The 8p class

[ch1z64]

Now this might be a question without an straight forward answer and I guess I will try and explain it to it the best I can.
Now we have certain older cars that bits fit younger cars ie 2011 back lights fit 2009 so is it safe to assume that cars model and age the same could mean ECU would be the same , so if someone had no faults on any off there modules after doing an Auto Scan that the other person who has same MY could use the others as a comparison for the codes if he has faults as i think the codes show when you save the info from Auto Scan.
Sorry if this is long winded thanks in advance

 

[Darren92]

so if someone had no faults on any off there modules after doing an Auto Scan that the other person who has same MY could use the others as a comparions for the codes if he has faults as i think the codes show when you save the info from Auto Scan.

expand and explain a bit better? what do you mean by "comparisons for the codes"?

 

[ch1z64]

i was thinking i had explained as clear as i could but i guess i didn' t. if the other person with the same model and year. if he did an auto scan and had no faults would the person with faults be able to use it to compare there faults to his non fault scan and then use his codes to see if that fixes the faults on the other perons

 

[Darren92]

What would there be to compare? One vehicle has a fault code, one doesn't. If the fault is still present in the vehicle and a controller is swapped into it, the fault will still show.

 

[ch1z64]

well if i punched in the codes on the modules that the person with no faults has would this help my faults after i accepted them and drove for a few days and then did an auto scan. thats is what i mean but my earlier post was to give as much info as i could

 

[Darren92]

What do you mean by "punched in"? You can get yourself into a lot of hassle swapping random controllers.

 

[ch1z64]

typed in his codes , but i would still have a copy off my codes so what i will do is try it and report back if it works or not

 

[Darren92]

Typed in his codes where? I'm trying to help you here but you aren't making it very easy for me to do so as you aren't explaining clearly what you're wanting or trying to do.

 

[ch1z64]

personally i think i have explained as easy as i can but will have one more try.
Now some off my modules ie 37 nav has a fault but the other peraon has non so if i change my code to his code.

 

[Darren92]

What is this "code" you're referring to? The coding of the unit?

What is the fault code present? It would've been easier starting with that.

 

[ch1z64]

but i am not asking for help with the fault code as i no what it is and i asked in another post about doing Aux the replies where excellent but once i asked again about the pin 7 ( bose wire ) all went quiet as no explaination waa given to why i was moving it to 6 av ground baffled me

 

[Darren92]

I'm totally lost now, I give up.

Why would you move the bose pin to the 32pin connector?

 

[-Ju-]

I know what you mean but it isn't honestly as simple as that.
I take it the coding your comparing to is from my old MY10 S3?
The coding is specific to an individual car and is dependant on what options are fitted to that particular vehicle.
If the options in each module across the 2 cars are the same then yes the coding will match. If your car has different options then they will not
If you can give me an idea of the modules in question, I can tell you what options were on my old car for that coding

 

[ch1z64]

Right OK you never said that

B1 -----------> 22
B3 -----------> 21
B7 -----------> 06

B being the blue connector on the quadlock.
Now the pin that is in Blue block 7 is the Bose pin well was in my car so when i moved that to 06 in the av , then when i asked back in the Aux post no one could explain why

 

[Darren92]

Right OK you never said that

B1 -----------> 22
B3 -----------> 21
B7 -----------> 06

B being the blue connector on the quadlock.
Now the pin that is in Blue block 7 is the Bose pin well was in my car so when i moved that to 06 in the av , then when i asked back in the Aux post no one could explain why

You must be reading the plug wrong, Pin 7 is AUX-R .. Pin 1 is AUX-L and Pin 3 is AUX-Ground

 

[ch1z64]

I know what you mean but it isn't honestly as simple as that.
I take it the coding your comparing to is from my old MY10 S3?
The coding is specific to an individual car and is dependant on what options are fitted to that particular vehicle.
If the options in each module across the 2 cars are the same then yes the coding will match. If your car has different options then they will not
If you can give me an idea of the modules in question, I can tell you what options were on my old car for that coding

thats excatly what i am asking Ju and thought i kinda had explained it in my first post , there is a god out there after all lol

 

[Darren92]

thats excatly what i am asking Ju and thought i kinda had explained it in my first post , there is a god out there after all lol

See my post above.

 

[ch1z64]

You must be reading the plug wrong, Pin 7 is AUX-R .. Pin 1 is AUX-L and Pin 3 is AUX-Ground

nope reqd it correctly , i have 4 pins im mine 1 , 3 5, 7 now if i mind correctly yellow was 3 green was 1 Grey was 7 brown was in 5 . so i followed instructions given t

o the letter and then queried why i was moving 7 to 6 on av and no one came up with the with the explaination

 

[Darren92]

nope reqd it correctly , i have 4 pins im mine 1 , 3 5, 7 now if i mind correctly yellow was 3 green was 1 Grey was 7 brown was in 5 . so i followed instructions given ro the letter and then queried why i was moving 7 to 6 on av and no one came up with the with the explaination

You only need to move 3 pins from the blue connector, Pin 1, 3 & 7.

 

[ch1z64]

I know what you mean but it isn't honestly as simple as that.
I take it the coding your comparing to is from my old MY10 S3?
The coding is specific to an individual car and is dependant on what options are fitted to that particular vehicle.
If the options in each module across the 2 cars are the same then yes the coding will match. If your car has different options then they will not
If you can give me an idea of the modules in question, I can tell you what options were on my old car for that coding

You only need to move 3 pins from the blue connector, Pin 1, 3 & 7.

View attachment 131658

 

[Darren92]

Update your VCDS, its out of date.

What do you want us to do with the autoscan anyway?

After digesting this thread and your others and trying to make sense of it all, if BOSE is fitted when retrofitting a RNSE from a Concert headunit, you need to move Pin 5 from the Blue connector to Pin 7, ONCE you have removed the wires applicable to AUX to the 32pin connector.

The lack of grammar formatting in your threads makes them frustrating to read so information can be misinterpreted at times. If you would've been clear and transparent at the start in your initial posts, this could've been cleared up in 5 minutes.

 

[samuelh_888]

I couldn't really follow the initial post however the latter posts make more sense.

I recently completed this on my non-bose A3 - exactly as @Darren92 mentions above. However, (remembering I was non-Bose) I believe the 4th pin would be for Bose, which needs to be moved from 5 to 7. It will still work without but you won't be getting the 'Bose' effect.

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...-its-already-in-use-with-another-wire.156578/

 

[-Ju-]

If you go through all the modules with faults in and check the coding is correct for each ( there is a coding helper to assist you when you do this).
Clear all existing faults and then report back

 

[ch1z64]

Update your VCDS, its out of date.

What do you want us to do with the autoscan anyway?

After digesting this thread and your others and trying to make sense of it all, if BOSE is fitted when retrofitting a RNSE from a Concert headunit, you need to move Pin 5 from the Blue connector to Pin 7, ONCE you have removed the wires applicable to AUX to the 32pin connector.

The lack of grammar formatting in your threads makes them frustrating to read so information can be misinterpreted at times. If you would've been clear and transparent at the start in your initial posts, this could've been cleared up in 5 minutes.

i did eventually move 5 to 7 and i thought i mentioned i did have full bose if not i apologise . As for this post someone understood it and i did say i would explain as good as i could cause as i well know things get lost in translation

 

[Darren92]

i did eventually move 5 to 7 and i thought i mentioned i did have full bose if not i apologise . As for this post someone understood it and i did say i would explain as good as i could cause as i well know things get lost in translation

Just in future, be more transparent in what information you're needing, be direct to the point is the easist way.

 

[ch1z64]

if i had said if someone with no faults in the same make model and age as my car would i be able to use them in my car , to me would be more confusing , so i was trying to give as much info as i could but as i said i know so well how things get lost in translation .
The other subject off the Aux what would the grey wire be that was in pin 7 on the blue block if the brown was the bose as i am totally baffled as the Aux works but very tinny .

 

[samuelh_888]

Grey was probably Aux R channel.

If it's tinny make sure you've wires the correct way in the 32pin adapter. And, is the coding correct?

 

[ch1z64]

all wires where moved correctly from blue block as instructed by other members and still sounds tinny but no worries will just put them back into the place in blue block where i took them out off lucky i took pics . But thanks for advice

 

[ch1z64]

i have went out to car this morning and taken a pic off the wire diagram on my Rnse mk2 and it is totally different from the 1 shown here now i am not saying that the 1 shown isn't the correct 1 for an 8p ( if i remember the mechanic who coded it to car said it was out off a A4 ) but if you read the diagram you will see i had a wire in the K-line pln now again i am not sure if it was meant to be there or not . Any comments on why it would be there i would be more than happy to hear as reading through Vcd's i think K- line has something to with that part off the car .

 

[samuelh_888]

The diagram you posted is different to what was on the 2011 RNSE I retrofitted into my (previous) A3. Your's has a date of 2014 but I'm not sure if this is manufacturer date or what. Where did you get the RNSE from, what vehicle is it from?

Looking on Google I can't see a great deal about the K-Line wire for the 8P but it's mentioned many times specifically on the A4 forums. Take a look at the 2nd post in http://audiforum.us/threads/bns-to-rns-e-help-with-wiring-bose-and-k-line.7696/. It's a US A4 site but there is mention of the 8P.

What I gather is, the K-Line isn't required for the 8P as diagnostics (for the RNSE) is taken from the CAN. For the A4, diagnostics is taken from the K-Line - maybe you can get away without having it but I can't confirm sorry

 

[ch1z64]

Because off my inexperience i thought all Rns-e Mk2's where all the same but i am findimg out by using google there not , so i really just posted the picture due to some thinking i might have not read the diagram on the back right .