Difference between 1.9TDI & 2.0TDI

Melsi

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Hi,

I was wondering if anybody could explain or outline the main differences between the 1.9tdi 2.0tdi on a manual transmission 55reg a3

Thank you
 
1.9tdi 105bhp and 2.0tdi 140bhp. The 2.0tdi bigger engine and gives out more power as you can see. Difference in group insurance and tax. 1.9 will be cheaper to buy then a 2.0tdi. 1.9 better mpg. If your picking between those to the 2.0tdi is the best one hands down 1.9 not even on the same level.
 
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The 1.9 has better MPG though and they do tend to be cheaper to buy.
 
1.9 TDI PD 55-118kW

engine configuration 1,896 cubic centimetres (115.7 cu in) inline four cylinder Turbocharged Direct Injection (TDI) cylinder block grey cast iron, bore x stroke (mm): 79.5 x 95.5 crankshaft fracture-split forged steel connecting rods cylinder head cast aluminium alloy, bucket tappets, single overhead camshaft (SOHC), compression ratio: 19.0:1 aspiration turbocharger, cast aluminium alloy intake manifold fuel system Pumpe Düse (PD) Unit Injector, multi-point direct injection (DI)

2.0 TDI PD 100-125kW

This engine was made to replace the older higher-powered versions of the 1.9 TDI. It is the first double overhead camshaft (DOHC) four-cylinder TDI (Turbocharged Direct Injection) engine made by Volkswagen Group. There will be an even more powerful version of this engine for new Audi TT TDI.
Configuration inline four cylinder 1,968 cubic centimetres (120.1 cu in) Turbocharged Direct Injection (TDI) Head four valves per cylinder, DOHC, compression ratio 18.5:1 two valves per cylinder, SOHC version, developed for VW Passat B5 GP (last editions) and continued in B6 MY'06 with particle filter Fuel system Pumpe Düse (PD) Unit Injector multi-point direct injection (DI), piezo actuators valve, pressure up to 2200 bar Aspiration switched induction manifold for turbulence control, turbocharger, intercooler Engine management Bosch EDC 16 / Siemens VDO SIMOS PPD1 Exhaust diesel particulate filter (DPF)
 
Can you get performance kits fitted on the 1.9tdi?

if so does anyone know rough costs etc...

thanks for the responses
 
If you mean hybrid turbos,water/methanol kits,propane injection kit,forged rods and pistons, uprated injectors etc then yes.
 
lol very helpful posts!

Most people just get remaps and panel filters or alike...but in my eyes id get a 2.0 140, remap it and then leave it alone

1.9's are slow compared
 
Mikey, OT, but you got a log of boost levels you could email me mate, just out of curiosity please.

thanks.
 
My car boosts higher then vagcom will read so a lot of it just reads max pressure. Will surch though my computers to see if i have anything useful though if you want. Car is in bits at the moment so cannot take any logs for you.
 
My car boosts higher then vagcom will read so a lot of it just reads max pressure. Will surch though my computers to see if i have anything useful though if you want. Car is in bits at the moment so cannot take any logs for you.

Hey anything would help mate as turbodynamics say my new turbo is max 1.8bar but vagcom is showing actuals of 2.488bar on a thrashing with pedal at 100% & this is without my custom map yet, so slightly worries me & these were the kind of readings I was getting & overboost errors with limp on stock turbo which blew
 
Well thats an interesting post to say the least, not even RT advised me of this, cheers mate, will ask RT if they concur, not I disbelieve you but I want to be sure given what I've been doing lately with car & the custom map going on.

I think you're actually spot on after reading this, which would mean I would be getting about 1.5bar on my new turbo atm with toe to floor which is ok :

http://audiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61283

Channel 115: Requested Boost and Actual Boost
This is a very helpful channel for diagnosing boost leaks, trying to figure out why your car went into limp mode, and seeing if the software or hardware (electronic or manual boost controllers) are doing what they should be. This channel displays the boost requested by the computer (requested boost) in the first column and the boost actually made by the turbo (actual boost) in the second column. The readings you will see here can be misleading. First, you should know that the numbers you will see are not yet corrected for atmospheric pressure (about 1040mbar at sea level). The atmospheric pressure seen at the boost sensor is tough to estimate with complete precision, but I have found that subtracting 1000mbar from the numbers gets you close enough to actual boost unless you are living at 20,000 feet above sea level. The next thing you have probably noticed about these numbers are that they are displayed in mbar instead of psi like we are all used to. Well, this won‼sup>TM</sup>t be a problem thanks to the metric system. 1000mbar = 1 bar and 1 bar = 14.5psi. There you have it.
So, can we all figure out what boost level in psi this car is requesting and making at 3000rpm?
RPM Requested Boost Actual Boost
2500……2100…..1800
2750……2200……1950
3000……2200……2250
3250……2200……2200
3500……2200……2100
The correct answer is…
The computer is requesting 1.2 bar of boost at 3000rpm. This can also be expressed as 17.4psi.
The turbo is boosting 1.25 bar of boost at 3000rpm. This can also be expressed as 18.1psi.
So why are the above numbers important to us other than acting as a boost guage to entertain us? Well, as you can imagine, if you had a boost leak you would have a car that is requesting the correct boost but you would see very little in the actual boost column. In the case that you had just installed your new little boost controller or N75 valve you could do some logging to find that your actual boost was far exceeding your computers' requested boost numbers causing your car to go into limp mode due to it's sensing an "overboost” condition. For those of us who dare to run a turbo that was not designed specifically for the software they are using, this is a great way to see why it is not working out for you. For example, the boost maps on a K03 will show the ECU requesting max boost at around 3000rpms (this is a small turbo that makes its boost low in the rpm range). Now if you were to throw on a Garrett gt28r or T28 turbo or even larger you would see that the computer will still request the max boost at 3000rpm, but the turbo is not capable of making it�TMs max boost until closer to 3800rpm leaving you with an �oeunderboost” condition.
NOTE: The sensor will only measure up to 2540mbar including atmospheric pressure. This means that if you are running more than 1.5bar or 21.75psi of boost this sensor will not measure beyond it. Both values will show maxed out at 2540mbar
 
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To get an accurate reading, check the actual atmospheric pressure in block 113 (petrol, or 10 for diesel) and subtract that from the actual value.

That is how it is done on the liquid gauge, see below for a plot of the requested boost and actual boost on my 1.8T.

boost%202.jpg
 
Thanks for all your help, most appreciated as you & someone else I know has confirmed the info is correct so kudos mate.

You not got a unit for the 8P as yet mate?
 
Nice, perfect really for anyone running higher boosts & uprated turbos etc to keep an eye on systems whilst driving, I use vagcom & it really is the best tool for coding & diag, but you cant run it 24/7 realistically whilst driving as cant watch the levels constantly, so this is an idea for me I think.

Questions, does it remember the last screen you were on when car stopped & ignition of as I'd only want to see Boost 99% time so wouldnt wanna everytime when in car keep setting to boost screen, also is it possible to have this unit with a video out option to plug into the video in of the rns-e, does it have an on/off switch as I would like to maybe add a 2nd odb2 port & just switch the unit of when using vagcom so no need to unplug it all the time, can you supply it without a vent unit as I use TT vents from the mk2 so would take insides out of this & fit, the 8P isnt on your site yet, maybe you can add the info & manual.

I like it tbh, very well made & sometime back I was skeptical but I now see the market for it & its very good idea, kudos mate.
 
Hi,

It turns off automatically after ignition off, as it checks the revs every few seconds when a gauge is showing, if the revs go to zero it turns its self off. Any movement of the joystick will turn the unit back on and take you to the gauge you were previouly in.

There are a few exceptions such as the dyno plot and 0 to 60mph plot, which you may want to gaze at for a while. The unit also turns its self off after 1 minute when it is in one of the main menu if nothing is selected.

As for video out, it is absolutely not possible without a major redesign so is a non starter.

On/Off, yes, if the joystick is held up for 1 second in the main menu the the unit turns off. No problem to have it and vag com plugged in at the same time (with a split connectr) but they can not work simultaneously.

Most people buy the kit and fit it to their own vent as it is failrly easy to do, there is an instruction manual on the web site for that.

I am still doing final testing on the new software for the 8P, I am driving with it for about 2 hours a day this week, testing, looking for bugs etc, but all well and good it will go up on the web site in a few days as all is looking good.
 
I'll keep an eye on this one for sure.
 
have u not thought about going down a few years and getting a good example of the 8l chassis 1.9tdi 130 6 speed? same as mine, i no they only make the 1.9 on the newer model in a 110.
 
2.0 TDI is soooo much better than the 1.9TDI. Insurance isnt that much different really.
 
hi all,

i found that the insurance and tax on my 2.0tdi is actualy a slight bit cheaper than on my mates 1.9tdi.
 
I have the 1.9 Tdi mate. Remaped with a K&N pannel filter.

Being a five speed it keeps up with my mates 2.0 Tdi every time.

It IS cheaper to insure, tax and buy. Remap about £300-£400, filter about £40.

2.0 Tdi's in excess of at least 1-2k more to buy!

Hope this helps.
 
I have the 1.9 Tdi mate. Remaped with a K&N pannel filter.

Being a five speed it keeps up with my mates 2.0 Tdi every time.

It IS cheaper to insure, tax and buy. Remap about £300-£400, filter about £40.

2.0 Tdi's in excess of at least 1-2k more to buy!

Hope this helps.

:iagree: and I've done the same (ST3 and K&N).