Hi guys read up and did the n249 bypass on my 02 s3 bam today but after doing it the car doesent seem to be as quick it does run better though the gears tho but decided it was better how it was before so put eveything back to how it was but now i keep getting fault codes on my liquid guage which are - 17695 - 17608 which are the n249 valve or the n75 valve . it cant be the n75 as its a new forge split r which i have blanked off for fully recirc and i the n249 was fine before i did this mod ive checked all the pipes and hoses for splits etc with no joy and ive cleared the faults a few times but they come up straight away . Just wondering if it killed the n249 valve running it connected with no pipes on it ?? Any help would be great btw my car is stage 1 mapped with few mods . cheers
Probs after N249 bypass
- Thread starter Rick.S3
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Have you done it right? The N249 on a BAM is the easiest thing in the world...
Are those the right codes?
17605 is...
17608/P1200/004608 - Ross-Tech Wiki
...which is 'Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction'
This fault code appears when the ECU has tried to use the N249 to dump boost due to a problem and hasn't seen a big enough pressure drop on the MAP sensor in a timely fashion so throws that code..
This suggests you have other issues and the lack of performance could well be due to the ECU being in limp mode...
What was the issue to do with the N75? this is the valve used for boost control so could well be related...
Have you disconnected the N75 and or plumbed it in wrong or something? the main reason for this kinda ECU reaction is that there is a excessive boost deviation or misfire/fuelling issue that the ECU then tries to dump boost to save the engine..
Why did you do the N249 bypass in the first place?
<tuffty/>
Are those the right codes?
17605 is...
17608/P1200/004608 - Ross-Tech Wiki
...which is 'Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction'
This fault code appears when the ECU has tried to use the N249 to dump boost due to a problem and hasn't seen a big enough pressure drop on the MAP sensor in a timely fashion so throws that code..
This suggests you have other issues and the lack of performance could well be due to the ECU being in limp mode...
What was the issue to do with the N75? this is the valve used for boost control so could well be related...
Have you disconnected the N75 and or plumbed it in wrong or something? the main reason for this kinda ECU reaction is that there is a excessive boost deviation or misfire/fuelling issue that the ECU then tries to dump boost to save the engine..
Why did you do the N249 bypass in the first place?
<tuffty/>
Nope the n75 is all plumbed in correct as before so is all the n249 pipes . Ive now got it to how it was running before but them codes are still appearing so its strange really im now getting a fluttering noise though the panel filter vwhich i dident before tho .
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Fluttering noise is the DV not working... bin the Split R it's a pile of crap... you would be better off with an OEM valve...
N249 bypass on a BAM/AMK S3 is simply a 3 or 4 mm ID silicon hose from the inlet mani to the DV... if you are getting that code and the fluttering its the DV thats the issue and the fact that its a Split-R makes the situation worse IMO...
I think Forge stuff is great, I have good friends that work at Forge but the Split-R is just rubbish... nice engineering but plain wrong for a 1.8t
Change it then do the N249 bypass... the fault codes you are getting makes sense now...
<tuffty/>
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Ok tuffty thanks for the advise i thought the spit r would off been ok now i have blanked it off with the blanking plate . I had no probs before
but ill get myself a forge 007 then do the nc24 bypass then will let you know how i get on .
but ill get myself a forge 007 then do the nc24 bypass then will let you know how i get on .
so did you change the N75 plumbing and then change it back? Why did you touch the N75?
so did you change the N75 plumbing and then change it back? Why did you touch the N75?
Sorry its me being daft again i thought the n75 was the recirc valve . I put the standard bosch one back and that ran worse than the split r . Ill check all the wiresgoing into the n75 just to make sure
Sorry its me being daft again i thought the n75 was the recirc valve . I put the standard bosch one back and that ran worse than the split r . Ill check all the wiresgoing into the n75 just to make sure
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Take pics of the setup as well... help with diagnosing especially if you are a little uncertain to what you may have done... might be able to spot something you haven't 
<tuffty/>
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