S3 GTX2860R gen II build

Think you should concentrate on getting this build do I'd het and running good before you start stripping ur other car.
You will need at least one good runner until this build is finished.
 
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Pulled haldex fuse and car is great to drive. No vibration, free rolls great etc.
Haldex plates stuck? I changed oil about 500km Aho but dont have any clue how Long ago was Last time.
 
I cant find earth strap for haldex anywhere? Its supposed to be on right side(passanger) of car?
Mine is 1999 pre facelift so is it possible it doesnt have one?
Where should I fit one as upgrade?


No fault codes. Got fault code when pulled fuse ofc.
New pump approx 30 000km ago.
How do you test the haldex with vcds?
Either its stuck plates(no idea how to unstuck) or haldex controller broken. I have not yet installed the aftermarket ecumaster controller.
 
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Strap didnt change anything. Fuse Off car drive lot smoothiet, no shake/vibration / judder on acclereration. Fuse on shakes/vibration horribly.
Sigh...
 
Car doesnt have EPS or traction control of any kind and no cruise.

Things I checked:
- ABS sensors show all the same km/h, perhaps 1km/h difference sometimes.
- Car not running says "LO" on pump I think(carport program, not vcds) and when start car, it goes to "HI"
- Checked block where it says 3x "LO" "LO" "LO" and when press brake one changes to high. Clutch doesnt change anything, handbrake doesnt change anything. I dont know how to read this so if anyone could explain to me, I would appreciate it.
- I logged the percentage for lock and when you start to move car, it raised to 8% and when speed raises the percentage raises too. At fast accelerate it said 51%. I dont know how to read this one either but if this is lock level, why does it lock it even wheels dont spin? busted controller?

When you pull fuse and it works, doesnt this mean that its electrical problem?
Wouldn the stuck haldex plates shake car even when fuse is off? again, i dont really understand fully how the haldex works so I might be wrong.
I have changed haldex oil and filter but not the other oil, would this help?
Im not certain but I think this vibration problem got worse after haldex oil change.

Yes I have searched the forum and read topics about haldex and one was similiar to mine that had same symptoms but idk how the car was fixed.

Other problems I noticed with car:
- Water level warning light came up today, this is second time it asks for more water. No leaks on car. Quite lot of water is coming from exhaust pipe (pipe leaks still, havent been able to weld this) every time you start the car. White water vapor on idle, doesn't burn oil or doesn't increase oil level.
Busted head gasket might be the reason. Either the head is not straight or the head gasket quality was bad or I ****** up something on install or it broke now when driving car.
- DMF is for certain broken, it rattles and clocks when engaged, it also shakes lot on slow speeds.
- Front CV joint on left side is broken, you can hear it rattle when driving in circles


EDIT: Haldex pump replaced 44000km ago and 7 years so I guess it can be busted.
There is huge gap between haldex oil changes in years. Last time haldex change is noted is that same amount 44000km ago and 7 years. Before that 2003 when car was only been driven 82000km
If this is true, the haldex has been with bad maintenance.

Transmission has been repurposed 2014 and 24000km ago
 
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I did haldex test. Pump runs, rear clicks on test, pump turns Off etc. Pump Off rear spins normally and pump on rear engages.
When driving Lost likely the haldex is on all time sinne the judder, vibration etc.
Can you flush haldex?
 
Haldex will partially engage depending on various conditions... its not 100% reactive meaning its not waiting for the wheels to actually spin but will partially engage....

Interestingly while looking through my logs I don't believe I have seen 100% engagement....

On a log I took while on a road in Mexico I was doing a rolling start in first and the highest clutch engagement I saw was 88% as I part throttled up a small incline before burying the pedal
Screenshot 2018 10 01 at 105348

Interestingly as I go through the gears haldex engagement drops away... this is with a HPA controller fitted

Juddering is normally down to worn clutch plates or a faulty controller... you can't flush the haldex but you can take it apart to clean... I have done this on a spare diff and there is some info and pictures on this in my build thread... which you have no doubt read at least twice by now ;)

<tuffty/>
 
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<tuffty/> said:
Haldex will partially engage depending on various conditions... its not 100% reactive meaning its not waiting for the wheels to actually spin but will partially engage....

Interestingly while looking through my logs I don't believe I have seen 100% engagement....

On a log I took while on a road in Mexico I was doing a rolling start in first and the highest clutch engagement I saw was 88% as I part throttled up a small incline before burying the pedal
View attachment 166682
Interestingly as I go through the gears haldex engagement drops away... this is with a HPA controller fitted

Juddering is normally down to worn clutch plates or a faulty controller... you can't flush the haldex but you can take it apart to clean... I have done this on a spare diff and there is some info and pictures on this in my build thread... which you have no doubt read at least twice by now ;)

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Thanks! Yes I have read your bible but I cannot remember it 100% yet, gotta read again :D
Next thing in my mind was to rip haldex apart and clean it. Still more cheaper than buy new one.
 
I asked garage that changed my haldex oil and they said it was total *****. looked like hadnt been changed in ages.
I got two options. Pay 350 dollars for spare rear diff without haldex controller and repurpose that and change it when ready or rip this one apart and repurpose it.
My diff is driven nearl 290 00km and the other is approx 200 000km but no quarantee that its in better shape.

BTW the car worked lot better when I got it first time running. These problems went worse after changing of oils.
Maybe i should try to change oil again and pray.
 
If its not been changed in a while then the damage is most likely already done dude... seeing this a lot now as the cars are older and haldex is not something that gets thought about when servicing outside the dealer network

<tuffty/>
 
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Dare I say it, but the old crappy oil was probably keeping it all together running smooth. Obviously this shouldn’t be the case. But by putting the new oil in it’s all loose, thinner, etc. I would take yours apart, clean it, replace what needs replacing. That way you know you’ve got a solid working diff.


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audi upgrades
<tuffty/> said:
If its not been changed in a while then the damage is most likely already done dude... seeing this a lot now as the cars are older and haldex is not something that gets thought about when servicing outside the dealer network

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
You are most likely right. I could gamble with new diffs if they sell for 250euros and open that. 200k km is still less thank 290k

Edit damn auto correct. Changed most to lost
 
S3AMJ said:
Dare I say it, but the old crappy oil was probably keeping it all together running smooth. Obviously this shouldn’t be the case. But by putting the new oil in it’s all loose, thinner, etc. I would take yours apart, clean it, replace what needs replacing. That way you know you’ve got a solid working diff.


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Click to expand...
Most certainly this is the case. Seen this before on gearboxes and other diffs.
 
Should I put the VVT version of cam adjuster when I replace the cam chain and adjuster?
Is it worth it to spend 150€ more for VVT kit?

I know its not like other VVT but you gain 400-500rpm quicker spool what I have heard of.
alltho spool is pretty fast now too.

Head gasket is busted propably because I remembered that car pushed waters out when I got it running first time. Might have broken it then.

Im making sure and replacing the gasket too but then comes to mind also to replace the rods with rifle drilled ones since Im taking head off..
It just going to cost lot to replace them.
 
I ordered new head gasket and the VVT adjuster+lifters. Also incoming is new AUM loom with aux loom.

Does the rear diff drop out without having to remove the whole rear axle? Remove 4 bolts from cross member, propshaft and driveshafts and its out?
Tried to google but didint manage to find topics with pics anymore.
And yes, I read Tuffty topic too, didnt find disassembly on it.

Im going to repair the old diff and hope its not in bad shape.
 
Okay I know now how to get rid of rear diff but one question:
Can you drive long periods and even dyno the car with just fuse off for haldex? Is there any harm?
I have dyno time reserved tomorrow but the rear of the car doesnt work if haldex engages. I need dyno paper for MOT so we are not looking at max power, just the 209hp limit
 
Warsuperior said:
Okay I know now how to get rid of rear diff but one question:
Can you drive long periods and even dyno the car with just fuse off for haldex? Is there any harm?
I have dyno time reserved tomorrow but the rear of the car doesnt work if haldex engages. I need dyno paper for MOT so we are not looking at max power, just the 209hp limit
Click to expand...
You can run for short periods of time but you then need to let the haldex cool down inbetween otherwise you will cook the oil and damage the friction plates

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
You can run for short periods of time but you then need to let the haldex cool down inbetween otherwise you will cook the oil and damage the friction plates

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
ok thanks. Im going to cancel (again) the time and fix the car 100% before taking to dyno.
btw im driving now my a3 1.8t mapped to 190hp and it just feels so slow against the s3 :D
 
superkarl said:
You mean on the belt side? No.



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Click to expand...
belt sid yes. Thank you :)

one could go crazy and install the NA camshafts now too..

Edit: Im going to take the head for a inspection and hope its not busted. They can straighten it too sametime and if anyone knows, how lot you can "shave off" from head, id be happy to take that information.
I could gain some CR by shaving some off from head.
Edit2: except then you need to change timing of the belt.

Edit3: Im looking to replace ring seals on camshafts but im bit confused of the spare parts catalog. I need two normal and two that spin right, right?
 
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Today ordered following:
Head gasket
intake/exhaust gasket
VVT+chain+valve cover gasket+VVT gaskets
new bolts for head
seal rings for cams
new lifters exhaust+intake
all diff seals according to Tuffty excel list
new oils for rear diff+haldex
head bolt tool
new meyle temperature sensor for engine just in case
Cardan/propshaft middle bearing just in case

Im leaving the conrods alone since the most sounds are coming from flywheel.
When Im replacing flywheel I rethink about conrods.
Also the head gasket might be ok but Im not taking more risks with it. I want to be sure.
 
Warsuperior said:
Today ordered following:
Head gasket
intake/exhaust gasket
VVT+chain+valve cover gasket+VVT gaskets
new bolts for head
seal rings for cams
new lifters exhaust+intake
all diff seals according to Tuffty excel list
new oils for rear diff+haldex
head bolt tool
new meyle temperature sensor for engine just in case
Cardan/propshaft middle bearing just in case

Im leaving the conrods alone since the most sounds are coming from flywheel.
When Im replacing flywheel I rethink about conrods.
Also the head gasket might be ok but Im not taking more risks with it. I want to be sure.
Click to expand...
It's like your made of money be good to see if them rods hold out

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andrew_wright said:
It's like your made of money

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Click to expand...
fcking poor as hell I am! but cant waste all the money I have spend on car just leaving it to rot outdoors.
This set set me back 517€ alone... but Im paying it back slowly

I did got raise today tho :)
 
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Warsuperior said:
fcking poor as hell I am! but cant waste all the money I have spend on car just leaving it to rot outdoors.
This set set me back 517€ alone... but Im paying it back slowly

I did got raise today tho :)
Click to expand...
It's frustrating to read tbh. These S3 really do seem to be like most say...a money pit.
Keep going mate, you will get to a happy place with it at some point. Question...why didn't you invest in the A3? Just curious is all.

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may 2016 a bolt went through my left front tire on a very hard turn to right.
I was driving 70km/h at least(cant remember) and tire exploded to pieces after bolt pierced it. Car pulled to right straight to protective steel bar on overpass.
As you see on pic, it doesnt look bad but it totalled the chassis.
Chassis is bend towards back and right side of car. Car runs straight but you can tell all is not ok with it.
Biggest hit went to the left security steel bar on car and that went backwards pushing the door out of place too(and I myself threw on the left door too since I drive on that side)
The suspension totalled itself too and ripped ball joint out of the wheel holder and pushed steering inwards totalling outer and inner steering rods.
Steering leaks oil still but not going to replace the whole steering box.
and so many other problems too to fix.

Car is driveable still but not going to pass next MOT, since there is so lot to repair.
 

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I bought approx 200k km driven rear diff without haldex and pump. Im going to repair it and replace old.
I won some money so I was thinking to buy stuff for stroker engine.
Any tips or guides would be lovely :) Im going to go read tuffty topic now but if there is some definite guide, Id be happy for that.
 
I wanted to order ekagrip but shipping was 70dollars top of 60dollars so its a no go.
Im tempted to order ignitron btw. I have money for it now. Question is should I or not?
 
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Wouldn't bother with a girdle on your turbo..

<tuffty/>
 
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I was thinking future but I can get it later too.
Ignitron suggested MAP from seat supercopa, so I guess it is this 038 906 051 D to install on intake manifold.
 
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Warsuperior said:
I was thinking future but I can get it later too.
Ignitron suggested MAP from seat supercopa, so I guess it is this 038 906 051 D to install on intake manifold.
Going to be hard to install on my rennsport...
Click to expand...
That part number is a 2.5bar map sensor so std... 03k 906 051 is the 4bar

Not difficult to install... just t- off from an existing outlet like I did here
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/my-minor-modding-thread.76389/page-87#post-3195676

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
That part number is a 2.5bar map sensor so std... 03k 906 051 is the 4bar

Not difficult to install... just t- off from an existing outlet like I did here
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/my-minor-modding-thread.76389/page-87#post-3195676

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Thank you again lots! I tried search but never seem to find the right page from your bible :)
I ordered the 4 bar model.
I have new water temp, new IAT and now incoming new map. Any suggestion what else sensor to replace at same time? perhaps the camshaft sensor?
VVT packet is already incoming too.
 
Nice, you took the plunge on going Ignitron :) You'll like it a lot
 
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Some good news, some bad.
Good first: head gasket is ok Lost likely. Today found Red fluid under car whole changing driveshaft. Started to trace it and found hose with home in it Only leaks when moving it so that is why i never before found it. Also I put in More Red fluid so now I was it.
From hose fluid went top of exhaust.

Bad news .. Check pic. Something has hit wheel and blades. Possibly top of blades broken Off and cruise around. Turbo still work great and i asked turbo sefvices for opinions. ****** me Off because this is my own carelessnes why new turbo is broken.
 

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Any idea if I use 3"->2.5" hose on TIP because 3" holes in contact with brake booster(lhd car)
Any loss? My imagination says kone sinne we use 60mm boost pipe, tho pressure air is different thank free flow
 
I'd try to find a way to use 3" if you can tbh... there are gains on a K04... so downsizing on a bigger turbo makes no sense

<tuffty/>
 
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