Running in help

Timi8888

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So after a delay in picking up my S3 which was meant to be 1st of September, I've finally got a collection date of Wed (tomorrow). I just wanted to know what was the best way to run it in? Some say take it easy, and others say drive it hard from the go. Anyone got some facts for me please?

They lent me an S1 this weekend which was plenty fast for me. Was suprisingly quick and a lot of fun to drive. Haven't driven the S3 since a test drive 3 months ago so can't remember what its like haha. Anyone else experienced the S1 and can tell me what more I should expect from the S3?

Thanks all.
 
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For running in, there are loads of articles and stuff - all i did was take it 'relatively' easy for the first 1000 miles. Still used full throttle but kept it under about 4000rpm. The second it hit 1000 dropped back into 3rd and hoofed it!

No idea on the S1 - I would like a go in one, bet its like a go kart!
 
So after a delay in picking up my S3 which was meant to be 1st of September, I've finally got a collection date of Wed (tomorrow). I just wanted to know what was the best way to run it in? Some say take it easy, and others say drive it hard from the go. Anyone got some facts for me please?

They lent me an S1 this weekend which was plenty fast for me. Was suprisingly quick and a lot of fun to drive. Haven't driven the S3 since a test drive 3 months ago so can't remember what its like haha. Anyone else experienced the S1 and can tell me what more I should expect from the S3?

Thanks all.

Morning Tim, we have a sticky thread section with this topic covered.

Please see below:

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...how-to-guides-on-the-8v-chassis.198794/page-2

In summary, give the car some mechanical sympathy from the start, let it warm up every time and put some miles on it so things are bedded in before you start to really extend it. Just as you would with new brakes for exanple...Follow that and I fail to see how you can do anything but good.

Enjoy your new car

Jungle
 
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These two links helped me a lot to decide how to do it:
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/running-in-a-new-rs3.250519/
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm (this is about sport bikes but applies to cars as well)

Here is my running in recipe:
  • #1 all time rule: Warm engine (#2 would be no labouring).
  • 0-50km (0-30mi): hard throttle from 2.000rpm up to 4-5.000rpm, let off the gas and let the engine brake on it's own down to 2.000rpm. You can do this in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. You may need to be in the countryside to do this properly. This will give a nice seal to the piston rings which running in is all about.
  • 50-500km (30-300mi): Vary speed and run it through the gears. Avoid longer highway runs.
  • 500km (300mi)-∞: Run it like an S3 should be run!
  • 1000-2000km (600-1200mi): Change the oil and oil filter.
Don't overcomplicate this. The tolerances of engines today are so good that it really can't go wrong - how to break in your engine properly is like asking what beer is best (However the only correct answer to this would be "a Carlsberg").
 
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So many discrepancies on this. Our advise as a dealer is, drive it as you would day to day for 1000 miles and then you can seriously trash it. That's the same advice the dealership gave me when I picked my S3 up.

I ran my Polo GTI in by driving it normally in comfort for a week and then trashing it from that day on for the year I had it.
My S3 I've done 500 miles now I did 50 miles as gently as possible, then popped it in dynamic and have driven it hard since then but not thrashed. I have only shifted on the red line probably 3 times in that mileage. And 250 miles were in comfort or economy and on a motorway.

I will drop the oil at 1000 miles and then launch it and drive it as I did my Polo GTI from that day on :)

Not driven an S1 but but drove the VW competitor before my S3 and big things I noticed;

Sound was magnificent
Suspension is so much comfier
Cars so much quicker
Handles much better with Quattro
and ofcourse its a chick magnet (not) but I wish

Things to remember, you're also breaking in the suspension, brakes and loosening up the engine so driving to carefully will just plant it into thinking its a normal car. You have to loosen it up :)

Hope this helps
 
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For the first 1000 I drove mine relatively sensibly but didn't nanny it, my dealer told me not to redline up until this and that the ecu holds the car back as well. They really do open up around 4000 mark onwards, the exhaust is certainly louder and the mpg is significantly better now it's on 8000.
 
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For the first 1000 I drove mine relatively sensibly but didn't nanny it, my dealer told me not to redline up until this and that the ecu holds the car back as well. They really do open up around 4000 mark onwards, the exhaust is certainly louder and the mpg is significantly better now it's on 8000.
Not sure mine needs to get any louder :eek:

Res delete :)
 
Not sure mine needs to get any louder :eek:

Res delete :)
It definitely opens up more, even my partner notices and she isn't really a car person, the pops get louder.
 
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It definitely opens up more, even my partner notices and she isn't really a car person, the pops get louder.
This could turn out interesting then, you can already hear mine from half a few streets away and the misses is already moaning ha
 
This could turn out interesting then, you can already hear mine from half a few streets away and the misses is already moaning ha
As winter is looming get her some ear muffs
 
Mine was in dynamic on the drive home from the dealers lol didn't go mad in it but didn't drive like Miss Daisy
 
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Let oil warm up to 80+ then give it death imho.

TX.

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3 simple rules for running in and everyday use

1. Don't thrash it for the first 1000 miles (2/3 revs)
2. Always let engine temp reach at least 70C before booting it
3. Try and wait a minute from turning on ignition to pulling away
 
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I've seen a few people advocate changing the oil/filter after 1000/2000 miles - how advantageous is this?

I'm not mechanically minded so not sure how easy it would be for me to do it myself (plus I'd need some kind of ramp/lift to get under the car anyway) but I don't know how much the dealer would charge to do it plus they'd probably just tell me it's not necessary.
 
Lots of good info here and I think I know what I will do.

1) don't go above 4000rpm for first few hundred miles.
2) don't nanny it to get it to 4000rpm.
3) let engine brake down to lower speeds.
4) change oil after 1000 miles.

Oh and always let her warm up and down properly.

I'm aso interested in how advantageous in changing oil after 1000 miles?
 
Lots of good info here and I think I know what I will do.

1) don't go above 4000rpm for first few hundred miles.
2) don't nanny it to get it to 4000rpm.
3) let engine brake down to lower speeds.
4) change oil after 1000 miles.

Oh and always let her warm up and down properly.

I'm aso interested in how advantageous in changing oil after 1000 miles?
you'll see the results when you take the filter out and see all the filings in it. I will try and get a picture of mine once I've had it done in a couple of weeks.

From a service advisor to you, an oil service at audi will set you back upwards of £164. It's only dropping the oil. Just get an audi approved place to do it on a Saturday morning or something and supply them a genuine filter and oil from the dealership, will set you back £90.
 
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Yes please. Get a picture for me!

Sounds like something worth doing then. I plan to keep it for 5-6 years. So worth looking after her!
 
Yes please. Get a picture for me!

Sounds like something worth doing then. I plan to keep it for 5-6 years. So worth looking after her!

Yep absolutely, I plan to get rid at 3 years so not worth looking after too much
 
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Same 'Running In' boat here, only collected car on Saturday! Had a drive home from dealer, around 70miles mostly motorway/dual-carriageway, and then a trip to get trainers for my eldest on Sunday (town stop-start), and then motorway again (about 85miles) on Monday to work.....generally been driving quite easily, kept revs below 4k pretty much all the time, itching to give a squeeze though!

Will be keeping for max 3yrs, but still will aim to do the right thing - weirdly, cannot remember what I did a couple of years back in my last car, but that was a 3l V6 diesel, so.....
 
Think I got to 500 mile and then thought f**k it and went to the floor and red line in each gear :D
 
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Think I got to 500 mile and then thought f**k it and went to the floor and red line in each gear :D

That was my issue with not doing much mileage, 1000 miles would have been about 2 months for me! 6 months on and I'm not even at 3000 yet.
 
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I am sure to be fired down in a big ball of flames here but arent all engines tested on benches for hours/days/ etc so any running in period is really quite useless?
 
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I am sure to be fired down in a big ball of flames here but arent all engines tested on benches for hours/days/ etc so any running in period is really quite useless?

Think the majority of the running in reccomendations are for the like of suspension/brakes etc.


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Think the majority of the running in reccomendations are for the like of suspension/brakes etc.


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Exactly so it doesnt really matter if you red line it, take it easy, push it hard, leave it a minute before you drive in the morning etc?

Its all stuff made up by the candy companies!!
 
I asked the exact question to my dealer, and he said "you don't need to run it in these days, just drive normally".

So, f#ck it.
 
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As letting the oil reach its optimum temperature (80 degrees) is a vital aspect before hammering the car, I can recommend the VCDS mod to add oil temperature to all menus on the DIS. Not sure if FL cars have this but PFL certainly don’t. Probably the most important VCDS mod.


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As letting the oil reach its optimum temperature (80 degrees) is a vital aspect before hammering the car, I can recommend the VCDS mod to add oil temperature to all menus on the DIS. Not sure if FL cars have this but PFL certainly don’t. Probably the most important VCDS mod.


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This is really important and you might be quite surprised how far you have to go, mileage and time wise to reach normal oil temp and my S3 is around 95 C. This has far more bearing on engine break in procedure and after. Do not floor the throttle or exceed 3,500 rpm until the car until the oil has reached normal temperature To be frank there are those who believe that and I am one that it is necessary in the first 50 miles or so to let the oil reach normal temperature and say in second or third gear to bring the engine up to the red line, release the throttle and let the revs fall to the idle position. This beds in the piston rings and that is a good thing for oil consumption etc.
Also, take it easy on the tyres and brakes for the first 300-500 miles.
Yes, my S3 FL car has oil temperature read out.
 
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This is really important and you might be quite surprised how far you have to go, mileage and time wise to reach normal oil temp and my S3 is around 95 C. This has far more bearing on engine break in procedure and after. Do not floor the throttle or exceed 3,500 rpm until the car until the oil has reached normal temperature To be frank there are those who believe that and I am one that it is necessary in the first 50 miles or so to let the oil reach normal temperature and say in second or third gear to bring the engine up to the red line, release the throttle and let the revs fall to the idle position. This beds in the piston rings and that is a good thing for oil consumption etc.
Also, take it easy on the tyres and brakes for the first 300-500 miles.
Yes, my S3 FL car has oil temperature read out.

I wish there was a definitive answer for break in. For my S3 I kept it under 4000rpm for 300 miles and then got up to the red line but not foot to the floor and repeatedly.

I don’t know if in the first 50 miles I could bring myself to take it up to the red line.
 
I wish there was a definitive answer for break in. For my S3 I kept it under 4000rpm for 300 miles and then got up to the red line but not foot to the floor and repeatedly.

I don’t know if in the first 50 miles I could bring myself to take it up to the red line.

I did with mine :kissingcat: ... Lets see how it pans out within the next few years. I just made sure I let the car warm up first and cool down before I turn off.
 
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I did with mine :kissingcat: ... Lets see how it pans out within the next few years. I just made sure I let the car warm up first and cool down before I turn off.

Which seems to be the only thing we all can agree on :racer: I'm almost at 2.000km and will change the oil and filter next weekend. Then it's time for its first launch control :rockwoot:
 
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Which seems to be the only thing we all can agree on :racer: I'm almost at 2.000km and will change the oil and filter next weekend. Then it's time for its first launch control :rockwoot:

I can’t decide whether to have an oil change so early on, what are the benefits?
 
Fresh oil.......

But is there any need for it? As has been mentioned before, there is a magnet in the base of the sump.

If I had it done, I’d probably have it changed at Audi so I had a record of it. That or a damn good independent.

I know that I will get better servicing from our local performance independent, but a car will always be worth more with manufacturer history.
 
But is there any need for it? As has been mentioned before, there is a magnet in the base of the sump.

If I had it done, I’d probably have it changed at Audi so I had a record of it. That or a damn good independent.

I know that I will get better servicing from our local performance independent, but a car will always be worth more with manufacturer history.

Personal preference really.....

I always change oil and filter in between dealer services.
So the car had new oil every 5k.
My choice.
 
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I changed mine at 1500 miles. I am old school and I just feel better changing oil at that mileage on a new car. This will be the first car that I have owned that will not have the oil changed every 6 months, it will be 12 months, as I purchased a 4 year Audi maintenance plan for a bargain...450 quid.
 
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Personal preference really.....

I always change oil and filter in between dealer services.
So the car had new oil every 5k.
My choice.

Perhaps I will get it done then, I will get some advice from the independent.

This car will be on 10k annual servicing, but the intention is that it is a toy so the mileage will stay low. It’s not used for work, but I bet I will still put 10k on it a year on jollies.
 
I had my oil and filter changed on saturday at 1500 miles before my serious attack on kirkstone pass. On sunday. I will be going to anglesey race track in march and will have another oil change before and after. That will be at about 8k miles, and the following year it will have it twice, before and after the Nurburgring You will only have the car 4 years max probably and do less than probably 30k miles once the novelty wears off. Let it warm for 60 seconds before driving from cold starts, dont seriously hammer it until you’ve done 500 miles but still stick it in sport and have fun. After that have fun dude and drive it however the hell you want. Just do your service a minimum of every 10k/12months. Or extra if you take it on track or whatever.


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I had my oil and filter changed on saturday at 1500 miles before my serious attack on kirkstone pass. On sunday. I will be going to anglesey race track in march and will have another oil change before and after. That will be at about 8k miles, and the following year it will have it twice, before and after the Nurburgring You will only have the car 4 years max probably and do less than probably 30k miles once the novelty wears off. Let it warm for 60 seconds before driving from cold starts, dont seriously hammer it until you’ve done 500 miles but still stick it in sport and have fun. After that have fun dude and drive it however the hell you want. Just do your service a minimum of every 10k/12months. Or extra if you take it on track or whatever.


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how do you have the balls to do a serious attack on kirkstone?! whenever I go up I get at least 3 stray sheep in the road!!
 
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how do you have the balls to do a serious attack on kirkstone?! whenever I go up I get at least 3 stray sheep in the road!!

Because if you dont keep up you become a laughing stock of the workplace! Car or pride ha.

The truth is theirs usually 4-10 cars that go so you just make sure you’re not quickest off the duel carriageway. If you do anything under 150 down it then you probably wont be first off

Kirkstone isnt the scary one, ‘the struggle’ as we call it is the scary one. If you turn left as you get to the top where the pub is and go down that steep ****** the same speed you went up kirkstone thats where it gets worrying, especially when you get air and lose your entire back end on the big crest


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