S3 GTX2860R gen II build

I was thinking to save money for ignitron too, since it is reasonable priced 999€
they ask 700€ for tuning so couple hundred more and I could do it myself.
 
I have driven now nearly 700km more. Some problems occurred: Rear bushes are done. They are broken and I ordered powerflex ones to replace them.
Front suspension makes klonk noise when it has to lower fast after bump or similiar.
I hear sometimes on idle a knocking kind of noise, i cant say where it comes from but the sound is similiar what I had on car when it had busted connecting rod bearing. Noise disappears when raising RPM so it might be something else too. Might be solenoid vale too anyways have to put more time to this.

Car pulls great even with 0.5bar and calculated crank 245hp. I have tune to raise boost to 0.9bar and also bought MBC from forge.

I really like driving the car and the 4WD works great! I changed oil to haldex too.
Last week thursday car exhaust broke apart from rear. Most likely on heavy acceleration the engine moved bit more and pulled the pipe out from rear.
I bought new connecting pipe and better clamps to fix that.
Magnaflow sounds are pretty nice :) Turbo whistles some and on gear change the sound car makes is just stupid :D like a leaking football :D :D

I had to cancel dyno time since I got sick. Trying again new few weeks
 
Warsuperior said:
I have driven now nearly 700km more. Some problems occurred: Rear bushes are done. They are broken and I ordered powerflex ones to replace them.
Front suspension makes klonk noise when it has to lower fast after bump or similiar.
I hear sometimes on idle a knocking kind of noise, i cant say where it comes from but the sound is similiar what I had on car when it had busted connecting rod bearing. Noise disappears when raising RPM so it might be something else too. Might be solenoid vale too anyways have to put more time to this.

Car pulls great even with 0.5bar and calculated crank 245hp. I have tune to raise boost to 0.9bar and also bought MBC from forge.

I really like driving the car and the 4WD works great! I changed oil to haldex too.
Last week thursday car exhaust broke apart from rear. Most likely on heavy acceleration the engine moved bit more and pulled the pipe out from rear.
I bought new connecting pipe and better clamps to fix that.
Magnaflow sounds are pretty nice :) Turbo whistles some and on gear change the sound car makes is just stupid :D like a leaking football :D :D

I had to cancel dyno time since I got sick. Trying again new few weeks
Click to expand...
You used maxpeeding rods didn't you. I'm wondering how much they will take

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Were the rods rifle drilled? if not then the knocking is most likely small end rattle... pretty much all non drilled rods do this as splash lubrication from the squirters isn't enough

<tuffty/>
 
They are maxspeedingrods and I chose them since here is couple dozen cars build with those on different cars and never had any problems. They are checked and weighted before install. Rods are not rifle drilled. I checked small ends too and they fit perfect. The same rods are also sold with eagle etc. name and no problems.

I really dont think its actually coming from engine or at least bearings. Oil pressure is steady and usually when you have busted bearing you can see variations on oil pressure. Sound is not loud and you can only hear by concentrating on it so most likely Im just paranoid since I just build the engine myself in long time

I got a garage reserved for weekend so Im going to change bushes to rear(tips on tools, install etc. are welcome) and finding out where sound comes from.
Car has now 1000km break-in so Im thinking of changing to fully synthetic oil now with new filter.

Thanks for comments, they help me check better. :)

Now that I remember, I get shaking when im reversing, most likely DMF is doing that. Only happens when I reverse and lift clutch gently. Really hoping the DMF is not broken but since I have 4-paddle clutch this might be a standart thing, never driven this combo before.
 
ok I went to listen to car but the sound comes and goes, hard to say exactly where is coming from and after while of listening it might even be leaking exhaust gasket since you hear zih zih sometimes.
injectors make lots of noise so they cover most of sounds under them.
My oil cap is jumping a bit when i open it and leave it on idle, doesnt this mean problems? I dont have PCV, only oil catch can setup installed. after bit of study this is normal since its not jumping lot.
 
Pretty much put money on the small ends rattling before long if they aren't already... every car I have seen with non drilled rods has small end rattle... small ends may well have been a perfect fit when you installed them but with just splash lubrication they wear pretty quickly...

Generally only noticeable on idle or as you blip the throttle from idle...

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
Pretty much put money on the small ends rattling before long if they aren't already... every car I have seen with non drilled rods has small end rattle... small ends may well have been a perfect fit when you installed them but with just splash lubrication they wear pretty quickly...

Generally only noticeable on idle or as you blip the throttle from idle...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
hmm ok, that does not sound good so I need new rods now? I did use assembly oil that really "sticks" and should give good lubrication until start.
I havent really heard any problems with these rods before but I trust your experience more.

new rods mean breaking up whole engine again thought and that I would not want to do yet.
 
Also i have forged wössner pistons so when engine is cold they might "rock". Have to double check the noise when engine is normal temp since I cant now remember did i hear sound when engine is at normal temp.
Materials used on piston 4032-T6, 2618-T6
2618 is noted to be bit noisier cold than 4032

Not actually sure which material is used on mine K9075DA
 
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Warsuperior said:
hmm ok, that does not sound good so I need new rods now? I did use assembly oil that really "sticks" and should give good lubrication until start.
I havent really heard any problems with these rods before but I trust your experience more.

new rods mean breaking up whole engine again thought and that I would not want to do yet.
Click to expand...
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/322551766335
Or
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/263898921679

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Warsuperior said:
Also i have forged wössner pistons so when engine is cold they might "rock". Have to double check the noise when engine is normal temp since I cant now remember did i hear sound when engine is at normal temp.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't be the first build to be noisy due to Wossners. Try and get a good listen to things and narrow down the source :)
 
sound are gone when engine warms up or at least I cant hear. Sometimes i think i hear but I might be paranoid :D
New tune with 0.7bar boost is not working right. Car doesnt rev without gear over 4k and bangs a lot.
Pulls on 2nd or 3rd result into car suddenly stopping accleration near 6k rpm

I tried with starter fluid to find leaks but didnt find any yet. Something is out of place... just dont know what.
I have to build fuel pressure meter fast to check what happens on pulls.

What should I log to find why it feels like it fuel-cuts in high rpm?
 
Warsuperior said:
sound are gone when engine warms up or at least I cant hear. Sometimes i think i hear but I might be paranoid :D
New tune with 0.7bar boost is not working right. Car doesnt rev without gear over 4k and bangs a lot.
Pulls on 2nd or 3rd result into car suddenly stopping accleration near 6k rpm

I tried with starter fluid to find leaks but didnt find any yet. Something is out of place... just dont know what.
I have to build fuel pressure meter fast to check what happens on pulls.

What should I log to find why it feels like it fuel-cuts in high rpm?
Click to expand...
Why are you taking it too 6k on waste gate pressure? Stop before you break it. I really don't want to read that you have broken it and stuffed the block. You have a second car so drive that till map day.

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andrew_wright said:
Did you mess with the throttle body then?

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Click to expand...
Flash cleared adaptation. I got time for Tuner in week 41. Im working all links out. Im building fuel pressure meter and very accurate boost meter(I bought 4bar map sensor) and use arduino to log plx afr+egt
 
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**** balls. the car knocks near 6000rpm since knoc voltage is 29v!!!
I guess its an fuelling issue or my spark plugs are gone. I have brand new R8 ignition coils so I hope they are not broken.
What color should the knock sensors be? I have black and brown ones but I found below front seat green, blue etc. sensors. I installed the brown/black when I rebuild engine since I was in belief the car had those from factory but now I think I might be wrong.
 
badger5 said:
unmapped still and driving it to 6krpm.....

you like rebuilding it?
Click to expand...
Not unmapped. It has tune but not for high boost yet. Tune is for safe driving, its from a car with same specs as mine and tuner is helping me with everything I need (Thanks Marty). Final tune is done on dyno at week 40
Yeah taking it on 6k when accelerating on few pulls, not nonstop. Otherwise I drive pretty decently. I had to test if there is any problems and there is as I explain.
Car has now 1000km in and changed 5w-30 Castrol fully synthetic in.
Old oil was bit darker but nothing else to report, no metal or anything else.

I made arduino fuel pressure gauge which is pretty damn great and didnt cost much. If anyone wants, I can share code and specs. Building one costs about 50euro or less, price depends what sensor you use
My pressure was set to 3bar initially but now checked it again and on idle was 2.6-2.7bar so bit low. Raised it to 3-3.1bar(45psi) and car works ok now.
Also noticed that I must have some leak in boost system since on WOT AFR goes 10-11=too rich
Bought bungs today to block the ends of boost pipes so I can test where is possible leaks.
Have to test the N75 etc. system too

What spark plugs people are using? I have RS2/S2 ones now but also got original. Some say that I should make bigger gap for those S2 ones

I was worried of the noise on idle but when I press clutch the noise disappears=dmf broken(?)
FMIC works great. On idle when outside temp is 20c it shows IAT 33c(long time idle) and when driving drops to 23-24c even under boost.

Yesterday cv joint puked all grease out because of clamp failure. Got new clamp today and going to install tomorrow. Car is at garage.
Also the rear bushes came. The biggest bush is torn pieces. New powerflex bushes are on 2 parts so seems easy enough to install(knows wood)

Exhaust is leaking on V-bands below car so have to fix those too and on rear before mufflers connector is leaking.
 
2 leaks so far. By-passi over 0.4bar and possibly map sensor or that area. Ordered spring kit but spring are too small so there mut be newer version of 007 out there. I think I have old. Any suggestion what by-passi to get?
 
By-pass is leaking even when I push piston down so have to buy new. Oem hose from tb to map pipe has tiny holes that are impossible to see but pressure leaks. Im thinking building 60mm pipe instead of plastic map pipe. Still could use opinions about good 25mm By-pass
 
Warsuperior said:
Also i have forged wössner pistons so when engine is cold they might "rock". Have to double check the noise when engine is normal temp since I cant now remember did i hear sound when engine is at normal temp.
Materials used on piston 4032-T6, 2618-T6
2618 is noted to be bit noisier cold than 4032

Not actually sure which material is used on mine K9075DA
Click to expand...
special shrinking ones
 
Fixed boost piping. Now holds 2 bars of pressure for 10minutes, then very slowly drops.
Rear bushes are next, any advice at all will be appreciated. Do you really need to remove spring when changing those?
Im changing the big front bush and trail arms bushes to powerflex ones.

Hmm the powerflex kit doesnt include the bushes that are on wheel knuckle. I guess I only change the big ones on front.
I think I send the powerflex back for now and order OEM ones unless someone thinks its not worth to use oem ones?
 
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New blinkers with cloudy old head. I tried to polish twice but still look like ****.they are full of tiny rubble. I wanted to chabge units but there is not any nice ones with xenon. Tried to find hella lenses but no luck. Reflectors look cloudy too. We have half year dark so good Light are musta.
 

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You want to speak to @t8ups he make xenon headlights and they are great light out put and the new lenses really make the car look fresh
 
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Car has some problems
Strangest is coming and going AFR issue, it goes to 10:1 at times what might be about leak but next second its ok and I cannot find any leak.
Today I got

I started to think that maybe the loom is totalled since it has been soaked in oil and many wires are hard as rock. Im thinking of renewing the loom.
Car has wideband conversion so BAM loom should be fine(?). Tuffty said that BAM loom might have some problems of fitting but I dont know what he means. Perhaps connectors are different on some places etc?

Next problem is car judders under load and it goes worse when speed raises. Judder stops when clutch engaged so possible reasons:
- Prop shaft unstable
- Prop shaft rubber joint broken
- Prop shaft bolts sheared
- Prop shaft bearing gone(?)

There is some play on prop shaft when turning by hand and you can feel it when accelerate and decelerate right after it in fast pace.
The rubber connection at front of prop has some cracks in it. Im going to replace the rubber connections just to be safe.
Does the center bearing break easy?

Clutch makes rattle noise too, most likely DMF. When clutch engaged it goes lot quieter.

Listening to engine the head sounds loud, like ticking. Most likely the hydraulic lifters are stuck perhaps. Anything else it might be?
my A3 is so damn quiet.
Injectors make lots of noise too, so hard to really know what its exact. I try take video of it if someone can recoqnise.

If I get BAM loom, perhaps would be best to install EGT too and VNT too.
 
Can anyone point me to direction where on UK to find used wiring harness for BAM or AUM?
and does audi TT harness fit to S3?
 
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Warsuperior said:
Can anyone point me to direction where on UK to find used wiring harness for BAM or AUM?
and does audi TT harness fit to S3?
Click to expand...
Breaker's/scrap yard.
Yes a bam loom from a TT will fit. Remember it's just a loom, auq loom isn't much different

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TT loom will be a little different as the engine bay layout, headlight plugs etc are subtly different... you will probably need to cut and shut the looms to get you where you want to be

<tuffty/>
 
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Thanks for advice guys :)
Other thing would be to splice from ecu connector the wires and renew with different cable. Its just going to be hard work and long taking.

I have the old BAM loom that has broken connectors but good wires.
 
Im trying to hunt the judder/vibration. I was thinking to lift front wheels up and disable haldex but does haldex really disable itself if I pull fuse and plugs below rear seat?
I need to rev car with gears engaged to find the reason what resonates but I dont have lifter so I have to lif it top of stands and I rather not let the rear tires engage unless I lift all tires of ground.
 
audi upgrades
I hear knocking kind of sound when accelerating softly to 3-4k rpm with 2nd and 3rd gear. Might be DMF.
On idle the DMF most likely makes lot of noise and rattle/knocking so I guess its busted. It was not new but approx 2000km driven one. I tested it like the guides say and it was fine but possibly not.

I get lot of judder specially when reversing and first gear. I read that many other have same problem too.
Tomorrow going to garage, lift car up and try to find why in hell the car shakes lot after 80kmh when you acclerate.

The head makes some noise, possibly lifters. What lifters have people used? are INA ones good?
Damn expensive they are :D

Has anyone had problems with prop shaft being unbalanced?
Car has 290 000 km mileage so I guess many rubber parts are end of line.

Id like to replace the rods for drilled ones but I rather not rip the whole engine apart. Im trying to manage get this engine to driveable condions and take the AGU engine from my A3 and rebuild that instead.
AGU pistons should handle my power range easily, just going to hone it and replace rods for H-profile rifle drilled.
I would really like to build stroker engine but I guess its out of my budget at this time, unless I just replace the crank and not bore engine. That way I could gain some engine cc's

I was offerent Link TT+ ecu but I dont know is it worth it. Ignitron seems to be better.

EDIT: I bought AUM loom plus lambda loom so now I can eliminate the problems with my old loom.
 
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