internals. It also gives sick as fk blue flames.

Where do I sign up, take my money now!

You're probably so excited about having steam cleaned internals you missed the most important part (for us), which is more advance. Yeaaaaaaaaaah. Advance is good, in short it offers more power, more efficiency, lower EGT's as long as you have something like methanol injection to control your octane rating. If you don't, you'll get det and die.

There is also the benefit of having the same driving feel as you would get on a frosty morning, every day. Due to the low IAT's.

All in all it is a beautiful bit of kit. A shameless plug here, but if you want to purchase a kit then phone Phil Miller on 07423 309693, he is a forum regular and now a registered fitter and supplier of Devils Own injection kits.

See this video for how WMI works -


So what can the above do for me power wise? It's cost a fortune...

IF, and it is a big if. You are mental, and have done all of the above you will have the best specification K03s possible. And you'll be able to try your luck at pushing it further for more power.

You can expect to see 245-250bhp from the above setup, but you will be giving your turbo absolute death. And I really really wouldn't recommend pushing things further.

Bill at Badger is MORE than capable of doing it, but in the interest of fairness Niki at R Tech has had 270bhp out of a K03s totally nailed. So he is also a great contender. I'm not sure Bill would want to put his name to a 250bhp K03s either; because it is basically a ticking time bomb. However with his care and attention on the MAP I am sure it would be a joy to drive.

What you should be doing at this point though is continuing the build, because in the next section you an have some big improvements and you'll really want to get it mapped again when you see what's coming up.


Hybrid K03 turbos

Hybrids, the life blood of the K03 owners wanting more for the past 7 years. A hybrid turbo is a mix of two turbos, to create one super turbo. In our case it is usually our existing K03s with a K04.

One name for this - Bill. Mr Brockbank from Badger 5 is the undisputed king of 1.8t hybrids, he has done more research, more building, more development and had better results than anybody. He did the research and development on the CR units.

If you want an OE fitment, minimal install work and 270/280bhp - Badger5/CRT K04 hybrid(K03 fitment) - Kit - SEAT - SEAT Forum - Read that thread and then pick up the phone.

I won't go into detail about Bills hybrid work, because I won't be able to do them enough justice. But if Bill wants to make a post in this thread explaining them better then that would be very helpful.

You may want to contemplate fitting rods at this point, K04 cars have been known to bend rods at 270bhp. And given the quick spool of this turbo, I would recommend it. It isn't necessary, you don't HAVE to do it. But you would be foolish not too.

You will also need to look at updating your injectors and MAF if you are an AGU owner amd didn't do your maf andq injectors as I said above. Or if you are an AUM owner depending on how far you want to go, but you would be safe at 265/270. Any more than that and you need to be advised by your tuner based on duty cycles of what you have.

Also read this thread -

I don't think anybody on this forum has one of these yet? I want one though...

WTF is a K04-001?

It's a marginally larger K03s which provides roughly 3% more power. It is a direct replacement, but it will cost you £300+ and you'd gain more performance by ditching your spare wheel.

Don't waste your money.

Sorry, but that's all that can be said on the matter.


I'll continue this a little bit later. I'm bored now :)
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...Generally speaking I don't think anybody has ever documented a K03s bending/throwing a con rod without running stupid launch control or flat shift (damn South Africans).

Hahahahah I nearly died at this comment... (Yes I'm a South African and run "stupid launch control and flat shift"...

Please write up a k04 conversion as well? I really enjoy these treads and the way your writing them up...
Crazy mother ****ers, the lot of you.

Ok, I will write up a K04 conversion.

All good!:icon_thumright: Very usefull guide for guys who start modding their car now!The oly think i have to say is that AGU has 285cc injectors and for aftermarket the value4money is bosch green top that produce 440cc with 3bar fpr:yes:
Nice write up dude! Some effort gone into this!
^^Just taking the p***. Great thread though, all the info anyone with a puny FWD 1.8t would need. A lot of work gone into it. Best post I have seen from you yet.
^^Just taking the p***. Great thread though, all the info anyone with a puny FWD 1.8t would need. A lot of work gone into it. Best post I have seen from you yet.

I feel as though I live my life answering menial questions on ASN :readit:
Like a B5 S4.. Cheap power these days.

Yeah, perfect for getting children in the back of.

Take that whichever way you wish.

Either way, they're not cool and there is nothing cheap about owning an S4.

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what i did to my ko3 AGU when i first got her @100k-

Full service- all belts (cam, PAS), fluids (engine, box, PS, and brakes) and pick up pipe

Forge 008 quickly changed for OE 710N (ultimately better thanks J-Dog, no mooing once given a spray of lithium spray)

PiperX filter and Forge TIP. Modded airbox

All new silicone vac hosing

complete PCV re-pipe and vent to atmosphere. Charcoal can delete. Cleaned what seemed like a litre of oil from intercooler. Rear arch vent mod.

New Bosch crank sensor

TDI exhaust centre section- silencer delete

New OE accellarator cable. Boost gauge

Always run on V-Power. Measure all temps, MAF and TB opening on VCDS lite.

All cheap little things which i feel should be the base of any K03 going to map, or further.
When mapped by Chris @ Midland VW he had trouble with the TB as it was a N/A unit. Also i had a weak actuator that needed a litttle preload. Once these were fixed, the car makes peaks of 185hp, 220lbft, and 16psi.
I only asked for a safe map, and a full health check.
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Great thread very useful going to follow the steps as suggested by 16Klappe :)
they're not cool and there is nothing cheap about owning an S4.


Not cool? Sorry, whattttt? its basically a 1.8t but just doubled!

Nothings cheap when your a member of ASN.

How come they aren't cool? I think they are deceptive, although i wouldn't want to own one, hatches are the way for me
Ever since a 4ft 3 Philipino that I know purchased one I have never looked at them the same.

Maybe it's just me.
When you done with the k04 write up you will need to start on the k04-064 write up :)
Charcoal can delete & rear vent mod ?
Elaborate please , I've not heard if either !
May be my next jobs ;)

The 1.8t has a side mount intercooler. air enters through a vent in the front, but has nowhere to escape. i believe the S3 TT have a vented arch to aid the escape of air. so simply crate a few vents in the arch. I tested it trough VCDS and it has seem to cool the IAT's quicker after a minute or two in the redline.

Also, the PCV and charcoal can systems enter the engine via the TB and inlet mani. deleting these make sure the boost system stays as simple and clean as possible, with no leaks. the charcoal can runs from the bottom of the tip, where its ****** hot, all the way to the wash bottle. im naughty and vent both mine to air. i dont have to clean my TB anymore, as is shiney and clean and idles as rock solid as Lexington Steele.
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