2.0TDi Oil Pump / Balancer shaft problems - the definitive guide! Audi VW Skoda SEAT

Correct it's twice engine speed .

It's purely down to poor engineering .

Primarily a hex keyway problem in the balancer shaft .

Contact length , keyway bore not hexagonal , off center , materials not hard enough etc .
 
Ok cool, cheers.

I was just thinking cold oil at high rpm would create more resistance and strain on the parts.

I've nannied this car since i've had it. Never go over 2K revs until warmed up, i very rarely strain the engine.

Next week i'm having it stripped down and replaced with the Re-engineered kit so i'll post a pic of the Hex key wear at 100,500 miles.

to be continued..
 
Jon-D said:
Can anyone help on my first (big) post?

Cheers.
Click to expand...
They started to fit an upgraded oil pump at the start of 2010. My car (CBBB 170 BHP engine) was registered Feb 2010 and has the upgraded version
 
audi upgrades
Hi new to forum,having just bought an a6 c6 07 model bre engine and reading the comments on the oil pump problems scare me. It has full Audi service history and the only service receipt I have states repair kit A03g 198 119 b, could I assume this is the amendment kit for the oil pump.it is the 2ltr engine .
 
I wouldn't assume anything re oil pumps - most owners will be blissfully unaware of the issues and cars will change hands with nothing done about it...
 
You could always do balance shaft delete?
 
Hammy44 said:
What's balance shaft delete
Click to expand...
Hi,
As I'm sure you know the balance shafts are an integral part of the oil pump mechanism in the vag 2.0 tdi engines.
A balance shaft delete is when you remove the original oil pump which incorporates the balance shafts and replace it with an earlier oil pump which does not include the balance shafts. Therefore there is no additional strain on the pump, all it does is pump the oil and it'll last an age.
I did it myself on my BLB engine which had done around 200k miles, I didn't feel it was worth spending the money on a new upgraded balance shaft unit which at the time was about £1k to buy. Oh and it'll give you a little bit more power.
It is quite involved but if you like a challenge it's quite satifying when complete.
What you do is remove the balance shaft oil pump, change the sprocket on the drive shaft, renew the chain, add an oil tray, add an oil pick up pipe and tap a oil supply hole on the block and add the oil pump with no balance shafts.
I did have to trim a bit of the sump on the blb engine and slightly adjust the oil pick up pipe to finish the job bit I think the other 2.0 tdi's have a different sump and no adjustment is needed. Now I have no worries with it failing!

Audi dealers will not do this, but an independent should or you can do it yourself, it was done a lot in the US.
Hope that helps
Stu
 
Definitely less work , the BLB chain driven probably didn't have a remanufactured gear driven conversion back then either .
 
You could still opt for the delete if you have the chain driven 2.0 vag and if you feel it is not worth buying an upgraded 'gear drive' balance shaft pump. I would not keep the chain drive if I was keeping a balance shaft oil pump, solely for the fact there is a lot of extra force moving the balance shafts and I wouldn't trust a chain. You've just got to weigh up the time it'll take to do, how much the car is worth and whether you can afford the upgrade kit.
 
Audi denial BS .

The BRE does have an oil pump drive issue as it has a 77mm hex drive key .
 
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Hello guys!
I'm new here. If you're kind to help me: i have an Audi A5 2012 177ps 2.0 tdi CGLC.
Does my engine still have the oil pump/balance shaft problem?
From my forums in my country i red that this problem is still on as to 2014 engines...
The balance shaft/hex problem.
Some people told me that the problem was fixed on the 177ps engine, after year 2011...
I have 191k km, don't know what to do fur sure.
Thanks in advance!

ps: sorry i've posted here, but on the a5 section didn't find any discussion regardind the oil pump
 
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I wouldn't of thought there was an issue.

It was originally an issue from 2004 that indeed went on for far too long that didn't come back on VAG , but then karma caught up..
 
BogdanGancea said:
Hello guys!
I'm new here. If you're kind to help me: i have an Audi A5 2012 177ps 2.0 tdi CGLC.
Does my engine still have the oil pump/balance shaft problem?
From my forums in my country i red that this problem is still on as to 2014 engines...
The balance shaft/hex problem.
Some people told me that the problem was fixed on the 177ps engine, after year 2011...
I have 191k km, don't know what to do fur sure.
Thanks in advance!

ps: sorry i've posted here, but on the a5 section didn't find any discussion regardind the oil pump
Click to expand...

VW / Audi changed the design in February 2010. So your car (2012) will be fine, it has the new 100mm hex shaft design.
 
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T
Benten69 said:
VW / Audi changed the design in February 2010. So your car (2012) will be fine, it has the new 100mm hex shaft design.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for your answer.
I hope to be as you say. :)
If you have more info or a link.....
Some say that are still issues with some pinion....
 
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Hi guys,

I have a 2005 Audi A6 2 litre S Line and had the cambelt and water pump done on it a few weeks back... when I picked it up the mechanic mentioned a funny noise but couldn't say where it was coming from but to be aware that something may crop up in the near future.
Lo and behold the next day I get the red low oil pressure warning light comes up! I rang the mechanic and we did some research to find that it's more than likely this oil pump and balancer shaft issue! I sorned it straight away and it's been sat on the drive way ever since as I simply cannot afford the £2000 + I've been quoted to get it fixed.
After reading through this thread I'm wondering what you guys think I should do as I've seen a couple of kits mentioned on here for a fraction of the price of an entire oil pump and balancer shaft!
Many thanks for any help/opinions.

Jonno
 
In my country, in Romania, they are some services where they rebuilt the balancer and new hex for less than 100 euros. On the same oil pump.
 
Well if you've got the time and somewhere to do it then you could do it yourself, that would save you a far bit of money.
There is a detailed description in Elsawin showing how to remove the oil pump and how to install a new uprated gear driven pump. Obviously if you already have the gear driven then it's just a matter of removing the old pump and changing the hex shaft.
In my opinion if the mechanic heard a noise then it's likely that its chain driven and the tensioner has snapped.
It's a shame that they didn't upgrade the pump when they did the cam belt and water pump as the belt will have to come off again.
What the engine code?
 
Yes I know, he had no idea what the noise was though unfortunately.
I've just checked and the engine code is BLB.
I have no space, tools or the knowledge to do anything like this to be honest.
 
Best consider a chain to geared aftermarket remanufactured modified conversion complete module £625 .
 
That's a lot cheaper than the £1500 I was quoted from TPS and Audi!
 
Does anyone know if I can move my car (with oil pump failure) by pushing if off the drive instead of driving it off, without causing further damage?
Thanks
 
jdw88rm said:
Does anyone know if I can move my car (with oil pump failure) by pushing if off the drive instead of driving it off, without causing further damage?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes you can. You can even tow it behind a car, as long as it is in neutral and not in gear the engine will not rotate and no damage can occur.
 
Hi there, new to the forum and wanted to ask about this problem please.
I was considering buying an A4 2.0TDI registered in June 2007. It has covered 100,000 miles. I have read this thread and there is a lot of information regarding failure of slightly earlier cars, but I cant seem to fathom out a definitive answer about when Audi made mods to rectify the issue. Is a car built and registered this late still at risk of this failure (assuming it has not already been done) or should I be keeping well clear of this engine?
I'm looking for a tidy, nice looking, reliable budget exec, not a big headache!
Thanks
 
Stradacab said:
Hi there, new to the forum and wanted to ask about this problem please.
I was considering buying an A4 2.0TDI registered in June 2007. It has covered 100,000 miles. I have read this thread and there is a lot of information regarding failure of slightly earlier cars, but I cant seem to fathom out a definitive answer about when Audi made mods to rectify the issue. Is a car built and registered this late still at risk of this failure (assuming it has not already been done) or should I be keeping well clear of this engine?
I'm looking for a tidy, nice looking, reliable budget exec, not a big headache!
Thanks
Click to expand...

Audi fixed the fault with engines manufactured after Feb 2010, so a 2007 car WILL still have this issue.
 
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Just swapped mine out for a non balance shaft setup using an ALH oil pump and chain drive.
As you can see there is some wear but not masses. However there was a lot of play between the oil pump and key!
This has done 106k miles and I'm glad I did it!
Engine is more responsive and there's no noticeable difference in vibrations!
9f519cb9e4bd35b060219a436a0ad9e5.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
tut_gareth said:
Just swapped mine out for a non balance shaft setup using an ALH oil pump and chain drive.
As you can see there is some wear but not masses. However there was a lot of play between the oil pump and key!
This has done 106k miles and I'm glad I did it!
Engine is more responsive and there's no noticeable difference in vibrations!
9f519cb9e4bd35b060219a436a0ad9e5.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Nice one, I did the same on mine, the old 1.9's were bulit proof without the balance shafts, well rid!
 
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Hi, I have a very late 57 plate 2007 (one of the last b7s before the b8 chassis was released) a4 2.0tdi s line with the BRD engine. From reading this thread I can conclude I should have the gear driven oil pump and will assumedly have the shorter hex shaft so am at risk of this problem ?

How high that risk is debatable, some concluding it is something that will happen it's just a case of when , others thinking its a small batch so I may be ok. Im at 107k miles at present.

Ive had it since new and it has already needed a new turbo (replaced under warranty), 4 replacement injectors and wiring loom (eventually, after a battle, refunded as good will), a replacement egr valve, a replacement inlet manifold, another more minor failure causeing a boost issue, so its had its fair share of high cost repairs. I really could do without this going on me.

Local vag specialist has quoted me around 550 to change the hex key to the longer one. Is this a no brainer to get done, and is this a reasoable rate ? (in surrey).

Cheers
 
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Gazzza said:
Local vag specialist has quoted me around 550 to change the hex key to the longer one. Is this a no brainer to get done, and is this a reasoable rate ? (in surrey).

Cheers
Click to expand...

Yes it is a no brainer and yes it is a reasonable rate. The job is bigger than a timing belt job as its about 85% of the work for the timing belt + the added work of lowering the subframe and removing the sump, then removing the module and opening it to swap the shafts before refitting.

I have a 56 plate 2.0 TDI with BRD engine which was gear driven. The kit you need is this one.... http://www.kmbpartsdirect.co.uk/oil_pumps.html#kit9

You will also need to add the £125 deposit (top of the same page) so they send the kit out to you, then when you return your old unit back to them they will refund your £125 and I found mine was refunded the same day they received the old part back.

Total cost for you will be £215 for the kit + £550 labour + £125 refundable deposit = £890 - £125 when the deposit is returned = £765
 
That kit is way to expensive. In east Europe they give you the hole oil pump with the gear drive at the price of maximum 200 euro, labor price 250,and that's all. In UK is robbery in plain sight.

Sent from my SM-N910S using Tapatalk
 
Thanks Mario. I assume the garage is going to supply the hex key (and any other other parts, they also mentioned a circuit ?) when they do it as they didn't mention I'd need an additional kit or that I'd have to order something seperately - I assume they were quoting for suply and replace.

Though interestingly I'm due a cambelt change too so I had asked if having them both done together would be a saving on labour and they said no they were two seperate areas and having the cambelt done wouldn't save time on having the hex key changed ??? Does this sound amiss ? (he did say to change the hex key to the pump they'd ahve to remove the sump - and I think, he mentioend the subframe).

Actually isn't the cambelt service done from the front, whilst removing the subframe and sump from underneath ??
 
Gazzza said:
Thanks Mario. I assume the garage is going to supply the hex key (and any other other parts, they also mentioned a circuit ?) when they do it as they didn't mention I'd need an additional kit or that I'd have to order something seperately - I assume they were quoting for suply and replace.

Though interestingly I'm due a cambelt change too so I had asked if having them both done together would be a saving on labour and they said no they were two seperate areas and having the cambelt done wouldn't save time on having the hex key changed ??? Does this sound amiss ? (he did say to change the hex key to the pump they'd ahve to remove the sump - and I think, he mentioend the subframe).

Actually isn't the cambelt service done from the front, whilst removing the subframe and sump from underneath ??
Click to expand...

Ask them what kit they are supplying, as KMB fit a hardened hex keyway into the balance shaft and weld it in place. Some other companies do not weld it, or don't use hardened keyways and as such can fail later down the line. KMB offer a 2 year / unlimited milage warranty on their kit.

Make sure he is not just replacing the hex key only as it's a bodge job! The full shaft should be replaced!

Not sure what they mean by "circuit" as there are no electronics to change. Might want to check that before committing to them. As for the cam belt, they are already having to remove the front bumper, put the lock carrier into the service position, remove the auxilary belt, remove the harmonic balancer (crank pulley), remove the upper and lower timing belt covers AND lock the engine at TDC with the proper locking tools....ALL of which need to be re-done when doing a full timing belt change.

They are literally stopping short of removing the belt / tensioners and fitting new ones before they move onto lowering the subframe and removing the sump. Changing the timing belt and pulleys / tensioners would be another 1-2 hours labour on top of all the work they are doing anyway.

Sounds to me that they are not going to remove the module and hence don't need to lock the engine at TDC (all the timing belt work), and are simply going to replace the hex key for another part that will fail...basically a bodge job.

Reason the engine needs to be locked at TDC is because the balance shaft is timed to the engine and uses its own locking tool when being re-installed. For the balance shaft locking tool to work, the rest of the engine MUST be locked at TDC.
 
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