What Induction To Go For!

Dani_B19

Dani_B19

Audi-sports own special child.
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Ok it's sunday afternoon and im bored and so been doing some thinking, i know it's pretty pointless buying any form of induction for a standard/re-mapped s3, i know the standard panel filter is good for 320bhp and the box for 350bhp (being reading old test threads etc) but what induction do people use when reaching the 320 onwards mark.
I know i wont be reaching these figures till well into next year now when i go down the hybrid, 3" DP etc (job, decideing todo suspension and brakes first) but when i do what type of induction would be best .
Or will the old faithful green cotton panel filter and 3/4" cold feed do?:)
 
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Well here's the set up i am possibly considering:
Jabbasport heat shield set up, have talked to them about the fitting to see if it actualy seals off the engine bay and they said yes, it forms a tight seal around the cone area plus there would be a direct cold feed from the front bumper:
http://www.jabbasport.com/store/index.php?app=gbu0&ns=prodshow&ref=JSIKLEONFBW
But i was thinking about replacing the cone with this one from k&n, slightly bigger than the jabba filter:
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RX-3990-1
And then lastly a larger maf housing:
http://www.modshack.info/bamm.htm.

So what you guys think, would it be a good set up or just pointless!
 
I've never been convinced by the heat shield approach, because you're basically trying to seal against the sound proofing material attached to the underside of the bonet - interestingly the filters being used by those using the "MOFO" are a cone filter encased in a heat resistant tube with 2 cold air feeds attached - which I would have thought a better approach.

The MOFO looks like a lovely bit of kit, but I couldn't vouch for "the science" regarding the method for increased fueling with my limited knowledge - but it sounds reasonable. But surely the same 11% increase in air would be achieved by removing the grid in the standard MAF housing - without the need to "trick" anything?

But test results count (AITs and Dynos) - and they all seem positive - I'll be looking into this more, as it seems to warrant further investigation :readit:

Nice find
 
Bear in mind if you add a cone filter directly onto the maf you will introduce some turbulence. Generally this will lose you anywhere between 10-20g/s. Whether this is noticable to the average butt dyno, who knows.
You'd want to add maybe 10cm of pipe before the maf and/or a velocity stack for a venturi effect to straighten the air. Look at the standard air box lid. Notice the curvature of the inlet.

The best thing seems to be shaving the castings from the top of the airbox. This will give you some extra g/s.

But if you are bored, I suggest getting in the car and driving it.
 
Yeah already smoothed out the airbox and de-meshed the maf.
I not saying im doing all this im just wanting to know what would be recomened when reaching the 330bhp mark onwards.
 
HTC said:
Bear in mind if you add a cone filter directly onto the maf you will introduce some turbulence..........
Click to expand...

The MOFO have "low turbulance" slots apparently, plus the bodys' look a little longer - hence why you cannot use them with a standard air box - so I would assume that the air flow is all straightened out by then?

I can understand the reasoning behind removing the MAF mesh and adding cold air feeds to the bottom of the existing air box, but I'm not sure if you should smooth the air box though - I've always believed that the veins were there to remove turbulance - a point actually mentioned on the modshack website?
 
Ive got a Neuspeed P-Flow and its a nice piece of kit, Pulls better at higher revs, Looks tidy in the engine bay and sounds 10 times more beefy!
 
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That is apoint hodge, i remeber seeing a flow chart on a website referring to the mofo and ttda and it showed that the neuspeed had the highest grams per air or whatever it is, im sure on the chart it was 224, isnt the neuspeed just a cone filter at the end of day, but HTC says their no good!
 
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Cone with a heatshield but i like it. People told me not to buy it but i didnt care what they had to say :) At the end of the day its my car i do what the f*** i want to it. Great piece of kit, Theres also the EVOMS version but it more pricey and does the same job.
I noticed a louder DV chatter after instaling the neuspeed also. Same again some people like and some dont but its opinion at the end of the day.
If you got the money go for it :)
 
Dont most BT run cone filters and large mafs or maf housings?
 
Thing is not to confuse a heat shield like the one shown from Jabba in the link above and a twin tube heat shield like the ones from modshack etc - where the shield runs continuously around the cone isolating it from the engine bay.

I like the twin tube versions, I'm just not convinced the other type will really stop hot air being drawn in - it would be interesting to see before & after logs of air intake temps.

But your right, it's your own car and money which you're free to do what you want with and if everyone done the exact same thing, then what a boring world it would be!! ;)
 
Don't worry about heat sheilds etc. The air gets squished within and inch of it's life in the turbo producing heat anyway. It's more important for NA engines.

Any inlet should have a velocity stack to smooth the flow. A simple curve on the edge is not enough.
Larger mafs are run because the voltage with max out at certain air flows. Adding the larger area reduces the voltage when pulling more air with a BT, though a S3/TT maf housing is adequate for 400+ bhp.
 
IIIadidasboy said:
Thing is not to confuse a heat shield like the one shown from Jabba in the link above and a twin tube heat shield like the ones from modshack etc - where the shield runs continuously around the cone isolating it from the engine bay.

I like the twin tube versions, I'm just not convinced the other type will really stop hot air being drawn in - it would be interesting to see before & after logs of air intake temps.

But your right, it's your own car and money which you're free to do what you want with and if everyone done the exact same thing, then what a boring world it would be!! ;)
Click to expand...

Or i know that mate, i was never under the impression the jabba set up would prevent heat around the filter.
The induction kit that modshack produce arnt all what you think they are mate, if you do some more looking youll find a thread where a few of the tt boys removed the sheilds round the vtda and ttda and reported the car felt better and pulled better, in the end they said the modshack set ups are just glorified k&n filters and said they couldnt believe they spent that much.
 
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So a velocity stack, would that be say a straight silicone connector between the maf and filter?
 
It's a radiused curve used to speed up and straighten air into a pipe. A long pipe won't need one. A short pipe would. Google inlet manifold designs and throttle bodies for the science.

Just to add. On a turbo engine the intercooler does the inlet cooling so that's why heat shields aren't so important.
 
I've got a Modshack TTDA. Mine is one of the original ones which is looking a little tired now, but the new ones are same design but are made from composite materials instead. Its never let me down yet.
 
Here is the newer one on my bros A3

normal_DSC_0616-1024.jpg
 
Yeah i know that HTC.
So which would you recommend then rich?
I was only just saying what i found on an american tt owners forum.
 
In reality, generally the modshack is no different to a "BMC" CDA type - except the BMC is European, available off-the-shelf and cheaper, although I'm sure there are other manufacturers out there doing a similar product, not just these two.

The modshack one however, looks alot bigger (has room now for 2 CAIs) and can be personalized (if that matters to you). I suppose the way forward is to obtain (from independant / reliable sources) air volume and air temp readings from all of the different types and compare.

[off topic] Rich, where'd your bro get that CF engine cover from?
 
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