TUNING - Celtic, APR,Revo etc

I
Dippy said:
@andyay123 - I apologise if I'm about to insult your intelligence...

Before you tune, be aware of the consequences
Increasing power and torque will increase stress on the engine and other components. As such the consumables of both may "wear" more quickly. This means that it is wise to service a tuned car more frequently, but also to change certain "lifetime" components and consumable to service items. So for example gearbox ATF oil & filter ought to be changed at less than 38K intevals and it would be wise to have then hypoid oil changed at some point. It is also sensible to be aware of the weak points in the car because tuning might make them fail more quickly. On the B8 the DL501 gearbox is top of this list (the 3rd version fitted from 2103-ish is hopefully OK, but ones before that are at risk). Next is the crank pulley which is likely to fail at some point. On early engines the water pump wears out. On the newer engines (mid-2014 onwards) the supercharger clutch is a risk item. Ideally these risks should be mitigated (where possible) at the time of tuning, but if that's not done owners should be aware that tuning might accelerate failure.

Stage 1 vs stage 2
The OE ECU map restricts peak torque and power by opening a bypass valve in the supercharger to recycle the air and limit manifold pressure. In simple terms stage 1 raises the threshold of when this is opened. More air needs more fuel so the fuel map has to be changed. However depending on the tuner, other maps such as the spark timing can be tweaked. To increase torque and power beyond this, even more airflow is needed to increase manifold pressure. This is done by increasing the revs of the supercharger in relation to the engine revs. The OE pulley ratio is 2.56 so when the engine is at 7,200 rpm the supercharger is at just over 18,400 rpm. One way to change the ratio is to use a smaller supercharger pulley. It has been found that the smallest without risking belt slip is about 57 mm and this increases the ratio to 2.84 and the supercharger revs to just over 20,400 rpm. However the Eaton supercharger is spec'd to 24,000 rpm, so the ratio can be increased to 3.33 (for a 7.200 rpm redline). This can be achieved by increasing the size of the crank pulley, either on its own, or in conjunction with a smaller supercharger drive pulley (which is known as DP - dual pulley).

Stage 3
For completeness it should be mentioned that further gains are possible. An attempt was made at a supercharger upgrade but its benefits were never realised, especially given the price. The other solution is to increase maximum airflow further by removing the restriction at the throttle by increasing its size. I think the only commercial TB upgrade is from APR with their "Ultracharger" brand.

Tuning requirements
I think one of the biggest areas of confusion are about what else needs to be done as part of the tuning. I mentioned components at risk of failure above, and I'm going to ignore subjects like braking and suspension, and focus on things directly related to performance.
FUEL: In basic terms the octane refers to how "smoothly" the fuel burns. An engine which is tuned to do so can extract more energy from a higher octane fuel and this gives better torque. Most tuners program the ECU to do this, and so a tuned engine will have higher torque and power with higher octane fuel. However the engine should still cope with lower octane, it will "******" and run at lower power.
AIR: Increasing the manifold pressure in stage 1 and 2 is only possible if there is sufficient airflow to allow it. I have not seen any evidence, but it would appear that a stage 1 tune is not restricted by the OE intake, and certainly not at the OE redline. However I have seen evidence that stage 2 will be restricted at the top end and that's why intake uprating is always recommended for stage 2 (and a stage 3 larger TB is simply an extension of this uprating).
TRANSMISSION: Increasing the torque from the engine is only of benefit if it can be transmitted to the wheels. By definition the point in the transmission where loss of torque will be highest is at the clutches. The clamping pressure of the clutch packs is set by the TCU. There are many cases where tuning easily exceeds this OE pressure and there is slip (I believe the S3 is such a case). I believe that MRC has also seen it on the S4/5 which is why they recommend the TCU remap which increases the pressure. The other limit in the TCU is the redline. The B8 had this at about 6,800 rpm (I think) whereas the B8.5 was reduced to about 6,250 rpm. It is accepted that this platform can cope with around 7,200 rpm so most TCU remaps will increase the redline to this, releasing a bit more power.
EXHAUST: Unlike many platforms, it seems that the exhaust system on the B8 is not restrictive even at stage 2. However the cats are vulnerable to heat and may be restrictive at stage 3 so ought to be uprated or moved.
HEAT: Since hot air expands heat is an enemy of tuning (particularly forced induction). The heat exchanger system varies between the B8 and B8.5, and again for the CREC engine, so the situation regarding what uprating is needed is unclear. Of course actual running heat relates to how the car is driven. Uprating is recommended in stage 2 for hard driving and hot environments, and seems to be a requirement for stage 3.

Custom tuning
As I noted, any stage needs ECU reprogramming to change the engine maps. Without doubt there is skill to this and some tuners can optimise maps better than others. This has more impact the higher the gains. However also no two cars are absolutely identical, and a skilled tuner can optimise a map for a specific car. Most tuners use generic maps which were created on a development car. Other tuners (MRC being the prime example) will start with their generic maps but then tweak them for each car to create a custom tune which (in most cases) results in slightly higher performance.
Click to expand...

I only need stage 1 so now its just deciding between Revo, APR and MRC. I already have rear silencers arriving from BCS exhausts. I am swaying towards MRC to be honest. 2 hour drive compared to both Revo and APR on my doorstep.
 
andyay123 said:
I only need stage 1 so now its just deciding between Revo, APR and MRC. I already have rear silencers arriving from BCS exhausts. I am swaying towards MRC to be honest. 2 hour drive compared to both Revo and APR on my doorstep.
Click to expand...
As I'm sure other(s) have already suggested, this tuning game is addictive. @arad85 is currently considering adding an afterburner to the back of his S5 :) and even @jdp1962 is looking at intake kits. If you are sure that you only want stage 1 now, then I suggest you might think about the possibility of going stage 2 in the future, since you are likely to go back to the same tuner. Stage 2 at MRC is different from stage 2 at APR or stage 1+ at REVO. Then there's the question of what they would charge for an upgrade. That might be something you could negotiate on in advance.
 
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Dippy said:
As I'm sure other(s) have already suggested, this tuning game is addictive. @arad85 is currently considering adding an afterburner to the back of his S5 :) and even @jdp1962 is looking at intake kits. If you are sure that you only want stage 1 now, then I suggest you might think about the possibility of going stage 2 in the future, since you are likely to go back to the same tuner. Stage 2 at MRC is different from stage 2 at APR or stage 1+ at REVO. Then there's the question of what they would charge for an upgrade. That might be something you could negotiate on in advance.
Click to expand...

Even jdp1962! :tearsofjoy:
 
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Tashfeen said:
Good choice @jdp1962 .

A quick question (if you don't mind me asking) for the gearbox and filter change you going back to the stealership or using your local garage?


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Click to expand...
All being done at local independent.
 
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Tash, are you undecided where to get yours done? Just don't go to this place...
 
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Dippy said:
Tash, are you undecided where to get yours done? Just don't go to this place...
Click to expand...

Lol @Dippy. Definitely not .

I spoke to Mark earlier today about it as well as front and rear discs and pads on the S4. I have asked him for quotes on couple of options, which include:

1- RS front and rear setup
2- ECS Tuning 2-Piece Semi floating Drilled and Slotted
3- Tarox Spiral Grooved F2000 and
4- Tarox Sports Japan - Drilled/Grooved.
5- Stock S4 discs

My only concern with Tarox is that it is One-Piece as well as him supplying the parts as I would not like to hit with 'hidden charges'. Let's see what he comes back with.


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I'll be interested to know what you do. Whilst I'm finding the OE brakes OK (apart from the squealing), it does make sense to me that when I need new discs, it's better to pay the extra to uprate rather than just replace with new OE. I just don't want to go down the path of my B5: I had Porsche discs and calipers fitted by AmD and didn't realise that they needed adapters made by West Engineering. So Mark had to find this out when the discs needed replacing. Although it turned out OK there was a delay for him to get parts. So if I uprate I'd prefer to do so with off-the-shelf parts.
 
Do REVO and APR re install the map free of charge if Audi remove it?
I know Celtic do
 
Dippy said:
@andyay123 - I apologise if I'm about to insult your intelligence...

Before you tune, be aware of the consequences
Increasing power and torque will increase stress on the engine and other components. As such the consumables of both may "wear" more quickly. This means that it is wise to service a tuned car more frequently, but also to change certain "lifetime" components and consumable to service items. So for example gearbox ATF oil & filter ought to be changed at less than 38K intevals and it would be wise to have then hypoid oil changed at some point. It is also sensible to be aware of the weak points in the car because tuning might make them fail more quickly. On the B8 the DL501 gearbox is top of this list (the 3rd version fitted from 2103-ish is hopefully OK, but ones before that are at risk). Next is the crank pulley which is likely to fail at some point. On early engines the water pump wears out. On the newer engines (mid-2014 onwards) the supercharger clutch is a risk item. Ideally these risks should be mitigated (where possible) at the time of tuning, but if that's not done owners should be aware that tuning might accelerate failure.

Stage 1 vs stage 2
The OE ECU map restricts peak torque and power by opening a bypass valve in the supercharger to recycle the air and limit manifold pressure. In simple terms stage 1 raises the threshold of when this is opened. More air needs more fuel so the fuel map has to be changed. However depending on the tuner, other maps such as the spark timing can be tweaked. To increase torque and power beyond this, even more airflow is needed to increase manifold pressure. This is done by increasing the revs of the supercharger in relation to the engine revs. The OE pulley ratio is 2.56 so when the engine is at 7,200 rpm the supercharger is at just over 18,400 rpm. One way to change the ratio is to use a smaller supercharger pulley. It has been found that the smallest without risking belt slip is about 57 mm and this increases the ratio to 2.84 and the supercharger revs to just over 20,400 rpm. However the Eaton supercharger is spec'd to 24,000 rpm, so the ratio can be increased to 3.33 (for a 7.200 rpm redline). This can be achieved by increasing the size of the crank pulley, either on its own, or in conjunction with a smaller supercharger drive pulley (which is known as DP - dual pulley).

Stage 3
For completeness it should be mentioned that further gains are possible. An attempt was made at a supercharger upgrade but its benefits were never realised, especially given the price. The other solution is to increase maximum airflow further by removing the restriction at the throttle by increasing its size. I think the only commercial TB upgrade is from APR with their "Ultracharger" brand.

Tuning requirements
I think one of the biggest areas of confusion are about what else needs to be done as part of the tuning. I mentioned components at risk of failure above, and I'm going to ignore subjects like braking and suspension, and focus on things directly related to performance.
FUEL: In basic terms the octane refers to how "smoothly" the fuel burns. An engine which is tuned to do so can extract more energy from a higher octane fuel and this gives better torque. Most tuners program the ECU to do this, and so a tuned engine will have higher torque and power with higher octane fuel. However the engine should still cope with lower octane, it will "******" and run at lower power.
AIR: Increasing the manifold pressure in stage 1 and 2 is only possible if there is sufficient airflow to allow it. I have not seen any evidence, but it would appear that a stage 1 tune is not restricted by the OE intake, and certainly not at the OE redline. However I have seen evidence that stage 2 will be restricted at the top end and that's why intake uprating is always recommended for stage 2 (and a stage 3 larger TB is simply an extension of this uprating).
TRANSMISSION: Increasing the torque from the engine is only of benefit if it can be transmitted to the wheels. By definition the point in the transmission where loss of torque will be highest is at the clutches. The clamping pressure of the clutch packs is set by the TCU. There are many cases where tuning easily exceeds this OE pressure and there is slip (I believe the S3 is such a case). I believe that MRC has also seen it on the S4/5 which is why they recommend the TCU remap which increases the pressure. The other limit in the TCU is the redline. The B8 had this at about 6,800 rpm (I think) whereas the B8.5 was reduced to about 6,250 rpm. It is accepted that this platform can cope with around 7,200 rpm so most TCU remaps will increase the redline to this, releasing a bit more power.
EXHAUST: Unlike many platforms, it seems that the exhaust system on the B8 is not restrictive even at stage 2. However the cats are vulnerable to heat and may be restrictive at stage 3 so ought to be uprated or moved.
HEAT: Since hot air expands heat is an enemy of tuning (particularly forced induction). The heat exchanger system varies between the B8 and B8.5, and again for the CREC engine, so the situation regarding what uprating is needed is unclear. Of course actual running heat relates to how the car is driven. Uprating is recommended in stage 2 for hard driving and hot environments, and seems to be a requirement for stage 3.

Custom tuning
As I noted, any stage needs ECU reprogramming to change the engine maps. Without doubt there is skill to this and some tuners can optimise maps better than others. This has more impact the higher the gains. However also no two cars are absolutely identical, and a skilled tuner can optimise a map for a specific car. Most tuners use generic maps which were created on a development car. Other tuners (MRC being the prime example) will start with their generic maps but then tweak them for each car to create a custom tune which (in most cases) results in slightly higher performance.
Click to expand...

That's probably the most interesting, helpful and concise post I've seen in any forum, fantastic - thank you!
 
meph137 said:
it seems potentially wise to NOT go there if you have a tune?
Click to expand...

^^^ You said it yourself. Tune or not you should go to stealers only until the car is under warranty or if you have spare / too much money to throw away.

I tuned my S4 while it still had few months warranty left on it. The car has been with them twice since; once for a full service (I got two free when I bought the car) and washer jet replacement. For any future work the car will either go to MDM Technik or MRC.


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Tashfeen said:
^^^ You said it yourself. Tune or not you should go to stealers only until the car is under warranty or if you have spare / too much money to throw away.

I tuned my S4 while it still had few months warranty left on it. The car has been with them twice since; once for a full service (I got two free when I bought the car) and washer jet replacement. For any future work the car will either go to MDM Technik or MRC.


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Click to expand...

Hmm, I never know about resale value and the benefit of a full Audi service history - seems wise to have. I suppose if you have a tune that kinda goes out the window anyway.

Are MDM well known in the forums or just that they’re local to you? Would be keen to use someone who is trusted if I move away from Audi themselves, garages annoy the hell out of me - every one gives you a different opinion so never know who to trust! Need someone local to Nottingham who is good.


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audi upgrades
weekenny said:
That depends on the reputation of your local dealer, mine is rubbish.
Click to expand...

I doubt many people look at who did the servicing though right? If it’s Audi most people are happy I imagine. Obviously people here will be an exception that that perhaps.


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meph137 said:
I doubt many people look at who did the servicing though right? If it’s Audi most people are happy I imagine. Obviously people here will be an exception that that perhaps.


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Click to expand...

I think you’d be surprised at the general publics view of car dealerships. Also the value put on a history. When I was looking for my current S4 I found loads that had spotty or not history. Even the ones with history was a stamped book, nothing more. I made calls to the dealers listed to check the books were genuine. Not all are you can buy stamps and books on eBay. My old S4 I had a tonne of history rr printouts, invoices, etc. the most recent owner is on here and all the history has been lost somewhere along the line but that didn’t really knock the value.
 
meph137 said:
Hmm, I never know about resale value and the benefit of a full Audi service history - seems wise to have. I suppose if you have a tune that kinda goes out the window anyway.

Are MDM well known in the forums or just that they’re local to you? Would be keen to use someone who is trusted if I move away from Audi themselves, garages annoy the hell out of me - every one gives you a different opinion so never know who to trust! Need someone local to Nottingham who is good.

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Click to expand...

It depends on the buyer as well as the car. Like others have said, for a non-tuned car maybe but for a tuned one personally I wouldn't take it back to the dealership for any work.

@Dippy as well as a colleague recommend MDM to me and I have found Mark to be very knowledgeable and professional. He knows his stuff and if you check his FB page/website he specialises in VAG cars. He has done a lot of work on S4/5s, R8s and other cars. My colleague had his S4 tuned by him as well and he regularly did all the maintenance work for him. Same for Dippy.

Luckily for me both MDM and MRC are local to me and given their reputation I won't hesitate taking the car to them for any work.

And when it comes to buying a tuned car I am sure the individual would understand the reasons for using a specialist rather than dealership.

Nottingham to Banbury (MRC) and Marlow (MDM) is quite a distance but question is how regularly would you be needing the 'maintainence' work carried out? They both offer courtesy cars . I am sure you will be able to find someone closer to you.

However, just to make you aware as well as to confuse you further () when I last took my car to MRC for a health check there was a chap who travelled all the way from Germany for a health check as well. And when I was there for the remap they had an RS6 from Dubai (surprise) and an S4 from France parked outside - speaks a lot about their reputation and for me this is enough for a peace of mind!


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@andyay123 - the only way that a dealer would "remove" a map is by doing an ECU update - i.e. flash it with a new version of the OE firmware. I am unaware of any pending updates for the B8 S4/S5, and certainly not for 2015+ models. I know this because the last time I used a dealer (and hopefully it really was the last time for this car), they checked for updates and found none. Of course when the service rep started the sentence "the tech checked for software updates..." I was ready to throw a fit if he then continued that they had found some for the engine and updated my ECU without my permission. But I can't answer your question except to suggest that some tuners will do so and only charge for the labour.

I only have experience of selling one tuned car, my B5 S4. Due to its age I don't think FASH was a problem for commercial resale (e.g. the dealers who offered me a ridiculously low trade-in before even asking about history). I sold it privately and to an enthusiast, which was after an attempt to sell to another enthusiast fell through. Both cared nothing that it did not have a FASH, more importantly was the fact that it had a complete proven history - invoices etc. I can't speak for either buyer but I'd guess that they were actually pleased to see that the car had been serviced by a independent specialist (MDM Technik) during most of its life rather than an Audi dealer.

Part of me expects that the B8 S4 and S5 will become classic cars for enthusiasts like the B5 was and still is, and to a certain extent we are seeing that. However I think that is only true within a certain price range, so only the older cars. So those of use with tuned cars only a few years old and valued at £25K+ will struggle to find enthusiast buyers and be left to the same market as the non-tuned cars. Then we'd be in a worse position because buyers would avoid the tuned cars. That's why some owners have to take the car back to stock. But I hope that when the cars get to 5+ years old they will be seen as very affordable with 450hp+, in comparison to the price of cars like the RS4.
 
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Dippy said:
I only have experience of selling one tuned car, my B5 S4. Due to its age I don't think FASH was a problem for commercial resale (e.g. the dealers who offered me a ridiculously low trade-in before even asking about history). I sold it privately and to an enthusiast
Click to expand...

I'm curious - how long did it take to find a private buyer? This is one of my worries with tuning my car, currently it is stock

Dippy said:
But I hope that when the cars get to 5+ years old they will be seen as very affordable with 450hp+, in comparison to the price of cars like the RS4
Click to expand...

Same as above for me - I'd love to go to stage 2 (currently untuned) but resale value does worry me, especially as I bought the car for a fair amount (£24.5k) due to the sheer amount of options it had (I think the only thing it doesn't have is rear sun blinds!) and the fact it was tidy. I used to have a Supra Twin Turbo which I actually didn't modify, but I imagine that's the sort of car that if you did tasteful upgrades to it increases the value, but something does worry me about chucking cash at tuning the S4 and actually reducing it's value, which it seems it pretty much would.
 
I'm not a typical case I think. The first potential buyer approached me at a petrol station and asked about my car. It was that contact which started me thinking about selling it. So I stayed in contact with him and so several months later I asked him if he was interested in buying and he was. However it seemed that his level of "interest" may have been insufficient for him to actually proceed. So I then advertised the car on the forums and found the second buyer very quickly. But note that this was a 13 year old B5 S4 which I sold for £3500 IIRC, so doesn't relate well to our cars!

I have to say that I have tuned my S5 completely oblivious to its resale value. That's because there is every chance that I will keep it a long time. Although I proposed 5+ years above, for me I imagine that mine will be at least 6 years old before I consider selling, and probably older, depending of course what I'd want to replace it with. By that time I will have had my fun and accepted the depreciation (especially considering that the list price was £52K but with discounts I paid £43K) and so if I fail to find an enthusiast I'll accept what I can get. However in your case if you are really sensitive to the resale value because you might be in a position where you need to sell, I'd advise not tuning. When you sell a tuned car and want an enthusiast to buy, you need to be in a position to wait.
 
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Dippy said:
I'm not a typical case I think. The first potential buyer approached me at a petrol station and asked about my car. It was that contact which started me thinking about selling it. So I stayed in contact with him and so several months later I asked him if he was interested in buying and he was. However it seemed that his level of "interest" may have been insufficient for him to actually proceed. So I then advertised the car on the forums and found the second buyer very quickly. But note that this was a 13 year old B5 S4 which I sold for £3500 IIRC, so doesn't relate well to our cars!

I have to say that I have tuned my S5 completely oblivious to its resale value. That's because there is every chance that I will keep it a long time. Although I proposed 5+ years above, for me I imagine that mine will be at least 6 years old before I consider selling, and probably older, depending of course what I'd want to replace it with. By that time I will have had my fun and accepted the depreciation (especially considering that the list price was £52K but with discounts I paid £43K) and so if I fail to find an enthusiast I'll accept what I can get. However in your case if you are really sensitive to the resale value because you might be in a position where you need to sell, I'd advise not tuning. When you sell a tuned car and want an enthusiast to buy, you need to be in a position to wait.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all your experience. Invaluable.
I changed my car every 6-9 months for the last 5 years however now that i am not working the s4 b8 is here to stay for a few years. Exhaust on its way, tinting windows next week. I will remap the car once the oil consumption tests are out of the way. I have stage 1 oil test on Monday of next week. It lost 0.5 litres in approx 80 miles.
 
Dippy said:
The first potential buyer approached me at a petrol station and asked about my car
Click to expand...

I can safely say that has never happened to me :) the most I got was some drunk guy shouting that I had a nice car whilst he was crossing the road (when I had the Supra).

Dippy said:
for me I imagine that mine will be at least 6 years old before I consider selling
Click to expand...

So I suppose then you are quite confident in the longevity of MRC stage 2?
 
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meph137 said:
So I suppose then you are quite confident in the longevity of MRC stage 2?
Click to expand...
That's a good question. I may have stated on this forum before that I followed the same strategy as my B5 S4: It was one of the last B5 S4's made, and so (as far as possible in economic/marketing terms) Audi should have fixed its major problems. And it had a good history of tuning to several stages with plenty of information on the forums to judge the likely consequences of that tuning. So I got a stage 1+ tune on my B5 (remap and full Milltek) with a good level of confidence on longevity (although I was already ready for the risk of turbo failure because turbos have a broad longevity curve). I had that car for about 13 years (11 of them tuned) with no major problems - including the turbos.

So it was with that experience, when I saw that a tuned B8 was the best replacement for my B5, that looked at the decision in the same way. The B8 was also well into its lifecycle and nearing the end of it. Not only that, the 3.0 supercharged engine is an evolution of the 3.2 NA engine, so I had confidence in that. Then when I checked the tuning history I could see that there had been several years of tuning this engine across the world and no major reports of problems. So it was indeed with confidence that I proceeded. When I discovered that Audi had created the CREC engine I was somewhat nervous. I was partly pleased because although the engine was designed to meet the EU6 emissions standard, it was clear that Audi had taken the opportunity to address some weaknesses, such as the timing chains. However of course the other part of me was concerned that there was now no history of tuned CREC engines to have any confidence in their longevity. But by that time I owned the car with a CREC engine so just proceeded with my plan.

I will admit that in my research I possibly underestimated the risk of DL501 failure. It wasn't until after I had bought my S5 that I really started to look into the problem reports. It does remain my biggest concern. I remain hopeful that the 2nd revision of the DL501 is good, but my eyes are open to the risk that one day I'll see one of those horrible transmission warnings on my DIS. All I can do is do what I can to mitigate that risk, which is why I got my ATF oil service done at 13K.
 
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BTW The above is also why I would not buy a B9 S5 or RS5 and tune it - too soon to judge reliability.
 
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I also forgot about the crank pulley. I have confidence with the vdamper. I would have no confidence with a solution that kept the OE pulley because they clearly fail at some point and can cause collateral damage. I read up enough about damping to pay the extra for the vdamper. I am sure that in the short to medium term the single piece lightweight pulleys are fine. But in the long term I'm not so sure. I think MRC started doing their stage 2 in 2012 so we've had 5-6 years of cars with undamped pulleys. I don't think that's long enough to be sure that those undamped vibrations are not causing bearing wear, hairline fractures etc.
 
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I'm surprised more people don't run Meth injection on this platform to help stabilize the IAT's,
 
Guys does anyone know what the plastic plugs are called and where can i order some spares as lost one
 

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audi upgrades
Does Stage 1/Stage 1+ affect emissions? Are modified cars at significant risk of MOT failure due to emissions in particular with new standards set to come into play?
 
Hope it's ok to join in here, I asked on the Allroad page and got no response.
I have a 2.0tdi 2015 Allroad (177) which I'd like to get remapped and was after some advice, recommendations, pointers etc. I've been quoted locally for possible gains up to 215bhp 430nm at around £590. No rolling road session due to the 4wd, how can they prove gains?
Does this seem reasonable, worth while or pointless? Any experiences of similar?
Looking for Essex/Herts/Suffolk/London ideally.

Cheers
 
Personally, I'd want to see a before/after rolling road report when having a map. I realise you're looking at the home counties to the north and east of London, but you're not that far from Bexleyheath in Kent, where Sanspeed have a 4WD-compatible rolling road. They did my S4 stage one map; I paid £600, including the before and after power runs.
 
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That's my feeling too, I like to see where my money is going...
They are also recommending the gearbox remap which sounds sensible.
Still wondering if the extra 40 odd horses would be worth the money..
 
Mow2512 said:
That's my feeling too, I like to see where my money is going...
They are also recommending the gearbox remap which sounds sensible.
Still wondering if the extra 40 odd horses would be worth the money..
Click to expand...
Assuming the 215 you're being quoted is PS, then that's a 21.5% increase. That's proportionately a higher gain than I got for my £600; my S4 went from 333PS to 393PS (386BHP) which is an 18% gain. Only you know if it's worth the money, but I'd be surprised if you weren't happy with the outcome.
 
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Hellz said:
Does Stage 1/Stage 1+ affect emissions? Are modified cars at significant risk of MOT failure due to emissions in particular with new standards set to come into play?
Click to expand...
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the new MOT standard for emissions is specifically for testing DPF's on diesel cars?
If you still have the CAT's in place you'll be fine, my Stage2 sails through the MOT.
 
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