Sam_
Down under
As for mounting, most likely I'll fit it on one of the tabs from the relay box mount. I just hope those holes are 6mm else I'll have to fire up the drill...
Cheers. I asked Seb if you were coming but he wasn't sure. Yeah I pulled 31 to run in FWD before hand. The k04 on yours will do well going by todays numbers. Seb ran a 209kw on one of the runs. Mad.
Car is booked into East Coast Suspension (yo!) to have the following done:
- Front coilovers rebushed (if needed) - they've been knocking for a while which is a bit annoying since I've not had them long. I've checked almost everything and narrowed it down to them. You can feel a little play in them when it's jacked up.
- Subframe mounts fitted
- Nearside driveshaft fitted
- Solid rack mount fitted
- New tie rods + ends fitted
- Super pro front ARB bushes
- 4 wheel laser alignment
Can't wait. It should be mint after that.
To be honest, it never really made me dislike the car too much, it was still awesome to drive just now it does it it without sounding like it's going to self destruct. There's still a tiny bit of noise, but it's to be expected with it being so hard and with no rubber left. It's certainly miles better than before and the noises now don't sound bad.
Seb: Yeah you can tweak the toe by adjusting the top and bottom bars independently. He said getting rear toe of 0 is ideal on an AWD car and can't always be accomplished but because I got adjustable top and bottom that he could get it setup spot on. It does feel tons better with a proper setup. I just "winged" the rear camber before.
Next up is to fit the new horns I got (OEM) since my low tone has gone and so it sounds like an old peugeot with just the high tone. So girly. Might even try and get my bumper to fit a little better at the same time, if I need to remove it.
I'd steer clear of Gruvenparts arms to be honest. The poly arms might be better but the rose joints on mine failed in less than a month. He uses proper cheap joints, even though he says they're rated high blah blah blah. Truth is all 4 were showing signs of wear. Decent joints will be ok. Most people have experience of cheaper joints and so they say "they horrid on the road. they were out" etc.
I got some "madmax" replacement poly bush ends (just as solid, no deflection) and not looked back.
The CPT arms look good but are a bit pricier. I'd have got Dave's arms but he can't get a good deal on international shipping so got them from the states instead.
Cheers Dane, yeah I wanted to go for wide wheels so I could get wide tyres on it
now gotta figure if they fit a MK5 if so they are good as sold to meYeah those. Apparently awesome quality, and they look it.
Awesome. Did you see there's a set of RS4 front brakes and S3 rears for sale on Vwwatercooled or Ozaudi (can't remember which) for a bargain $2500? Would fill the wheels nicely.
Nice work dude.. I have started to accumulate stuff for a running gear refresh too... seems a sensible thing to do considering she has done 120k now bless...
How do you find the rose jointed stuff to live with as a road car? not that I would go for them myself but its a useful gauge of how poly's would be in comparison..
<tuffty/>
Sam check them people out USP motorsport.. they do you <1000$ parcels even when they are >1000 did the trick for my K04
USP Motorsports they have GT3071 .. 76 kits for the 8L too , hope u find it useful they cheaper then ECS too
The lights are way better now. The following clearly done the trick:
1. Park the car on a level surface, 10 to 20 feet from a wall if possible. Connect the VAG-COM as usual, with both ignition and xenons on.
2. Select control module 55 - Xenon Range.
3. Select "Basic Settings - 04" and scroll up to "Group 001". In a few seconds the first cell will change from "wait" to "set". Now scroll to "Group 002" and wait until the controller says "Learned"
It's worth doing if you've lowered the car as the adjustment might be off.
Sam, What exhaust mani you looking to use ?