You need to hold it quite firmly but it should just slide back into position with a bit of gentle persuasion. It won't centre until fully home IIRC.
hi..ive cleaned the motor but am having trouble putting the sleave back on as the magnets are so strong, i cant get it to centre..any help please
Hi all pics should all be restored now. Apologies
So I've had the hood header apart and noticed the rubber "bump stop" washer type thing for the motor "S" latch was worn. Wiggling it around I noticed it's torn on one side.
So took it out altogether and hey presto roof opens as it should.
Seems something is out of line or this rubber washer/bump stop was stopping the sensor realising that the hood latches were fully open.
Any ideas what the part no is for this? Or can I live without it?
YouTube video of it working WITHOUT the rubber washer in place.
Thanks
David
Hi Khurrum,
First of all, thank you for putting this up and keeping up on it for the past five years. I have read each post in an effort to gain an understanding to my Audi's problem. I have a 2009 A4 Cabrio with the first fault on your www.vagpro.co.uk web site. When I try to open the top, the windows go down halfway and the top lifts about an inch.
After following your instructions I was able to reach the pump motor. I cleaned the commutator of dark streaks by sanding. I then pried the casing for the brushes slightly open and made sure the brushes were able to move back and forth. I noticed on brush had pitted and only about half of it touched the commutator. I put the motor back and tried to open the roof but same symptoms described above.
I purchased a multimeter and tried to see if any voltage was going to the motor. I have to admit I am not sure I did this correctly. first I stuck two paper clips into the plug, attached alligator clips to the clips then attached the alligator clips to my multimeter prongs. I closed the trunk and had someone start the car and try to open the top. There was no reading. I then took off the casing plugged the motor in attached the alligator clips to the copper wires attached to the brushes. Started the car, tried to open the top, still no reading.
I have not found a vag-com yet but am looking.
Any thoughts on what could be the issue without the vag-com?
Hello,
To rectify the motor issue, you need to replace the brushes, cleaning and prying is only a short term solution....
Check the motor for continuity, is it open circuit? If not remove the motor and test with 12v (keep the pump vertical so fluid doesn't leak out)
If the motor works fine on the bench, then you have an issue elsewhere, it could be a number of things so looking at the live data in VCDS is the next step.
Don't believe the fault codes !
Where are you based?
Regards, Khurrum, 07834770567, www.vagpro.co.uk, www.facebook.com/vprouk, www.instagram.com/vagprouk
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Hi again Khurrum,
Based out of Lexington, Kentucky USA.
I tested for continuity on the motor and it was not an open circuit.
I took the motor out and hooked it up to my battery Tested at 13.5 volts on the multimeter. The Motor starting running, very fast.
I connected positive (red) to positive (red) on the battery and negative (black) to negative (black) on the battery via jumper cables.
It does seem as if my issue is elsewhere.
I will probably have to buy the VAG Com in the next week. It is not so bad at $199. Better than the $3ooo the dealership wanted to replace the whole pump and motor.
Hello,
To rectify the motor issue, you need to replace the brushes, cleaning and prying is only a short term solution....
Check the motor for continuity, is it open circuit? If not remove the motor and test with 12v (keep the pump vertical so fluid doesn't leak out)
If the motor works fine on the bench, then you have an issue elsewhere, it could be a number of things so looking at the live data in VCDS is the next step.
Don't believe the fault codes !
Where are you based?
Regards, Khurrum, 07834770567, www.vagpro.co.uk, www.facebook.com/vprouk, www.instagram.com/vagprouk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi VagPro,
Having gained temporary relief by cleaning the brushes-commutator several times over the past years it is now time to
replace the brushes for a longer-term fix.
Questions:
1. do u have the specifications and dimensions for the brushes.
2. Do u know a source for ordering these parts.
3. Are there any detailed instructions for taking the motor assembly apart to get access to replace the brushes? Will I lose some hydraulic fluid in the process, the Audi fluid is very expensive.
Again VagPro, my thanks for your fantastic help, you have saved me and many cabriolet owners a lot of money by showing them the way to tackle this problem.
Khurrum,
The vag-com just arrived and I plugged it into the car. I have not read the manual yet but here is what came up
3 Faults Found
02000 - Switch Position
008- Implausible Signal
01197 - Convertible Top Locking Motor (V223)
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Any thoughts?
I'm not to sure where to look now. My roof has been playing up for a while. It is now not working at all. It use to unlatch and the back window and storage compartment use to go up then stop. But was intermittent. Thought it could be the angle sensor, but did nothing about it. Then it would get stuck down and not go back up. Now it just unlatches and nothing else. So i cleaned the brushes and it worked a couple of times then stopped. So i repeated it and it done the same. So I thought id buy a recon one and it would fix the problem.
So i swapped the motor out and the same problem is still there. I was looking at the relays by the motor they had a bit of corrosion on so i tested them one wasnt working so thought that must be it. Went halfords and changed it. And that still did not solve the issue.
So at this point for some reason. I decided to scan with vcds. and it said short to ground on the relay. so i swapped them around and the fault followed so i thought ok. Swapped both relays for new ones. and i still have the problem and have this fault code.
01109 - Hydraulic Pump Relay (J321)
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
If anyone has ideas I'd be open to suggestions.
thanks
Hi VagPro,Looks like I missed this one,
Options above is good, or I sell a kit on eBay which includes instructions
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I would like to order the VagPro kit but according to the eBay site it does not fit the Audi A4 2007 8H7, B6, 8HE, B7 [2005-2009] Convertible 2.0 TFSI quattro.
Vagpro, is this an error, will your kit fit my car which is very common in North America.
Well, I think I can now answer my own queries.
Instead of welding a nut to a bar to make the spindle extractor, my mate drilled and tapped a hole for the bolt and turned down the end of the bolt to remove the thread on his lathe. The spindle came out without too much difficulty.
Removing the old brushes presented a problem as my 40W soldering iron simply wasn't up to the job. Fortunately my pal has a miniature gas soldering iron that made short work of melting the solder. Fitting the new carriers and brushes was simple but pressing the motor spindle back into the bearing in the vice was scary and required constant careful measurement to ensure correct depth of replacement. (VagPro provides very detailed photographic instructions with his kit)
We bench tested the motor on reassembly and all was well. Phew!
Today I refitted the motor to the pump, put everything back and nervously operated the roof switch. Woo hoo! It worked. After half a dozen roof cycles I checked the fluid level in the reservoir with the roof stowed and to my surprise the fluid was still at the 'max' level - so no worries there.
From what I can gather, fluid to VAG spec G 002 000 is added to the reservoir through the brass cap on its top using a syringe.
Anyway, I now have a tailor-made press for removing the motor bearing so if anyone wants to borrow it rather than making their own, you are more than welcome provided you are willing to pay return postage.
Once again, sincere thanks to Khurrum for helping us with the technical aspects of this repair.
Greetings Fine Folks
joining the club, and having an issue with the convertible top on a 2007 Audi A4 Quattro. Had the car in to two separate Audi dealers, gor diagnostics. First shop unable to provide solution stating more time and charges required. Second shop stated a position sensor and a motor. Had the motor cleaned and serviced; it appears to be working fine. Replaced the sensor with a new one as diagnosed by shop. Same issue is as follows:
Top will open to the point where the rear windshield needs to operate. It will usually rise, then stop completely in the open position. The roof will no longer function. If I drop the windshield manually by hand, The motion will continue. It is the same situation when trying to open the roof. Generally stopping when the rear windshield needs to function. Also swapped out control unit as another shop suggested it was the culprit. It shouldn’t be this mysterious.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. You guys are fantastic. Thanks much.
Hello All,
I tried closing the hood one day and it did not want to budge. After closing it manually and a bit of trouble shooting I found it was the electric motor which drives the hydraulic pump which was faulty.
Symptoms: Roof unlatches but does not open, storage compartment unlatches but does not close, no noise from hydraulic unit (in RHS in boot), unit starts working after a few light taps with a soft mallet.
All the above can be due to poor conduction between the motor commutator and motor brushes.
The cause of this is that the brushes get stuck in the brush carriers and do not make good contact with the communicator, this in turn leads to arcing and poor contact. The issue is resolved by cleaning the commutator and prevented by prying open the brush carriers (gently) to allow the brushes to move freely again.
Here is what I did to get my motor working again (As you would expect please do so at your own risk I accept no responsibility)
So I started off by removing the boot rubber channel then the rear cross panel trim,
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4...ving and installing rear cross panel trim.pdf
Removing the right side trim
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4...ing and installing side trim (right-side).pdf
but before this panel can be removed the hinge for the hood storage compartment has to be removed, be careful not to drop the washer between the hinge and the bodywork. Unclip at the back. The trim should then slide out towards the rear of the car (slide past the hood storage compartment)
You should then be somewhere here, then remove the wiring plug to the 12v power socket and the boot light. Once this panel is removed, remove the three bolts holding the amplifier. Move the amplifier to the side for easy access to the hydraulic pump. You should now have access to the hydraulic pump, proceed to removing the three nuts holding the pump down. Now before you let loose at dismantling the motor housing do something I did not do (and learnt the hard way), MARK the position of the motor casing with a black marker. Unclip the relays from the relay carrier
Now you are ready to remove the motor cover, open the 7mm bolts (make sure you have marked the position of the housing). Pull the housing, bear in mind that the magnets will provide some resistance. So now you can see the problem, dirty commutator. So I got some 800 wet and dry paper, held it in place with a screw driver and turned the motor by hand until it cleaned up. Once the surface is clean, use a Stanley blade to clean any debris in the slots on the commutator. And there you have it, a nice clean commutator.
Reassemble with a touch of grease on the end bearing not forgetting to line up the markings you did earlier and you should be all sorted !!
The next step is to stop the problem reoccurring by prying open the brush carriers, insert a small screwdriver between the small slot in the brush carriers and gently pry them open, then pull the brushes back and confirm they spring back freely towards the commutator. See picture below
View attachment 14986
I have attached some other files which I pulled of Elsa on A4 Cabriolet roofs, these are below:
General Information on Hydraulic System
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4...r/General Information on hydraulic system.pdf
Exploded View of Convertible Top
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Exploded View of Convertible Top.pdf
Exploded View of Hydraulic System
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/exploded view of hydraulic system.pdf
Block Diagram of Hydraulic System (This is in case you want to know how it really works !!)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Block diagram of hydraulic system.pdf
Wiring Diagrams for Electric Hood
2003 Onwards
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Electric Hood Wiring Diagram 2003 on.pdf
2005 Onwards
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Electric Hood Wiring Diagram 2005 on.pdf
Good luck ! In case of any queries, or if you would like any more information of the workshop manual drop me an email
khurrumsattar@hotmail.com
facebook.com\VProUK
I have recently had a number of emails and requests for other roof related issues and for carrying out the procedure above. Although I work full time as an Engineer I can assist for a small fee (to cover my time). So please do not hesitate to contact me !!
All the links to the images and PDFs in the original posts are broken, given the age of the post, were the links/PDFs moved and can a moderator or administrator fix the problem? Thanks!
BTW I attached this handy video to "reboot/reset" manually the convertible top...just make sure you start with all the windows down, otherwise it will be still be dead and give a yellow alarm that the top is not secured with an audible alarm that sounds every time you come to a stop for about 10 secs. (very irritating). Such was the symptoms on my 2006 A4 Cabriolet.