Exhaust knowledge
- Thread starter LanceG
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It’s a bellows, a corrugated section, which underneath will have a slip joint.
Allows movement of the relative parts, to account for the engine movement.
Can’t really tell what the white stuff is, but maybe exhaust paste? Perhaps it had a leak that’s been repaired in the past.
If it isn’t leaking now then I would leave it alone.
Although if I had money burning a hole in my pocket, id buy that exhaust..
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Allows movement of the relative parts, to account for the engine movement.
Can’t really tell what the white stuff is, but maybe exhaust paste? Perhaps it had a leak that’s been repaired in the past.
If it isn’t leaking now then I would leave it alone.
Although if I had money burning a hole in my pocket, id buy that exhaust..
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Depends where the leak is TBH.
Can you feel or hear a leak from that joint?
Where abouts is that joint? Sorry I’m not 100% familiar with the Audi exhausts to know from a close up.
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Can you feel or hear a leak from that joint?
Where abouts is that joint? Sorry I’m not 100% familiar with the Audi exhausts to know from a close up.
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I can hear a leak, like a hissing sound, but haven't tried to feel anything
Im gonna try and feel for something there during the day , didn't think of that
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Im gonna try and feel for something there during the day , didn't think of that
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I was going to say, looking closer I don’t understand why there is a Y piece and then a silencer in one branch and a bellows in the other. But then again I can’t see where that is on the car or the layout of the exhaust on that car.
Either way, you will need to fix the leak, and it MAY contribute to the poor combustion.
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Either way, you will need to fix the leak, and it MAY contribute to the poor combustion.
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It’s the flexi joint - it flexes as the engine rocks, the exhaust moves with it.
it’s not uncommon for the flexi joins to split - looks like this has happened and they’ve used exhaust paste to fill the gaps.
Whether you go decat or sports cat, you’ll still need a new flexi joint.
it’s not uncommon for the flexi joins to split - looks like this has happened and they’ve used exhaust paste to fill the gaps.
Whether you go decat or sports cat, you’ll still need a new flexi joint.
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That double pipe is part of the downpipe so if you just fit a new catback you will not fix it.
If you fit an aftermarket downpipe the dodgy flexi joint will be removed. Be aware that you will get a light on the dash if the downpipe-Sports cat is not mapped in.
Look out on EBay as sometimes people who have upgraded their system sell the original parts often at a good discount.
If you fit an aftermarket downpipe the dodgy flexi joint will be removed. Be aware that you will get a light on the dash if the downpipe-Sports cat is not mapped in.
Look out on EBay as sometimes people who have upgraded their system sell the original parts often at a good discount.
If you replace the exhaust from the cat back, this flexi will be removed. This flexi has nothing to do with the dp.
It's not the flexi on the downpipe. This one is there to cope with different heat expansion on the double pipe part of the exhaust. One pipe with silencer and one pipe with flexi as you can see on the second picture in the first post.
You can replace the flexi with a general one or bodge it with a solid pipe. It will as last until it breaks...
You can replace the flexi with a general one or bodge it with a solid pipe. It will as last until it breaks...
The stock pipes have 2 flexis - one on the DP (which is where all the aftermarket kits have one too) and another on the twin pipe after the cat.
So replace this one, which is prone to blowing, with a straight piece of pipe. I’d recommend checking/updating engine mounts or gearbox mounts as there will still be movement.
So replace this one, which is prone to blowing, with a straight piece of pipe. I’d recommend checking/updating engine mounts or gearbox mounts as there will still be movement.
Thanks for the advice SamuelH... I didn't check the mounts whilst it was up there which I probably should have done
Old piece
Replacement
Didn't get a focused shot of the weld tho.. ***, I was trying not to be seen
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Old piece
Replacement
Didn't get a focused shot of the weld tho.. ***, I was trying not to be seen
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Just had a google for good welding examples... I give what the guy did a 6 out of 10... ah well, only until I can afford a full exhaust system
The weld on my car is Nothing like below but I am happy
The weld on my car is Nothing like below but I am happy
Last edited:
I’m thinking about doing this as mines blowing aswell, let us know how it isJust had a google for good welding examples... I give what the guy did a 6 out of 10... ah well, only until I can afford a full exhaust system
Nothing like below but I am happy
Think i would be checking why i am only getting a 100 miles to £30 as i think there could be other reasons than just exhaust . Might be worth getting a scan on car done
Scanned with my cheapo OBD scanner... Nothing came up
Doesnt help that my airbox is like this tho
I'm thinking a wheel alignment probably too ?
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If you live in London i can imagine that 100 miles for £30 is reasonable...in fact doing 100 miles at all is an achievement ..but if you live in the sticks like me you should get 30 mpg running around and up to 35 on a motorway if you are sensible.
Only 100 miles
blaaaady hell... Still don't understand people that say "no point having a diesel if you live in London"
Was definitely getting more miles and cheaper tax from my 04 120d
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So I was reading about poor mileage reasons and I'm thinking it's possibly the sender or thermostat.
Been driving for 40 minutes and it's struggles to climb so I'm thinking thermostat??
I've scanned it with generic eBay obd scanner and nothing came up but I'm sure thermostats don't come up on these
Anybody in South London near Mitcham want to VCDS me up ? Lol
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Been driving for 40 minutes and it's struggles to climb so I'm thinking thermostat??
I've scanned it with generic eBay obd scanner and nothing came up but I'm sure thermostats don't come up on these
Anybody in South London near Mitcham want to VCDS me up ? Lol
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My trip home was a lot different..
My Thoughts...
Change thermostat anyway as it looks like an intermittent issue that will get worse or cause further more expensive problems and will need changing anyway ?
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My Thoughts...
Change thermostat anyway as it looks like an intermittent issue that will get worse or cause further more expensive problems and will need changing anyway ?
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I would be straight into changing the thermostat.
The symptoms are very much of a car not operating hot enough and spending too much time in the cold start map. Backed up by your two tests.
The most likely cause is the thermostat.
The reason for the two different test results I think is-
Depending how long the car was left between the two journeys, and the duty cycle on the return trip, it might not be that it’s intermittent. It may just be that you had some residual heat in the water circuit when you started the second journey, and so it got to a point where it needed the thermostat open.
I.e. the second trip wasn’t a 39minute journey from cold, but more it was the second part of a 1’20 journey if you see what I mean.
Changing the thermostat would be the cheapest first thing to check, and you can check the old one in a saucepan with a thermometer if you really want to confirm. (Or just change it and go for a drive!)
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The symptoms are very much of a car not operating hot enough and spending too much time in the cold start map. Backed up by your two tests.
The most likely cause is the thermostat.
The reason for the two different test results I think is-
Depending how long the car was left between the two journeys, and the duty cycle on the return trip, it might not be that it’s intermittent. It may just be that you had some residual heat in the water circuit when you started the second journey, and so it got to a point where it needed the thermostat open.
I.e. the second trip wasn’t a 39minute journey from cold, but more it was the second part of a 1’20 journey if you see what I mean.
Changing the thermostat would be the cheapest first thing to check, and you can check the old one in a saucepan with a thermometer if you really want to confirm. (Or just change it and go for a drive!)
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Change the sensor first or check the water temp with VCDS. FSI engines don't need nearly as much of enrichment as older engines needed. I don't think the thermostat is your problem. Cold start map is temperature and also time dependant. It won't stay on cold start map for more than minute or two.
Thanks for the advice SamuelH... I didn't check the mounts whilst it was up there which I probably should have done
Old piece
Replacement
Didn't get a focused shot of the weld tho.. ***, I was trying not to be seen
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I've not seen a cherry bomb exhaust for years!
SamIs Snake, seen your PM, I'm gonna get back to you after fitting the thermostat.
Change the thermostat on the right hand side of the engine. Problem still exists but the old one did look a lil bit grimy I guess?
Got a mate to go into Audi for me and get it... Why is it so difficult, to order from them? You can't order over the phone and they don't have an online service... People that work Mon - Fri can only go on a Sat, 9 times out of 10 the item isn't in stock so you have to order it then wait a whole week till the following weekend because your working Mon - Fri and can only pick up on Weekend... f****kin hell. mini rant over
I can order over the phone at any main dealer around here but have to pay at the same time. Did they not offer this?
Changed thermostat now car won't start cheapo reader saying all injectors are ********, mass air flow . (No cover on) ******* fuming.. started t 19:30, posting this now. Please do NOT do the math :'(
most challenging job I've ever faced so far... Time to get ready for work hah
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most challenging job I've ever faced so far... Time to get ready for work hah
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