H&R ARBs fitting

abdus

abdus

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Bought an H&R ARBS kit and am going to fit them this weekend...

any other parts I need to change while I'm at it?

Thanks
 
audi upgrades
Front on the A3 should be fairly similar (if not the same), rear will be different but is easy enough. I did just the rear bar on my old A3, but didn't do the front.
 
abdus said:
Bought an H&R ARBS kit and am going to fit them this weekend...

any other parts I need to change while I'm at it?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Let us know how you get on mate, I looked at changing my front one last week I got it unbolted but I couldn't work out how to remove it without dropping the subframe and didn't fancy that on the drive :notme:
 
You need to drop the subframe to swap them over. The guy in the link above looks like he did it on a drive. Definatley did it without ramps.
 
OK, will try and get some pics when I'm doing it..

I will start with the rear first
 
Rear is EASY, should take 30 mins including jacking it up etc.

Front is quite a bit harder, I did mine on axle stands and it took maybe 3-4 hours total.
 
so front is the harder job...

Thanks for all the replies..

As above, what new parts will I need?
 
As mentioned, do the rear first. Your car will handle great with it even if you don't have time for the front.

Front isn't too bad when you get into it. Undo :

ARB ends and bolts that hold the steering rack to the subframe. Dog bone mount to gearbox. Then the four main bolts that hold the subframe to the chassis. I recommend purchasing a black impact socket. They have stress relievers on the flats and take more torque. I broke to normal sockets re tightening to the correct torque on mine. They are cheap from a motor factor.
You don't need to undo the ball ball joints and you can let the subframe hang enough to get at the ARB. You might need to lever the rack of the subframe a little, but they aren't that tight.
If its a bit cramped, then remove the last few bolts and drop the subframe out leaving the rack in place.

I've probably forgotten something. I'm sure others will step in if so.
 
HTC said:
As mentioned, do the rear first. Your car will handle great with it even if you don't have time for the front.

Front isn't too bad when you get into it. Undo :

ARB ends and bolts that hold the steering rack to the subframe. Dog bone mount to gearbox. Then the four main bolts that hold the subframe to the chassis. I recommend purchasing a black impact socket. They have stress relievers on the flats and take more torque. I broke to normal sockets re tightening to the correct torque on mine. They are cheap from a motor factor.
You don't need to undo the ball ball joints and you can let the subframe hang enough to get at the ARB. You might need to lever the rack of the subframe a little, but they aren't that tight.
If its a bit cramped, then remove the last few bolts and drop the subframe out leaving the rack in place.

I've probably forgotten something. I'm sure others will step in if so.
Click to expand...

HTC is there anything you dont know how to do????:uhm:
 
for the rear, I've got only the ARB...no other fitting with it...

Do I need anything else? Where does it bolt to?

Please post some pics of the rear ARB fitted.

Thanks
 
Don't do what I did when I did the front on my Leon and do it in the garage...................unless you've got an extra wide garage!:whistle2:
 
Thanks HTC, mine is different, it's the 22m rear....lt's a different shape as the 28mm and I have no fitting kit with the bars I bought.(I got only the bars)

looks like I'll need endlinks and clamps...
 
If your's is an adjustable bar (more than one set of holes) then it'll need the endlink. If not, then it'll probably just bolt to the shock, so just a longer bolt required.

You will definately need the clamps for the rear beam attachment. If you can, try to get some eibach or neuspeed clamps and rubbers as they are stronger than the H&R items. Send an email to all the firms. You should be able to get them direct.
 
Yeah, the Eibahc comes with EVERYTHING.

Abdus - get yourself a Walbro 255 or 4 bar in tank fuel pump.

Prawn and I recently found out they are needed for decent figures on the K03s upgrade if you have a higher mileage car (and therefore old fuel pump)
 
Dave_Bayern said:
Yeah, the Eibahc comes with EVERYTHING.

Abdus - get yourself a Walbro 255 or 4 bar in tank fuel pump.

Prawn and I recently found out they are needed for decent figures on the K03s upgrade if you have a higher mileage car (and therefore old fuel pump)
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave

where can get the walbro 255? what difference does it make?

ICE- not sure about that one
 
Abdus - Dont bother with the Walbro really, they are noisy if running inline, and suffer from fuel starvation with less than 1/4 tank when intank, look for 8L9 919 051 J or 8L9 919 051 G for a 4 bar A3/S3/TT/4Mo fuel pump thats plug and play in place of the existing one.

What prawn and I found was that we were running about half a bar under what we should have been running at very high revs (6500-7500) due to the pump not being able to keep up.

The 4 bar fuel pump fixes this.

About £70 from The Parts Gateway or find one on eBay.

It also has the added advantage of raising peak power a tiny bit, and when on the rollers last weekend we saw 238Bhp from my car with the standard fuel pump.
 
yeah, that's the one I was looking at. Soon getting it. Anything I do about the chrome look of the pipes? I want them black, how to get it painted?

BTW, is that the small core version? What does Prawn have on his?
 
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