Hi I’m looking to upgrade a few parts on my Audi A4 B6 1.8t so just looking for a bit of advice and ideas.. I want to change the injectors and turbo to start off with..
Performance Upgrades on Audi A4 B6 1.8t
- Thread starter MrBee
- Start date
-
- Tags
- audi a4 b6 1.8t
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2011
- Messages
- 570
- Reaction score
- 89
- Points
- 28
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2011
- Messages
- 570
- Reaction score
- 89
- Points
- 28
no mate sorry not sure what available for 1.8T
someone will help soon.
when i started tuning my 1.9tdi had lots of fun finding a clutch that could deal with massive torque.
ended up with a southbend clutch which has lasted great in a diesel.
i also converted my 2wd to quattro which solved lots of grip problems
lots of work though as its gearbox/ rear subframe/diff and fuel tank.
i cheated and bough an identical car to mine apart from Quattro and swapped the lot.
easy job apart from Propshaft center bearing mount had no captive nuts on my car
so much better once you have more power.
someone will help soon.
when i started tuning my 1.9tdi had lots of fun finding a clutch that could deal with massive torque.
ended up with a southbend clutch which has lasted great in a diesel.
i also converted my 2wd to quattro which solved lots of grip problems
lots of work though as its gearbox/ rear subframe/diff and fuel tank.
i cheated and bough an identical car to mine apart from Quattro and swapped the lot.
easy job apart from Propshaft center bearing mount had no captive nuts on my car
so much better once you have more power.
No worries..
sounds like you’ve done a few bits and pieces mate.. all I’ve done at the moment is ram air filter and back box delete.. I want to Get r8 coil pack and a ko4 turbo with stage 1 map and see how it goes from there.. the car is very reliable and a daily so don’t want to do too much BUT have few mods on it.. it’s quite nippy as it is too..
sounds like you’ve done a few bits and pieces mate
.. all I’ve done at the moment is ram air filter and back box delete.. I want to Get r8 coil pack and a ko4 turbo with stage 1 map and see how it goes from there.. the car is very reliable and a daily so don’t want to do too much BUT have few mods on it.. it’s quite nippy as it is too..
All so called performance filters have a more open structure in an attempt to flow more air thus allowing much more dust in.
Never thought about that mate.. I’ll keep and eye on that and clean regular or maybe even replace after 6 months depending on the condition..
Used K and N for over 25yrs, never ever had a single issue............ever. Just make sure no excessive oil on it, also if you do re-oil, less is more. I just check mine every 6m and clean out if required. WRX one for near 4yrs never had much to clean, about 34k miles driven, previous Treg had about 12k on it, still like new.
Oil is the least of the problems , #1 is the dirt it lets through .
In life when you have one entity saying it's a bad thing is doubtful , but when you have multiple...
.. "which investigated the high failure rates of modern MAF sensors. Several factors where involved which revealed what many have suspected all along.
Higher air flow capability with the K&N is the result of larger pores in the filter media to offset the smaller total area when compared to any OEM filter. Oil is used to help trap the dirt when it comes in contact with the filter media. One of the aspects of this design allows what is referred to as "Tracking" where certain regions of the filter media as a result of internal air box flow patterns directs particles to specific regions of the filter more than others. What occurs next is those regions lose the oil saturation to the increased dirt loading allowing particles in the 90 micron range to pass through the media since there is no longer any more residual oil in the local pores.
Oil migration. Oil migration occurs when the motor is in warm climates and/or operating at high engine speeds where the volume of air passing accross the filter carries small amounts of oil into the air stream post filter which is now entering the motor.
Particles less than 90 microns... Pull a hair out of your head and push it through the filter media, if it passes through you have a filter with pores GREATER than 100 Microns in size! This is the primary issue with MAF sensors. MAF sensors rely on filtration quality that captures 95% of all particles greater in size than 15 microns. Ideally 10 micron capability would result in longer life but now the physical size of the filter is increased to offset the fine fitlering capability when using conventional or synthetic fibers in an "Un-Oiled" air filter.
MAF air flow sensor design. MAF sensors use micrscopic heating elements placed on a circuit board. The heating element provides a constant rise in temperature to provide a known condition for the ECU to calculate air flow. On the leading edge of the MAF sensor is a temperature sensor which measures the temperature of the air passing over the leading edge, this temperature returns a value to the ECU. As the air passes over the heated portion of the MAF sensor heat is transmitted to the air stream thus heating it. As the air passes accross the back portion of the sensor a second temperature reading is taken. Higher flow rates result in lower temperature rise, lower flow rates result in higher temperature rises.
Another aspect of the MAF sensor is static build up on the leading edge of the sensor element. This static charge causes small particles of dirt and debris to adhere to the elements leading edge distorting the laminar flow characteristics of the sensor throwing off the temeperature readings take accross the elements surface. Over time rotors form accross the back side of the build up depositing oil, dirt and anything else that is in the slip stream directly onto the heating elements surface. What happens next is that the oil/dirt or any combination of the two insulates the heating element causing it to overheat and short out. The result is a complete loss of data to the ECU causing it to revert to default values stored as a limp home function.
The precursor to the failure is often a reduction in peformance as a result of inaccurate thermal readings accross the sensor plate. As the dirt accumulates power typically drops off until the heating element fails.
OEM air filters believe it or not out perform K&N in all aspects. This is easily done by using filter media which has much smaller pore size (5 microns on "average") this allows typical filtration to hit the 10-15 micron range with the 95% effective range. However the fine filtration capabily results in more restriction, the restriction is offset by increasing the depth and number of the pleats the media uses. The biggest advantage to this is that the OEM filters are able to go 50,000-100,000 miles between changes WITHOUT resulting in any increases of restriction or worse yet ALLOWING MORE DIRT TO GET IN THE MOTOR! OEM filters REGARDLESS of miles or time in use perform as well or BETTER the more they are used again up until the reach the maximum restriction point (15" or 25" WC).
Most OEM air filters have anywhere between 1-4" water colum of restriction when new. A fitler is considered to be "Loaded" when restriction reaches 15" WC on naturally aspirated motors and 25"WC on turbo or supercharged vehicles. Regardless of how dirty the filter may look provided restriction does not exceed the above numbers the filter is providing 95% efficiency at removing all particles greater than 10-15 microns.
Bottom line is that using any type of high flow filter that does not meet the 95% filtering capability at 15 microns is asking for trouble.
Call K&N and ask them what their filtering efficiency is at 15 microns and if they will warranty the MAF if it becomes contaminated and burns out... I will save you the time, they will laugh at you and not do a thing."
Is it really worth it for the 1 bhp you might gain , VAG have had a habit of putting air filters the size of 4.2 V8 in even 1.9 PD engines .
In life when you have one entity saying it's a bad thing is doubtful , but when you have multiple...
.. "which investigated the high failure rates of modern MAF sensors. Several factors where involved which revealed what many have suspected all along.
Higher air flow capability with the K&N is the result of larger pores in the filter media to offset the smaller total area when compared to any OEM filter. Oil is used to help trap the dirt when it comes in contact with the filter media. One of the aspects of this design allows what is referred to as "Tracking" where certain regions of the filter media as a result of internal air box flow patterns directs particles to specific regions of the filter more than others. What occurs next is those regions lose the oil saturation to the increased dirt loading allowing particles in the 90 micron range to pass through the media since there is no longer any more residual oil in the local pores.
Oil migration. Oil migration occurs when the motor is in warm climates and/or operating at high engine speeds where the volume of air passing accross the filter carries small amounts of oil into the air stream post filter which is now entering the motor.
Particles less than 90 microns... Pull a hair out of your head and push it through the filter media, if it passes through you have a filter with pores GREATER than 100 Microns in size! This is the primary issue with MAF sensors. MAF sensors rely on filtration quality that captures 95% of all particles greater in size than 15 microns. Ideally 10 micron capability would result in longer life but now the physical size of the filter is increased to offset the fine fitlering capability when using conventional or synthetic fibers in an "Un-Oiled" air filter.
MAF air flow sensor design. MAF sensors use micrscopic heating elements placed on a circuit board. The heating element provides a constant rise in temperature to provide a known condition for the ECU to calculate air flow. On the leading edge of the MAF sensor is a temperature sensor which measures the temperature of the air passing over the leading edge, this temperature returns a value to the ECU. As the air passes over the heated portion of the MAF sensor heat is transmitted to the air stream thus heating it. As the air passes accross the back portion of the sensor a second temperature reading is taken. Higher flow rates result in lower temperature rise, lower flow rates result in higher temperature rises.
Another aspect of the MAF sensor is static build up on the leading edge of the sensor element. This static charge causes small particles of dirt and debris to adhere to the elements leading edge distorting the laminar flow characteristics of the sensor throwing off the temeperature readings take accross the elements surface. Over time rotors form accross the back side of the build up depositing oil, dirt and anything else that is in the slip stream directly onto the heating elements surface. What happens next is that the oil/dirt or any combination of the two insulates the heating element causing it to overheat and short out. The result is a complete loss of data to the ECU causing it to revert to default values stored as a limp home function.
The precursor to the failure is often a reduction in peformance as a result of inaccurate thermal readings accross the sensor plate. As the dirt accumulates power typically drops off until the heating element fails.
OEM air filters believe it or not out perform K&N in all aspects. This is easily done by using filter media which has much smaller pore size (5 microns on "average") this allows typical filtration to hit the 10-15 micron range with the 95% effective range. However the fine filtration capabily results in more restriction, the restriction is offset by increasing the depth and number of the pleats the media uses. The biggest advantage to this is that the OEM filters are able to go 50,000-100,000 miles between changes WITHOUT resulting in any increases of restriction or worse yet ALLOWING MORE DIRT TO GET IN THE MOTOR! OEM filters REGARDLESS of miles or time in use perform as well or BETTER the more they are used again up until the reach the maximum restriction point (15" or 25" WC).
Most OEM air filters have anywhere between 1-4" water colum of restriction when new. A fitler is considered to be "Loaded" when restriction reaches 15" WC on naturally aspirated motors and 25"WC on turbo or supercharged vehicles. Regardless of how dirty the filter may look provided restriction does not exceed the above numbers the filter is providing 95% efficiency at removing all particles greater than 10-15 microns.
Bottom line is that using any type of high flow filter that does not meet the 95% filtering capability at 15 microns is asking for trouble.
Call K&N and ask them what their filtering efficiency is at 15 microns and if they will warranty the MAF if it becomes contaminated and burns out... I will save you the time, they will laugh at you and not do a thing."
Is it really worth it for the 1 bhp you might gain , VAG have had a habit of putting air filters the size of 4.2 V8 in even 1.9 PD engines .
Last edited:
Like i said, 25yrs experience with K and N , no issues at all. Have you ever used a K and N filter? Have you hands on experience with them?
As for VAG and air filters, they dont even change them lol. They are so good, they are happy to leave them in full of crap 40k miles later.........yes true story by many many people who have the cars/suvs serviced by audi and VW.
Exactly, never an issue and many different types of vehicles, from fiesta turbo, sapphire cosworth, WRX , old V6 shogun petrol, and even the Touareg previous to this. In fact it was the only thing (K&N) i did not have trouble with !!!! Wish bones, injectors...........what a ****!
That is silly , although a used filter has a very little drop in performance but will filter better .
A 1.9 tdi...
A 1.9 tdi...
As for 1hp, thats just rubbish. Regardless if its 1hp or 4hp, its not the full picture. Response, no need to keep removing snorkel which in itself can cause issues. Then if the owner is not capable or have time, relies on VAG. There is a very good chance it wont be changed, this has been proved many times over . So then your driving for 1000's or 10's of 1000s of miles with a dirty clogged filter. I like to know where i am up to, not relying on dealer ships . Not saying they are all like that, but read and seen enough horror stories over the years. Not just VAG either..........
I am yet to see and read of all these engines blown up and proved to be K&N filter caused. Who knows Audi got the air filter right anyway. Lets be honest, the have a lot of "normal" issues, chain tensioners they cant get right, a critical part of their engines. Not only that, the v6 sc also suffers from the exact same tensioners failing............ Just one example of an issue that audi has done nothing about, knowing there is an ongoing issue . I digress, but i will leave it at this, i am happy with my K and N, i am also happy not relying on VAG to service my car and i know where i am up to regarding servicing .
I am yet to see and read of all these engines blown up and proved to be K&N filter caused. Who knows Audi got the air filter right anyway. Lets be honest, the have a lot of "normal" issues, chain tensioners they cant get right, a critical part of their engines. Not only that, the v6 sc also suffers from the exact same tensioners failing............ Just one example of an issue that audi has done nothing about, knowing there is an ongoing issue . I digress, but i will leave it at this, i am happy with my K and N, i am also happy not relying on VAG to service my car and i know where i am up to regarding servicing .
Lol , so everyone who gets their car mapped, custom exhaust , stage 1 on their s4 super charged , stage 2 at unicorn . Maybe unicorn need to know they are wasting their time, as VAG know better
Besides where would the justification be for Ferrari or lambo charging £1000’s for a service, if they didn’t need to change the air filter . All because they fitted a K and N
Karl - DesertStorm removed his panel filter simulating a free flow filter from his 200 bhp + 1.9 tdi and gained 1 hp .
That really doesn’t prove anything as it’s still not a K and N or piper or ??? Filter. Removing a filter simulates not having a filter. It can not simulate a performance filter as it’s not the same. From
What I have read , on the v8 , you gain around 3 horses. Then there is response time. My main reason is I know they are good with many years of experience with them. Ease of cleaning , not for 3hp or ?.
Forced induction is usually greater. But then you have variables on dynos to. What I get at one, will be different at another dyno. Not to mention a variable with every engine! Then ambient temps hence why cars feel more responsive on cold fresh days, than they do on a hot summers day.
What I have read , on the v8 , you gain around 3 horses. Then there is response time. My main reason is I know they are good with many years of experience with them. Ease of cleaning , not for 3hp or ?.
Forced induction is usually greater. But then you have variables on dynos to. What I get at one, will be different at another dyno. Not to mention a variable with every engine! Then ambient temps hence why cars feel more responsive on cold fresh days, than they do on a hot summers day.
Not watched and no need , already know what it will say . For every video you find against, there is more for. Anyone can find a video to prove (or try to) someone’s point.
Anyway going round in circles , I’m happy with my filters thank you
Anyway going round in circles , I’m happy with my filters thank you
It's not a filter though if it lets that much though !!
https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
Of course it’s a filter, have you ever see one? Have you ever used one? Do you actually have experience , or are you just going off what you have seen? Or want to see?
Again 25+ years of experience with no issue, not even a MAF issue, which is down to people over oiling anyway .
Or have you used a K and N and it caused issues, catastrophic engine failure ?
What damage does get caused not using an air filter? Does it cause damage ? If it does how come all the cars over the years I have used them in have been issue free?
Again 25+ years of experience with no issue, not even a MAF issue, which is down to people over oiling anyway .
Or have you used a K and N and it caused issues, catastrophic engine failure ?
What damage does get caused not using an air filter? Does it cause damage ? If it does how come all the cars over the years I have used them in have been issue free?
Of course it’s a filter, have you ever see one? Have you ever used one? Do you actually have experience , or are you just going off what you have seen? Or want to see?
Again 25+ years of experience with no issue, not even a MAF issue, which is down to people over oiling anyway .
Or have you used a K and N and it caused issues, catastrophic engine failure ?
What damage does get caused not using an air filter? Does it cause damage ? If it does how come all the cars over the years I have used them in have been issue free?
Again 25+ years of experience with no issue, not even a MAF issue, which is down to people over oiling anyway .
Or have you used a K and N and it caused issues, catastrophic engine failure ?
What damage does get caused not using an air filter? Does it cause damage ? If it does how come all the cars over the years I have used them in have been issue free?
Oooo a triple post, mind you I feel like it’s repeating anyway.
Back to 1.9 TDI mods But I am sure someone will want a last word my god , it’s like school . Good night
Back to 1.9 TDI mods But I am sure someone will want a last word my god , it’s like school . Good night
Haha ,
I stopped buying colgate when they got rid of a load of UK jobs in manchester, moved to Poland. Should try sensodyne , dentists recommend it
Especially more so with the smiles per miles from our performance air filters
I stopped buying colgate when they got rid of a load of UK jobs in manchester, moved to Poland. Should try sensodyne , dentists recommend it
Especially more so with the smiles per miles from our performance air filters
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2015
- Messages
- 1,191
- Reaction score
- 431
- Points
- 83
Regards the filter it's a fashion thing lol! Some people like it some don't, I like the sounds but I have never noticed any changes other than that tbh.
I've done it in the past but on my current car I'd rather put that money towards other upgrades that are more important for me personally.
As fo your tuning upgrades I'd go clutch, exhuast and a decent custom remap and see where that gets you, oh and put some better discs and a set of nice pads to help you stop better...
I've done it in the past but on my current car I'd rather put that money towards other upgrades that are more important for me personally.
As fo your tuning upgrades I'd go clutch, exhuast and a decent custom remap and see where that gets you, oh and put some better discs and a set of nice pads to help you stop better...
Haha ,
I stopped buying colgate when they got rid of a load of UK jobs in manchester, moved to Poland. Should try sensodyne , dentists recommend it
Especially more so with the smiles per miles from our performance air filters
That's a recommendation I'm happy to try.
There's now a "Performance" version of OE with it's deep pleats , looks like it'll actually filter very well than pass dust K&N .
