ABS/EPS ERROR

Abi

Registered User
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Hi had an error pop up on my dash this morning after being driven daily then then stood for two weeks until today. ESP/ABS problem also start/stop has an error and hill start isn’t working either. Is this sensor easy to replace??


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Troubs12

Active Member
VCDS Map User
c32118a8d7f9d1a718b9496f8205e324.jpg

Hi had an error pop up on my dash this morning after being driven daily then then stood for two weeks until today. ESP/ABS problem also start/stop has an error and hill start isn’t working either. Is this sensor easy to replace??


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I’d try the drivers side rear wheel bearing first. Odds are the abs ring is starting to corrode out.


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Abi

Registered User
I’m driving to Norfolk Saturday 100miles each way, is it safe to drive??


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NHN

Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat
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Ideally I'd swap out either the bearing or the sensor, or both, but you can still drive, just be a little more aware.

As Neil says, me & him both had experience of this, mine was the bearing, however given the cost & time, I swapped out the sensor & bearing as I had stripped the lot out anyway & the sensor was about 15 years old ;).
 
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Abi

Registered User
Ideally I'd swap out either the bearing or the sensor, or both, but you can still drive, just be a little more aware.

As Neil says, me & him both had experience of this, mine was the bearing, however given the cost & time, I swapped out the sensor & bearing as I had stripped the lot out anyway & the sensor was about 15 years old ;).

I’m collecting the new sensor tomorrow morning and going to try and fit next week while on holiday. Is it easy to get to once the wheel is off (not had chance to look what with work etc) just one retraining bolt looking at a picture of the sensor.
Are any special tools required if I need to change the bearing assembly, like a puller?


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NHN

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Its allot of torque for that bearing tbh, so a good wrench, take note of bolt type when torquing as they vary in nm.
 

NHN

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Without teaching you to suck eggs, just don't damage the bearing & of course tighten fully on the ground with wheel on, its doubtful you'll reach the torque as I recall from my chat with Neil, neither of us iirc got to the number, its tight, something like 180-200 plus 90 or something, can't recall atm, sure Neil can advise.
 

Abi

Registered User
Without teaching you to suck eggs, just don't damage the bearing & of course tighten fully on the ground with wheel on, its doubtful you'll reach the torque as I recall from my chat with Neil, neither of us iirc got to the number, its tight, something like 180-200 plus 90 or something, can't recall atm, sure Neil can advise.

No problem, was gonna loosen the nut on the ground too, know there ****** tight, I have the manual on cd to get the correct torque, never know might just be the sensor


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Abi

Registered User
Well tried to remove the sensor and the obvious happened! It snapped!
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What’s the best way to get it out? Remove the calliper and disc and nock it through?


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Troubs12

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Without teaching you to suck eggs, just don't damage the bearing & of course tighten fully on the ground with wheel on, its doubtful you'll reach the torque as I recall from my chat with Neil, neither of us iirc got to the number, its tight, something like 180-200 plus 90 or something, can't recall atm, sure Neil can advise.


Yeah that’s probably the only way you’ll get it out unfortunately I’ve only ever managed to get a couple out safely in 20 years in the trade. That’s another reason I do bearing first to be honest.

Also yeah it’s 200Nm and then 180 degrees it’s almost impossible unless you’ve got a 2 metre bar.


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Troubs12

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2m bar + scaffolding bar


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Yeah that would probably work however you’ve got to keep the socket in place while you’re putting the angle on it’s a massive pain. I used to use a inch drive bar. But then I also had a ramp with makes life easier. I’ve done a few rear bearings since and never yet managed to get the full 180 with my 1m bar got close a few times though lol


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Abi

Registered User
Yeah that would probably work however you’ve got to keep the socket in place while you’re putting the angle on it’s a massive pain. I used to use a inch drive bar. But then I also had a ramp with makes life easier. I’ve done a few rear bearings since and never yet managed to get the full 180 with my 1m bar got close a few times though lol


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Possibly a 2 man job, one holding the socket square and one applying the pressure. Need to remove the old sensor first and fit the new, hopefully that will cure the problem. See my earlier post this evening.


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Troubs12

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Possibly a 2 man job, one holding the socket square and one applying the pressure. Need to remove the old sensor first and fit the new, hopefully that will cure the problem. See my earlier post this evening.


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Possibly a 2 man job, one holding the socket square and one applying the pressure. Need to remove the old sensor first and fit the new, hopefully that will cure the problem. See my earlier post this evening.


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Yeah mate I did see that it’s horrible when that happens. Though you’re not gonna be able to knock it through without removing the bearing thinking about. Too be honest the bearings are cheap enough I’ve fitted quite a few £20-30 ones from eBay and the like and they’ve all been spot on. Though I’d advise getting a genuine bolt.


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Abi

Registered User
OK, I’ve removed the clearly damaged sensor and replaced it and cleaned the ABS ring but I’m still getting the same error code,
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Chris-P

Audi A3 8P Owner 2011-2019
Yep, safety related stuff like ABS, airbags etc. Fingers crossed it clears.
 

Abi

Registered User
I’ve cleared down the error code but once I drive her the warning still appears on the dash
New hub I think!!


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Troubs12

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I’ve cleared down the error code but once I drive her the warning still appears on the dash
New hub I think!!


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Just confirm with measured value blocks but yeah definitely sounds like new bearing time. It’s an easy job to do to be fair.


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Abi

Registered User
Just confirm with measured value blocks but yeah definitely sounds like new bearing time. It’s an easy job to do to be fair.


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Hope so, just that splined nut!!


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Troubs12

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Hope so, just that splined nut!!


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If I remember correctly it’s an M18 it’s not too bad really. As for the torque after you’ve clicked your 200nm scratch or draw a line on the bolt and turn it in stages until the lines moved 180 degrees. I had to do a bearing for a mate yesterday and for the angle it was much easier to stage it


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Abi

Registered User
If I remember correctly it’s an M18 it’s not too bad really. As for the torque after you’ve clicked your 200nm scratch or draw a line on the bolt and turn it in stages until the lines moved 180 degrees. I had to do a bearing for a mate yesterday and for the angle it was much easier to stage it


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Yes your correct with the torque etc.. I’ve got the impact 18mm spline tool and a 600nm impact gun to hopefully remove the bolt, fingers crossed


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Troubs12

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Yes your correct with the torque etc.. I’ve got the impact 18mm spline tool and a 600nm impact gun to hopefully remove the bolt, fingers crossed


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You’ll be fine with a bar mate personally I’ve always found it easier to use a metre long bar than a gun. Leverage is key


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Abi

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You’ll be fine with a bar mate personally I’ve always found it easier to use a metre long bar than a gun. Leverage is key


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Tried to get the hub bolt out but wouldn’t budge with the gun, gonna try with my breaker bar tomorrow (working today) just one little question, are the bolts threaded the same regardless of which side I’m doing? ie one side L/H thread and the other side R/H thread? I’m doing drivers side.


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Abi

Registered User
Finally got the hub bolt out and the hub off, I think the ABS ring is shot too haha, new one ordered
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Troubs12

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Finally got the hub bolt out and the hub off, I think the ABS ring is shot too haha, new one ordered
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I’ve only just seen this and wow that’s a good job done on that one. Usually you see a couple of sections worn away. It’s a shame the ring itself isn’t replaceable really as the bearings probably fine.


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Abi

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I’ve only just seen this and wow that’s a good job done on that one. Usually you see a couple of sections worn away. It’s a shame the ring itself isn’t replaceable really as the bearings probably fine.


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£25 for new assembly with 2 year warranty, can’t complain at that, should be here tomorrow


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Troubs12

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£25 for new assembly with 2 year warranty, can’t complain at that, should be here tomorrow


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Damn right I’ve had a couple of those on my car for the past 5-6 years. As I said before it’s easier/cheaper to replace the bearing first


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Abi

Registered User
Damn right I’ve had a couple of those on my car for the past 5-6 years. As I said before it’s easier/cheaper to replace the bearing first


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Too true, my sensor was shot too though £70 all in and a little of my time…


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