B&O speaker connectors

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Can anyone confirm if the connectors (male/female) for the B&O speakers on the B8 A4/A5 are different to the non B&O speakers?

I think they might be - if anyone can shed any light here (part number, link) that would be helpful! I've scoured eBay and found some info but not quite what i need without just buying them. Specifically, it's the rear door mids.

Thanks,
 
Ah Rocket wires, good shout and thank you.

I have Hertz components in the front and standard Audi Sound System speakers in the rear. For now, a cost effective upgrade is to replace with the B&O factory.

I know there's a lot of talk that they aren't great and certainly not worth what Audi charge. And I would be surprised if they're simply badged as B&O - ie a licencing deal.

Thanks all the same!
 
Yeah definitely nothing to do with B&O except the name these speakers are the cheapest crap from the parts bin Audi could find. I replaced all mine with Audison Voce ,tweeters, mids in the dash and 6.5 woofers in the front doors. Rears I went with AVX 6.5'S in the rear and removed the factory tweeters. For the sub if you can call the factory effort a sub I fitted a Kicker KEYLOC DSP and an Audison 10" AS2 Sub massive improvement. Next step is to replace the factory amp and DSP with Audison too
 
Yeah definitely nothing to do with B&O except the name these speakers are the cheapest crap from the parts bin Audi could find. I replaced all mine with Audison Voce ,tweeters, mids in the dash and 6.5 woofers in the front doors. Rears I went with AVX 6.5'S in the rear and removed the factory tweeters. For the sub if you can call the factory effort a sub I fitted a Kicker KEYLOC DSP and an Audison 10" AS2 Sub massive improvement. Next step is to replace the factory amp and DSP with Audison too
I’ve also replaced every speaker in the system except the door tweeters. Which tweeters did you use and how did you fit/wire them up?
My system sounds very good now but knowing the factory tweeters are there annoys me. I couldn’t find a decent diy for wiring in new tweeters anywhere online. Audison AP1s were my choice as I have AP8s and AP65s already
 
I used Audison av 1.1 with a billet pod. I bought a used pair of non B&O /tweeter panels and reinforced the rear for stiffness.
 

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I used Audison av 1.1 with a billet pod. I bought a used pair of non B&O /tweeter panels and reinforced the rear for stiffness.
Very nice. And how did you wire them in? Did you need to use crossovers and splice into the original wiring?
 
I used one of these soldered into the positive line
 

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Thanks for the pics. Is there any way the AV1.1’s would fit behind the oem cover on the B&O covers?

Id like to do an oem+ swap. Remove the oem tweeter for one that fits in the same space without modifying excessively.
 
They will fit, I'm sure I read on another forum somewhere someone cut out the B&o centre on the cover and fit them into the covers but the imaging is all over on them. I still haven't decided if I like the car with or without centre speaker in the dash either
 
They will fit, I'm sure I read on another forum somewhere someone cut out the B&o centre on the cover and fit them into the covers but the imaging is all over on them. I still haven't decided if I like the car with or without centre speaker in the dash either
So are you saying that there’s no need to fit crossovers? Replicating the factory setup of tweeter with inline capacitor is good enough?

How can you tell if you’re using correct capacitor for the tweeter you have? I’m planning on using AP1’s instead of AB1.1’s. I assume the same capacitor as in your image will work fine?

sorry for all the questions. I’m a noob when it comes to tweeters
 
its either that or trying to tap into wires under the dash ,I used the same size capacitor as was in the car tweeter just went for a better quality.
 
I found a lot info on this forum




 
I found a lot info on this forum




Amazing, thanks!
I’ve opted for Focal TWU1.5 tweeters instead. They come with integrated capacitors and are a very similar size to the oem tweeter covers. I’m hoping that they’ll be a direct replacement and won’t need an additional capacitor.
 

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