That WAS lucky! What is the length of the hex shaft? (as accurate as possible if you would be so kind)
73mm i believe mate
That WAS lucky! What is the length of the hex shaft? (as accurate as possible if you would be so kind)
Hi Tuffy,
Good to here your pro active approach, that wear looked pretty bad. I think im going to do something similar in the summer. Let us know how fast the turn around is at powermax. Also are you changing anything else while you have the balancer module out, oil pump or crank gear? Also how long did it take the garage to get to the point of inspection.
cheers
Matt
Paul B7 posted this up (last page on the right in the middle)Tell us more Darren
did you end up taking the subframe off or just jacking it up ?Thought it was a better approach than just driving with fingers crossed. No hadn't planned on replacing any other parts. I would say it took us probably 2 hours in total to strip down a remove. To be honest, not as bad as i thought it was going to be.
Most difficult bit was removing two studs tucked up in the bell housing that were holding the sump in place.
did you end up taking the subframe off or just jacking it up ?
Thought it was a better approach than just driving with fingers crossed. No hadn't planned on replacing any other parts. I would say it took us probably 2 hours in total to strip down a remove. To be honest, not as bad as i thought it was going to be.
Most difficult bit was removing two studs tucked up in the bell housing that were holding the sump in place.
Yeah fingers crossed approach is doing my head in lol. Gotta get this **** sorted. Who's the garage might give em call
Cheers
Matt
Its a friend of mines company in Suffolk, Modern vehicle technology. pretty good on all German cars
This is a good thread and thanks for keeping everyone updated. Its good to read not everyone has had to pay out like I did for a BLB chain to gear conversion.
have a readPaul B7 posted this up (last page on the right in the middle)
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/63614250/2.0%20TDI%20oil%20pumps.pdf
in the artical it says you can convert from the 2.0 oil pump back to the Old school B5 one which is the 1.9 (ALH)
from reading the article it says you need this part and that part
I am assuming that all the parts are from the 1.9 (ALH) and if this is true you could pick up a ALH engine for cheaper then £300
and just swap everything over
VOLKSWAGEN CADDY ENGINE 1.9TDI ALH CODE | eBay
Tuffy,
Any chance of some photos showing how you have the engine supported and the subframe positioning etc.?
Nigel
Tuffy,
That would be great, especially if you could do some detailed photos of the engine supports. Do you feel the removal of the front bumper was essential and made the job easier?
Nigel
I will next time i go into the workshop. In the mean time i will try to explain.....Black engine cover removed from top of the engine, at the front of the engine and at the back you will see the engine support brackets.
We used a engine support that spans the engine left to right and sits on the inner lip of the wing, used two pieces of timber just to protect the lip of the wings. attached chain to the engine support brackets and support brace and wound it tight.
As for the subframe just loosen the bolts which hold the frame to the underside of the car just enough so it drops a few millimeters
I've read on other forums you have to totally remove the aircon compressor....you dont! undo and remove the bolt holding the compressor to the car but keeping all the pipes attached so not to release the gas and just support the compressor unit by a bungie strap.
Hope that helps.
Tuffy,
A quick question regarding the type of engine support beam you used. Was yours a single lift type that lifted both the front and back chains together or was it the twin lifter version with two independent chain lifters? My reason for asking is that i am looking to get all the necessary parts ready for doing mine. How is your rebuild coming along?
Nigel
To be honest Nigel, I will be leaving that part of it to the trained Mercanic. That's where I'm out of my depths. Stick to what ya know!
There's an Audi tool for doing the alignment, circa £20-30 off the bay last time I looked.
Audi Tool number T10255
Paul B7
Thx Paul. I can see how that tool aligns one of the balance shafts to engine TDC, but how do you align the other balance shaft to its partner when you rebuild the balance shaft assembly prior to putting back it onto the engine? This must be critical to avoid a lumpy engine.
Nigel
nice one tuffy, let us know how ya road test goes on
Hi guys
Just had my Balance shaft swapped as the unthinkable happened on New Years Eve. I stopped within a mile of the oil pressure light coming on, but stilled finished off my turbo. The turbo worked (sounded very sick) for one day after the balance shaft was replaced but blew taking most of the oil out of the engine with it.... The Hex key (which was modified by the dealer under warranty) only lasted approx. 50k as you can see it was completely round. It was the 75mm one not the newer 100mm length which I guess is part of the problem. I purchased the new balance shaft for £225 (sending my old one back) and the labour was £450 with oil and filter. The AC needed re-gassing. The remanufactured turbo fitted was £500. so all in all it has costed me a just over 1k.
It is quite a job, in my case the dropped the sub-frame to take the sump off and moved the a/c unit. A few garages were not interested after bad experiences (I think to do the modification from the chain is an even bigger job as it needs more parts that will make it more expensive). If you are going to have it inspected i would have the hex or chain replaced at the same time as taking it apart is 3/4 of the job and expense.
The dealer does not even return my calls, I am thinking to taking the case to small claims court. There are so many cases at the moment the modified balance shafts are in short supply. The car is working but i am sure it has done no good to it, but when you look at the second hand prices of my 56 Audi Avant I would not swap it as at least i know my car and it is in good condition with a good spec. One garage told me to scap it...
It is very frustrating that all the expense could have been avoided and down to a bad design. I will just have to hit the brakes the next time the oil light comes on, as you never know when it will go or have a new hex shaft or chain fitted every 50K ish (I even wonder if you should not pay to upgrade the chain to the hex key as I think both are flawed and it may be better to save the conversion cash and just get the chain and drive replaced like the hex). The good news is there are some chaps out there who can help and supply units to get you back on the road, which the dealers are not willing to do unless you have very deep pockets.
I will update if I have anymore news
The dealer was very tight lipped when it went in, but I believe it must have been the balance shaft conversion from the chain. It was in for a few days. It is a BRE engine. I am just glad I got it at a good price and am planning doing another 100K in it ( let's see how many hex keys I get through) before I get a new one. When I brought it there were hardly any news on this, but this will roll and roll
The dealer was very tight lipped when it went in, but I believe it must have been the balance shaft conversion from the chain. It was in for a few days. It is a BRE engine. I am just glad I got it at a good price and am planning doing another 100K in it ( let's see how many hex keys I get through) before I get a new one. When I brought it there were hardly any news on this, but this will roll and roll
Only the BLB coded engines have the chain driven balance shaft /oil pump assembly.
BRE engines have the gear driven unit fitted.