What is wrong with my car now?? My S3 is vaulting out black smoke and VERY poor mileage

Callhome

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Hey guys..

Finally fixed a problem that made the car judder between 3500 and 4000rpm. Thought it was a VAC leak, but turned out to be an electrical wire that goes to a gray box i dont know what is tbh.. (It is connected to the DV and has many hoses on it), sorry for my mechanical disability.

But now we have another problem! My S3 is pouring out black smoke. Especially if you give it som throttle after idling. The idle is also very rough, and the car feels slower than it used to.. Oh and i struggle to get lower than 25l/100km in mileage..

So does anybody (Tuffty??) have a clue what this might be? I do know that black smoke means it is running rich, but is there a common solution to this?

I did a VAGCOM scan and this is what i got;

4 Faults Found:
16514 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Malfunction in Circuit
P0130 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17963 - Charge Pressure: Maximum Limit Exceeded
P1555 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

I Have tried to switch out the MAF, but this did nothing to either idle, or consumption. Black smoke stayed too.

I do see there is an intermittent fault on the O2 sensor, but when i tried to log it in VAGCOM i did se signs of life from it, though i do not know what the values should be.

So, can different things trigger fault codes on these parts?

Any help is appreciated!

EDIT: Forgot to mention, the car also erratically jerks a lot if i touch the throttle just a tiny bit. Not on WOT or at half throttle, just partially touches the throttle. And i do think it jerks the same when i let the throttle go at speed too.
 
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Lambda probe (pre cat one in the downpipe location nearest the turbo) and MAF appear faulty based on those codes and your symptoms...

Charge pressure code could well be the result of the MAF fault so would not worry about that at the moment

First of all check for air leaks preferably with a smoke test... MAF giving a signal too low could be an air leak too so worth eliminating airleaks first... does the engine run better with the MAF disconnected?

Check that the Lambda probe wiring is ok in the first instance (have seen this melt or corrode) and failing that try a new lambda probe as a faulty heater will render it fairly inoperative...

<tuffty/>
 
I wouldn't be driving the car hard (or at all tbh) until you can get to the bottom of the issue as you stand a chance of engine damage...

What engine code?

<tuffty/>
 
Lambda probe (pre cat one in the downpipe location nearest the turbo) and MAF appear faulty based on those codes and your symptoms...

Charge pressure code could well be the result of the MAF fault so would not worry about that at the moment

First of all check for air leaks preferably with a smoke test... MAF giving a signal too low could be an air leak too so worth eliminating airleaks first... does the engine run better with the MAF disconnected?

Check that the Lambda probe wiring is ok in the first instance (have seen this melt or corrode) and failing that try a new lambda probe as a faulty heater will render it fairly inoperative...

<tuffty/>

I see. Both the new and the old MAF throw the same code though..

I have checked for leaks, and i found a tiny leak in the front of the car, but i havent got to fix it yet, as i have to dismount the bumper to get to it. Will do it ASAP though!

Will check the lambda wiring, and replace it if i cant fint anything wrong. Do you by any chance know if non-OEM lambda can be fitted? Like a Bosch lambda, but not ordered from a dealership?

EDIT: the engine does not run better with MAF disconnected
 
I wouldn't be driving the car hard (or at all tbh) until you can get to the bottom of the issue as you stand a chance of engine damage...

What engine code?

<tuffty/>

This is an APY engine.
 
all fuel calculated by maf so lambda and maf replacement to begin with.... only replace with bosch parts.. available from factors not just dealers
 
all fuel calculated by maf so lambda and maf replacement to begin with.... only replace with bosch parts.. available from factors not just dealers

Okay! Thanks for your answer both of you!

Will buy parts today. But the cost of a lambda from the dealership is over 450 pounds (translated from Norwegian currency), so thats a no go. And thats employee price (i work at an VW/Audi dealership)
 
Okay! Thanks for your answer both of you!

Will buy parts today. But the cost of a lambda from the dealership is over 450 pounds (translated from Norwegian currency), so thats a no go. And thats employee price (i work at an VW/Audi dealership)
holy sh1t, how much? £70-£90 GBP over here for genuine bosch
 
holy sh1t, how much? £70-£90 GBP over here for genuine bosch

Yeah, i kid you not! 5100NOK, so 454gbp to be exact. Its insane!

Managed to find genuine part for 90 GBP, so i'll have the new part in a few days. Will update as soon av i've gotten it changed.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Oh and btw: Dont know if anyone has ever said this to you (lol), but we need Badger5 TIP for LHD
 
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Good evening guys!

Replaced lambda, and no black smoke or rough idle. Took it for a test drive and the car went like sh1t!

Looked up the fault codes, and cleared them afterwards. The fault that keeps coming back is this:

17795 - Internal control module malfunction

P1387 -35-00 - -

Anybody got an idea? Cant really seem to find anything specific online..
 

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