A3 2.0TDI buyers help?

jjhwk__

Registered User
Joined
Jun 11, 2017
Messages
31
Reaction score
7
Points
8
Hi,

I know this has probably been asked before but I couldn't find anything in the search.

I'm looking at buying a 2007 2.0TDI S-line, the 140 model. Could anyone point me in the right direction of a buyers guide listing different engines/common problems.

IMG 1991


Also do the higher mileage ones have many issues or are they pretty strong? I saw this one earlier on auto trader but it was as 191,000 'motorway miles' :grumpy:
 
Even after a lot of modifications, my experience is the engine is very strong. I'm about to hit 160,000 miles. Obviously a full detailed service history is critical. I'm on my third cam belt and second turbo and flywheel.
 
If it's a BKD engine code there's info about porous cylinder heads, The heads were revised over the years, Original were Type A, Then type B and type C later on, I think the 57 may well be type B but a visual check will confirm, if it's Type C you've literally nothing to worry about

I've had my 53 plate for 5 years and its just hit 130,000, got it with 87,000 on
 
The C revision heads were fitted by the end of the 2006 model year, if not earlier.
My own car is a 56 plate November 2006 (so 2007 model) BKD with a factory C head.
Unless that 57 plate car had hung around for ages before being registered ,which is very unlikely, it'll have a C head.
 
During my 5 year friendship with my 2.0 TDI BKD I had the following issues:

* 2 flywheels changed (alongside clutch pack, pressure plate, etc.)
* turbo refurb
* injectors refurb
* gearbox axial play (used hack-fix 2 times and then sold the car)
* cylinder head replacement to C version (including camshafts, valves and everything that goes inside the cylinder head)

Truth be said, the car had 310 000 km on the clock when I sold it so anything with lower mileage will not have these issues probably and I still think this is a great engine if taken care of.
 
Oil pump is driven from the balance shafts via a hex key which doesn't fit very well and rounds off over time. This leads to the oil pump stopping which means no oil pressure which means a dead engine.

There is a fix which involves a modified balance shaft and longer / stronger hex key. Parts cost £215 + £125 refundable deposit when you return your old balance shaft. Probably take a specialist 4-5 hours in labour.

If you take that into account and get it done immediately after buying you should be fine. That is their main weakness and if done before the failure happens the costs are manageable (about the same price as a timing belt change), but if you leave it and the pump stops due to the shaft rounding then it's new engine + new turbo. So a little preventative maintenance goes a long way!
 
Oil pump is driven from the balance shafts via a hex key which doesn't fit very well and rounds off over time. This leads to the oil pump stopping which means no oil pressure which means a dead engine.

There is a fix which involves a modified balance shaft and longer / stronger hex key. Parts cost £215 + £125 refundable deposit when you return your old balance shaft. Probably take a specialist 4-5 hours in labour.

If you take that into account and get it done immediately after buying you should be fine. That is their main weakness and if done before the failure happens the costs are manageable (about the same price as a timing belt change), but if you leave it and the pump stops due to the shaft rounding then it's new engine + new turbo. So a little preventative maintenance goes a long way!

This is on A4 engines which are longitudinally mounted, A3 doesn't have this issue as the engine is mounted transversely and has a different system regarding oil pump.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mario
Didn't know that. Though it was the exact same engine just turned 90*, could be wrong though.
 

Similar threads

Replies
3
Views
639
Replies
6
Views
1K
Replies
6
Views
1K
NHN
Replies
6
Views
968