Driveshaft differences

expat2000

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Hi all

A question for the gurus!

I have a 98 A4 (b5, pre facelift) 1.9 TDI (AFN) 2WD 4 speed auto (01N).

Due to a failed CV joint the end of the RH driveshaft is looking worse for wear so I am planning on replacing it with a second hand driveshaft complete with CV joints.

According to parts base there are multiple part numbers for the driveshafts:

http://www.partsbase.org/audi/audi-a4-avant-a4-eu-1998-40720-drive-shaft-see-parts-bulletin/




8D0407272AC drive shaft with constant; velocity joints; right; tripodic; 130MM; 4-speed; automatic:; ADR,AHH,AHU,; AFY,AFN,AHL;

8D0407272DM drive shaft with constant; velocity joints; right; tripodic; 130MM; 4-speed; automatic:; ADR,AHH,AHU,; AFY,AFN,AHL;

8D0407272BE drive shaft with constant; velocity joints; right; tripodic; 130MM; 4-speed; automatic:; ADR,AHH,AHU,; AFY,AFN,AHL;

8D0407452DX drive shaft with constant; velocity joints; right; tripodic; 130MM; 4-speed; automatic:; ADR,AHH,AHU,; AFY,AFN,AHL; http://www.partsbase.org/audi/audi-a4-avant-a4-eu-1998-40720-drive-shaft-see-parts-bulletin/

So the questions are:
a) any idea of what the differences are and which one fits my car?
b) Can I use any of the 4 listed above?
b) do I need the driveshaft specifically for my engine/gearbox combo, or just the gearbox, or neither e.g. can I use one from a petrol 4 speed auto?

Most online sellers specify manual only so I presume that the auto box driveshafts differ from the manual boxes (which makes sense) but does the petrol differ from the diesel?

Any advice or hints or tips would be great.

Thanks

Stuart
 
some petrols differ from some diesels for sure, the bigger torquier engines got bigger drivetrain parts, CV's/shafts etc are chunkier on diesels for instance.

Looking in ETKA, a lot of the numbers you've posted have been superceded as a part number. Theres also a chassis number cutoff for some reason, and three different live part numbers for the 1.9TDI engines.

All makes it kinda difficult to see what one actually fits the car :(

Can you see if the part number is visible on the shaft you already have? Quite often they are.
 
Aragorn,
Thanks for the info, hopefully I'll be pulling the shaft off this evening so I'll have a good look at it to see if its got a visible part number.
Could the chassis number cut-off be a pre-facelift vs facelift difference as they changed mid-98? Mine is a PFL.
 
Hello again,

I pulled the old shaft yesterday and the outer end is quite badly ground down where it came out of the CV joint so its scrap. I also noticed that the inner joint boot is held on with zip ties so its at least been apart before. I am pretty suspicious about the lateral play in the inner joint and think it may be a contributing factor to the problem. No visible part number on the shaft but no Audi markings either so fairly sure its not original, not unexpected with 280k km on the clock. Is anyone able to confirm the part number based on my VIN? I'll try the Audi spares garage on my way home tonight to see if they'll help.

Anyway going for a new shaft, long searches on the net and have found a company with reasonable shipping charges and that wont charge me local sales tax which compensates for having to pay import duty.

All in (part+post+import) comes to just over 1150NoK (£90, $140, 125Euros) which is a no brainer compared to the local scrap yards at 1000NoK.

Will take a week to get here but I'm happier to be fitting a new complete unit.

Cheers

Stuart
 
All

Thanks so much for the help.

I went into the local dealership yesterday and was told that they don't give out part numbers for specific cars, policy apparently!

However I had a bit a result from a mail I sent to Audi Norway. with that and information I got from this and other forums I have now compiled the following:

Original part: 8D0 407 272DM - source two forums and facebook group

Later superceded by: 8D0 407 272AC - source Audi and one forum

Replacement/remanufactured/rebuilt 8D0 407 452DX - source Audi, one forum and facebook group

So a broad agreement and should be enough to order a new aftermarket one, hurrah!

Hopefully this post may be of use to someone else in future
Thanks again

Stuart
 
Your first part number supercedes to 272AC like you say, but thats showing as a live number.

452DX is also showing as a live number.

Maybe the only difference is 272AC is new, and 452DX is exchange?

Bit odd, as usually an exchange part simply has the same number as the normal part but with an X on the end.

Personally, i'd let the motorfactor your buying it from select the correct part using whatever system they use. If they give you the wrong shaft, its their fault and they'll have to fix it. If you ASK for the wrong shaft, they can then get arsey and start wanting restocking fees etc.
 
Aragorn, I'm sure you've got it spot on.

The problem I am having is using overseas suppliers for the shaft so there system wont recognise the registration number (expected that) or the VIN. I gave them all three part numbers and they said that all of them corresponded to the same part in their inventory so I'm confident that it will be fine. I double checked the external dimensions as well just to be sure.

I also save the online chat that I was using to ask them so I have some comeback :)

Part should be here end of next week, will fit it over the weekend (its only 8 bolts to fit it) and back on the road, just in time for 2 year vehicle inspection.

Cheers
 
good work.

I tried to make a start on the front suspension on our avant today, and stopped before i started when i managed to break my 1/2" breaker bar trying to undo the driveshaft nut
 
good work.

I tried to make a start on the front suspension on our avant today, and stopped before i started when i managed to break my 1/2" breaker bar trying to undo the driveshaft nut

Ooh not good, the hub nuts on mine came off quite easily with my breaker bar, impact bit and a six foot extension pole on the breaker!

The pinch bolts....now that's a different story. If you haven't had them out recently then be prepared for much time, violence and cursing. And buy new ones as the chances are they'll be wrecked when they finally come out.

:)

Stuart
 
It was all apart about 3 years ago, and the pinch bolts were liberally greased so hopefully they'll come out. That said, the uprights arent going back on, as i've new ones to fit, so it wont matter much if they are siezed.

Breaker bar plus 6ft pole is what i used too, and the ****** square drive sheared right off the end of the breaker bar knuckle!

I've ordered a 3/4" drive breaker bar and matching 17mm socket, so hopefully that will do the job!
 
Arrived in the post yesterday....7 work days for delivery (international) from ordering, as expected.

20151006_213811_zps0r3znzlv.jpg


Looks nice, even included a new hub bolt which I wasn't expecting, fitting this evening.

All in including delivery and import duty 1120NoK (£90, $136)
 
Winner. I've just paid £180 for four new CV joints for the Front, so pretty decent price for a pre-assembled shaft!
 
That sounds like a good price as well. Cheapest I could find locally was 800Nok just for an outer joint (£64) but the shaft end was chewed up so no option than to replace the unit.
Breakers here wanted 1000Nok (£80) for a used unit and none local so would have been postage on top as well.
I don't need the car day to day so it's a no brainer to buy new from overseas. It was from Dublin of all places.
 

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