having issues with interiour light

fatal8446

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fitted new central locking module today and its all working as advertised except that the internal light doesn't turn off when the engine starts and the only way to turn it off is to lock/alarm the car or flick it to the middle position

any thoughts as to why its staying on??
 
may be a setting on VAG.com? not sure tbh
 
it must be wired up incorrectly to be doing that.

I'll try to find the wiring diagram i used and give you the details.
 
have you replaced pump? (you say advertised, ebay?) carefully remove back and check circuit board for damp or carbon dust that can cause shorts
 
na its locking and unlocking and doing power windows all the good stuff just not extinguishing the light when the engine is started
 
ok what i'd do is disconnect everything and only connect the basics in.

Theres two different schemes, one has a 12pin white plug, and a 6 pin black/violet plug, the other has 3 plugs wiht a lot more pins. These plans are for the 12/6 version. If you've got the other one i can give you those too



Connect the RED from the unit to the red/blue at the CL pump (black/violet plug)
Connect the BLACK, Yellow, and Yellow/Black cables from the unit the the Brown wire in the black/violet plug

Connect the white/black line from the unit, to the grey/white wire on the 12 pin plug
Connect the white from the unit to the brown/grey on the 12 pin plug.

Thats all you need to get it working, so test that out first and check it all works as it should before going any further.
 
one has a 12pin white plug, and a 6 pin black/violet plug, the other has 3 plugs wiht a lot more pins. These plans are for the 12/6 version. If you've got the other one i can give you those too.


i have the three plugs on the pump
 
ok, the wires are the same but they're on different plugs.


Connect the RED from the unit to the red/blue at the CL pump (10 pin black/violet plug)
Connect the BLACK, Yellow, and Yellow/Black cables from the unit the the Brown wire in the 10 pin black/violet plug

Connect the white/black line from the unit, to the grey/white wire on the 16 pin yellow plug
Connect the white from the unit to the brown/grey on the 12 pin black plug.
 
my 99 1.6 does exactly the same thing but only when it wants to! highly annoying! my central locking works using the key but won't lock using the remote. still does the total closure off the windows etc... though.
 
I am going to give this a go at the weekend and see what happens. Nice one aragorn
 
right got the diaagrams from the company and wired it up how they said but the light stays on when ur in the car. whan you lock the car it goes out any ideas anyone?
 
Did you do that it sais in there instructions and cut a wire as well?
 
It also has written about changing jumper settings and i have no information on to what!
 
ok, the wires are the same but they're on different plugs.


Connect the RED from the unit to the red/blue at the CL pump (10 pin black/violet plug)
Connect the BLACK, Yellow, and Yellow/Black cables from the unit the the Brown wire in the 10 pin black/violet plug

Connect the white/black line from the unit, to the grey/white wire on the 16 pin yellow plug
Connect the white from the unit to the brown/grey on the 12 pin black plug.

I just wired my rclick up using this method and nothing happens when using the fob, i also noticed that i dont have a grey bron whire on the 10 pin only a grey yellow wire. Im **** with car electrics.
 
someone else (gruf?) had the same issue with the missing grey/brown. he used another wire but i'm not sure the one he chose was the right chap although it did work.

IIRC the brown/grey your missing is the lock wire, and thats probably why its not doing anything.

I'll try an get onto elsawin tomorrow and look up the wiring diagram for your model.

Can you confirm the year, and how many plugs the CL pump has for me please?

Ta.
 
fitted new central locking module today and its all working as advertised except that the internal light doesn't turn off when the engine starts and the only way to turn it off is to lock/alarm the car or flick it to the middle position

any thoughts as to why its staying on??

no thoughts of why its staying on but thoughts on how to turn it off.
TAKE THE BULB OUT
 
someone else (gruf?) had the same issue with the missing grey/brown. he used another wire but i'm not sure the one he chose was the right chap although it did work.

IIRC the brown/grey your missing is the lock wire, and thats probably why its not doing anything.

I'll try an get onto elsawin tomorrow and look up the wiring diagram for your model.

Can you confirm the year, and how many plugs the CL pump has for me please?

Ta.

It has three connectors 9 pin purple\black 16 browny and 8 black thanks for you help that would be great.
 
he used a red/brown iirc, but the diagram i had said that was for total closure.

I'll check elsawin in a bit.
 
Right i can see where the confusion occurs now.

On the wiring diagram for the 1997 model year cars

At the DOOR, unlock is grey-white and lock is brown/grey
However once it joins the car loom in the A pillar unlock stays as grey-white, and lock becomes red/brown.

The confusion was that red/brown is also the signal that gets sent to the electric window control module to close all the windows.

It turns out there are TWO red/brown wires in the harness. One on plug "A" at position 10, which does the locking, and another on connector "C" pos 15 which does the window closure.

As a guide, connector "C" is the one which contains the UNLOCK wire (grey-white), so the red/brown on that plug is for window rollup.
 
Right i can see where the confusion occurs now.

On the wiring diagram for the 1997 model year cars

At the DOOR, unlock is grey-white and lock is brown/grey
However once it joins the car loom in the A pillar unlock stays as grey-white, and lock becomes red/brown.

The confusion was that red/brown is also the signal that gets sent to the electric window control module to close all the windows.

It turns out there are TWO red/brown wires in the harness. One on plug "A" at position 10, which does the locking, and another on connector "C" pos 15 which does the window closure.


As a guide, connector "C" is the one which contains the UNLOCK wire (grey-white), so the red/brown on that plug is for window rollup.

aragorn mate,
could you tell me the correct wiring for mine, 1996 2.6 auto. as we just hit or miss on the last 2 wires, my central locking works but my full closer dont work.
Cheers mate
 
Ok ill have a look and see if i can find the grey white. Would not having this wire connected mean that nothing will work as if not then there is something else a miss.

Thanks
 
the grey white in the loom should already be connected to the white black wire from the rclick?

You want to connect the solid white wire, to the red/brown thats on a different plug to the grey/white, as the red/brown thats on the same plug is for the total closure.

Gruf: As above, you should have two red/browns. Have a look on the plug that the white/black wire from the rclick goes to, to see if theres another red/brown on there, and if so, thats your total closure wire.
 
Just a thought is any one taking pics :photo: of what to look for and where they are for peps who really dont know much on electrics like me :think: if not can some one do it and post them cheers
 
Connected it up as you said above and nothing, beginning to think my unit is dead.

I have connected the
Black and both yellows to the thick brown on black\purple bluc
Red to the thick red\blue on the black\purple plug
White\black to the grey white on the browny yellow plug
White to the red\brown on the smaller black plug

Its either me or the unit possibly me as im ***** with electrics may have to call out a decent car elctrician person which is **** as i might as well bought something better at their prices and had it fitted.
 
Markey,
did you cut your transponder out yet.
i gave up on the single key idea, after 20-30 turns of the right click key, i noticed it getting loose in the shaft that connects to the block, also i could never get the transponder to work inside the right click.
what i ended up doing was to buy another right click that had the smallest fob i could find and swap over the control modules that i wired into the boot so i didn't have to do anymore wiring.
it worked the same but without the flip key.
now i got to write down the wiring thats been put into your thread to see if i can get the full closer to work.
 
markey: if you want to do some diagnostics try this:

Take a length of wire, and connect it to the white on the loom for the rclick (unplug the rclick and just poke the wire into the connector or something) then touch the other end against earth (the black wire in the loom) the car should lock. Repeat this but touch it between earth and the white/black and it should unlock. If it doesnt then theres something up with the wiring, either bad connections or the wrong wires.

If it does, then get a multimeter or test lamp and ensure your getting a voltage across the red and black, and check there is continuity between the brown and the two yellow wires. If all of that checks out i can only assume the rclick is dead.
 
Markey,
did you cut your transponder out yet.
i gave up on the single key idea, after 20-30 turns of the right click key, i noticed it getting loose in the shaft that connects to the block, also i could never get the transponder to work inside the right click.
what i ended up doing was to buy another right click that had the smallest fob i could find and swap over the control modules that i wired into the boot so i didn't have to do anymore wiring.
it worked the same but without the flip key.
now i got to write down the wiring thats been put into your thread to see if i can get the full closer to work.


I have a spare propper audi key so i will probably gut it and try and fit the bits inside it if the rclick keys are no cop.
 
Markey,
did you cut your transponder out yet.
i gave up on the single key idea, after 20-30 turns of the right click key, i noticed it getting loose in the shaft that connects to the block, also i could never get the transponder to work inside the right click.
what i ended up doing was to buy another right click that had the smallest fob i could find and swap over the control modules that i wired into the boot so i didn't have to do anymore wiring.
it worked the same but without the flip key.
now i got to write down the wiring thats been put into your thread to see if i can get the full closer to work.

Ill give it a bash might just give up on the idea and git a clifford installed so much easier and i dont have to do anything.
 
Any one know how to wire in the indicators. Also I don't have another red/brown on the same plug as grey/White only red/gray red/blue and green/red :) cheers

Aragorn thanks so much it's now working as it should just want to get indicators working now. I owe u beer.
 
did you get the full closer working
 
I'm not sure what wire I need for full closure as I don't have the colour that aragorn said in the loom
 
I'll have another look over the diagrams, perhaps its just not there.

For the indicators i just connected it to the rear light cluster. Cant remember the colors though. I'll try n dig them out later.
 
Ok weird thing is the lights flash when you lock, just not when you open it does not bother me really i only want to know if its locked when im walking away from the car.

Thanks that would be wicked if you can find the full closure wire ill have a play with the indicators as its only two wires.

Also what distance does your fobs work from?
 
Ive had mine working from a good 50 or more meters.
but i don't have the remote with the flip key i have a different right click.
 
Just checked back into this post so I will have a look which wire I used. My windows roll up as soon as I pull the key from the ignition, is that normal or have I got a car with funkie electrics? ;(