Anyone Ever Seen Or Fitted One Of These?

[smurfworth]

Basically, as we all probably know the standard sub sounds rubbish from the outside, however I know your all thinking.. Don't listen to it from the outside then.

However, having to get the bass that I like means having to drive the door speakers harder because you can't control the subwoofer separately.

So, I've been looking around and wish I'd bought the andymac sub while I could due to it being a legendary bit of kit that we unfortunately no longer have access too (RIP Andy)

So this looks like the alternative:

http://www.rw-online.co.uk/audi-a3-8p-8"-enclosure~1079

Or as a package

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A3-8...-Bass-Package-Audio-Upgrade-Amp-/360896768484

Now, the mk5 chassis is the only ones I've seen and to me it looks like it's pretty straight forward:

http://www.r32oc.com/topic/43677-group-buy-golf-mk5-mk6-custom-10-subwoofer-enclosure/

Any thoughts, anything I should know, whatever really..

Could also possibly make it into a group buy?

Discuss

 

[manor13]

I would be interested in the enclosure if you run a GB.

 

[S3_Jacko]

Theres was a boy on here Josh that was doing a custom install in his S3... Cant mind his name now, but he built a lot of stuff himself and might be able to give you some tips... I'll come back if I remember his name or find his thread

 

[smurfworth]

Theres was a boy on here Josh that was doing a custom install in his S3... Cant mind his name now, but he built a lot of stuff himself and might be able to give you some tips... I'll come back if I remember his name or find his thread

I got a feeling I remember what your on about, it was a sprint blue sportback, and I'm pretty sure the guy was doing a full audio upgrade?

 

[Gazwould]

Those sealed boxes are good, to maximise it's potential I would choose a separate 8" sub and amp , JL Audio and alike , paying the most attention to matching a sub to the small internal 8 L volume.

If you find one that's optimal is a bit bigger than 8L add some polyfill inside the box.


If you can get a 10" with 15 L + even better.

 

[bentwenty]

Copied and pasted from a thread I replied to a few days ago. I just finished my install using on of these boxes and few other bits, hope this helps, any questions, feel free to ask.
I ended up filling the box with wadding to get a little more bottom end out of it.
I wouldn't bother with the package you linked, better off getting your own bits separately as you will get better results. I found that the JL sub offers plenty off bass as it is pretty much perfectly matched for the enclosure. Here is my response:

I have just finished my install in my 03 A3 8P 2.0TDI. I did it in two stages because of the cost.
My ultimate aim was not for a loud, or flashy system, but an audiophile grade sound that was reliable.
I have used the standard symphony II head unit as it has 4x pre-outs. I fitted a £50 aux in kit.
I ran 4AWG wire with a 50A inline fuse from the battery through the rubber boot by the wiper motor and along under the interior trim to the boot.
I then built my own small amp cabinet in the boot and fitted two 12V PC fans on a digital temperature controller for cooling.
I have two amps, the first is a JL Audio JX360/4, this is powering 4x 6" carbon fiber Focal component speakers installed with ebay adapters in the factory locations. I have run my own 16AWG wiring for the speakers.
The second amp is a JL Audio JX250/1, it is powering a JL Audio 8W3V3-4 sub, installed in a custom fit MDF box from ebay that fits in the factory sub location with some modification to the carpet.
I have spent a long time adding things and solving problems with this system, but I'm finally happy with it. All in it cost me about £750, but no expense was spared.
Here are a few pics. Feel free to ask any questions.

 

[S3_Jacko]

I got a feeling I remember what your on about, it was a sprint blue sportback, and I'm pretty sure the guy was doing a full audio upgrade?

Yeah mate thats the 1

 

[smurfworth]

Copied and pasted from a thread I replied to a few days ago. I just finished my install using on of these boxes and few other bits, hope this helps, any questions, feel free to ask.
I ended up filling the box with wadding to get a little more bottom end out of it.
I wouldn't bother with the package you linked, better off getting your own bits separately as you will get better results. I found that the JL sub offers plenty off bass as it is pretty much perfectly matched for the enclosure. Here is my response:

I have just finished my install in my 03 A3 8P 2.0TDI. I did it in two stages because of the cost.
My ultimate aim was not for a loud, or flashy system, but an audiophile grade sound that was reliable.
I have used the standard symphony II head unit as it has 4x pre-outs. I fitted a £50 aux in kit.
I ran 4AWG wire with a 50A inline fuse from the battery through the rubber boot by the wiper motor and along under the interior trim to the boot.
I then built my own small amp cabinet in the boot and fitted two 12V PC fans on a digital temperature controller for cooling.
I have two amps, the first is a JL Audio JX360/4, this is powering 4x 6" carbon fiber Focal component speakers installed with ebay adapters in the factory locations. I have run my own 16AWG wiring for the speakers.
The second amp is a JL Audio JX250/1, it is powering a JL Audio 8W3V3-4 sub, installed in a custom fit MDF box from ebay that fits in the factory sub location with some modification to the carpet.
I have spent a long time adding things and solving problems with this system, but I'm finally happy with it. All in it cost me about £750, but no expense was spared.
Here are a few pics. Feel free to ask any questions.

Thats good mate thanks, what sort of problems did you have with the sub and amp setup if any?

Looks to me like its the same sub that andymac used in his stealth sub.

So basically by filling the box with wadding you made the capacity smaller?

I was also looking on ebay earlier and came across an amp remote controller which is what I'm after so i could change the level of the sub from the drivers seat essentially.

I'd also be interested to know what happens to the carpet where the sub sits, do you have to cut it away or does it just fold behind the sub enclosure?

 

[bentwenty]

No worries, the main problems were keeping the amps cool, and a ground loop issue.
The ground loop causes a whining noise which goes up and down in pitch with the rpm of the engine. It happened because I ran low impedance wire for the +VE straight from the battery, but used a small length of the same wire to connect the -VE to the chassis in the boot and used very good quality low impedance wire for the pre outs from the headunit to the amps. The chassis between the battery and the amp has a higher impedance than the wire for the +VE and the grounding between the headunit and the amp and this causes a ground loop. I solved it with a pair of stereo ground loop isolating transformers at £15 each off eBay.
Yeah it may well be. I also wanted one of Andymac's enclosures, but had to do this instead.
The wadding actually makes the box seem bigger to the sub as it slows down the air moving in the box.
I personally didn't fit a remote as I have found that by setting up the amps correctly I can get a very nicely balanced sound. I do occasionally go to the boot at the it up a bit. You shouldn't have any trouble setting it up with a remote if you want one.
The carpet needs to be cut to the profile of the body of the box, but the front of the box is actually larger than the body, so it will hide any **** ups lol. That was the bit that worried me as well, but I had no trouble with it as it all fits nicely.

 

[smurfworth]

No worries, the main problems were keeping the amps cool, and a ground loop issue.
The ground loop causes a whining noise which goes up and down in pitch with the rpm of the engine. It happened because I ran low impedance wire for the +VE straight from the battery, but used a small length of the same wire to connect the -VE to the chassis in the boot and used very good quality low impedance wire for the pre outs from the headunit to the amps. The chassis between the battery and the amp has a higher impedance than the wire for the +VE and the grounding between the headunit and the amp and this causes a ground loop. I solved it with a pair of stereo ground loop isolating transformers at £15 each off eBay.
Yeah it may well be. I also wanted one of Andymac's enclosures, but had to do this instead.
The wadding actually makes the box seem bigger to the sub as it slows down the air moving in the box.
I personally didn't fit a remote as I have found that by setting up the amps correctly I can get a very nicely balanced sound. I do occasionally go to the boot at the it up a bit. You shouldn't have any trouble setting it up with a remote if you want one.
The carpet needs to be cut to the profile of the body of the box, but the front of the box is actually larger than the body, so it will hide any **** ups lol. That was the bit that worried me as well, but I had no trouble with it as it all fits nicely.

So, if i bought one of these wiring kits i wouldn't have the issue you experienced?: http://www.rw-online.co.uk/1000w-10-awg-amplifier-wiring-kit~752

Did you connect into the standard sub wiring loom to get the outputs?

i was also thinking about adding a bit of MDF next to the sub because my OCD doesn't like the fact that the sub sits further out than the rest of the boot panel

 

[bentwenty]

So, if i bought one of these wiring kits i wouldn't have the issue you experienced?: http://www.rw-online.co.uk/1000w-10-awg-amplifier-wiring-kit~752

Did you connect into the standard sub wiring loom to get the outputs?

i was also thinking about adding a bit of MDF next to the sub because my OCD doesn't like the fact that the sub sits further out than the rest of the boot panel

You would probably still have a ground loop issue. Also if you do go for the JL Audio JX series amps (or anything half decent for that matter) 10AWG like in that kit won't be man enough, JL Audio recommend a minimum of 4AWG and a 50A fuse.

If you want a very good system, you are best off following the amp/driver manufacturers specifications for things like wiring, rather than buying kits. I am happy to help you find the best components for your build if you need help

The 'proper' way of solving a groung loop issue is to have all of your devices (amps, headunit, battery, charger for your phone if you use it for an aux in) share a single grounding point as the impedance of all your ground wiring will be low. As this is inconvenient to do, running all of your amp inputs through these (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400364531335?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT) will solve the problem. Most people don't have this issue as they use poor quality cable for the line level inputs to the amps.

I have the Symphony II headunit, so I broke into the headunit wiring to get 4x pre outs and ran 4 RCA cables and a remote line to the boot. This is the wiring diagram (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/dizzythedog/symphonyII_pin-1.jpg), the pre outs are at the bottom left.

I personally don't mind the sub sticking out a bit, never gets in the way. I would have thought mdf and carpet etc would be more hassle than its worth, manoeuvring the sub and the carpet panel in and out while fitting is difficult enough as it is lol...

Oooh also if you do install it and get a popping noise over bumps etc, its the bobble on the end of the string for the parcel shelf hitting the sub. Took me ******* ages to work that out!! I solved it by putting a grill over the sub driver lol.

 

[smurfworth]

It confuses me so much this audio stuff, i can do anything mechanical with ease but electrical i have no idea.

So far, as far as I've read its probably harder to just install a sub and amp and keep the standard front and rear speakers?

My setup is currently RNS-E with bose

Id like to simply do away with the bose sub but keep all other speakers working fine, however as far as i know the bose sub and rear speakers are powered from the same amp on the drivers side of the boot.

My list so far is this:

with a JL Audio JX250/1

http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/jx250-1-car-audio-jx-amplifiers-99398

powering a JL Audio 8W3V3-4

http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/8w3v3-4-car-audio-w3v3-subwoofer-drivers-92148

using 2000W 4 AWG Amplifier wiring kit

http://www.rw-online.co.uk/2000w-4-awg-amplifier-wiring-kit~754

with a JL Audio JL-RBC1 Remote Bass Controller so i can control how loud i want the sub from the seat

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JL-Audio-...1?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item27df02f06b

and one of these to stop the ground loop issue plugged in before the amp

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400364531...TRK:MEBIDX:IT&clk_rvr_id=695646669309&afsrc=1

then would i need a speaker to RCA connector?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPEAKER-T...tem3f04c2edac&clk_rvr_id=695654876064&afsrc=1

so far I've worked everything out but how to get the sound input to the amp/sub as I've no idea where to get that from, could i not get that from the standard sub connector?

 

[bentwenty]

No worries lol.
Right, in my opinion the Bose sound system is not all it's cracked up to be, that applies both to what they offer in Audis and in their hifi line up, but that's just my opinion so feel free to go with what you want lol.

Having got that out the way, you are going to have to lay most of the wiring for converting your main speakers anyway if you install a sub. I would suggest getting an extra 4 channel amp and two sets of speakers and going all out as you are already doing most of the work.

If you want to keep your main speakers, that should be possible, I would recommend leaving the wiring in the boot alone, and taking your input for the sub from the wiring harness on the back of the rnse.
From here (http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m108/animal1_2006/8P S3/P1020109.jpg) it looks like you have line outs on connector c, pins 3, 5, 8, 9 and 11, 8 is a common -VE for all of them and 3 is front left +VE etc...

If you just want to do the sub I would add an 8" grill to your list and you should be good to go, I used these (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=150900409844 ) screws to hold the sub it, it's a bit of a right fit, I had to trim the rubber surround down a bit.

Other than that you look good to go.

In terms of connecting the line level input of the amp to the headunit. The easiest thing is to simply splice and solder your wiring into the harness on the back of the RNSE.

If you do want to a full system upgrade, you can use the same outputs from the RNSE , and an extra stereo RCA cable to the boot to connect to the amps.

If you do that, I would add these things to your list, note that this is how I chose to do it, there are alternatives available...

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=121415452358
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=181333261305 (two pairs, so 4 total)
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=171242847878
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=230803128434 (2x, so 20m total)
An additional stereo RCA cable (5m is long enough)
An additional ground loop isolator.
You may also want some m5 nuts and bolts for holding the speakers in.
Once again, that is exactly how I did my install, feel free to pick and choose what you want to suit your own goals.
I am happy to answer as best I can if you get stuck

Edit: having done a bit more research, I'm no sure if your rear speakers are powered by the amp in the sub, mine were on the standard sound system. If this is the case, it is still possible to do just the sub upgrade, you could remove the amp from the Bose sub and leave it in the wheel arch powering the speakers.
But you would be better off doing the whole lot yourself tbh. Although of course you do need to find or make somewhere to hid your amps and wiring...

 

[smurfworth]

No worries lol.
Right, in my opinion the Bose sound system is not all it's cracked up to be, that applies both to what they offer in Audis and in their hifi line up, but that's just my opinion so feel free to go with what you want lol.

Having got that out the way, you are going to have to lay most of the wiring for converting your main speakers anyway if you install a sub. I would suggest getting an extra 4 channel amp and two sets of speakers and going all out as you are already doing most of the work.

If you want to keep your main speakers, that should be possible, I would recommend leaving the wiring in the boot alone, and taking your input for the sub from the wiring harness on the back of the rnse.
From here (http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m108/animal1_2006/8P S3/P1020109.jpg) it looks like you have line outs on connector c, pins 3, 5, 8, 9 and 11, 8 is a common -VE for all of them and 3 is front left +VE etc...

If you just want to do the sub I would add an 8" grill to your list and you should be good to go, I used these (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=150900409844 ) screws to hold the sub it, it's a bit of a right fit, I had to trim the rubber surround down a bit.

Other than that you look good to go.

In terms of connecting the line level input of the amp to the headunit. The easiest thing is to simply splice and solder your wiring into the harness on the back of the RNSE.

If you do want to a full system upgrade, you can use the same outputs from the RNSE , and an extra stereo RCA cable to the boot to connect to the amps.

If you do that, I would add these things to your list, note that this is how I chose to do it, there are alternatives available...

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=121415452358
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=181333261305 (two pairs, so 4 total)
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=171242847878
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=230803128434 (2x, so 20m total)
An additional stereo RCA cable (5m is long enough)
An additional ground loop isolator.
You may also want some m5 nuts and bolts for holding the speakers in.
Once again, that is exactly how I did my install, feel free to pick and choose what you want to suit your own goals.
I am happy to answer as best I can if you get stuck

Edit: having done a bit more research, I'm no sure if your rear speakers are powered by the amp in the sub, mine were on the standard sound system. If this is the case, it is still possible to do just the sub upgrade, you could remove the amp from the Bose sub and leave it in the wheel arch powering the speakers.
But you would be better off doing the whole lot yourself tbh. Although of course you do need to find or make somewhere to hid your amps and wiring...

So you'd have both left and right positives of the speaker to RCA Converter in pin 3, and the negatives in pin 8? and then thats all you'd need to connect up behind the RNSE?

 

[bentwenty]

Sorry I wasn't clear enough, that is just the wiring harness on the back of the RNSE, you will have to splice into the relevant wires.
Pin 8 is a common -VE, pin 3 is front left +VE, pin 5 is rear left +VE, pin 9 if front right and pin 11 is rear right. That is just according to the diagram I found for 'Audi a3 RNSE wiring diagram', there should be a sticker on yours that agrees with that.
So if you were just doing the sub, you would splice both of the RCA negatives to pin 8, and the positives to pins 9 and 11 (do both as the JX250/1 has stereo inputs).
If you do the full setup, splice all four negatives to pin 8 and each positive to the relevant pin. At that point it is really worth attaching labels to the cables to identify later.
The JX360/4 has a stereo pre out witch you can link straight I to the line in of the sub amp to save an extra wiring run from the front...
Hope this clears it up a bit for you

 

[Jamie TDI140]

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand welcome to 2016! (almost to the date too). @bentwenty.... at some point in the future (more than likely next year now), I shall be upgrading my standard sub ONLY, going to leave the doors, maybe just add soundproofing. Anyway, would I be able to contact you when I do it for some help and advice?

I realise you don't actually have the A3 anymore, but you clearly have a good amount of knowledge on the subject and electricals in cars aren't my favourite tbh.

 

[Spike1979]

No worries, the main problems were keeping the amps cool, and a ground loop issue.
The ground loop causes a whining noise which goes up and down in pitch with the rpm of the engine. It happened because I ran low impedance wire for the +VE straight from the battery, but used a small length of the same wire to connect the -VE to the chassis in the boot and used very good quality low impedance wire for the pre outs from the headunit to the amps. The chassis between the battery and the amp has a higher impedance than the wire for the +VE and the grounding between the headunit and the amp and this causes a ground loop. I solved it with a pair of stereo ground loop isolating transformers at £15 each off eBay.
Yeah it may well be. I also wanted one of Andymac's enclosures, but had to do this instead.
The wadding actually makes the box seem bigger to the sub as it slows down the air moving in the box.
I personally didn't fit a remote as I have found that by setting up the amps correctly I can get a very nicely balanced sound. I do occasionally go to the boot at the it up a bit. You shouldn't have any trouble setting it up with a remote if you want one.
The carpet needs to be cut to the profile of the body of the box, but the front of the box is actually larger than the body, so it will hide any **** ups lol. That was the bit that worried me as well, but I had no trouble with it as it all fits nicely.

How does the enclosure stay in place once the hole is cut out in the boot panel?

 

[LarrySFU]

How does the enclosure stay in place once the hole is cut out in the boot panel?

Old thread lol, but I'm assuming it sits on the body of the car and rests above the wheel arch. Once you've cut into the carpet trim, you'd fit in the smaller end of the enclosure first (through the trim), so it'll then sit on the body of the car/wheel arch and the carpet rear side wall trim(which is joined to the plastic that is held up above with 2/3 T20 screws) will provide it some support and there's not really gonna be anywhere it can go, so it just has to sit there.