What about an adapter for injectors? do I need them? ThanksIt seems its the ev1 type connector which the factory harness also uses.So should be all good
What about an adapter for injectors? do I need them? ThanksIt seems its the ev1 type connector which the factory harness also uses.So should be all good
Do you think I'll need four of these?Not really sure...I'll ue IE fuelrail.injectors look like they are clear spray pattern wise... you may need something to support whatever fuel rail solution you go for to extend the tops of the injector though
<tuffty/>
Definitely I'll order fuel rail and we will see thank you man a lotNot fitted that combo personally so cannot comment.... not sure how low the fuel rail will fit on the IE mani but you will know soon enough I guess
<tuffty/>
@S3AMJ Based on your suggestion and your current setup I decided to go without bov as well based on antisurge on the turbo,on the couple more places I read people suggested to keep without bov and keep system presurusse... Nor really sure what worng I did,but people are very limited and most of them says you need bov.Please help me to understand better your setup. Also Bill from badger5 said "Keep dv. Anti surge is not for dv surge on lift off"MAC Valve has more control on the bigger turbo stuff. N75 has its limitations. I’m not running a BOV on my build, that’s up to you. Garrett G series turbos already have anti surge comp housings, running a BOV is more for older gen stuff. I’m also not running my oil catch can back into the engine as it has a slight impact on reducing octane….. I’m obviously trying to squeeze every bhp out of my G30-770 turbo though, not save the environment.
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Assuming you want input into this? basically Bill is saying that an anti surge compressor housing is there to mitigate compressor surge caused by trying to flow more air than the engine can consume.... compressor stall (the choo, choo, choo noise often mistakenly called wastegate chatter) is the result of not being able to release the pressure in the charge system when you lift off... this is the purpose of a blow off valve (atmos or DV)Also Bill from badger5 said "Keep dv. Anti surge is not for dv surge on lift off"
Thank you @<tuffty/> exactly snaping the air that coming back into turbo we are getting the noise, completely understand that part and the basics of how its works, but not sure if is it DV or BOV on @S3AMJ car hidden or is not exist at all. I'll go with some DV forge 50mm that you suggested a long time ago. Just wanted to make sure I understand correctly his setup and preference to go without bov and dv... pros and consAssuming you want input into this? basically Bill is saying that an anti surge compressor housing is there to mitigate compressor surge caused by trying to flow more air than the engine can consume.... compressor stall (the choo, choo, choo noise often mistakenly called wastegate chatter) is the result of not being able to release the pressure in the charge system when you lift off... this is the purpose of a blow off valve (atmos or DV)
<tuffty/>
Running your setup without BOV or DV will destroy your Turbo.Thank you @<tuffty/> exactly snaping the air that coming back into turbo we are getting the noise, completely understand that part and the basics of how its works, but not sure if is it DV or BOV on @S3AMJ car hidden or is not exist at all. I'll go with some DV forge 50mm that you suggested a long time ago. Just wanted to make sure I understand correctly his setup and preference to go without bov and dv... pros and cons
Thank you a lot for your quick reply. Maybe I'll do AWD conversion at some point, but for now, want to build my engine once and properly. I'll check all the results that you send and try to get more info from badger5 page...Thank you once again related to pistons grinding...Didn't know I have to grind that, but now I'm sure that is the right way to go. I thought, the pistons will fit perfectly, but probably not.The pistons have a cutout machined for the squirters, I measured the clearance and it was pretty small. I decided to trim the piston skirt a little more by grinding about 0.5mm more off the skirt where the squirter is. The amount of material I removed was very small and I did it on all 4 pistons . If I had bent the piston squirter out of the way a bit it would have been pointing in a different place . I suspect there are possibly detail differences between squirters mine were slightly different.
I think Badger 5 have done stroker G25-550 builds,Just did a search on there FB page for G25-550 stroker and got some hits.
I am not really sure you need more torque with a FWD car probably just end up with more wheelspin.
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Doesn't DIY alterations of the pistons impact the weight and balance?The pistons have a cutout machined for the squirters, I measured the clearance and it was pretty small. I decided to trim the piston skirt a little more by grinding about 0.5mm more off the skirt where the squirter is. The amount of material I removed was very small and I did it on all 4 pistons . If I had bent the piston squirter out of the way a bit it would have been pointing in a different place . I suspect there are possibly detail differences between squirters mine were slightly different.
I think Badger 5 have done stroker G25-550 builds,Just did a search on there FB page for G25-550 stroker and got some hits.
I am not really sure you need more torque with a FWD car probably just end up with more wheelspin.
View attachment 260558
not overly... you can check the weight if you really want to... its how you balance pistons anyway... essentially by weight... out the box you would be surprised how different they are and even more so how close the squirter cut outs are... always worth checking these on stroker builds and almost always need to remove materialDoesn't DIY alterations of the pistons impact the weight and balance?
Thank you @<tuffty/> I have to pick up later FSI crankshaft with a stroke of 92.5mm I also retuned my pistons and I have to buy a new one.I'll probably go with JE pistons 83mm and 9.5:1 CR I already have 144x20 rods and thicker wall pins from JE as well....I'm wondering if is there anything else I need for stroker build?If I'm right all I need for the stroker that is different from the regular build isnot overly... you can check the weight if you really want to... its how you balance pistons anyway... essentially by weight... out the box you would be surprised how different they are and even more so how close the squirter cut outs are... always worth checking these on stroker builds and almost always need to remove material
<tuffty/>
Thank you a lot @<tuffty/> I think for my 500bhp it's not necessary to do it as you mentioned at some point.I just wanted to check if can this be used, but if not I'll stay on oem one... please let me know do I need anything else from the list to build a stroker? Please check my post 221You can't change caps just like that as it will need to be line bored... if going down that route buy billet caps and get the assembled line bored
<tuffty/>
Don't get a DW65V go for the Sytec, they are cheaper and a lot more reliable. A good stock pump feeding an 044 in line pump will do 500bhp. A sytec or similar will help as it can flow more to feed the 044.DW65v or I think Bill sells Sytec they're a bit cheaper.
Thank you @desertstorm Ok then I have to keep the fuel delivery unit and just swap the current in-tank pump for Sytec. Right! btw relation to 044 do you have any diagram for wiring? Relay, fuses? Do I need an additional fuse or not?Don't get a DW65V go for the Sytec, they are cheaper and a lot more reliable. A good stock pump feeding an 044 in line pump will do 500bhp. A sytec or similar will help as it can flow more to feed the 044.
I took a feed from the existing fuel pump supply which operates a relay. You then just run a seperate 30A ignition switched feed through the relay contact to the 044. That way the 044 pump is only running when the in tank pump is running. I then later modified my 044 pump feed so it ran through a Solid State Relay that was controlled by the Ignitron ECU. This allows the ECU to control the 044 pump output using PWM .Thank you @desertstorm Ok then I have to keep the fuel delivery unit and just swap the current in-tank pump for Sytec. Right! btw relation to 044 do you have any diagram for wiring? Relay, fuses? Do I need an additional fuse or not?
Thanks a lot. I'll also check some photos from your thread. I hope I'll find something there.I took a feed from the existing fuel pump supply which operates a relay. You then just run a seperate 30A ignition switched feed through the relay contact to the 044. That way the 044 pump is only running when the in tank pump is running. I then later modified my 044 pump feed so it ran through a Solid State Relay that was controlled by the Ignitron ECU. This allows the ECU to control the 044 pump output using PWM .
Thank you @desertstorm Ok then I have to keep the fuel delivery unit and just swap the current in-tank pump for Sytec. Right! btw relation to 044 do you have any diagram for wiring? Relay, fuses? Do I need an additional fuse or not?
That layout looks good. You don't need any other pumps.Hey guys me again...Slowly getting there. I send my head to a machine shop, hope end of February I'll run the car will see...
However, want to check something before I make any mistakes )) I'll probably go with a small compact surge tank. I don't want to go with extra capacity. Here is the diagram...
The question is.
1.Is this right way to do it?
2.Do I need one more lift up pump to surge tank on the green line
3.Do I need filter before surge tank on the green line
4.Do you think positions of connectos on the surge tank is good or I need to relocate something
I think sytec will be enough in combination with bosch 044,but still need to check that.
View attachment 262243
Thank you a lot!
@<tuffty/> @desertstorm @S3AMJ I'll really appreciate your answer! Thanks
Thank you @desertstorm do you think I have to worry about warm fuel that is returning back into the surge tank?That layout looks good. You don't need any other pumps.
Thank you @desertstorm for quick response.I wouldn't worry about warm fuel in the swirl pot, there is a lot of fuel moving back and forward between the tank and the swirl pot. You do need to think about the fuel line placing and making sure everything is safe and secure in the car, Think about what might happen in the event of an accident. You have fuel in the car, Don't use rubber hoses, fuel can permeate through the rubber and you will be able to smell it in the car all the time.
I used those Sachs bolts for the DMF on my car and had no issues.
That is just an oil pressure switch, In the MK1 TT there is an oil temperature sensor in the sump. The temperature of the oil is read by the cluster. Ignitron reads this value off the CAN bus packets that the cluster puts out. This tells you the oil temp of oil in the sump.
You can add an oil temperature sensor in the oil pressure test port and wire it into Ignitron as an extra sensor.
Not sure why you need a new fuel swirl pot in the boot.. seems like a fire-ball waiting to happen... don't folks with +500bhp setups just use an intank uprated fuel pump... (used to be dw65v and now Bill is selling Sytec as stock replacement) and additional inline tank.
Did they ever make an A3 8L with a battery in the boot? (I'm sure this was talked about recently??)
With the TT, the V6 and QS had a different spare tyre well, with a space for a battery.. a battery is also supposed to be able to vent to the outside... my TT just has a strap / clamp currently, but if i ever bother to get the car sorted if everything works okay... I will get a 'yellow top' battery, not that much more expensive than normal, but can be fitted any way up...
Thank you @Stuart B for your reply. I'll definitely go with a stronger in-tank setup.I just received my Sytec pump...I don't have a swirl pot in my TT and the only issues I have are when the fuel level goes below about 1/4 tank on long fast right hand corners the fuel goes to the other side of the tank and you start to get fuel starvation. I changed the odyssey for a 30Ah Exide AGM motorbike battery. This works a lot better than the Odyssey but is a few Kg heavier. Easier to mount in the boot and it doesn't need venting.