Check for oil pressure

T3r0

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Hi guys!

So im getting ready for first start on my engine build and im wondering what's the easiest way to check that the engine is building oil pressure?
Can i just disconnect the return line from the sump and crank the engine?
Also, can i crank the engine without having the intercooler and radiator attatched?

Best regards
 
Oil pressure gauge is the best way tbh but pull the injector power plugs then just turn the engine over for a bit to build initial pressure.... most engines I have built tend to sound a bit rattly top end depending on if you have used new followers or taken enough time that the original ones have decompressed... this should go after a little while though...

You can start and idle the engine with no intercooler or rad/coolant... however... if you are still running OE ECU and a MAF then unplug the MAF electrically else the engine won't run well or indeed at all...

You can run the engine very briefly with no coolant but I wouldn't advise you rev it at all or run it more than 20secs.... that should be enough to ensure the engine does run at least

<tuffty/>
 
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Not to high jack thread, but could not find correct place for post.
I was getting oil warnings this week, So parked her up and took sump off today. found the oil pump tensioner in bits.
I have order new pump, chain and tensioner, Can all be fitted from underneath?
Many thanks
 

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Not to high jack thread, but could not find correct place for post.
I was getting oil warnings this week, So parked her up and took sump off today. found the oil pump tensioner in bits.
I have order new pump, chain and tensioner, Can all be fitted from underneath?
Many thanks
You could have started your own thread mate tbh but... you can do it from underneath but you will need to remove the front seal cover to access the crank sprocket and where the tensioner bolts on..... this will need you to remove the crank pulley (new bolt required after) and the timing belt ... you would be advised to replace the front crank seal while doing the job too

<tuffty/>
 
Thanks Tuffy, Not what I wanted to hear, such a bad design.
I am going to try mod this so that I can fit the new tensioner from the sump access.
Looks like there is a little gap to fit it from underneath and the threaded hole for the tensioner goes through the wall
So I am thinking of grinding tensioner bolt off from underneath and removing
Modifying new tensioner so that she can slid in from underneath, and be retained in place with a bolt that you put in from piston one side wall.
QUICK DRAFT.
1659453346932
 
I wouldn't want to be modding anything on that dude... I would either do it properly or not at all

<tuffty/>
 
Advice taken.

The following went well in the sun shine today

Oil pump. Chain, Tensioner. Cam belt , cam tensioner, cam idler, water pump, Crank shaft seal
Oil and filter
Hoping that all is still healthy with S3,
After priming oil, we fire her up.
Sounding OK, but straight away whilst listening to her idle I new that the broken oil pump tensioner was not the main culprit.
an uneasy rattle type noise, not a bent rod or small or big end.
like a cam knock? but knock was not under load.
Maybe turbo bearing failure, I was thinking.....
I want to upgrade engine but was not ready for it now, I got too much on at mo...
Plan to take I-ECU log to see if any comes up tomorrow.
Else


Engine out and total rebuild, with bigger turbo and get to fit rods and pistons already gathering dust.

Will take I-ecu log to see what data is recorded and a video to hopefully capture the intensity of the noise after deacceleration tomorrow.

Found this on the group, thought this best sounded like my problem.
If it is, what are the best options available for car.

Thanks Tuffy
Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
VVT has two effective positions only... the code relates to the ECU trying to advance the cam and not detecting the advance in a timely fashion..
VVT is oil pressure driven... wear of the piston and the pads is subjective so cannot predict a mileage...
Symptoms of a 'failing' VVT range from throwing this code to a brrrraaat noise noise as the VVT drops back into its normal position coming off the revs... normally around 2000 rpm...
Complete failure can range from the code to a very very bad rattle is the pads fall to bits..
In my experience this code means the VVT needs replacing... simple as that..
 
Oil pressure gauge is the best way tbh but pull the injector power plugs then just turn the engine over for a bit to build initial pressure.... most engines I have built tend to sound a bit rattly top end depending on if you have used new followers or taken enough time that the original ones have decompressed... this should go after a little while though...

You can start and idle the engine with no intercooler or rad/coolant... however... if you are still running OE ECU and a MAF then unplug the MAF electrically else the engine won't run well or indeed at all...

You can run the engine very briefly with no coolant but I wouldn't advise you rev it at all or run it more than 20secs.... that should be enough to ensure the engine does run at least

<tuffty/>
Okey. Thanks
I installed a pressure gauge an got the pressure to 30+ psi after a few turns.
Then i got the engine to start up but it ran kinda bad.
I installed front and connected all pipes and filled up with coolant and started it up again but it ran kinda bad. Checked codes and had 2 codes that always poped up when i turn ignition on, those are on the throttle body, one is mechanical failiure.

Remembered that i accidentally dropped the throttlebody on the floor a few weeks ago, it got some visual damage..
I have now ordered a new used one and hope it arrives next week. Hope that solves the issue.

If the timing was wrong, iguess i would get codes related to that?
The codes i had except those on the throttlebody was all related to air pressure and air flow, i assume that is because the throttle cant open to control the airflow?

I have video of the engine starting up, but cant upload it here =/