Drive belt tenstioner pully

[matt blowen]

Hi guys would any of you know where i can a buy just the pully for my tenstioner? I dont want to buy a whole new one, thanks

 

[<tuffty/>]

The pulley for the tensioner damper?

<tuffty/>

 

[matt blowen]

Yes m8 for AGU, i dont see the point in changing it all because it in good condition apart from the bearing

 

[s3dave]

You mean the damper?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Yes m8 for AGU, i dont see the point in changing it all because it in good condition apart from the bearing

Don't kid yourself dude... these never get changed as part of the dealer cam belt swap as a rule and I have seen them fail shortly after.. I always change it... it may look ok but the damper sinks a little over time and can cause the belt to hop off.. had a friend have a belt go because of this... dealer did all the head swap work and DIDN'T replace the tensioner damper... left there making a ting ting ting noise which was the tensioner pulley bouncing off the collapsed damper...

Mine sunk a bit after 20k miles so I changed it... false economy IMO

<tuffty/>

 

[matt blowen]

Ok thanks for the advice... Ill get a compltete new one then cheers 👍

 

[RobinJI]

Are you talking about the tensioner for the cam belt or the auxiliary drive belt that runs the alternator/PAS/AC?

I'd have no problem just changing the actual pulley for the aux belt tensioner, in fact I'd love to do it on my car as I feel ripped off by how much the full tensioners cost. If you mean the cam-belt one though, then yeah, as the others said, just change the lot.

I'm curious as to whether the internal water pump engines can be converted to a fixed tensioner as easily as the external water pump ones can. Halves the cost of a cam-belt change, and it's never going to jump off as there's no moving parts to go wrong.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Are you talking about the tensioner for the cam belt or the auxiliary drive belt that runs the alternator/PAS/AC?

I'd have no problem just changing the actual pulley for the aux belt tensioner, in fact I'd love to do it on my car as I feel ripped off by how much the full tensioners cost. If you mean the cam-belt one though, then yeah, as the others said, just change the lot.

I'm curious as to whether the internal water pump engines can be converted to a fixed tensioner as easily as the external water pump ones can. Halves the cost of a cam-belt change, and it's never going to jump off as there's no moving parts to go wrong.

You can fit a manual tensioner... in fact thats what I am doing to my new engine build... its a little different on 06A engine to 058's... the 058's cam pulleys are closer in to the head but 06A's stick out a bit...

IE do a kit that replaces the damper and contains a spacer a for a 16v pulley...

I have ordered just the spacer though as I have used an old damper and have removed the internals as you still need to retian the smaller roller to keep the belt at the right angle for the cam pulley

<tuffty/>

 

[RobinJI]

Cool, not far off as easy then, interesting. On my 058 I've ditched the roller as well, so the belt run's the same as on a 16v. Is there anything stopping you doing the same? I've actually got a 1.6td tensioner on mine rather than a 16v one, they appear to be identical, other than the 1.6td one being cheaper.

 

[<tuffty/>]

The idea behind the damper roller is to keep as much of the belt wrapped around the pulleys as possible to prevent it jumping off... this is particularly important when running uprated valvetrain, cams and high rpm as I will be on my setup... all this adds load to the cam belt setup and this is why its advisable to go manual tensioner in this case as the damper can compress under load causing the belt to jump...

<tuffty/>

 

[RobinJI]

Ah cool, I'm not sure what difference it makes on the 06A, on mine it was only pushing it a few degrees and made a very minimal difference to the wrap around, on the crank-pully, and obviously none on the cam pulley because of the tensioner. The 16v lumps seem to work fine without and some people are revving them crazily high. I see your point about keeping it though, it's not going to hurt, but I'd suspect the reasoning for fitting it was more just to clear the tensioner, and to prevent a large run of unsupported belt from flapping around with the sprung tensioner than it was to maximize wrap around. Maybe I'm just making excuses to reassure myself though, as I couldn't keep it on mine as there's an engine mount in the way.

Anyway, sorry for dragging things off-topic, but I've leaned something at least!