Loba HPFP rough idle

woodyS3

woodyS3

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Right People i shall give you the list of everything that has been changed first:

Spark plugs
Red RS4 Coil packs
PVC Breather "R" edition
OEM Cam Follower about 5 months ago
Changed the Blue Seal on my original HPFP.

Now on Tuesday night, we changed my HPFP to this second hand Loba unit i bought off the bay, the chap said it ran great on his car with no issues. After finally stopping the fuel leak that we had when priming the uprated unit, we started the car and it was running very rough on idle, revving by itself and fluctuating revs on idle. now i have had similar issues like this before but that was caused by the PVC breather which is why i have the new version.
Now the car does does go alot better with this new pump when you get above 2K revs and to be honest you wouldn't know anything was wrong until you let the car idle.
My car was in standard form so i thought i would put on my stage 1 bluefin and see if it helped, which it didnt.
It goes alot better obviously but it still idles rough and now every now and again the boost will die completely but then come back 10 minutes later.
I have scanned my car and got alot of fault codes so im asking for help. Is it the second hand pump that is knackered? or should i have changed the Cam follower and the ring seal on this new pump or is this related to something else?

Here are the fault codes.....

9 Faults Found:
004243 - Bank 1; Fuel Measuring System 2
P1093 - 008 - Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 114736 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.12.30
Time: 21:38:52

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2011 /min
Load: 8.2 %
Speed: 39.0 km/h
Temperature: 49.0°C
Temperature: 9.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V

008825 - Leak in Air Intake System
P2279 - 002 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 114747 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.12.30
Time: 21:49:22

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 941 /min
Load: 15.3 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 72.0°C
Temperature: 13.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843 V

000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 008 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 114749 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.12.31
Time: 07:07:46

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 953 /min
Load: 27.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 18.0°C
Temperature: 3.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.097 V

000769 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 008 - Misfire Detected
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 114749 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.12.31
Time: 07:11:16

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 850 /min
Load: 16.1 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 34.0°C
Temperature: 5.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843 V

000771 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 008 - Misfire Detected
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 114749 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.12.31
Time: 07:11:16

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 850 /min
Load: 16.1 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 34.0°C
Temperature: 5.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843 V

000770 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 008 - Misfire Detected
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 114749 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.12.31
Time: 07:11:16

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 850 /min
Load: 16.1 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 34.0°C
Temperature: 5.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843 V

001287 - Idle Control System RPM
P0507 - 001 - Higher than Expected. - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 114769 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.12.31
Time: 07:30:27

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1378 /min
Load: 10.6 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 74.0°C
Temperature: 26.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.097 V

008567 - Bank 1; System Too Lean off Idle
P2177 - 001 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 114771 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.12.31
Time: 07:32:36

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1672 /min
Load: 21.6 %
Speed: 67.0 km/h
Temperature: 71.0°C
Temperature: 9.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V

000772 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 008 - Misfire Detected
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 114905 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.02
Time: 16:44:39

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 4404 /min
Load: 91.7 %
Speed: 85.0 km/h
Temperature: 45.0°C
Temperature: 5.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.097 V

Readiness: 0000 0101

All these faults have happened in the last couple of days so it has to be related.
I'll post a video shortly of the rough idle.
Please someone help....
 
Think I'd be rechecking the pipe from your pcv to manifold to make sure it's clicked in ok.
Doesn't sound like normal fuel pressure problems.
 
The air intake does sound very loud now, like its sucking very hard, doesn't sound right at all, its an ITG Maxogen.
On Monday we will put the old HPFP back on and see what happens then. Im gonna try and return this unit becuase its put me in a bad mind set. I thought as it was a pre built Loba unit it would be fine but im just gonna get the Autotec internals i think, how easy are they to fit?
Do you think this unit would be ok still or not, im really not sure what to do
 
If you've not had any issues with the new pump I'd keep it as they're a very good unit.
Was the fuel leak caused by the fitting of the pipes etc?
Sounds to me like you've disturbed your intake system or pcv pipe.
The faults described don't sound like fuel problems.
If the pump hasn't had any fuel leaks or you've no reason to doubt it then I'd choose it over Autotech internals any day
 
Marshy said:
If you've not had any issues with the new pump I'd keep it as they're a very good unit.
Was the fuel leak caused by the fitting of the pipes etc?
Sounds to me like you've disturbed your intake system or pcv pipe.
The faults described don't sound like fuel problems.
If the pump hasn't had any fuel leaks or you've no reason to doubt it then I'd choose it over Autotech internals any day
Click to expand...



Well we temporarily lost the washer off the nipple that connects to one of the main fuel lines, so we put on some tape at first which did stop leaks and did work but the idle was rough thats when we found the washer on the floor so took the unit off again and replaced the washer but as we took it of there wasnt much pressure in the bleed thingy, it just trickled out so i was thinking that maybe its not making enough pressure at idle which is causing the rough idle, it does still smell of petrol but thats either because the petrol went ****** everywhere when we primed it up and leaked or because its running rough and its running too lean. as soon as my slow internet loads these videos you can see it. Do you think i should have replaced the cam follower and seal, i know it wouldnt of hurt but as mine was fairly new i thought i might aswell keep it and replace in the future and save myself some moneys
 
Also i should say i have taken off the MAF last night and there was no difference in the idle it was still horrible i then took the oil filler cap and again still no change, im not sure what this means but i just thought id tell you what happened.
 
audi upgrades
If you took the oil filler cap off with no change then you have a leak either in your inlet manifold side or your pcv.
When removing the oil filler it should struggle to run if your pcv is ok.
Take the pipe off the manifold from the pcv and put your finger over the end and see if it idles correctly.
The fuel leak issues you've had aren't anything to do with the fuel pump so I'd keep it.
As for pressure once the engines been off for a few minutes I've always found it just dribbles about 1/2 a cup of fuel out, the fuel smell will be there because it's spilt over your engine.
 
Marshy said:
If you took the oil filler cap off with no change then you have a leak either in your inlet manifold side or your pcv.
When removing the oil filler it should struggle to run if your pcv is ok.
Take the pipe off the manifold from the pcv and put your finger over the end and see if it idles correctly.
The fuel leak issues you've had aren't anything to do with the fuel pump so I'd keep it.
As for pressure once the engines been off for a few minutes I've always found it just dribbles about 1/2 a cup of fuel out, the fuel smell will be there because it's spilt over your engine.
Click to expand...


Ok well i'll try this tommorow, we took this breather pipe off that connects to the mainfold so hopefully it is that simple, if i cover this hole up i imagine this stops the vacuum leak and it runs fine, if it is this would you reccomend the pvc delete or keep it. My goal is running stage 2+ in the next few months so i do appreciate your help.
 
It's difficult to tell from the video as you don't show the engine only the Rev clock.
Try covering the manifold as above, if that fixes it then it's a pcv problem.
I have a pcv delete for sale if you need one.
 
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Marshy said:
It's difficult to tell from the video as you don't show the engine only the Rev clock.
Try covering the manifold as above, if that fixes it then it's a pcv problem.
I have a pcv delete for sale if you need one.
Click to expand...

Ok will do tomorrow, I'll also take a video of the engine and show you everything.
That could come in handy, I'll let you know tommorow thanks. If that doesnt solve the issue i'll have the fuel pump off on monday and see what happens.
 
Marshy said:
It's difficult to tell from the video as you don't show the engine only the Rev clock.
Try covering the manifold as above, if that fixes it then it's a pcv problem.
I have a pcv delete for sale if you need one.
Click to expand...

Right well I took off that breather pipe, covered the hole to the manifold and it seemed alot better, not so rough on the idle, my Mrs mum revved it up and there was still something wrong but I didnt have the top side of the pcv brother covered so I'm not sure if this has something to do with it but I'd be happy to say that covering the breather hole to the manifold did help.
I have a video to follow (excuse the shouting at the mother in law).

Now my next question is how much for this pcv delete kit, how come your selling it if you don't mind me asking and what can I expect from it?

Thanks
 
Sounds promising then that your pcv is leaking.
A pcv revamp takes away any chance of losing boost from your pcv ever again. If your pcv is leaking you'd gain some extra performance.
Selling as I bought a catch can setup so no longer need it.
I'll be selling it for £50 delivered if you wanted it.
 
Marshy said:
Sounds promising then that your pcv is leaking.
A pcv revamp takes away any chance of losing boost from your pcv ever again. If your pcv is leaking you'd gain some extra performance.
Selling as I bought a catch can setup so no longer need it.
I'll be selling it for £50 delivered if you wanted it.
Click to expand...


Ah ok then, it's abit annoying as I only updated to the "R" revision in summer of last year as the valve was broken on the original one and now this ones knackered as well by the looks of it. What type of delete kit is it, Revo, BSH, APR?
Would a catch can be better?
I did think when it started doing the rough idle that it had the same symptoms as when the pcv went before but as I'd changed it to the new version and just put on this fuel pump I thought it had to be linked with the fuel.
Just goes to show that these latest "R" versions aren't all that either.
 
A catch can setup is just to try and stop some of the gunk going through the engine, not sure how effective it is but cost £250-£300 for a decent kit.
The revamp kit is made by boost performance and is a much better fit than the Revo one I tried previously.
This one has a better manifold plug which had a bung and a cap.
Give it some thought mate, I've not had chance to advertise it yet as on shift today.
 
Marshy said:
A catch can setup is just to try and stop some of the gunk going through the engine, not sure how effective it is but cost £250-£300 for a decent kit.
The revamp kit is made by boost performance and is a much better fit than the Revo one I tried previously.
This one has a better manifold plug which had a bung and a cap.
Give it some thought mate, I've not had chance to advertise it yet as on shift today.
Click to expand...

Here's the link to the new video
http ://youtu.be/gOkro0QBbfs




Ok I'll have a look at them, so this make is called boost performance then?
 
That still sounds like it's hunting a bit at idle but then it depends if your sealing the manifold 100%
Definitely looks better than the one of your Rev cliock when idling
 
Marshy said:
That still sounds like it's hunting a bit at idle but then it depends if your sealing the manifold 100%
Definitely looks better than the one of your Rev cliock when idling
Click to expand...

Well I had the palm of my hand over it and it was sucking quite hard against it and if I took my hand off it just died. It sounded fine when it was on idle but when she revved it up and let off the peddle it was still hunting abit but then calmed down.
 
Just a couple of things to add....

You should replace the follower if it hasn't been replaced recently.
It's cheap,and if it fails,the results are way out of proportion on costs to fix.

Catch cans.....yes,they do catch some of the gunk that the breather system spits out,but not all of it,as you still have the breather to the rear of the cam cover,which dumps oil into the turbo inlet,and then it ends up here....




I've had a catch can system on my car from around 10 000 miles up,and the can always managed to get some rubbish,but as I've said,it won't get it all.
 
Change of plan mate.
Keeping my pcv revamp kit and sending the catch can back for a refund.
Sorry
If your pcv is leaking then short term ie a day or so won't cause massive problems if you keep the car off boost, although yours must only be leaking slightly.
Just a thought have you checked your dipstick is fully in?
The pcv revamp I have only took a few days to come but if you were desperate for one I'm sure pat at LVS racing a sponsor on here would be able to get you one for tomorrow.
 
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The PCV thing on these engines is a real mess,isn't it.

So many areas where it can leak or simply do what it's designed to do,and lob oil and muck back into the engine.....which reminds me,the VTA system on mine needs draining again,so it's another close encounter with this stuff.

 
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Yeah I know I should really replace the cam follower but the one I put in about 6 months ago isn't really marked as of yet so I thought I'd save myself some money as it come with the fuel pump, however I should have changed the blue seal ring on the pump but I can change that anytime soon. My main concern is this pcv system, should I fork out the money for a catch can and have my Mrs kill me as we're moving house in febuary and I really wanted to spend the £200+ on the new flywheel I desperately need.

Does pat at LVS do a decent Pcv delete kit? I've now read bad things about the Revo kit and plus what Marshy said.

In the spring I wanna get the intake valves done, would this Seafoam stuff be any good? There is a place not far from me that did an edition 30 last year but I dunno if they use Seafoam or take off the actual head so you can get to the cylinders.
 
Hi woodyS3, did you get to the bottom of this problem? As I've just had the exact same issue after fitting my new Loba HPFP??

Cheers
 
Just a thought but have you had your car mapped to work with the new hpfp?
 
Mines sorted and running fine now, turns out my ITG intake had popped off whilst i was manhandling the filter a little bit to gain access to the HPFP fittings.

Smirky, should be fine running an uprated HPFP or Uprated internals before getting it mapped as the new HPFP will only supply more fuel / higher fuel pressure once its been mapped and the ecu requests more than a standard HPFP can supply.. could be wrong but i think thats the general idea of it anyway!
 
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