Well, only you know your own abilities - and what tools etc you have - and of course where you're having to work on the car (a driveway is easier than the street - - ) but ultimately both these jobs are essentially about undoing some bolts / screws and some electrical connectors which really isn't a million miles removed from taking out the rear light cluster.
If nothing else, by getting at the flap motor you would identify it as the problem - or not - and if it is faulty, then if nothing else you could disconnect the linkage and set the flap to whatever position is giving you screen demist.
I learned whatever limited mechanic skills I have by having to do jobs on my vehicles as (a) I actually like doing them, and (b) not having the money to pay someone else to do them. I frequently justified buying tools over the years on the basis that doing so meant I then had the tool for next time, and it usually worked out cheaper to buy the kit - and, if necessary, the manuals, than pay someone else.
I started doing simple jobs on Land-Rovers (which I was into back in the day) and gradually progressed to more complex jobs on them. Then, when I was a mature student in my late 40's, with no money and running an old Rover 800 I had no choice but to do a cylinder-head-off job to deal with the after effects of a broken cam-belt. Hardly in the league of some of the work people outline "here", but it was very satisfying to have the thing start and run properly at the first turn of the key once it was all back together! It would never have been an economic repair at a garage as the job would have cost more than the car was worth. The AA mechanic even asked me which scrap yard I wanted the car taken to when they came to recover it from the roadside
Yes, I had to use an engineering company to deal with some of the damage, but the amount of labour involved was considerable - and that's soooo often the killer - as you know.
Even when I did have the money to pay someone, I'd often do the work myself, but I also accept that at that point the Landy was essentially a toy and not my only vehicle. These days, I have to try and find a balance between the two as the Audi is my daily drive and living in the country I cannot risk having a vehicle in bits when I then can't use.
Even replacing the brake dics and pads recently was a bit of a risk for me, and at one stage I thought I was going to have to call in help. That was, as is so often the case, down to not having the right bit of kit - and of course a car in bits. It all ended well, and rather than paying National Tyres nearly £300 (outrageous price to change discs and pads!) the job cost me marginally under £100 and a couple of hours in total, and that included faffing around getting the blasted piston to retract as I found I didn't have a big enough G clamp and ended up fiddling around with an engineers vice - the Landy brake pistons just pushed back by hand - the Audi's weren't going to play that game for me.
People often malign the Haynes manuals, but they've saved me a lot of money over the years, and these days of course so much info is available on-line. For the Landy, I had acquired the proper workshop manuals - and boy were they helpful.
I appreciate this isn't the practical help you are seeking - but I can only give you on-line suggestions, and moral support. The only other comment I can offer is that in the world of Land-Rovers, lots of us worked on our vehicles, so there was always someone around to help with advice and/or provide access to specialist kit. Perhaps there is a "car club" or similar in your part of the world who may be able to help - or eventually you'll hook up with someone via "here" who will assist in return for some liquid reimbursement for their time and expertise.
Finally - my (very good, generally) garage charges £30 or so ph - my local Audi dealer more like £100! Guess where I go?
