Key won't start car. Key won't fully turn in iginition.

[dk1234]

Hi, I have an issue that I hoping that this kind community could advise on. Yesterday, after leaving work I went to start my car (Audi A3 8P) and the key wouldn't turn in the ignition to start the car up. This is the first time that this has happened. I've had to leave the car in the carpark until Monday as it's locked over the weekend, so I'm trying to research if there's anything I can do myself.

I've had a look at some YouTube videos, where the steering wheel lock was the issue and wiggiling the steering wheel while turning the key resolved the issue. Unfortunetly I'm having no such luck. I have had the steering wheel lock come on previously years ago, but that was a one off, where wiggling the steering wheel worked. I've had no issues turning the key previously. I did notice that my car was starting to take a little longer to turn over but assumed that's due to the colder weather.

The key twists a tiny amount when I put it in, but seems to be jammed turning further, when turning the key, the car radio barely comes on, as in it comes on and turns off, that may be beacuse I'm rocking the key back and forth (I can't remember fully). I had some WD-40 Silcone spray that I used the red straw that comes with it to spray into the key barrel, and on the key as I seen that in another video.

Also my steering wheel seems to move slightly with force (maybe about 3cm down/up) but it didn't feel like the wheels were moving, when pulling down or up it's like I was forcing the sterring wheel but it was moving. If the streering wheel lock was on would there be any play or not? as in, would it move?

Also, I'm trying to get my head around the part names, is the first part of the ignition, where the key inserts called the "iginition switch"? I seen the video where people take that out when they twist the key to line up with a pin hole to remove that part, using a paper clip. The videos I seen don't show it fully but I see the description. I'm not sure if my key will twist that far or not. But if it does do you think it's something I should check?

Any advice or troubleshooting tips appreciated.

 

[kudi009]

Hi mate, I suffered a similar-sounding problem shortly after buying my A3.
I could turn the key enough to release the steering wheel lock, but not far enough to start the car.
From what I gather, the ignition barrel (the bit you stick your key into) has an anti-theft device consisting of a steel rod which snaps into a locking position if a "brute force" attack is attempted.
With older cars this can happen due to normal wear, vibrations etc, such that the anti-theft rod inadvertently snaps into place...
For me, I stripped the steering column and replaced the faulty ignition barrel, keeping the existing key fob transponder.
If you wan to go down this route I'd be happy to help with parts / expertise.

 

[dk1234]

Cheers, for your reply.

I'm not sure if my steering wheel lock is engaged or not, I can force move it 2-3 cm's up down, but on relaese it goes back to start position. My wheels are facing straight ahead and didn't turn, as far as I noticed when I was trying to move the steering wheel.

It sounds like what you did with replacing the faulty ignition barrel might be the next best step I could attempt. When you say you could use the existing key fob transponder, does that mean that you were able to use the same key to start the car and open the doors as you had done before replacing the barrel?

I'd appreciate your assistance, is there any extra details you need? I have an 58/2009 A3.

 

[kudi009]

It sounds like what you did with replacing the faulty ignition barrel might be the next best step I could attempt. When you say you could use the existing key fob transponder, does that mean that you were able to use the same key to start the car and open the doors as you had done before replacing the barrel?

I'd appreciate your assistance, is there any extra details you need? I have an 58/2009 A3.

Yeah, the black plastic ring that's visible with the steering column assembled contains a transponder which reads the code from the fob and sends it to the immobiliser. You can just take this off the broken ignition barrel and put it onto the new one, and your existing fob will work.

To take this off the existing one you'll need to fully turn the key, but you can do this when the ignition barrel is out of the car. I just put it on the table & hammered at it while turning the key and eventually something moves and you can turn it all the way.

Once you turn the key to the "on" position, a little hole in the transponder will line up. You need to poke something thin and long down in there to press on a release latch for the transponder. This is really fiddly and took me a while. Use lots of WD40. The transponder should come off without any force needed.

To take the steering wheel off you'll need a large spline bit, I can't recall the size - I'd just get a set of them like this Amazon product
View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spline-Socket-Square-Triple-Silver/dp/B08DLJDXJ5/
It's a fiddly job because of the """security""" measures Audi use, especially the shear bolts which connect the ignition barrel to the column. You have to use a hammer and flathead to loosen them.
There is a fair amount of videos / posts for general instruction, I mostly followed the Haynes manual.
This is the part I used, check the compatibility table: https://justgermanparts.co.uk/produ...switch-housing-vw-audi-seat-skoda-1k0905851b/

 

[dk1234]

Yeah, the black plastic ring that's visible with the steering column assembled contains a transponder which reads the code from the fob and sends it to the immobiliser. You can just take this off the broken ignition barrel and put it onto the new one, and your existing fob will work.

To take this off the existing one you'll need to fully turn the key, but you can do this when the ignition barrel is out of the car. I just put it on the table & hammered at it while turning the key and eventually something moves and you can turn it all the way.

Once you turn the key to the "on" position, a little hole in the transponder will line up. You need to poke something thin and long down in there to press on a release latch for the transponder. This is really fiddly and took me a while. Use lots of WD40. The transponder should come off without any force needed.

To take the steering wheel off you'll need a large spline bit, I can't recall the size - I'd just get a set of them like this Amazon product
View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spline-Socket-Square-Triple-Silver/dp/B08DLJDXJ5/
It's a fiddly job because of the """security""" measures Audi use, especially the shear bolts which connect the ignition barrel to the column. You have to use a hammer and flathead to loosen them.
There is a fair amount of videos / posts for general instruction, I mostly followed the Haynes manual.
This is the part I used, check the compatibility table: https://justgermanparts.co.uk/produ...switch-housing-vw-audi-seat-skoda-1k0905851b/

Thanks, it looks like quite an in depth job. If only this happened at home instead of at work, I happened to park in the busier car park at the front. My cars in the middle with car parking spaces either side, so there will be cars parked next to me.

I found this video that seems similar to what you describe, the only difference is that the key is stuck in the barrel and it looks like he can turn his steering wheel freely. My steering wheel is pretty much in the straght position so hopefully I should be able to access everything. The airbag going off is a worry, don't want to get whiplash now lol.

I've ordered the tool set you linked, so I'm considering giving it ago. Do you have any ideas how much a mobile mechanic might charge for such a job.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LR15hPYc3Cw&t=201s

 

[kudi009]

That's a pain that it's at work. Probably can't even get it transported home because you've got no steering.
Make sure the battery is disconnected and the airbag can't go off. Sit in the passenger seat to disconnect it if you like.
I also used that video as reference. I tried with a drill but couldn't get it straight on top of the bolts because of the dash bubble.
A professional might charge for a good few hours of labour, like I say it's a fiddly job to get it off, and then they've got to fiddle with the old barrel to get the transponder off which can take another few hours. If they've done it before you might be alright, maybe ring around car locksmiths.
Depending on where you are there are a few users on this forum who do a spot of work too.

 

[dk1234]

Yeah, trust me! if only, it could have happened when I had the car at home. Okay, so if the battery is disconnected the air-bag can't go off? I'll take off one of the connections. Good idea about the locksmiths and if there's any forum users up for a spot of work. My car's in Enfield if anybody is interested, who can help? let me know a rough price and we can take it from there.

 

[dk1234]

I have a VCDS and laptop I could dig out to take to work, will the VCDS tell me anything useful? I know it won't work if the key doesn't go to the "on" position, which I not sure if it does or not.

Or thinking about it, it likely doesn't matter what the VCDS say's it's probably going to be the same resolution, taking out / replacing the barrel cylinder.

I saw a video on another car where the guy hammered the key in, I dont think that would work? would it?lol

 

[kudi009]

Yeah I don't see how VCDS would be useful.
You might be able to turn it with some hammering but it'll only be a matter of time before it goes again, and I've heard of it locking in the ON position, meaning you can't turn your car off and can't remove the key from the barrel!

 

[dk1234]

A quick question if any body knows. If I disconnected my battery and took my steering wheel off, would I be able to lock my car? Could I reconnect the battery with the steering wheel off? To lock the car or would the alarm l, etc go off?

 

[dk1234]

Hi, I called around a few locksmiths/mobile mechanics, only got through to two. One said if I could take the barrel out I could bring it down to them, as their mobile person is busy for the next few days but they said I could send him a whatsapp message describing my problem to see if/when he could fit me in. Another said it sounded like I need a replacement lock barrel and to buy the part and then arrange for him to come out.

I called Audi parts and told them the issue and asked how much replacement ignition would cost. The person on the phone told me the part is called "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" and cost £259.08. I asked for the part number which he gave to me as 107905855CF, as he gave to me he mentioned that it would need to be coded to the chassis number? I asked a few more questions about is this part also referred to as a "replacement lock unit", he said there's only one main part that needs to be changed so it should be the part.

I asked him how much the coding would cost, he wasn't sure and went to check, when he came back he said that he spoke to a mechanic who said that when you can't turn the key you have to cut the steering lock out of the cylinder.

I writ down some notes as he was talking so not too sure if I got everything right, but he said 2 parts required then I noted down underneath steering lock, cylinder and 2 bolts. I then also think that he said the "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" wouldn't need to be coded. I tried to clarify that and it sounded like he said again it didn't need coded.

What's your thought's as i had different part numbers mentioned such as 1K0905841 for an replacement lock?

 

[kudi009]

A quick question if any body knows. If I disconnected my battery and took my steering wheel off, would I be able to lock my car? Could I reconnect the battery with the steering wheel off? To lock the car or would the alarm l, etc go off?

Lock the car with central locking, unlock the drivers door with the key, disconnect the battery, lock the drivers door with the key. If you disconnect the battery with central locking, the alarm will go off.

Hi, I called around a few locksmiths/mobile mechanics, only got through to two. One said if I could take the barrel out I could bring it down to them, as their mobile person is busy for the next few days but they said I could send him a whatsapp message describing my problem to see if/when he could fit me in. Another said it sounded like I need a replacement lock barrel and to buy the part and then arrange for him to come out.

I called Audi parts and told them the issue and asked how much replacement ignition would cost. The person on the phone told me the part is called "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" and cost £259.08. I asked for the part number which he gave to me as 107905855CF, as he gave to me he mentioned that it would need to be coded to the chassis number? I asked a few more questions about is this part also referred to as a "replacement lock unit", he said there's only one main part that needs to be changed so it should be the part.

I asked him how much the coding would cost, he wasn't sure and went to check, when he came back he said that he spoke to a mechanic who said that when you can't turn the key you have to cut the steering lock out of the cylinder.

I writ down some notes as he was talking so not too sure if I got everything right, but he said 2 parts required then I noted down underneath steering lock, cylinder and 2 bolts. I then also think that he said the "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" wouldn't need to be coded. I tried to clarify that and it sounded like he said again it didn't need coded.

What's your thought's as i had different part numbers mentioned such as 1K0905841 for an replacement lock?

107905855CF: Key fob transponder which I mentioned you'll need to take off the old one and put on the new one. As long as you do this you won't need to do any coding.
1K0905841: The ignition barrel itself. This is the same as the part I posted, Google it and you'll see there's one part with multiple numbers.
The 'two bolts' are the shear bolts I mentioned. They are just metric bolts with a """security""" head instead of hex. I just replaced them with regular hex bolts of the same type (I can't recall the metric size)

 

[kudi009]

he said that he spoke to a mechanic who said that when you can't turn the key you have to cut the steering lock out of the cylinder.

Just thinking on this point more and he's probably right. On the top of the ignition barrel is a block of metal which pops up into the steering column when the lock is engaged.
When the lock is disengaged, after disassembling the steering column the ignition barrel slides off a metal rack towards you.
If this is engaged, which it is judging by your description of little steering wheel movement / no key turn movement, you'll be unable to slide the ignition barrel off the rack.
On the outside of the ignition barrel is a little black circle plate, which retains some spring mechanisms, I'll be honest I'm not sure exactly which ones.
I believe it's possible (and this might be what your mechanic meant) to drill through the black circle plate to break / remove the springs and release the steering lock / turn the key, allowing you to remove the barrel.
I could be wrong here, just wanted to set your expectations if you're going to take this on yourself

 

[dk1234]

Just thinking on this point more and he's probably right. On the top of the ignition barrel is a block of metal which pops up into the steering column when the lock is engaged.
When the lock is disengaged, after disassembling the steering column the ignition barrel slides off a metal rack towards you.
If this is engaged, which it is judging by your description of little steering wheel movement / no key turn movement, you'll be unable to slide the ignition barrel off the rack.
On the outside of the ignition barrel is a little black circle plate, which retains some spring mechanisms, I'll be honest I'm not sure exactly which ones.
I believe it's possible (and this might be what your mechanic meant) to drill through the black circle plate to break / remove the springs and release the steering lock / turn the key, allowing you to remove the barrel.
I could be wrong here, just wanted to set your expectations if you're going to take this on yourself

Okay, thanks for the clarification of the part numbers and your other advice. I attached some pictures.

The first of the Transponder 107905855CF.

The second picture of the ignition barrel, 1K0905841 (screen shot from your link, I think) where I've circled the "block of metal" that goes into the steering lock, just to confirm we're talking about the same part really. In the picture "block of metal" is in the unlocked position.

The third picture, I found off Google showing the back side of a barrel.

drill through the black circle plate to break / remove the springs and release the steering lock

I was wondering if you're talking about black circle I've circled?

Also, I take it that the current barrel in my car 1K0905841 can be damaged, drilled on removal if I'm replacing it with another barrel. As long as the Transponder, 107905855CF doesn't get damaged, as I would need to put the transponder onto the new barrel, to be able to use the same keys.

I think what I need to do is make a list of all the tools I would need to do the job as I have tools at home I would need to bring into work. I received the Amazon Spline kit you mentioned. In the first video I linked he used an T27 but I think that was because he didn't have the spine fittings.

T27 for Airbags, bolts by paddles, hopefully I can access with my steering wheel being straight.
T55 with a breaker bar to take the steering wheel off. would I need a breaker bar?
T25 Under the steering column, 1 bolt.
T20 to remove the 2 bolts under the steering wheel.
T27 Steering lock column plastic, to take of 2 screws. (keeps screws together with bit that comes out) then pull back.
T8 screw, then remove airbag connector.

To take off the shear bolts, in the video the guy used some drill bits and then a screw extractor piece ( I don't have this ). He used a hole punch/marker thing to mark the hole and then used 2 drill bits, first "three thirty second's) Second one he said was "seven sixty four" not sure what size that is in UK? should be able to convert somewhere. He used a adjustable spanner with the extractor piece, and then pliers to remove from the screw.

I have a Dremel but I don't have any cutting blades, not sure if I would need to get a certain size to get to the shear bolts? any ideas? if I went that route?

That's most of the steps to release ignition barrel. If I attempt this on my lunch breaks I could do it in parts if I can re lock my car. Which it looks like I should be able too. Kudi009, you've been a great help. Thank you.

​

 

[kudi009]

The first of the Transponder 107905855CF.

Correct

The second picture of the ignition barrel, 1K0905841 (screen shot from your link, I think) where I've circled the "block of metal" that goes into the steering lock, just to confirm we're talking about the same part really. In the picture "block of metal" is in the unlocked position.

Correct

The third picture, I found off Google showing the back side of a barrel.

I was wondering if you're talking about black circle I've circled?

The black circle I'm talking about is on the front-facing side of the ignition barrel. The bit you've circled is the key position sensor (tells the ECU if key is in the off, on, ignition position).

Also, I take it that the current barrel in my car 1K0905841 can be damaged, drilled on removal if I'm replacing it with another barrel. As long as the Transponder, 107905855CF doesn't get damaged, as I would need to put the transponder onto the new barrel, to be able to use the same keys.

Correct

I think what I need to do is make a list of all the tools I would need to do the job as I have tools at home I would need to bring into work. I received the Amazon Spline kit you mentioned. In the first video I linked he used an T27 but I think that was because he didn't have the spine fittings.

T27 for Airbags, bolts by paddles, hopefully I can access with my steering wheel being straight.
T55 with a breaker bar to take the steering wheel off. would I need a breaker bar?
T25 Under the steering column, 1 bolt.
T20 to remove the 2 bolts under the steering wheel.
T27 Steering lock column plastic, to take of 2 screws. (keeps screws together with bit that comes out) then pull back.
T8 screw, then remove airbag connector.

Unfortunately I can't remember all of the sockets / sizes since I did it, but I think this will get you most of the way:
- Torx set
- Hex set
- Spline set
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench (spec is 50Nm)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Philips screwdriver
- Hammer
- Small flathead screwdriver (jewellers screwdriver set) to release clips / tabs

To take off the shear bolts, in the video the guy used some drill bits and then a screw extractor piece ( I don't have this ). He used a hole punch/marker thing to mark the hole and then used 2 drill bits, first "three thirty second's) Second one he said was "seven sixty four" not sure what size that is in UK? should be able to convert somewhere. He used a adjustable spanner with the extractor piece, and then pliers to remove from the screw.

I have a Dremel but I don't have any cutting blades, not sure if I would need to get a certain size to get to the shear bolts? any ideas? if I went that route?

I tried with a drill but couldn't get a good angle.
I would use a long flathead screwdriver & hammer, and hammer at the shear bolt to turn it counter clockwise. You can get a good angle through the plastic protective cover. They are not torqued very high at all.

That's most of the steps to release ignition barrel. If I attempt this on my lunch breaks I could do it in parts if I can re lock my car. Which it looks like I should be able too. Kudi009, you've been a great help. Thank you.

I'm rooting for you mate. It was a pain when I did it at home and without steering lock enabled, you've got an even bigger headache!

 

[dk1234]

While I'm fresh off the call. I called a different Audi, said I was having an issue with my key not turning and the steering wheel not turning. They advised the same part as the other person after putting my reg in "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" for £259.08. I said "I wanted to get the barrel, the lock goes into", after a bit of back and forth, as he was saying I need the "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" if I'm having problems with turning the key. I gave him the part number "1K0905841", that I said I believe is the barrel. He said "no sir, that's the steering lock" I asked how much is that part, he said £163.73. 2 days to order the steering lock, about 2 weeks to order the "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" from Germany and have coded to chassis. As far as I've picked up is as long as the 107905855CF is not damaged I can fit onto new barrel.

Do they refer to barrel part as steering lock? I would call the image attached to this post the "barrel part", but it seems he was saying that it was the steering lock, after he entered the part number 1K0905841, I gave to him.

At the 2.04 mark is that the "black circle" you were talking about? I've also attached a picture below and circled the bit in blue.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adytI-G2dAQ

 

[kudi009]

While I'm fresh off the call. I called a different Audi, said I was having an issue with my key not turning and the steering wheel not turning. They advised the same part as the other person after putting my reg in "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" for £259.08. I said "I wanted to get the barrel, the lock goes into", after a bit of back and forth, as he was saying I need the "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" if I'm having problems with turning the key. I gave him the part number "1K0905841", that I said I believe is the barrel. He said "no sir, that's the steering lock" I asked how much is that part, he said £163.73. 2 days to order the steering lock, about 2 weeks to order the "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" from Germany and have coded to chassis. As far as I've picked up is as long as the 107905855CF is not damaged I can fit onto new barrel.

Do they refer to barrel part as steering lock? I would call the image attached to this post the "barrel part", but it seems he was saying that it was the steering lock, after he entered the part number 1K0905841, I gave to him.

I've got no idea what he means. There is no separate steering lock part. Maybe getting confused with the transponder again, which would require coding if you brought it new.

At the 2.04 mark is that the "black circle" you were talking about? I've also attached a picture below and circled the bit in blue.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adytI-G2dAQ

That's exactly it

 

[dk1234]

Unfortunately I can't remember all of the sockets / sizes since I did it, but I think this will get you most of the way:
- Torx set
- Hex set
- Spline set
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench (spec is 50Nm)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Philips screwdriver
- Hammer
- Small flathead screwdriver (jewellers screwdriver set) to release clips / tabs


I tried with a drill but couldn't get a good angle.
I would use a long flathead screwdriver & hammer, and hammer at the shear bolt to turn it counter clockwise. You can get a good angle through the plastic protective cover. They are not torqued very high at all.

I'm rooting for you mate. It was a pain when I did it at home and without steering lock enabled, you've got an even bigger headache!

I've dug out some of my tools. I have an older Halfolds Advanced Toolkit, so I have most of the Torx screw fitting that were mentioned. I don't have the Torx 8, so either need to find a tiny flat head screw driver that could fit or buy one.

Hex set, is that referring to allen keys? I have a set of those in the Halfolds Advanced Toolkit I have. I do have another small kit that has four 840/4 Z Hex Plus fittings 3.0x89 through to 6.0x89.

My breaker bar is 1/2 inch and my Torx screws (well mainly the Torx 55) are 3/8 Inch. Question, will I need the beaker bar, or could I use the ratchet's I have? I have a 3/8 Ratchet, also have a 1/4 and 1/2.

I also wanted to double check what the Torque wrench (50Nm spec) is for, is that for use when putting back in the Torx 55 screw back in the steering column? to make sure that is torqued correctly or are there other parts that need to be torgued correctly? I don't have a torque wrench but could look to pick one up if needed. I take it, I'll probbaly be better of withan 3/8 inch one, as most of my fittings are around that size.

For the ignition barrel, there's two part numbers I've seen mentioned, I think the one that you used 1K0905851B. On the desciption it says it fits A3 8P [2004-2009] which my car falls under. Then I see 1K0905841 mentioned for the ignition barrel. I know you mentioned that there are others with different numbers but I'm just wondering if these are interchangable or if I need to get the correct one for my car.

One thing I was considering, was to start taking off the steering wheel, surround housing and the airbag/steering wheel unit attached to the ignition barrel unit. I think on one of the many videos I watched I could see the part number on the igniotion barrel when they got to that stage. With the steering wheel lock block being up/locked it might not come off, if not I could take my drill to work the next day to hopefully be able to drill the black circle area to release the ignition barrel. One issue is I would have to probably wait a few days for the parts and leave the parts off until the ignition barrel can be replaced.

Apologies for the million and one questions, just trying to get my head around everything.

 

[kudi009]

I've dug out some of my tools. I have an older Halfolds Advanced Toolkit, so I have most of the Torx screw fitting that were mentioned. I don't have the Torx 8, so either need to find a tiny flat head screw driver that could fit or buy one.

I'd get a precision torx set too, there are a few tiny torx screws holding the wiper / indicator arms in place

Hex set, is that referring to allen keys? I have a set of those in the Halfolds Advanced Toolkit I have. I do have another small kit that has four 840/4 Z Hex Plus fittings 3.0x89 through to 6.0x89.

Allen keys should do, yep

My breaker bar is 1/2 inch and my Torx screws (well mainly the Torx 55) are 3/8 Inch. Question, will I need the beaker bar, or could I use the ratchet's I have? I have a 3/8 Ratchet, also have a 1/4 and 1/2.

It's maybe do-able with your 3/8" ratchet but it's very stiff. You could also get a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter for your bar

I also wanted to double check what the Torque wrench (50Nm spec) is for, is that for use when putting back in the Torx 55 screw back in the steering column? to make sure that is torqued correctly or are there other parts that need to be torgued correctly? I don't have a torque wrench but could look to pick one up if needed. I take it, I'll probbaly be better of withan 3/8 inch one, as most of my fittings are around that size.

You'll need the torque wrench to put back the steering wheel nut which is a spline nut not torx, they look similar but torx can strip it. A 3/8" torque wrench or a 1/2" torque wrench should be OK for this, they'll both do 50nm.

For the ignition barrel, there's two part numbers I've seen mentioned, I think the one that you used 1K0905851B. On the desciption it says it fits A3 8P [2004-2009] which my car falls under. Then I see 1K0905841 mentioned for the ignition barrel. I know you mentioned that there are others with different numbers but I'm just wondering if these are interchangable or if I need to get the correct one for my car.

They are interchangeable

One thing I was considering, was to start taking off the steering wheel, surround housing and the airbag/steering wheel unit attached to the ignition barrel unit. I think on one of the many videos I watched I could see the part number on the igniotion barrel when they got to that stage. With the steering wheel lock block being up/locked it might not come off, if not I could take my drill to work the next day to hopefully be able to drill the black circle area to release the ignition barrel. One issue is I would have to probably wait a few days for the parts and leave the parts off until the ignition barrel can be replaced.

Yep not a bad idea

 

[dk1234]

I'd get a precision torx set too, there are a few tiny torx screws holding the wiper / indicator arms in place

Allen keys should do, yep

It's maybe do-able with your 3/8" ratchet but it's very stiff. You could also get a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter for your bar

You'll need the torque wrench to put back the steering wheel nut which is a spline nut not torx, they look similar but torx can strip it. A 3/8" torque wrench or a 1/2" torque wrench should be OK for this, they'll both do 50nm.

They are interchangeable

Yep not a bad idea

Thanks again! I'm sure I probably have a precision set somewhere at home, that I will find one day when I don't need it lol. I got to the part where I needed the T8, so had to stop there. I see a sticker on the "key position sensor" aka "the black circle" on the left hand side, whilst the barrel and the unit underneath is still attached. The "key position sensor" aka "the black circle" had a sticker on it with
VW AG
CZ K03 04 1535 00
1KO 905 865
08/07/20/R.

I'll upload a picture from my phone in the next post. I think this is probably for the "key position sensor" aka "the black circle".

 

[dk1234]

Oh, I forgot to mention that I didn't need the breaker bar for the steering wheel spline. The ratchet worked fine.

 

[kudi009]

Oh, I forgot to mention that I didn't need the breaker bar for the steering wheel spline. The ratchet worked fine.

Good job. That part number is for the key position sensor or "ignition starter switch" as it's called here: https://justgermanparts.co.uk/produ...starter-switch-vw-audi-seat-skoda-1k0905849b/
If you order the ignition barrel from the link I sent previously, it comes with a new one of them pre-installed.
And just to be double clear, you shouldn't drill through that! The "black circle" you can drill through is small and made of metal, as you identified in one of your previous posts.

 

[dk1234]

Good job. That part number is for the key position sensor or "ignition starter switch" as it's called here: https://justgermanparts.co.uk/produ...starter-switch-vw-audi-seat-skoda-1k0905849b/
If you order the ignition barrel from the link I sent previously, it comes with a new one of them pre-installed.
And just to be double clear, you shouldn't drill through that! The "black circle" you can drill through is small and made of metal, as you identified in one of your previous posts.

Thanks, It seems I'm making some progress lol. I've just been looking at torgue wreches, probably an 3/8 one. Reading reviews it seems some are hit or miss. I actually need to find the Torx 8 screwdriver, I'm not sure where I've put an old set that I think might have that fitting. If I can't find it tonight I'll buy a Torx precision set tomorrow. It looks like the company you linked offer next day delivery if you order before 2pm. So, I'm going to try to take the other parts off around lunch time, if I have a T8, to see if I can see the part number, I know you said they're interchangable but I'll think I'll just feel a little better, if I can get the same part number lol.

 

[dk1234]

Good job. That part number is for the key position sensor or "ignition starter switch" as it's called here: https://justgermanparts.co.uk/produ...starter-switch-vw-audi-seat-skoda-1k0905849b/
If you order the ignition barrel from the link I sent previously, it comes with a new one of them pre-installed.
And just to be double clear, you shouldn't drill through that! The "black circle" you can drill through is small and made of metal, as you identified in one of your previous posts.

After dismantling it was indeed, the part number you linked to first of all. 1K0905851. Ordered yesterday, and it's due to arrive this afternoon. Torque wrench should also be delivered to a nearby collect point.

I'm having difficulty removing the left side shear bolt, I've got the right side one loose but can't get a good angle on the left side shear bolt. I have a chisel but, it's way too big, practically the size of the hole where you go through to the shear bolt. To do the right side shear bolt, I went through the front with a small screw driver, that was able to grip it.

Is it just a case of getting a smaller chisel? and do you do it from the top for the left side? I have a small screwdriver that can go in the front slot but the "stick" is not long enough as the handle hits the front casing, where the indicator used to be.

 

[kudi009]

After dismantling it was indeed, the part number you linked to first of all. 1K0905851. Ordered yesterday, and it's due to arrive this afternoon. Torque wrench should also be delivered to a nearby collect point.

I'm having difficulty removing the left side shear bolt, I've got the right side one loose but can't get a good angle on the left side shear bolt. I have a chisel but, it's way too big, practically the size of the hole where you go through to the shear bolt. To do the right side shear bolt, I went through the front with a small screw driver, that was able to grip it.

Is it just a case of getting a smaller chisel? and do you do it from the top for the left side? I have a small screwdriver that can go in the front slot but the "stick" is not long enough as the handle hits the front casing, where the indicator used to be.

Great news, well done mate. For both of them I just used a long flathead screwdriver, an old B&Q one like this https://www.diy.com/departments/mag...iver-sl-5-5mm-x-150mm/1782622_BQ.prd?alt=true

Can't remember which angle I came at it from, but any angle where you can get some purchase on the head of the bolt should work out, eventually..

 

[dk1234]

Great news, well done mate. For both of them I just used a long flathead screwdriver, an old B&Q one like this https://www.diy.com/departments/mag...iver-sl-5-5mm-x-150mm/1782622_BQ.prd?alt=true

Can't remember which angle I came at it from, but any angle where you can get some purchase on the head of the bolt should work out, eventually..

Cheers, I tried for over an hour but no joy lol. I went to an B&Q and grabbed that screw driver along with a smaller one, as the big ones I had didn't work. The little red screw driver managed to get the right side turning, but that one has better access through the front. I'll post a couple of pictures. I used the red pick on the end to try and groove a slot into the bolt. I guess the angle is not quite there to push the bolt.

 

[kudi009]

Cheers, I tried for over an hour but no joy lol. I went to an B&Q and grabbed that screw driver along with a smaller one, as the big ones I had didn't work. The little red screw driver managed to get the right side turning, but that one has better access through the front. I'll post a couple of pictures. I used the red pick on the end to try and groove a slot into the bolt. I guess the angle is not quite there to push the bolt.

Hey, I warned you it's a fiddly job! Just be glad it's you doing it and not a mobile mechanic charging £100 per hour!
It will eventually go, it just takes a lot of perseverance.
That groove you've got will really help, though I'd try and make another one 90 degrees to the right, so that your screwdriver is facing straight from the driver's seat. This should let you get a lot more force behind the hammer without the dash / windscreen getting in the way.
Once your screwdriver is nicely seated, give it a ****** good smack. Then seat it in the groove again, and another big smack. Lots of little taps won't be effective.
Also if you can pick up some penetrating fluid that could help!

 

[dk1234]

Definitely a fiddly job! Once I get the left bolt off, I'll be half way there. The left bolt is proving a pain, I've just spent an hour and a half trying to get it off today. I think I better order some penetrating fluid. Bought some pin punch pieces, the smaller one in the pack couldn't quite grip the small groove I made on the right of the bolt.

My drill is bigger than the screwdriver you mentioned so I can't use that because of the speedo bubble / dash.

Is there any dremel bits that could be used to get down there? I have a wired one with basic accessories but I can borrow a powerbank to use it, but not too sure which sort of piece I would need. I guess I could cut a "flathead" into it if I can find a piece that could fir in the hole.

I've attached a picture of the bolts current state

 

[kudi009]

You must be almost there now..
I didn't try it myself, but if you have some mole grips you could try turning it on the underside via the bolt itself? The plastic bit might get in the way through
You may be able to get a deeper groove with a dremel, but the trouble is going to be getting a bit long enough to reach without hitting the plastic bit.
Keep on it!

 

[dk1234]

You must be almost there now..
I didn't try it myself, but if you have some mole grips you could try turning it on the underside via the bolt itself? The plastic bit might get in the way through
You may be able to get a deeper groove with a dremel, but the trouble is going to be getting a bit long enough to reach without hitting the plastic bit.
Keep on it!

Yeah, I hope I'm nearly there lol. I might see if I can get a small chisel. I might aswell pretend I'm in Prison Break, trying to cut through the wall with a toothbrush lol.

Penetrating fluid, would normal WD-40 do? As I have some at home, but if there's something better I don't mind grabbing that.

I just watched a video where the guy files the holes abit bigger with files. That might be an option. I tried to upload 2 pictures of the bolts but only 1 loaded. Uploaded a picture of the punches I tried to use through the front, as they were too big to use from the top.

 

[kudi009]

Penetrating fluid, would normal WD-40 do? As I have some at home, but if there's something better I don't mind grabbing that.

Normal WD-40 might help but I'd get some actual penetrating fluid - WD-40 do make some and it's pretty good. Check Screwfix.

I just watched a video where the guy files the holes abit bigger with files. That might be an option. I tried to upload 2 pictures of the bolts but only 1 loaded. Uploaded a picture of the punches I tried to use through the front, as they were too big to use from the top.

Give it a go... if you're really stuck it might be a case of dremelling off the plastic thing to get at the bolts, though I don't think they're a readily available part..

 

[dk1234]

Tried some penetrating fluid this morning, left it to sit for 5 minutes before trying that dreaded left bolt again. Tried for about an hour, still no luck . I've sprayed the nut again and will leave it for abit.

Somebody has a drill that might be able to fit in the space, as it's smaller than mine. I might be able to borrow it for lunch time. I grabbed a set of these extractors from Screwfix, these one's here. https://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-bolt-extractor-set-2-pieces/2951v. I haven't used this before, but I read you use a small drill bit, smaller than the extractors and than bang it in about 5 mm to 10mm deep.

I've attached pictures of the bolt in its current state.

 

[dk1234]

The drill I borrowed was too big, with shaft being 21-22cm long. Couldn't get under the bubble without a drill bit inserted. There was a small Dewalt impact driver I could borrow but it takes sockets, so I couldn't fit drill bits into it. I'm thinking of buying a right angle drill, with chuck, hopefully I would be able to use extraction tool with it, not sure if the depth would be an issue.

On a right mission!

 

[dk1234]

Quick question. What is the security bolt made of material wise? My drill bits for metal, are taking ages to make a hole. Spent about 4 hours to get around 3mm to 4mm max hole. Is there any sort of drill bit that's recommended for tackling the bolts?

Had a 1 and 1.5 drill bit snap, but pushing them down at a slight angle. Tried some scew removal bolts I borrowed but I think I didn't drill deep enough, tried the ones I bought aswell but, had the same issue. The drilling end of the ones i borrowed barley dug deeper than what ever hole I made with the drill pieces.

 

[ahtcap]

Carbide drills should do the trick

 

[dk1234]

Carbide drills should do the trick

Cheers, I grabbed a couple of drill bits from the local hardware store in the morning, after much more drilling I was able to get the nut out with screw extractors. It was a mission. Now, I've got the ignition barrel out.

Is it a case of just shaking banging the old one to hope whatever is jamming it, comes loose? so I can then twist the key in the "107905855CF: Key fob transponder" to the "pin" release position, as my key only turns about 3 mm's.

Also, I just wanted to check if I get the "107905855CF: Key fob transponder" out, when I put it in the new one, does the key have to be in the "ON" position? when inserting to the new barrel.

 

[dk1234]

Here's a look at the pesky bolt!

 

[kudi009]

Hello mate, sorry for not responding, I've been on holiday for the past week. Good to hear you finally got it off, well done!

Is it a case of just shaking banging the old one to hope whatever is jamming it, comes loose? so I can then twist the key in the "107905855CF: Key fob transponder" to the "pin" release position, as my key only turns about 3 mm's.

For me, I took it to the workbench, doused it in WD40, and just hit it with a hammer, tried jiggling the key, turned it around / upside down, jiggled it again and eventually it turned. I can't tell you exactly how I hit it but that's the rough gist. Good thing is that now it's off, you can drill into it or take an angle grinder to it if needs be.

Also, I just wanted to check if I get the "107905855CF: Key fob transponder" out, when I put it in the new one, does the key have to be in the "ON" position? when inserting to the new barrel.

You'll see on the new barrel the transponder can only slot in two ways - the correct way or 180 degrees out. If you line up the pin hole on the transponder as if it were in the 'ON' position, then rotate the locking barrel about 90 degrees counter-clockwise as if it were in the 'OFF' position (so the pin hole no longer lines up), it should clearly align with the slots in the ignition barrel.

 

[kudi009]

@dk1234 Did you manage to finish this or did you give up in the end? Can't stand a cliffhanger!