S3 8V with around the 60k miles

[S3_27UK]

Hi,

So it seems like my new car might potentially be the 8V S3. My insurance is ending soon. I have around the 16-18k mark. I've seen a car with 61,000, description claims full service history.

With a car around this mileage is there any serious maintenance that i'll have to carry out? Anything i should look out for. Will be my first performance car after moving from a 1.5 1 series.

Many thanks

 

[Chris4410]

The S3 requires a fairly major service around 36k miles, haldex oil, engine oil, gearbox presuming it is stronic all need changed. Spark plugs and the usual filters as well, I would check that all this was done, with that mileage it will probably need done again fairly soon.

 

[S3_27UK]

The S3 requires a fairly major service around 36k miles, haldex oil, engine oil, gearbox presuming it is stronic all need changed. Spark plugs and the usual filters as well, I would check that all this was done, with that mileage it will probably need done again fairly soon.

I appreciate your reply, do you know what the rough cost on all of that would be from Audi. It is s-tronic.

 

[Adam14]

I appreciate your reply, do you know what the rough cost on all of that would be from Audi. It is s-tronic.

Make sure the haldex filter is cleaned/replaced. Audi won't so this so an independent garage is required. The filter gets clogged up and all Audi do is change the oil, which doesn't solve this issue.

Not sure if facelift only or not, but a very common fault is a coolant leak on the 8V S3, usually due to the thermostat housing so see if this has been replaced as well.

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

 

[Chris4410]

I appreciate your reply, do you know what the rough cost on all of that would be from Audi. It is s-tronic.

From memory it cost around £600.

I had my S3 from new and kept it for 3 years, just over 40k miles on it when I changed it. In that time I didn’t really have any problems with it.

 

[S3_27UK]

Make sure the haldex filter is cleaned/replaced. Audi won't so this so an independent garage is required. The filter gets clogged up and all Audi do is change the oil, which doesn't solve this issue.

Not sure if facelift only or not, but a very common fault is a coolant leak on the 8V S3, usually due to the thermostat housing so see if this has been replaced as well.

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Thanks for your reply, i'll keep an eye out for that. I believe the one's im looking at have that issue.

 

[Damo S]

Misfires! If you are buying from a dealership then they will (should) be able to provide you with a diagnostic print out showing the avg misfire count for the last 10 drives. If its only a few on each cylinder that is fine, but if its in the 10s or more for any of the cylinders then all is not well. The cause can range from something simple to piston damage and perhaps immanent engine failure.

Note: The ECU is very good at making the engine run OK even if something isn't right, and the misfire count is one of the first signs of such even if it sounds like its running fine and isnt throwing any error codes.

If you are buying privately you can check this easily yourself using a OBD dongle and torque pro app for your phone in a few minutes. The two cost about 12 quid in total and to be honest I would recommend having this anyway to use during your ownership (checking for misfires, error codes, clearing codes if need be, and access to other bits of useful driving data such as the real boost pressure not the crappy gauge on the dash).

Good luck.

 

[S3_27UK]

Misfires! If you are buying from a dealership then they will (should) be able to provide you with a diagnostic print out showing the avg misfire count for the last 10 drives. If its only a few on each cylinder that is fine, but if its in the 10s or more for any of the cylinders then all is not well. The cause can range from something simple to piston damage and perhaps immanent engine failure.

Note: The ECU is very good at making the engine run OK even if something isn't right, and the misfire count is one of the first signs of such even if it sounds like its running fine and isnt throwing any error codes.

If you are buying privately you can check this easily yourself using a OBD dongle and torque pro app for your phone in a few minutes. The two cost about 12 quid in total and to be honest I would recommend having this anyway to use during your ownership (checking for misfires, error codes, clearing codes if need be, and access to other bits of useful driving data such as the real boost pressure not the crappy gauge on the dash).

Good luck.

Thanks for this, i was reading through your previous comments seems like a nightmare. Is there any OBD dongle you'd recommend or just any will do?

Many thanks

 

[kalniel]

Check discs, they may start to be scored/lipped/corroded which dealers will advise replacing £300-400 or so per axle - MOT will advisory but not fail as long as the braking is still good. Shocks will probably start leaking, don't know the cost of this as got mine done under warranty, sorry, check for signs of oil on them - chances are they've already been replaced in history so have a look and plan on replacing again at similar mileage. Front wishbones/ball joints will begin to creak at this mileage (or just before) too - make sure to test when dry and go slowly over some speed bumps. Can be temporarily sorted by packing bushes with grease but only for up to a year at a time so probably worth replacing (bush is inbuilt to the unit).

60k mileage is good for value, but around the danger period in that it seems they engineer them to last out the warranty periods trouble free. I had virtually trouble-free motoring until 50k and more and more things are breaking now. Just factor in this to your budget and you'll be happy - it's still cheaper than depreciation from new!

 

[S3_27UK]

Thanks for this, i was reading through your previous comments seems like a nightmare. Is there any OBD dongle you'd recommend or just any will do?

Many thanks

Edit i noticed OBDEleven is an actual branded obd dongle. Thanks

 

[S3_27UK]

Check discs, they may start to be scored/lipped/corroded which dealers will advise replacing £300-400 or so per axle - MOT will advisory but not fail as long as the braking is still good. Shocks will probably start leaking, don't know the cost of this as got mine done under warranty, sorry, check for signs of oil on them - chances are they've already been replaced in history so have a look and plan on replacing again at similar mileage. Front wishbones/ball joints will begin to creak at this mileage (or just before) too - make sure to test when dry and go slowly over some speed bumps. Can be temporarily sorted by packing bushes with grease but only for up to a year at a time so probably worth replacing (bush is inbuilt to the unit).

60k mileage is good for value, but around the danger period in that it seems they engineer them to last out the warranty periods trouble free. I had virtually trouble-free motoring until 50k and more and more things are breaking now. Just factor in this to your budget and you'll be happy - it's still cheaper than depreciation from new!

Starting to seem like alot of things to look out for, how long does audis warranty last for and does it transfer over in the sale of a used car?

Thanks for the advice too!

 

[Harvey]

Standard manufacturer warranty is 3 years & will transfer over to any new owner. If you wish you can inform Audi & give then your contact details.

Don't let all the negatives put you off what you want to buy. Sure all cars have bad points which are always highlighted but no one ever shouts about the good points

 

[craigpanthercrystal]

Seems to be some scare mongering going on here, Iv just hit 52K and I got the car at just under 20K.
The pricing above is about right if your going to Audi, I used Audi for everything until my 5 year warranty ran out but due to the fact you are looking at a 60K miles car id imaging you would be happy with taking the car to Indi's? Do you have any good ones local?
I use a very good indi, New uprated discs and pads all round sub £500. Full major Service about £350. Haldex I do myself every 10K £45. Running costs (Fuel isnt the best but then again its a 300bhp 4x4) is comparable to a normal A3 or 1 series, its just the repairs are a little scarier for anything major, i.e engine / gearbox
Only problem I have had is the common water pump failure but that should have shown its head by 60K and if the car has decent enough SH it should be documented , I have aftermarket warranty and that pump / stat housing was covered, I would recommend a full wear and tear warranty especially if you have S Tronic and to cover the miss fire concern just in case to give peace of mind, but make sure the terms and conditions are bullet proof.

Mine is lowered (has been for about 15K miles) and no wishbone issues or damper leaks but I have heard of those being fairy common, but parts are cheap enough (Same parts as an A3) and the dampers aint too pricy if it doesnt have the Electronic dampers.

Only other point is check for Whines on the rear diff. could be on its way out if so, but again a used low mileage diff isnt the end of the world.

I would say all of the above would be mentioned in the Service history, i.e Water pump change, recalls, S tronic service at 38K, if not then be careful.

 

[pburv]

Apart from what's been mentioned in above posts. One good thing to take note if you didn't know already is that if you go for a saloon version it comes as standard with 19" alloys and 'Mag Ride' from 2015 onwards. Both worth it on looks and road handling alone.

 

[Damo S]

Thanks for this, i was reading through your previous comments seems like a nightmare. Is there any OBD dongle you'd recommend or just any will do?

Many thanks

I use the ELM327 which is on amazon for about a tenner. had no problems.

To be clear only a few of us have had the misfire issues but it is worth double checking that isnt the reason for the car being moved on.

 

[S32B]

how long does audis warranty last for and does it transfer over in the sale of a used car?

Thanks for the advice too!

You can by an Audi extended warranty once the 3 years is up, but if it ends for just a day you pay double! It would be worth finding out if you bought an Audi approved used car that came with a warranty if this was still the case. I extended mine at the end of 3 years for about £300 for all component's cover, but like I say that was keeping continuous cover, if there is a break it's almost double!!!

Just looked at S3 prices, I sold my 15 plate in Oct 2017, if I had kept it, the px price has only dropped by £5,000 in 39 months/£128pm. Wish i had kept it tbh, they do hold their value better than most cars!

You can get extended cover quotes here https://insurewithaudi.co.uk/extend...3sGMUsvNkxt1e7xlvZBoCL98QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[dnzbdr]

Hi

How can we understand if a used S3 remapped or tuned before, but then reverted back to original? Is there any way to check this?

There is a 40k navarra blue S3, which is looking beautiful. In general there are things that I'm looking to understand how nicely the car was used, like the condition of wheels and discs for driving style, steering wheel for the interior, etc. These are for the first impression. Then I try to drive at high speeds for a while and brake hard to see the behaviour of both steering and brake conditions.

Anything else you would like to add, in addition to remapping and tuning issue?

 

[george forbes]

Clutch slipping , floor the pedal in 5th and see if revs jump with no speed increase.

 

[dnzbdr]

Yes you are right thank you, as this is written in LUK dual clutch diagnostic document.

For those who do not know. In manual gear mode, cruising at both 6th and 7th gear around 1000-1200 engine rpm, floor the pedal without kickdown and observe the engine rpm. The instant change in rpm shouldn't be more than 100rpm for both clutches.

 

[dnzbdr]

Any idea on how to understand if it was tuned?