It runs out the back of the cluster, behind the stereo & glovebox then trough the firewall grommet. Down the loom wiring channel behind the headlight and about 10cm in of the wiring corrugated cover stuff.How did you route the wire for the boost pressure to the map sensor? Did you heat wrap aswell?
Yeah I don't fancy soldering on pcb board if I can get the clocks back so I don't have to open them up again if he happy and if I didn't see your post on that sight I would of never new I'd have to do that
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Yay i can count to 4
They don't look that bad?
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Oh wait... sorry i take that back!
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This explains where the metal chippings came from... 2 & 3 are proper rooted!
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Bore #3 has a chunk missing from it's bottom too.
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Is the block re usable???
Otherwise does anyone know if the AGN block (N/A 1.8) is suitable? There are a couple of places i know that has them...
Where on the bore is that notch? I'm pretty sure the piston doesn't use the entire stroke of the bore. Fit the straightest rod/piston you have and rotate the crank and see.
Sleeving isn't an option on a iron block that can be bored out, easier, cheaper.
Sleeving tends to be done on alloy blocks or blocks with open decks
It's right at the bottom. Goes up about 1cm. Looks like the rod wanted to say hello to the block ... but just a tad roughly. Lol
I can see a mark on all cyclone era which I'm assuming are the ring's stop point... which is a good 1.5-2 inches away from the top of the triangle shaped chip
What do you reckon @superkarl ?
1.9litres? Hmmm...
Yip stroker it is by the looks of it!! AWESOME!! One of theee best mod I did I rate! Low down power is just so much better... I went with a 82.5mm bore( therefore I still have a choice to go over size 82.7mm if anything happens.. touch wood)with wossner stroker pistons.wouldn't recommend 83mm unless you intend tracking it
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yeah going stroker - i thought "look i'm going to bore it anyway.... i'm going to have to get new pistons because two of them are chipped" do i go 1.9T?
I asked old mate Gordie (he's got his silver S3 on here somewhere) if he knew someone with a 2.0L crank - turns out he had a spare. Got it at a good price plus borrowed the crank bolt locking tool. Nekminit stroker.
I'm thinking high compression for better down low response to go along with the gtx2871r ceramic BB i've got waiting in the wings.
Shopping list for the block so far
ARP flywheel
ARP crank bolt
oil gear sprocket
ARP main studs - align hone is required here i think?
acl main bearings
supertech 9.5:1 pistons
oil pump, chain, tensioner
squirters and bolts
Work to be done on the block
bore
hone
linish crank
balance rotating assembly
Anything else i've missed???
@SamHendry - just biting things off chunks at a time - i need to get her back on the road she's my daily so i need the car again to have some form of social life... but for now... heads down, work on! LOL
Ian so your block is salvageable ?
You've cut quite a lot with that bur on the divider. If you have flap wheels or anything less cutty, more abrasive, you won't have to remove so much (and risk ******* up), and can instead refine things with the sanding wheels etc. Get the exhaust as smooth as possible.
I tapered my inlets as much as possible.
The main benefits are on the bowl areas of the ports and behind the seats. Apparently.
Set of spring calipers would help you out in getting every port close
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you are doing amazing work as usual Ian - after you do this massive rebuild are you still going to run your car with the pops and bangs switched on?
I thought I would do one, stop and get some feedback. Thanks for the insight!
I have definitely made sure to use the spring calipers on each of the exhaust runners before the divider so they are even. Will be using the sanding rolls/wheels for the area behind the seat as I think my burrs are a bit large anyway.
Think I'm going to try knife edging the intake ports too... gunna take forever but since stuff takes so long to get here I might as well.
Yes it will stay. Will just make sure not to use NLS about 15 times within 20 minutes
Yeah I've been studying that thread a lot.Andrew has a couple threads on his port jobs you could maybe have a look at to see how he does things
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I Found this re: camshaft info
Intake shaft
058109021 = ADR AFY (with tensioner) 8.78 mm, 210 °, 4 ° n.OT
058109021.B = APX, ANB, AEB, APU, AJL, AGU, AQA, ARZ, AJQ, APP, APY, AUL 7.67 mm, 190 °, 18 ° n.OT
058109021.K = ADR, APT, ARG, AVV 8.41 mm, 202 °, 16 ° n.OT
058109021.M = AWT, AUM, ARX, ARY, AUQ, AMK, BAM, AUL, APP 7.67 mm, 190 °, 18 ° n.OT
058109021.F = AGN, APG 8.41 mm, 202 °, 18 ° after OT
058109021.E AWB = 8.6 mm, 207 °, 9 ° n.OT
OT 058109021.D = ADR, AGN 8.41 mm, 202 °, 12 ° after OT
Outlet
058109022.B = AQA, ARZ, AJQ, APP, APY, AEB, APU, ANB, AJL, AWT, AGU, AUM, ARX, ARY, AUQ, AMK, BAM 9.3 mm, 210 °, 10 ° v.OT
058109022.C = ADR, AFY, APT, ARG, AVV 10.25 mm, 210 °, 8 ° v.OT
058109022.D = AGN, APG 10.4 mm, 210 °, 8 ° v.OT
Its lift (mm), duration (degrees) and valve opening time (degrees after TDC)thats like spanish to me, what does it mean ? cam lobe differences ?
I can translate spanish, but not thatthats like spanish to me, what does it mean ? cam lobe differences ?