Finally got all my gauges working!
I think they look awesome!!
Shifting from 1-3 ... can’t push the rest too high hence the early shifting. Shifting just as boost comes on strong... except that first one
not really the right way to go about it... you need to build a bit of boost and load to help bed the rings in... just don't rev it out...in break-in period it's good to keep the 3000RPM range.. for safety purposes
Yes sir, yes sir! my misconception. Well i break-in my engine with my k04 and ye first 500miles we're sensible, it's actually fun because i knew i'm limited so, rev it all the time till 100km/h super fast and stick there.not really the right way to go about it... you need to build a bit of boost and load to help bed the rings in... just don't rev it out...
All setups are different... boost depends on what setup you are using... on some you won't even see boost at 3k...
Should be no more than actuator pressure and give the engine a chance to load up with a bit of boost so it helps force the ring against the home marks... most of the running in is done in the first 50-100 miles... but you keep it sensible for the first 500 at least before changing the oil for synthetic..
<tuffty/>
Great look, good job!
As far i know (and what i actually did and couple of friends around me) in break-in period it's good to keep the 3000RPM range.. for safety purposes.
I'm just wondering between Prosport premium series with the white needle or go Stack for mine.... one of the last inside the interior things i have to do and can't make decision.
Was out driving last night, some on the freeway, then the rest on the highway hitting that boost onset area + stop start at traffic lights. Still getting g used to the new clutch & habevsralked a couple times. lolnot really the right way to go about it... you need to build a bit of boost and load to help bed the rings in... just don't rev it out...
All setups are different... boost depends on what setup you are using... on some you won't even see boost at 3k...
Should be no more than actuator pressure and give the engine a chance to load up with a bit of boost so it helps force the ring against the home marks... most of the running in is done in the first 50-100 miles... but you keep it sensible for the first 500 at least before changing the oil for synthetic..
<tuffty/>
Remember we work in KM’s not miles in the land of convicts and imports.Hell yeh
Lol, one question - How you run 1000cc without tune? Isn't that way too rich i think that gonna wash your cylinders.I have some big timing pull going on... sad times! BUT lucky I have actually logged the car and seen this before any massive damage happens. Have been keeping things pretty tame for now due to NOT wanting to break the engine...
View attachment 139901
and i'm tending to lean out as things begin to get a little intense
View attachment 139902
some other issues
- pretty sure there is a boost leak(s) somewhere as when i was pushing it to higher PSI i would hear a POP just as i let off throttle. Already changed one clamp at the MAP pipe side of the DV which was weak... now just to find the rest!
- i have two small coolant leaks where i've re-used the OEM clamps on the silicone coolant hoses
... i need a dyno tune...
Lol, one question - How you run 1000cc without tune? Isn't that way too rich i think that gonna wash your cylinders.
I'm currently waiting mine to start work in progress and when all been finished, i'm afraid to drive mine 10KM to the tuner with 550cc.
That light bulb moment eh???! LOL when first replying to your posts on FB I always thought “must be prawn from ASN”I've only just realised who you are
Have definitely stayed up waaay too long... but the cockpit is complete.
4.2 l/100km? how on earth?????