Ignitron ECU

I am finally doing my s3 upgrade with parts supplied buy Badger5.
My 1st and last S3, just love this baby
What is best method about fitting new engine to old i-ECU
will full throttle allow engine to be primed with oil, or must i-ECu be set to wait for oil pressure to be be reached.
etc, want to treat me baby right.
 
TrueSoft said:
I am finally doing my s3 upgrade with parts supplied buy Badger5.
My 1st and last S3, just love this baby
What is best method about fitting new engine to old i-ECU
will full throttle allow engine to be primed with oil, or must i-ECu be set to wait for oil pressure to be be reached.
etc, want to treat me baby right.
Click to expand...
Putting your foot flat on the accelerator and turning the engine over for 10-15 seconds should build enough pressure. I would repeat 2-3 times to make sure that all is good.
 
Engine in and running, a few mistakes along the way, few hrs latter she was running.
TurboSmart
the exhaust, waste gate and turbo are a bitch to fit 1st time.I did waste gate last, maybe doing them in a different order next time.
engine started 1st time after oil was primed and ecu was asked to wait for 0.5bar of oil pressure.
took her for a 30 mile drive home and I definitely have the TurboSmart waste gate plumbed incorrectly. did a little boost and all hell broke loose.
just starts wheel spinning in 4th at 70mph and boost was recorded at 340kpa before I could take foot of the pedal
what set up do I use for controlling the boost?
thanks :)
 
The two port connection method is the best way to control the boost. If you are running the engine in I would just try it with no connections on and see what the car makes on actuator pressure. Also might be worth setting a boost limiter to put the car into limp mode whilst you are testing the actuator.
1667594151178
 
Thanks Storm.
Tee Piece arriving tomorrow so will test without any connections to waste gate on the morning run.
How will limp mode activated control the turbo boost if not connected?
Are there a few things you would double check are set correctly in the LIMP SETTINGS to help protect my engine whilst I am a novice?
 
Appears you were a little keen pulling away and got some wheelspin . Usually is the front left that spins as it's unloaded compared to the front right and with the shorter driveshaft that side tends to get more positive drive. You don't seem to be changing gear particularly quickly looking at the time you are off the gas. The Boost seems to be taking a while to recover. Have a look at the turbo log and see what that is going on with the wastegate. You could have some boost leaks. Add IAT as well and see how well the intercooler is doing. Fuel trims look OK.
 
Hi Storm
That was your log from the 0-60 you did.
My boost is a bit more manageable but not right, my Turbo is leaking oil from the outlet onto the exhaust.:(
Stripped and redid her over the weekend and still leaks :(
Please find attached my log in 3rd on a private road for your valued comments
www.truesoft.co.uk/s3/Ignitron-ECU-08.zip
 
Hi
Went for a run and changed a few things, mainly boost pressure and piston size.
the iECU complained that my knock frequency was outside my piston size?
please find attached setup and log file.
boost is not reaching specified target, even though I know turbo can easily achieve this.
 

Attachments

  • Ignitron-ECU-09.zip
    115.1 KB · Views: 100
I have been reading your thread on your TT.
I am so humbled. by this forum.
mind blowing knowledge.
 
TrueSoft said:
Hi Storm
That was your log from the 0-60 you did.
My boost is a bit more manageable but not right, my Turbo is leaking oil from the outlet onto the exhaust.:(
Stripped and redid her over the weekend and still leaks :(
Please find attached my log in 3rd on a private road for your valued comments
www.truesoft.co.uk/s3/Ignitron-ECU-08.zip
Click to expand...
Didn't recognise it as mine it's been a while since I did that. I do remember that I wasn't trying to push through the gears as i was concerned about the gearbox. I also revisited the turbo boost control and improved that to improve on spool time.
 
Looking at the first log the turbo never makes more than 1.2 bar of boost and the wastegate is pretty much closed most of the time. The intake temps don't look to be increasing so I don't think the turbo is working hard. maybe the wastegate not closing properly on the turbo or you have a boost leak. Is the MAP sensor correct for the one selected in Ignitron.
1668735024336
 
Looking at the second log I can see you have requested 2 bar boost rather than 1.5 bar but are still not getting anything more than 1.2 bar. Looking at the MAP sensor calibration it's a 3 bar map sensor . Have you got a 3 bar MAP sensor in the car? The only difference betwen the two logs is the amount the wastegate is opened . Because you have increased the target boost the difference is larger so the wastegate is pretty much fully closed all the time the car is on boost. I would say the wastegate is opening. What is the actuator pressure ?? . A 1 bar actuator may give 1.2 bar of boost .
1668736291907
 
No,MAP sensor is 4bar from Badger5
Where did you see my setup is for a 3 bar sensor?
I am taking the g25-550 turbo and turbosmart waste gate off tomorrow to fix oil leak on oil exit pipe.
I have the 1 bar spring in the waste gate. should I up the springs strength?
think I will check for leaks too.
appreciate your input.
 
TrueSoft said:
No,MAP sensor is 4bar from Badger5
Where did you see my setup is for a 3 bar sensor?
I am taking the g25-550 turbo and turbosmart waste gate off tomorrow to fix oil leak on oil exit pipe.
I have the 1 bar spring in the waste gate. should I up the springs strength?
think I will check for leaks too.
appreciate your input.
Click to expand...
Sorry I meant to say 4 bar and not 3 bar sensor. It is set up for the 4 bar sensor. If you have have the turbo and actuator off I would be checking the actuator diaphragm is good. A vacuum pump will let you check it . If the diaphragm has a leak it won't hold boost pressure so the wastegate will be opening based on the spring pressure. A 1 bar spring is fine for what you are doing.
 
Thanks, I will take the opportunity and put gate valve on Helium leak detector tomorrow, good suggestion whilst it's off, suspect a leak in a pipe though or pipes on wrong way around on N75 valve.
Will put all back on Friday afternoon before it gets dark as we finish at 12:30.
I think I have pretty much the same set up as you, if I recall,
Hurricane rods, J E pistons, turbo etc. Could I get a copy of your ignitron.ISF to take a look at?
Once car is back together (Friday), I plan to upgrade iECU firmware and new updated software.
Are the setup files compatible with old version or should I start from a fresh base wizard, seeing as though I have not really done any tuning as of yet?
Glad full help files are available in English in new version, many thanks Karl and Baliszoft
.
 
Fixed Turbo oil leak, but only getting 1.5 bar pressure.
Thought maybe I had waste gate pipes the wrong way around, so pulled over and swapped them.
Big mistake. At 4000 rpm the turbo just started to run away in 4th without accelerating. took foot off and all seamed okay.
Put foot flat and the car just went until turbo exploded and shaft shaft snapped :(
engine still good, not sure how much of the turbo will be salvageable.
 
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Do you not have any of the protection maps or settings set up ??. How much boost did the turbo make before it went pop??. I did something similar on my car when I first built the engine and connected the wastegate up wrongly. The turbo hit 2.4 bar of boost and I knew something wasn't right. Hope it's not caused any more damage
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threa...seconds-at-127-mph.319422/page-6#post-3410128

1669411660940
 
My waste gate thankfully only fits one way around, Lol
I got an error from ECU saying the pressure in the manifold exceeded the sensor pressure, so above 400 kPa, followed by a big bang and smoke.
Serious accelaration.
New Turbo on order as there is not much left, think it all went down the exhaust.
Thanks for info,
I will do as tuffy said..I would unroute the n75 in ignitron... It will run on pure actuator pressure...
and need to learn about how to set turbo up so that it is controlled.
I know what happens if not.
 
I was recording log when incident happened, lipped home, and just stopped the recording and shut down computer. Without thinking clearly.
Is the a place this log is stored that I could try to retrieve it.
Thanks
 
TrueSoft said:
I was recording log when incident happened, lipped home, and just stopped the recording and shut down computer. Without thinking clearly.
Is the a place this log is stored that I could try to retrieve it.
Thanks
Click to expand...
If you had the autolog set up and were recording boost pressure in there then that will tell you what the boost hit. If you haven't set up the autolog then I would as it's recording at all times and could be useful if you have an issue and are not logging at that time.
 
Fitted new Turbo, Had to clean out exhaust as it was full of oil and smoking alot !!!.
Fitted new firmware today and took her for a drive to start learning fuel trims.
Boost seems to be under better control with MAC valve.
Weather to bad at mo, so called it a day.
Would like to implement boost by gear to stop wheel spin.
So glad car seems to be going well again and seems to be no damaged from turbo explosion.
Please see attached iECU files for your valued comments and suggestions.
Seasons greetings to you all.
 

Attachments

  • Ignitron-ECU-10.zip
    140.8 KB · Views: 87
Things are starting to settle down.
Fuel trims are getting better.
Change Turbo boost map target from 2.25kpa to 2.75kpa.
seems to over shoot before gate valve duty cycle drops off.
I also played with the Haldex settings, got comms working and had to turn Torque control off, I think.
Did not know what I was doing so resorted to iECU backup settings.
Anybody have any input on this option.
 
TrueSoft said:
Things are starting to settle down.
Fuel trims are getting better.
Change Turbo boost map target from 2.25kpa to 2.75kpa.
seems to over shoot before gate valve duty cycle drops off.
I also played with the Haldex settings, got comms working and had to turn Torque control off, I think.
Did not know what I was doing so resorted to iECU backup settings.
Anybody have any input on this option.
Click to expand...
You have to adjust the max intergrator value on each map to get the boost response correct. You can Ignitron to control the Haldex if you disconnect the ABS from the CAN bus. I have not tried using the Haldex control as I want to keep my ABS.
 
Thanks Storm, I want to keep my ABS too.
Car goes into limp mode after a quick burst in say 3rd. Love 3rd.
keep getting knock on sensor 1, looks like I am listening to music,sensor 2 is almost like a heart beat.
Out of my depth regarding the knock settings and was just going to turn it off, but realized all the work going into the software.
Must be there for idiot protection.
With all the mistakes I have made with this engine I am surprised she still live.
Thanks to the internals supplied by Badger5 and the Ignitron
The limp mode happens even at 1.1bar boost.
I think and hope engine is good, any advice on these settings.
Thanks
 
TrueSoft said:
Thanks Storm, I want to keep my ABS too.
Car goes into limp mode after a quick burst in say 3rd. Love 3rd.
keep getting knock on sensor 1, looks like I am listening to music,sensor 2 is almost like a heart beat.
Out of my depth regarding the knock settings and was just going to turn it off, but realized all the work going into the software.
Must be there for idiot protection.
With all the mistakes I have made with this engine I am surprised she still live.
Thanks to the internals supplied by Badger5 and the Ignitron
The limp mode happens even at 1.1bar boost.
I think and hope engine is good, any advice on these settings.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Keep the knock sensor. You need to be running less sensitive setting for the knock. you can apply less sensitive setting using the base file wizard and unticking all options except the least sensitive knock option.
Apply the settings to the file then write it to the car.
You could check the existing settings first and just do a screen grab of the knock settings to see what changes.

1674424714967
 
Thanks for assistance Storm
Took note of what changes were made and then changed them a bit, more in the direction from sensitive to less
.Still no luck, knock causing limp mode.
recorded log of a little burst in 3rd which activated limp mode because of knock,wondering if I have a faulty sensor.
There is a completely different graph pattern between the 2 sensors.
I could try swap them over?
if I disable knock, I still go into limp mode because of over boosting, which I think you said had to do with integrator min and max.
I have not change these yet as just trying to over come one teething problem at a time
Please see attached log.
Kind regards.
 

Attachments

  • Ignitron-ECU-11.zip
    124.4 KB · Views: 71
There is something very funny as you say with the knock sensor readings. The bolt securing them needs to be torqued to 20Nm . If the bolt is loose or too tight this can cause issues. Try swapping them over and make sure the bolt is tightened correctly.
Your boost control isn't right either , not surprising it's overboosting. The Int max setting shouldn't be any higher than the wastegate percentage required to achieve the boost specified. So you are asking for 1.6 bar boost at 5300 rpm and the actual boost is 1.6 bar with the wastegate at 53.6% .
The int max at that point is 70%. You have to get the int max within a few % of what is actually required to allow the controller the best chance of working correctly.


1674676383570

My Int Max map for 1.5 bar is like this. It's 100% at low RPM when the turbo can't make 1.5 bar, and at the point the turbo could make the boost the int max reduces and then stays flat all the way to the top end. Once you have int max set correctly you can set the int min to values about 2/3 of int max. Your Int min values are way too high.



1674676590859

1674676725557
 
Thanks for prompt reply, and Opening my eyes.
Shoo, Played with the int.max,:sob:

As I learn, and think I would like to have a bit more control of a molecule of a feature, I find the Ignitron ECU already has wired into it's DNA, down to the higgs boson foresight.
The Ignitron ECU just keeps blowing me away.
Great forum
 
Got my wife a Subaru Forester 2.0 turbo 2010
I would like to fit an I-ECU as I can see the benefits of having data.
Is this an engine that will be suitable, the not so much the plug n play aspect but the control and features?
 
TrueSoft said:
Got my wife a Subaru Forester 2.0 turbo 2010
I would like to fit an I-ECU as I can see the benefits of having data.
Is this an engine that will be suitable, the not so much the plug n play aspect but the control and features?
Click to expand...
I would have thought the Subaru would have been a GDI engine and not port injection. The CAN protocol would be different as well so it's not going to work I would say.
 
Hi
Changed oil last week and filter, I have been driving car hard for past 2 days and notice engine light blinking, today at idle the red oil light came on. :(
Oil temp is 100 and coolant is 90,
HOT engine at 800 rpm recorded oil pressure is 0.8 bar
I fisrt ran engine in on Penrite classic 15w-50
Then Mobile 3000 5w-40 fully Synthetic
and now on Adtec 5w-30 fully Synthetic
I think idle could be increased, and an inter-cooler fitted will help.
Any suggestions or advice to help will be appreciated,
 
TrueSoft said:
Hi
Changed oil last week and filter, I have been driving car hard for past 2 days and notice engine light blinking, today at idle the red oil light came on. :(
Oil temp is 100 and coolant is 90,
HOT engine at 800 rpm recorded oil pressure is 0.8 bar
I fisrt ran engine in on Penrite classic 15w-50
Then Mobile 3000 5w-40 fully Synthetic
and now on Adtec 5w-30 fully Synthetic
I think idle could be increased, and an inter-cooler fitted will help.
Any suggestions or advice to help will be appreciated,
Click to expand...
Personally I think 5w-30 is too thin for these engines, especially if the engine has been tuned. 800 rpm is also lowish for the idle speed. If you switched to a 10w-40 fully synthetic and upped the idle to 850 rpm you would probably find better oil pressure.
 
desertstorm said:
Personally I think 5w-30 is too thin for these engines, especially if the engine has been tuned. 800 rpm is also lowish for the idle speed. If you switched to a 10w-40 fully synthetic and upped the idle to 850 rpm you would probably find better oil pressure.
Click to expand...
thanks for your valued input.
i bought some liqui 5W-40 and a
Mocal 3/4UNF 1/2BSP Rubber Hose Oil Cooler Kit
16 Row / 80°C Thermostat / 2m
will take some data now and after I fit it over the bank weekend.
I played with the haldex box setting a month ago, tried to put them back because I prefer having ABS/ESP is weather conditions we have here, but it does not kick it at all.
What settings do I need to let the ECU do as it did regards the above before I tinkered with them?
I do not what to back to maps from a month ago!
 
I do not understand the part about Haldex settings. If you tinkered with something then just change back what you altered. You can compare two setting files side by side on a laptop and see what the differences are.
 
I agree 10w-40 is my next purchase.
Got car on ramps when I got home (roads on down hill, loads of hills in Wales, Love it here)
Changed oil.
Drove to Wrexham next day to pick up a bike.
At Idle, 800 RPM, oil pressure was 1.4-1.6Bar.
Happy with the results so far.
Inter-cooler arrived today. I chose the 80 degree thermostat.
hoping to see bigger improvements.
Just loving this car.
iECU is saying 457HP, so far STD gearbox has been perfect. Touch wood.
Filled up with E10 on way back, seems quicker?
 
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Does ignitron have the same defaults as stock ECU? as with AMK and BAM, a flashing EML is a misfire.
 
Stuart B said:
Does ignitron have the same defaults as stock ECU? as with AMK and BAM, a flashing EML is a misfire.
Click to expand...
No, Ignitron has it's own error reporting scheme that you can alter and adjust as you see fit. A lot of it will be similar to what a stock ECU will do. You can download the Ignitron software and have a look at what it does. You don't need an ECU to see what most of the software does.
1681075176472
 
audi upgrades
My original Audi ECU gave me an error code for a failing or fault with coil pack or spark plug number, which helped me solve the problem.
The wiring loom was hard and cracking. I did a repair over a year ago.
Could this be the same issue?
My car is stuttering inconsistently, and sometimes does not miss a beat, I suspect the above. I have also just turned the boost up.
 
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