N249 Valve?

[S3 Chris]

Hi everyone,
Just had the S3 on Vagcom to turn the engine management light off.
(comes on every few hundred miles, believe this is caused by too many spikes in power due to remap and the ECU getting grumpy about it, so ECU reverts to the backup map and turns the engine management light on).
Anyways I've got 8 codes altogether no:eeeek) but I'm concentrating on 2 in particular for the time being as they both mention the N249 valve.

The codes are
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17705
17705 Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17608/P1200/004608
17608 Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction

Its been suggested that I get a system pressure check to see whats going on which I think sounds like a plan. Also just to let you know the S3 has an Apexi AVCR hooked up to it, and I've been told this may be causing problems too.

Has anyone else had these codes or similar issues with the N249 valve or Apexi AVCR unit? If so what did it take to get things sorted?

Cheers,
Chris

 

[jesters3]

I've had the 17705 and this came down to a split oil breather hose - once I replaced the hose the DTC went, also saw that in the old hoses they werefull of crud and sediment build-up that may have caused the lumpiness at idle.

The N249 is the black box on top, if it is a mechancal error then this would be a possible fecked N249; to bypass this check out http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42406 however I'm not sure if it's been done to a S3.

Part Code for a BAM engine is 078 906 283N (£46+VAT), IIRC SteveS3 changed his and cured the 17608 code - check out http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=52704

 

[S3Steve]

Yes mate i changed my N249 and it cleared the 17608 fault. As for the 17705 fault, I believe this can be caused by a number of things. most common is a split in one of the vacuum hoses or a broken dump valve(particularly if you are still running the standard plastic bosch item with a high pressure map).

 

[markyp2002]

Part Code for a BAM engine is 078 906 283N (£46+VAT), IIRC SteveS3 changed his and cured the 17608 code - check out http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=52704

Hi fellas, i quited that part number at Audi Streetly today and they could find it on ETKA o.o

Not a good start, im getting the same fault code on my TT, nothing to spanner about i guess but needs to be changed nonetheless.

New DV and new N249 and all shall be good again.....

Can anyone shed some light on where the N249 is? a picture would be fantastic? and what the proper OE number is?

 

[jesters3]

Hi fellas, i quited that part number at Audi Streetly today and they could find it on ETKA o.o

Not a good start, im getting the same fault code on my TT, nothing to spanner about i guess but needs to be changed nonetheless.

New DV and new N249 and all shall be good again.....

Can anyone shed some light on where the N249 is? a picture would be fantastic? and what the proper OE number is?

Sorry should have been 028 906 283N; it is located on top of the block over Coilpacks 3 and 4 see the seatcupra.net link for a pic on it.

 

[S3 Chris]

big thanks for all your info guys. got a few things to look into now as potential causes:
split oil breather hoses split vaccuum hoses T piece that connects 3 pipes on top of the engine Spark Plugs - laser platinum tri spark??
N249 Valve replacement
plenty to keep me busy. also been suggested that I take the AVCR out and go back to an N75J valve so may give star a call and see if they will undo that job for me. what do you think?

 

[markyp2002]

Also look into the DV, because the small hose on top of the DV connects to the N249 valve, found this to be my problem.... changed the DV yesterday for a 710N and now all is well.

I have noticed i am still getting a "whistling" sound coming from the airbox, almost like a dump but not quite. Anyone know why this may be?

 

[ChriS3]

Hi everyone,
Just had the S3 on Vagcom to turn the engine management light off.
(comes on every few hundred miles, believe this is caused by too many spikes in power due to remap and the ECU getting grumpy about it, so ECU reverts to the backup map and turns the engine management light on).
Anyways I've got 8 codes altogether no:eeeek) but I'm concentrating on 2 in particular for the time being as they both mention the N249 valve.

The codes are
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17705
17705 Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17608/P1200/004608
17608 Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction

Its been suggested that I get a system pressure check to see whats going on which I think sounds like a plan. Also just to let you know the S3 has an Apexi AVCR hooked up to it, and I've been told this may be causing problems too.

Has anyone else had these codes or similar issues with the N249 valve or Apexi AVCR unit? If so what did it take to get things sorted?

Cheers,
Chris

Morning Chris,

The N249 valve was replaced in November, and after asking around it seems that the code can brought up by a few other things. It lets the ECU control the DV, and lets the car dump boost when its needs to so its kind of a safety back up too. Not entirely needed though. You can just connect the vacuum pipe from the top of the DV to line that gets cylinder vacuum and it'll operate just like any normal turbo car.

By the way, where is teh DV located these days? I had a relocator kit that put it up at the front of the engine bay. The guys at Star didn't like it too much and suggested it could be a problem. They also said it could be a boost leak, hence the compression check to see if that's it. It also ties in with what Jester is saying about a possible split hose.

Do you know what boost you're getting and what sort of duty cylce?

 

[S3 Chris]

Afternoon All,
Well at least I can rule out the N249 valve needing replaced if its not long been done, sweet. one down , how many to go?!

By the way, where is teh DV located these days? I had a relocator kit that put it up at the front of the engine bay. The guys at Star didn't like it too much and suggested it could be a problem. They also said it could be a boost leak, hence the compression check to see if that's it. It also ties in with what Jester is saying about a possible split hose.

To be honest I've no idea, I'll have to have a look. But I can only presume it's still in exactly the same place as when you sold the car. I presume it was relocated to the front of the engine bay for a specific reason? What were the alternatives at the time?

Do you know what boost you're getting and what sort of duty cylce?

Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee. Did you hear that? that was the sound of what you just said going way over my tattie head!!
It's boosting to about a maximum of 1.55psi give or take +/- 0.05, but I've no idea what a duty cycle is never mind how to go about finding out what sort the car currently has. Doh. How would one go about such an enterprise?

Cheers,

 

[ChriS3]

I might have to show you rather than trying to tell you on a forum, but basically if you push the bottom two buttons on the AVC-R it should take you into the settings (or you can keep pressing the back button till you get there). You can adjust the boost and duty cycle, so you can have a bigger torque spike or more boost top end, or less, etc.

As you go into the duty cycle settings, it should say **%. Pressing the up or down arrow will show its current level.

 

[S3 Chris]

Sounds straight forward enough, I'll have a bash on my way home

 

[S3 Chris]

I might have to show you rather than trying to tell you on a forum, but basically if you push the bottom two buttons on the AVC-R it should take you into the settings (or you can keep pressing the back button till you get there). You can adjust the boost and duty cycle, so you can have a bigger torque spike or more boost top end, or less, etc.

As you go into the duty cycle settings, it should say **%. Pressing the up or down arrow will show its current level.

Its on Setting B, which is 1.55 Bar Boost and 65% Duty Cycle.
Does that sound about right?

 

[ChriS3]

Sounds like its just where it should be. Just for a bit of fun, try putting the duty cycle up to 70% - not a good idea to run it for long there but it gives you an idea of what it can do.

 

[S3 Chris]

Interesting, I might just have to give that a go you know

Going to get the car booked in for a system pressure test to check for any leaks as you've suggested Chris. But being that I'm not very technical, could someone please explain exactly what I should be asking for when I ring them up - Dont want to sound like a complete numptie if possible (although sadly thats what i am ).

Cheers

 

[markyp2002]

Tell them you think you have a boost leak somewhere, and want the system pressure tested just to check!

 

[S3 Chris]

Ah all sounds so simple!
Cheers markyp.
Any idea how much I should be looking at paying so as to ensure my absolute idiom is not taken advantage of?!

 

[markyp2002]

I wouldnt imagine a lot just to check if you have a boost loss! Max £50 for the time taken, anymore than that and they are robbing u!