A couple of things about 1.8t engine building

[S3AMJ]

Just in case you were unsure about how bad the lightweight alloy crank dampers are.

Light weight crank pulley for a mk3 golf gti 8v gd or bd?

Hi can anyone help on the brain teaser i have come accross, does a light weight crank pulley play any part in the engines performance output, im...

www.clubgti.com

View attachment 249534

If you want to reduce the rotating mass of ancilliaries fit a smaller alternator. Or change the alternator clutch pulley to a larger item as the stock alternator reaches it's 18K RPM limit around 7400 rpm.

Mk1 TT 225 track day car, Officially a ten second car 10.8 seconds at 127 mph.

Been preparing a few things for the gearbox install when it gets warmer in a few months. The Steering wheel I bought I made an aluminium plate for the front to mount the race mode / push to pass switches and the horn. Covered it in some Black Sticky back plastic rather than paint it. Looks OK...

www.audi-sport.net

Mk1 TT 225 track day car, Officially a ten second car 10.8 seconds at 127 mph.

Shopping on Ebay again. Decided that the Michelin Pilot Supersports were great and really gave the car loads of grip but on a hot day like Sunday and on a faster track they would probably get ripped up quite quickly. So decided to get some proper track day tyres and put the Michelins on another...

www.audi-sport.net

That’s quite an impressive fail! Don’t think I’ve ever seen one as bad.


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[desertstorm]

Btw did you use a wrist pin from the kit? People suggest a pin with a thicker wall for the ower 500hp. One that I got in the kit is 4.572mm wall thickness.

Shop High Quality JE Pistons Wrist Pin - 0.787 In. Diameter - 2.250 In. Length - 0.180 In. Wall - 5115 Material

Shop High Quality Engine Piston Wrist Pin online at JE shop Wrist Pin - 0.787 in. Diameter - 2.250 in. Length - 0.180 in. Wall - 5115 Material for High Performance Engines. Buy SKU 787-2250-18-51C from our store today!

auto.jepistons.com

I found this one with the same dimension as one from the kit but with a thicker wall...Is this good enough to go with?

Shop High Quality JE Pistons Wrist Pin - 0.787 In. Diameter - 2.250 In. Length - 0.210 In. Wall - 9310 Material

Shop High Quality Engine Piston Wrist Pin online at JE shop Wrist Pin - 0.787 in. Diameter - 2.250 in. Length - 0.210 in. Wall - 9310 Material for High Performance Engines. Buy SKU 787-2250-21-93C from our store today!

auto.jepistons.com

Thank you again,
Djordje

Hi yes I used the uprated tool steel wrist pins with the part number you have identified above. The much thicker pin helps to support the piston and doesn't flex as much as the stock pin. Think there are plenty of people using the stock pins but I thought that the uprated pin was a good idea.
The uprated pin on the left, stock JE pin in the centre and the one on the right is a Wossner pin.
JE original 51C pin 94g
JE 93C pin 106g

 

[Djordje1]

Just in case you were unsure about how bad the lightweight alloy crank dampers are.

Light weight crank pulley for a mk3 golf gti 8v gd or bd?

Hi can anyone help on the brain teaser i have come accross, does a light weight crank pulley play any part in the engines performance output, im...

www.clubgti.com

View attachment 249534

If you want to reduce the rotating mass of ancilliaries fit a smaller alternator. Or change the alternator clutch pulley to a larger item as the stock alternator reaches it's 18K RPM limit around 7400 rpm.

Mk1 TT 225 track day car, Officially a ten second car 10.8 seconds at 127 mph.

Been preparing a few things for the gearbox install when it gets warmer in a few months. The Steering wheel I bought I made an aluminium plate for the front to mount the race mode / push to pass switches and the horn. Covered it in some Black Sticky back plastic rather than paint it. Looks OK...

www.audi-sport.net

Mk1 TT 225 track day car, Officially a ten second car 10.8 seconds at 127 mph.

Shopping on Ebay again. Decided that the Michelin Pilot Supersports were great and really gave the car loads of grip but on a hot day like Sunday and on a faster track they would probably get ripped up quite quickly. So decided to get some proper track day tyres and put the Michelins on another...

www.audi-sport.net

Omg this looks horrible.I can't believe what a damage is made just because of lightweight pulleys.Yes exactly, idea was help to helo engine and reduce rotation mass...

I'll take a look and read more on your post.Thank you.

Btw, sorry for late reply.I had busy week...

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[Djordje1]

Hi yes I used the uprated tool steel wrist pins with the part number you have identified above. The much thicker pin helps to support the piston and doesn't flex as much as the stock pin. Think there are plenty of people using the stock pins but I thought that the uprated pin was a good idea.
The uprated pin on the left, stock JE pin in the centre and the one on the right is a Wossner pin.
JE original 51C pin 94g
JE 93C pin 106g

View attachment 249536

Oh great.Where did you buy them?I'll definitely how with thinker one just in case,even if I'm not going about 600.Never know

Thank you,
Djordje

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[Djordje1]

Guys I need advice related to cylinder head.
On my beetle I have AWV engine that is small port 06a

I'm wondering can I swap the cylinder head for large one for example...AGU,BAM or some other one...


Reason for that is just wider/bigger intake...Is it better to
1.keep one that I have and just add spacer from large to small?

2.port small head an match with large intake?

3.Swap for large one?

In case I swap head.What is the thing I have to pay more attention.Different studs?What is the difference between large and small head?


Thank you so much,
Djordje

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[S3AMJ]

Large port is generally used on big turbo builds over the small ports, the heads are virtually the same, stud patterns, etc, etc. other than the obvious larger ports. If your car has VVT then you’ll want to keep this, some large port heads didn’t come with it.


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[<tuffty/>]

BAM is not largeport.... biggest issue is trying to find a large port head thats not worn as the follower bores tend to be overly worn on the older large port heads and leads to low oil pressure on idle and abnormal wear on the tops of the followers where they flop about in the bores

<tuffty/>

 

[Djordje1]

BAM is not largeport.... biggest issue is trying to find a large port head thats not worn as the follower bores tend to be overly worn on the older large port heads and leads to low oil pressure on idle and abnormal wear on the tops of the followers where they flop about in the bores

Thank you so much @desertstorm and @<tuffty/> for quick reply.
Sounds interesting...I'm wondering now is it better then just to keep my head just to avoid some bad worn one...,but just to nicely polish and buy spacer with reduction?Or to port and make it simply large???I'm planning to buy IE large port intake anyway...

Thanks,
Djordje

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[desertstorm]

I got my upgraded pins from a supplier in the USA. At the time I ordered them nobody in the UK appeared to have any stock. With JE being manufactured in the USA plenty of people stock them there. You could try Bill at Badger 5 or Pro Race Engineering.
I currently have a small port head in my car, It actually an APG cylinder head of a 125bhp NA engine. Stock porting it hasn't been touched. Still makes over 500bhp .
I use an SEM large port intake manifold and have one of the 034 spacers pictured above, and this works well.
I have recently bought an AGU large port head and will hopefully be fitting that shortly so will be interesting to see how that works out. The AGU head doesn't have the porting for SAI so if your engine needs that it won't work but a lot of people delete these anyway. VVT can be swapped from a small port to a large port head easily, it's a straight swap.
The Large port heads have very much bigger intake ports than the small port and larger exhaust ports as well.

AWP vs. AEB

funksoulkitty.org

 

[Djordje1]

I got my upgraded pins from a supplier in the USA. At the time I ordered them nobody in the UK appeared to have any stock. With JE being manufactured in the USA plenty of people stock them there. You could try Bill at Badger 5 or Pro Race Engineering.
I currently have a small port head in my car, It actually an APG cylinder head of a 125bhp NA engine. Stock porting it hasn't been touched. Still makes over 500bhp .
I use an SEM large port intake manifold and have one of the 034 spacers pictured above, and this works well.
I have recently bought an AGU large port head and will hopefully be fitting that shortly so will be interesting to see how that works out. The AGU head doesn't have the porting for SAI so if your engine needs that it won't work but a lot of people delete these anyway. VVT can be swapped from a small port to a large port head easily, it's a straight swap.
The Large port heads have very much bigger intake ports than the small port and larger exhaust ports as well.

AWP vs. AEB

funksoulkitty.org

Thank you so much @desertstorm
I'll definitely wait to see your results.That sounds very interesting because you already did all the tuning I'm planing to do except turbo.But setup is almost the same...

Here is the some comparison between different way of polishing and treating the surface of intake and how that affects intake flow.

I'm so curious to see different between small and large port.

Thank you again man!!!Cheers

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[Djordje1]

Guys, the last couple of days I was on the highway and I noticed when I hit the bump on the road my car started floating and keep floating for some time. When I drive a bit faster ...around (160km/h) that is not very comfortable and I'm not feeling that car is "safe" I started reading how to fix this problem and actually it's very simple...Buying a better setup!I read about Bilstein b16 and kw v3 and I think I'll go with kw?

My current setup is:
Bilstein B6(a bit better than stock)
Eibach springs(stock height)
Powerflex poly bushing full kit
H&R anti-roll bar front and rear(stronger than stock/bigger diameter)

Before I install this I thought this will keep the car stiff. Yes, it is, but floating is still here.
Do you have any experience with KW v3 and in general cars floating at a higher speed?
btw Currently I'm 235/40/18 Goodyear f1 asymmetric 5

Also, I think I'll buy and Vibra Technics Transmission mount & engine mount. Do you have any experience with Vibra Technics as well? They look very good to me even the tests that I saw. I will have 3 x more power than stock.

Thank you, everyone
btw I finished fiberglass custom intake. It's very strong and light. It's a raw unfinished look. Needs to be sanded and repaint into a black mat.

 

[Djordje1]

Guys quick one.

I got an offer to buy an AGU head for around 200EUR/165GBP without camshafts...It's a reliable source...I don't need them. I'll buy them new, however.
In general, the engine looks clean I'll go there to check the head before I buy. Do you think is a good opportunity to buy a new head?


Thank you

 

[Djordje1]

I just bought the head

Looks clean if I can say that.We will see what people in machine shop will let me know about this one.But I think I found good one.

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[Djordje1]

hey everyone, I hope you doing well. For the time I'm waiting for parts I'm doing all the secondary things and everything I can prepare to save some time when it comes time to build the engine..

I bought and scan the rocker cover. Currently working on a spacer and I have to send that on CNC.

I also sandblasted rocker cover and before I stared welding on the main parts,I did a testing on the part that I'm planing to cut.There is something wierd happened...

I start warming material with torch and this happened...
Here is also example...Blue one on the edge looks fine,but red one looks wierd.What I did in the red one.I just started warming material and this started expending like foam...Not sure...

But on the middle where I'm planing to make two holes AN8...Basicly what @S3AMJ did. And when I did the thet.Weling is easer and there is no expending marial.Do you have any Ideam,what I'm doing wrong???

I used AlSi and ALmg5.


What do you think guys? @<tuffty/> , @S3AMJ


Thank you,
Djordje

 

[S3AMJ]

My guess is it’s drawing oil out of the metal when your welding and it’s contaminating the weld. I saw this happen a few times on my rocker covers and in different areas, wasn’t consistent at all.


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[Djordje1]

My guess is it’s drawing oil out of the metal when your welding and it’s contaminating the weld. I saw this happen a few times on my rocker covers and in different areas, wasn’t consistent at all.


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Thank you so much, man!

 

[Brad1011]

Sandblasting the rocker cover… I’d throw that in the bin now


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[<tuffty/>]

Sandblasting the rocker cover… I’d throw that in the bin now


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You can do it but you have to remove the oil separator if if has one and the drill/tap to refit... some 20v covers didn't come with an oil separator either so you can get away with it on those too...

Obvs meticulous cleanage afterwards

<tuffty/>

 

[S3AMJ]

You can do it but you have to remove the oil separator if if has one and the drill/tap to refit... some 20v covers didn't come with an oil separator either so you can get away with it on those too...

Obvs meticulous cleanage afterwards

Yeah those rocker cover don’t have any baffling etc in them where blast media can “hide” so “should” be ok


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[Brad1011]

Sounds like a lot of agg to clean it properly


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[<tuffty/>]

Sounds like a lot of agg to clean it properly


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It can be yes but I know this is how Bill does them for customer builds and tbh its not that much work in the grand scheme of things especially if getting it powder coated

<tuffty/>

 

[Djordje1]

Thank you guys a lot for your comments, I'll get back to you soon as I finish the spacer for the coil ignition and weld AN male fitting. I hope successfully
Spacer is still working progress but plan is to make on with cnc...

I wanted to ask for a favor. Can anyone help with some list for fuel line conversion to AN fitting lines...
What do you suggest, how much hose I need, roughly?
Here is also the picture I have...There are actually some measurements from wheel to wheel( 2.6 meters), just to give you a rough idea of how far the fuel tank is from the bonnet.

I'm planning to go with AN6.Do you think that is enough or do I need bigger, maybe 8?

Would be amazing if you can create a list for eg.

1x an6 180 for the return line
1x an6 straight for this and that
3x an6 90 for this and that

I also know that I need and BOSCH 0 450 905 021 fuel filter AN6 to M14x1.5...
Btw do I need this filter instead of OE one or after OE filter?

I don't have enough knowledge and experience. I need your help.
Also would be amazing if you can put on the list all the fuel lines I need to change and how much actually I need>ROUGHLY estimation, part by part.

I'm planning to go without a surge tank.
Do you suggest changing fuel lines from the beginning of the fuel tank or?

Thank you so much for your help.
I believe and hope this will really help other people as well.

Cheers, Djordje

 

[S3AMJ]

Loving the CAD drawings bud, when I made my coil pack spacer I allowed access to the rocker cover bolts. I appreciate it’s not as “clean” looking but for me it was it easier should I ever need to take things apart.


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[Djordje1]

Loving the CAD drawings bud, when I made my coil pack spacer I allowed access to the rocker cover bolts. I appreciate it’s not as “clean” looking but for me it was it easier should I ever need to take things apart.


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Soon as I finish spacer @S3AMJ , I'll share the .cad file and you can use it for free if you really want.

Guys, I received my ECU master black and plug and play adapter and I contacted Badger5 to ask for a remote map, but unfortunately, they are not working remote map for ECU MASTER...If they are doing it, they are doing it just for Ignition. I really hope when I finish the project they will change their mind and help me to finish my project. In that case, I have to find someone else, is there anyone good as Badger5 that can do it for ecumaster?

@<tuffty/> Man, I hope you're doing well. Is there any chance you can help with my previous question? Related to the rough list of AN Fitting with parts I need to change the fuel line from the fuel tank to the engine bay?

Thank you everyone

 

[Djordje1]

Is there any chance to find any list related to my question?

• #142

@S3AMJ can you please do rough observations of what you have under the hood maybe?Just to share more info about that?Is that possible?

Thank you

 

[hydro s3]

Can you not return or sell on the master block ecu and then get a ignitron ecu?

 

[S3AMJ]

Is there any chance to find any list related to my question?

• #142

@S3AMJ can you please do rough observations of what you have under the hood maybe?Just to share more info about that?Is that possible?

Thank you

I don’t have any measurements to hand, however here are a couple pictures back when I was making the spacer and once it was mounted to my rocker cover and painted. My build thread also covers this in more detail I think.

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[Djordje1]

Can you not return or sell on the master block ecu and then get a ignitron ecu?

I would be more than happy to get map from badger5,but i really don't want to make any kind of pressure or begging for that.I really respect their decision.If they changed their politic about remote mapping for ECU master.Ill take it.Bill or someone who answered to me says that they are doing ECU master mapping as well,but not remotely.Just on the Dyno.

On the ECU I look as a list of numbers and commands for computer.I take ECU master,beachse is well know,realible and people really recommend.Also If I decide to sell,I'll much easier sell ECU master black,than Ignitron.


@S3AMJ

Oh man, than you so much for all this.This is also helpful,but ai thought about AN fitting for fueling and all that things.

I need the list of the thing to buy to redone,whole fuel line from the tank to the injectors and back.Im wondering is there any list I can find with all the necessary fittings.

That's the reason why I ask @ or you to shoot som pictures under the hood for me to take a look closer...


Cheers,
Djordje

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[S3AMJ]

I would be more than happy to get map from badger5,but i really don't want to make any kind of pressure or begging for that.I really respect their decision.If they changed their politic about remote mapping for ECU master.Ill take it.Bill or someone who answered to me says that they are doing ECU master mapping as well,but not remotely.Just on the Dyno.

On the ECU I look as a list of numbers and commands for computer.I take ECU master,beachse is well know,realible and people really recommend.Also If I decide to sell,I'll much easier sell ECU master black,than Ignitron.


@S3AMJ

Oh man, than you so much for all this.This is also helpful,but ai thought about AN fitting for fueling and all that things.

I need the list of the thing to buy to redone,whole fuel line from the tank to the injectors and back.Im wondering is there any list I can find with all the necessary fittings.

That's the reason why I ask @ or you to shoot som pictures under the hood for me to take a look closer...


Cheers,
Djordje

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I’ll have a look through my invoices over the next couple days for you bud and put a list together of what’s gone into my fuel setup


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[Djordje1]

I’ll have a look through my invoices over the next couple days for you bud and put a list together of what’s gone into my fuel setup


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That's amazing man.Thank you so much,that is very helpful.Its very hard to find any of these informanion.Cheers

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[<tuffty/>]

So my two pennenth worth of input here... apologies but its been a bit busy of late so not got around to formulating a reply...

So... your fuelling stuff... what to use is a little subjective as it really depends on what your plans are and what power levels you want to hit... in Ash's case a more intricate fuelling solution was required as the power level justified this...

I personally ran mostly OE fuel lines on my 20v at 620hp... in terms of flow capacity I suspect it was pretty much maxed out and if the 20v hadn't let go then I would have been looking at a swirl pot and -6AN lines to replace it all...

I am not about to give you a definitive list as each solution is different including Ash's so this is more a guideline.... instead of spanking out loads on fittings only to find you have more than you need or the wrong ones for the job you should look at it objectively as to what you need once you have the basics in place...

As you are only using a G25-550 then for the most part the stock fuel lines are fine... In my experience a new stock/OE intank and an 044 inline pump is enough "pump" for your power and will support 600+ hp... the complication with this setup seems to be that the 044 can be quite noisy in this configuration... this in my experience is hugely subjective... I am running the same 044 style pump I fitted many years ago with no noise issue but others cars I have worked on with the same setup have been very noisy... this is essentially fixed but using a swirl pot....

Planning your fuelling solution should begin with the start and end points... so... intank to swirl pot... swirl pot to inline... inline to fuel rail.... fuel feed and return line size starts at -6AN... this will be larger than OE... there is some discussion and a degree of justification to go -8AN for the fuel feed lines but this is more for really high power stuff tbh... the return can remain -6AN.

What fittings you need will depend on where you have fitted the swirl pot, the route you use to plumb the lines and what sort of angles you need to achieve... other things to consider will be fuel filter location, fuel pressure sensor if using one and if you plan remote FPR or a fuel rail with an OE FPR adaptor...

Assuming you go with a swirl pot you should start from there... this will be very much dependant on where you end up fitting the swirl pot... the favourite place (mainly due to there actually being room) is the spare wheel well... the main issue with this is that you will need to firewall it off in some way for safety and as its in the cabin use PTFE fuel line and fittings including ideally bulkhead fittings to allow the fuel line through the body to the outside... on an S3/quattro shell things are quite tight... on a FWD shell there are less things in the way but either way choose the swirl pot and location to fit it first then work the lines and fittings back from that... inline fuel pump and filter locations are next but again driven off where the swirl pot ends up... if in the wheel well then you can fit the pump and filter in there too.... bare in mind that a swirl pot will need a line in from the the intank, line out to the inline, line in from the return and line out to return to the tank...

The engine bay side is a bit more straight forward but again plan out where the kit you want to use goes and work back from there... if using a separate FPR the it will need attaching somewhere solidly and safe... then a case of making sure a line from the rear can get to it and a line to the rail is unimpeded... all fairly straight forward stuff... at this point you can work out what fittings you need... straight, 30deg, 45 deg, 90deg etc it becomes a game of working out how to best to join everything together

<tuffty/>

 

[Djordje1]

So my two pennenth worth of input here... apologies but its been a bit busy of late so not got around to formulating a reply...

So... your fuelling stuff... what to use is a little subjective as it really depends on what your plans are and what power levels you want to hit... in Ash's case a more intricate fuelling solution was required as the power level justified this...

I personally ran mostly OE fuel lines on my 20v at 620hp... in terms of flow capacity I suspect it was pretty much maxed out and if the 20v hadn't let go then I would have been looking at a swirl pot and -6AN lines to replace it all...

I am not about to give you a definitive list as each solution is different including Ash's so this is more a guideline.... instead of spanking out loads on fittings only to find you have more than you need or the wrong ones for the job you should look at it objectively as to what you need once you have the basics in place...

As you are only using a G25-550 then for the most part the stock fuel lines are fine... In my experience a new stock/OE intank and an 044 inline pump is enough "pump" for your power and will support 600+ hp... the complication with this setup seems to be that the 044 can be quite noisy in this configuration... this in my experience is hugely subjective... I am running the same 044 style pump I fitted many years ago with no noise issue but others cars I have worked on with the same setup have been very noisy... this is essentially fixed but using a swirl pot....

Planning your fuelling solution should begin with the start and end points... so... intank to swirl pot... swirl pot to inline... inline to fuel rail.... fuel feed and return line size starts at -6AN... this will be larger than OE... there is some discussion and a degree of justification to go -8AN for the fuel feed lines but this is more for really high power stuff tbh... the return can remain -6AN.

What fittings you need will depend on where you have fitted the swirl pot, the route you use to plumb the lines and what sort of angles you need to achieve... other things to consider will be fuel filter location, fuel pressure sensor if using one and if you plan remote FPR or a fuel rail with an OE FPR adaptor...

Assuming you go with a swirl pot you should start from there... this will be very much dependant on where you end up fitting the swirl pot... the favourite place (mainly due to there actually being room) is the spare wheel well... the main issue with this is that you will need to firewall it off in some way for safety and as its in the cabin use PTFE fuel line and fittings including ideally bulkhead fittings to allow the fuel line through the body to the outside... on an S3/quattro shell things are quite tight... on a FWD shell there are less things in the way but either way choose the swirl pot and location to fit it first then work the lines and fittings back from that... inline fuel pump and filter locations are next but again driven off where the swirl pot ends up... if in the wheel well then you can fit the pump and filter in there too.... bare in mind that a swirl pot will need a line in from the the intank, line out to the inline, line in from the return and line out to return to the tank...

The engine bay side is a bit more straight forward but again plan out where the kit you want to use goes and work back from there... if using a separate FPR the it will need attaching somewhere solidly and safe... then a case of making sure a line from the rear can get to it and a line to the rail is unimpeded... all fairly straight forward stuff... at this point you can work out what fittings you need... straight, 30deg, 45 deg, 90deg etc it becomes a game of working out how to best to join everything together

<tuffty/>

Oh Man, what a post
Thank you so much for your time, I really appreciate it. I'm really happy that this forum exists. My project will be really different without all of you guys.

Totally understandable it is subjective and I take some steps by myself before you wrote this one. I'm glad you confirm that the OE fuel line is enough for my build and that's good to know. I always wonder about in-tank pump 13amp fuses and stuff like that...Now I'm sure I don't need non of these

Based on my research and observation this is my situation...I guess ist the same on all the 1.8t engines

Related to what you suggest I have to do this...Please excuse me I'm a visual person. It's much easier to draw for me
If I understand right I have to keep my OEFuelFillter and then add Bosch 044 then in the engine bay before fuel rail I have to add inline fuel filter Bosch 0 450 905 021 or MANN Small one?

If I decide to go with the AN6 fuel line and replace the factory feed and return line just to get a bit more capacity.What would be the best way to attach AN fitting on the fuel pump?

For now, I'm not planning to go with swirl pot is this a problem or I can live without it? I just have to make sure I always have enough fuel?


My next concern is doing I need FPR? You all suggest 3.0bar bosch because I'm going with 1000cc injectors.My plan is to buy IE fuel rail and IE FPR housing.The question is it will system push the fuel to the 3bar?Do I really need external FPR?

Ok next one
On my list is IE intake manifold 80mm ,because SEM one is really hard to find I decide to go with this one.This intake doesent come with any holes for the sensors...
I founded somewere on the internet that people make a holes for the sensors.Do you suggest this and which sensors I need?
How this is look like to you and is it possition of the sensors good/correct?

Correct me if I'm wrong. This should be a MAP sensor and IAT sensor?
For the MAP sensor,I thought it would be good to make on on the intercooler piping just before the throttle body?

This picture is just to illustrate the position of the MAP sensor

If this is correct all I need to do it's just make holes for the IAT sensor on my IE Intake.

Here are a bunch of new questions, but you don't know how grateful I am for all your time and effort.

Thank you so much,
Djordje

 

[<tuffty/>]

Oh Man, what a post
Thank you so much for your time, I really appreciate it. I'm really happy that this forum exists. My project will be really different without all of you guys.

Totally understandable it is subjective and I take some steps by myself before you wrote this one. I'm glad you confirm that the OE fuel line is enough for my build and that's good to know. I always wonder about in-tank pump 13amp fuses and stuff like that...Now I'm sure I don't need non of these

You will need an inline pump and you will need to wire that off a separate relay/fuse but you can use the intank pump feed to trigger the relay

Based on my research and observation this is my situation...I guess ist the same on all the 1.8t engines
View attachment 253020

Pretty much

Related to what you suggest I have to do this...Please excuse me I'm a visual person. It's much easier to draw for me
If I understand right I have to keep my OEFuelFillter and then add Bosch 044 then in the engine bay before fuel rail I have to add inline fuel filter Bosch 0 450 905 021 or MANN Small one?

View attachment 253022

Not quite... you go intank to 044 then to the filter... if not using a swirl pot then typically the 044 gets fitted where the OE filter typically resides on A3/S3/Golf etc.... the filter than gets relocated into the engine bay

Depending on what you decide to do either of those filters will work but the small MANN one uses OE connectors whereas the Bosch uses banjo fittings...the Bosch is used for motorsport applications and a bit higher flowing than the OE style

If I decide to go with the AN6 fuel line and replace the factory feed and return line just to get a bit more capacity.What would be the best way to attach AN fitting on the fuel pump?

View attachment 253024

You use an adaptor like this one...

AN To Efi Hardline Thread On 90° Female Quick Fuel Connector | eBay

Our range of quick fit fuel connectors are designed to allow rapid conversion of OEM EFI fuel line connections and fuel rails to male AN connections. Fitting Type 90° Female Quick Fuel Connector. These fittings benefit from dual internal FKM/FPM O-rings ensuring the connection is leak free, even...

www.ebay.co.uk

For now, I'm not planning to go with swirl pot is this a problem or I can live without it? I just have to make sure I always have enough fuel?

You will always have enough fuel at the level you are aiming for... a swirl pot is a nice to have though for peace of mind/redundancy but not essential

My next concern is doing I need FPR? You all suggest 3.0bar bosch because I'm going with 1000cc injectors.My plan is to buy IE fuel rail and IE FPR housing.The question is it will system push the fuel to the 3bar?Do I really need external FPR?
View attachment 253025View attachment 253026

You don't "need" an external FPR... the OE 3bar is perfectly up to the job... the IE rail and FPR housing will work fine... I had the same on my 20v

Ok next one
On my list is IE intake manifold 80mm ,because SEM one is really hard to find I decide to go with this one.This intake doesent come with any holes for the sensors...
I founded somewere on the internet that people make a holes for the sensors.Do you suggest this and which sensors I need?
How this is look like to you and is it possition of the sensors good/correct?
View attachment 253027

Correct me if I'm wrong. This should be a MAP sensor and IAT sensor?
For the MAP sensor,I thought it would be good to make on on the intercooler piping just before the throttle body?

This picture is just to illustrate the position of the MAP sensor
View attachment 253030


If this is correct all I need to do it's just make holes for the IAT sensor on my IE Intake.

IE mani does come with the 'hole' for an IAT sensor but is right at the end of the plenum which is not an ideal place as it really needs to be similar to the OE position in the airflow just after the TB...

As for the MAP sensor it has to go into the plenum if you plan to run speed density (no MAF) other wise it won't see vacuum and the engine will run like a bag of p00p...

OE IAT sensor is fine... MAP sensor will need to be ideally a 4bar one as you will be running at least 1.8 bar boost on a g25 550 so that will give you atmospheric pressure (typically about 1bar) + 3bar over head... that would allow you to run 2bar boost without running off the end of the map sensor...

The factory MAP sensor is a 2.5bar one for reference so means it won't read above 1.5bar of boost

<tuffty/>

 

[Djordje1]

You will need an inline pump and you will need to wire that off a separate relay/fuse but you can use the intank pump feed to trigger the relay



Pretty much


Not quite... you go intank to 044 then to the filter... if not using a swirl pot then typically the 044 gets fitted where the OE filter typically resides on A3/S3/Golf etc.... the filter than gets relocated into the engine bay

Depending on what you decide to do either of those filters will work but the small MANN one uses OE connectors whereas the Bosch uses banjo fittings...the Bosch is used for motorsport applications and a bit higher flowing than the OE style


You use an adaptor like this one...

AN To Efi Hardline Thread On 90° Female Quick Fuel Connector | eBay

Our range of quick fit fuel connectors are designed to allow rapid conversion of OEM EFI fuel line connections and fuel rails to male AN connections. Fitting Type 90° Female Quick Fuel Connector. These fittings benefit from dual internal FKM/FPM O-rings ensuring the connection is leak free, even...

www.ebay.co.uk

You will always have enough fuel at the level you are aiming for... a swirl pot is a nice to have though for peace of mind/redundancy but not essential


You don't "need" an external FPR... the OE 3bar is perfectly up to the job... the IE rail and FPR housing will work fine... I had the same on my 20v


IE mani does come with the 'hole' for an IAT sensor but is right at the end of the plenum which is not an ideal place as it really needs to be similar to the OE position in the airflow just after the TB...

As for the MAP sensor it has to go into the plenum if you plan to run speed density (no MAF) other wise it won't see vacuum and the engine will run like a bag of p00p...

OE IAT sensor is fine... MAP sensor will need to be ideally a 4bar one as you will be running at least 1.8 bar boost on a g25 550 so that will give you atmospheric pressure (typically about 1bar) + 3bar over head... that would allow you to run 2bar boost without running off the end of the map sensor...

The factory MAP sensor is a 2.5bar one for reference so means it won't read above 1.5bar of boost

<tuffty/>

@<tuffty/>
thank you for your time man. This is very helpful and you literally save a lot of time telling me all of this.

I'll follow the wiring you mentioned for the Bosch 044,I also find that on your post related to s3. @desertstorm did something similar on his TT build.
I think I'll go with Bosch filter too.

Ok thank you, if understand correctly this one looks like good positions for both sensors based on everything you mentioned??? I'll close the hole that IE created for IAT

That's right I'll go without MAF and I'll use the MAP sensor. Do you recommend this one to go with? This should be Bosch 4bar Map sensor 0 281 006 059 one from the picture and for the IAT I also planning to go with Bosch 0 280 130 085.
Do you think this is a good way to go? If you have any other one or other part number, please share that one. Those once are the first that I found during my research.

I wanted to confirm something. I'm planning to order Setrab ProLine STD 910 Series 9 (50-910-7612) oil cooler that should be
405mm x 76mm 10 Row which should be 22 mm x 1.50 Female Inlet. Based on my measurements and the space I have on the beetle this is the only one I can fit. I'll also cut the front bumper to bring more air for the oil cooler. Something like this,

If I'm right from the oil cooler I have two lines and they are going to the oil cooler sandwich/flange...I founded this one. Looks decent IMO...

What do you think? Do I need a thermostat as well?

Oil cooler flange with thermostat Dash 8 BAR-TEK®

Milled from the solid, black anodized, with 80° thermostat. ✔ 15 years of motorsport experience ✔ fast shipping ✔ BAR-TEK® proved ➔ buy now

www.bar-tek-tuning.com

Here I can see that they are using Dash 8 do you recommend maybe Dash 10 or 12 for the Setrab oil cooler and sandwich as well? What hoses do you recommend for this?


Last one for today
My plan is to buy CSF-7025 Coolant radiator Mk4 Golf 1.8T VR6 R32 A3 S3 TT mk1 do you recommend something like this for the coolant line or something else. Do I need anything else for the coolant line or this should be enough?I saw that Mishimoto has 9 hoses options...Not sure to be honest

7 Pcs Silicone Coolant Hose Set For 1.8T A3/TT / Golf / Leon / Octavia

7 PIECE SILICONE COOLANT HOSE (H0148)

creationsmotorsport.com

Silicone Hose Kit, fits Volkswagen Golf 1.8T 1999-2005

Mishimoto Volkswagen Golf 1.8T radiator hoses are made from a combination of high-grade silicone and heat-resistant embedded fibers for a high-quality replacement kit for your OEM rubber hoses. Available in black, blue or red, Mishimoto silicone hoses retain OEM fitment while providing increased...

www.mishimoto.eu

Thank you so much,
Djordje

 

[Djordje1]

Before I made a new mistake I wanted to hear your opinion.

You generally all agree that Toyosport B is good intercooler for g25-550 and HP gain that I want achieve...but based on my situation,looks like half of intercoler will be covered.Yes I can move my licence plate somewhere else or make couple holes,but that will affect the look and I'm not sure I'll use 100% of possibilites.

I found threadstone TR8L rated to 575hp,which is more than enouhg and as you can see on the pictures...It will fit much better than toyo one.I'll also add a bit of angle,which will help covering whole surface of the intercooler and I guess it will be more efficient than toyo one,mostly because of that.Also @<tuffty/> suggested 63 pipes for the intercooler,which is already there...On the toyo they are 76 which is to big for my application...

I will redesing my bumper hower,to get more air...I'll remove foglights old intercooler,plastic and all that crap...but in general do you guys think is threadstone better solution than toyo sport b one?


Thank you su much

 

[Djordje1]

Hey everyone, I hope you are doing well. I started ordering parts and most of the parts are on the way...

Pro-Race Engineering 06A 1.8t Baffled and Reinforced Sump Pan
WAVETRAC DIFFERENTIAL FOR 02M 6MT 2WD 10.309.190WK
Plex uSDM-102 Micro Display & Logger
1.8T & S4 2.7T Hemi Upgrade throttle body 80mm
Oil cooler flange with thermostat Dash 8 BAR-TEK®
Mac Valve 3 Port Boost Control
Tyrbosmart Boost gauge 0-2 Bar 52mm
3 x V-BAND FMIC PRO 76mm (3") KIT
Some Silicone Hoses..
Ignition Coilpacks NGK 4010326480420


Guys, do you have any thoughts about #154 and #155(previous posts)? @<tuffty/> what do you think?

• #154
• #155

Thank you everyone!

 

[Djordje1]

Please correct me if I'm wrong. As you know I go with Turbosmart HyperGate 45m GenV I hot three springs green yellow and orange.

Based on the list I found on the internet that should be 3psi/0.2BAR , 5psi/0.34BAR , 7psi/0.48BAR which one do you suggest to go with?

 

[desertstorm]

I used a Treadstone TR1035 on my build and you are right about the obstruction in the top half of the intercooler. The TR1035 has bottom entries like most intercoolers but has internal deflector baffles which take half of the intake flow and routes it through the top half of the intercooler. I only get the best cooling when I remove my number plate as I have holes that allows air to go through the bumper bar to the intercooler.
There are 3 TR8 intercoolers TR8, TR8C and TR8L , The TR8L you have picked is designed for lower boost applications where there is more flow.
"This is the intercooler that we now give in the Turbonetics 350z and G35 Turbonetics turbo kits. Core length is 51mm longer at 2102mm. More suited for the V6 applications, were boost pressure is kept low, with higher flow rates."
This won't cool as well in a higher boost application such as what you will be doing. On a V6 typically you will be boosting to 1-1.2 bar max. So the intercooler is designed to have a more free flowing core to allow large volumes of what would be cooler air. If you could use the centre entry TR8C that would probably be better but this has 75mm entry and exits.
I bought my intercooler from Turbozentrum they were the cheapest I could find for Treadstone intercoolers.
The TR8 intercoolers are smaller in volume than a Toyo type B so I would of thought performance would be similar. Here's a link to a guy testing intercoolers for a Golf R and measures pressure loss on a TR8L and TR8C. The 8C came out a lot better on pressure loss.

Treadstone TR8C Flow Test 2 | My Golf Mk7 GTI

After a previous flow test with the Treadstone TR8C where the intercooler was connected to the flow bench without a reducing coupler, which will be used on

mygolfmk7.com

Treadstone TR8C Intercooler First Look | My Golf Mk7 GTI

Treadstone TR8C Intercooler is a candidate to use as part of a bicooler setup. This is a first look and flow test of the intercooler.

mygolfmk7.com

 

[desertstorm]

On other things you have mentioned I use a Mocal thermostatic spacer 80 degrees on the oil cooler. If using the car on the road you really need to go for a thermostatic spacer as it slows warm up a lot and oil temp really needs to hit 80 degrees to remove water vapour and trapped combustion by products. As for the springs on the wastegate you can use the green spring with a yellow or orange in the centre to give you a 10 or 12 pound rating. Personally I would go with a green and yellow giving you around 12lB actuator only pressure so around 0.8bar.
I use a CSF 7025 rad, I use all the original hoses on the car. They seem to work fine.

 

[Djordje1]

I used a Treadstone TR1035 on my build and you are right about the obstruction in the top half of the intercooler. The TR1035 has bottom entries like most intercoolers but has internal deflector baffles which take half of the intake flow and routes it through the top half of the intercooler. I only get the best cooling when I remove my number plate as I have holes that allows air to go through the bumper bar to the intercooler.
There are 3 TR8 intercoolers TR8, TR8C and TR8L , The TR8L you have picked is designed for lower boost applications where there is more flow.
"This is the intercooler that we now give in the Turbonetics 350z and G35 Turbonetics turbo kits. Core length is 51mm longer at 2102mm. More suited for the V6 applications, were boost pressure is kept low, with higher flow rates."
This won't cool as well in a higher boost application such as what you will be doing. On a V6 typically you will be boosting to 1-1.2 bar max. So the intercooler is designed to have a more free flowing core to allow large volumes of what would be cooler air. If you could use the centre entry TR8C that would probably be better but this has 75mm entry and exits.
I bought my intercooler from Turbozentrum they were the cheapest I could find for Treadstone intercoolers.
The TR8 intercoolers are smaller in volume than a Toyo type B so I would of thought performance would be similar. Here's a link to a guy testing intercoolers for a Golf R and measures pressure loss on a TR8L and TR8C. The 8C came out a lot better on pressure loss.

Treadstone TR8C Flow Test 2 | My Golf Mk7 GTI

After a previous flow test with the Treadstone TR8C where the intercooler was connected to the flow bench without a reducing coupler, which will be used on

mygolfmk7.com

Treadstone TR8C Intercooler First Look | My Golf Mk7 GTI

Treadstone TR8C Intercooler is a candidate to use as part of a bicooler setup. This is a first look and flow test of the intercooler.

mygolfmk7.com

@desertstorm

Thank you so much for all this useful information. I'll definitely read more stuff on the blog that you shared with me. I contacted the tread stone factory and they told me that TR8L should be good enough for my application. I mentioned I want to go max 1.9bar and I need it for around 520hp. My main consideration now is it TR8C is able to deal with all the HP I'm planning to use.IT's rated at 500HP. The main reason why I choose TR8L is size and HP threshold.

I have to check with them can they prove that tr8c can hold the amount of power I need. Toyo Sport B is too big and as I mentioned I will not be able to use 100% of it...TR1035 as well, similar shape. I would really try to keep my bumper with holes if it's possible. I'm doing a custom front bumper with a bigger girll and removing fog lights which will definitely help and use 100% of the intercooler surface.

Definitely, performance takes advantage and TR8C looks like a better one on pressure loss. Also, the inlet and outlet are bigger, for the rest of piping I'll go with 63mm as @<tuffty/> suggested for my application, but however main entrance is definitely bigger which is an advantage I guess. It's great because I didn't order anything yet Yes!Turbozentrum has really good prices and both of them are available

On other things you have mentioned I use a Mocal thermostatic spacer 80 degrees on the oil cooler. If using the car on the road you really need to go for a thermostatic spacer as it slows warm up a lot and oil temp really needs to hit 80 degrees to remove water vapour and trapped combustion by products. As for the springs on the wastegate you can use the green spring with a yellow or orange in the centre to give you a 10 or 12 pound rating. Personally I would go with a green and yellow giving you around 12lB actuator only pressure so around 0.8bar.
I use a CSF 7025 rad, I use all the original hoses on the car. They seem to work fine.

Oh man, this is great! Thanks!!!! I'll go with something like that green and yellow sound good. I didn't know I can mix them. I'm not sure what is currently inside. Probably the blue one, which is not bad as well at all... I'm planning to have two maps... first one is on about 1.5 and the second one stronger one 1.8 or 1.9 we will see what will give the better results...

Related to the oil cooler I already order an oil cooler flange with 80c thermostat from bartek https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/oil-cooler-flange-thermostat-bar-tek . Looks like a good one with everything I need. Just wondering is dash 8 enough? As I mentioned I'll take Setrab ProLine STD 910 Series 9 (50-910-7612) oil cooler. I guess I need a bigger than AN8 fitting to connect them.

Thank you once again for your answer