FrankenAudi threw a real fit tonight :-(

[gokiwi64]

Been running fine , good mpg , starting every time hot or cold. Then tonight sitting in a bit of traffic idle started hunting and got worse until eventually the engine just cut out, no eml displayed. Managed to get it over to the side of the road etc etc, long story short local garage guy has vcds/vagcom (not sure if legit) run the basic scan and it came back with 7 faults (I wasn't present) here is an extract from the log.


Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-BDB.lbl
Part No SW: 022 906 032 CB HW: Bas isX 3
Component: MOTRONIC ME7.1.1 5604
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: AUX7Z0D1FN7077
Coding: 0000178
Shop #: WSC 06435 000 00000
VCID: 4D96B276D44A5E2952-8018

7 Faults Found:
16414 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Heating Circuit
P0030 - 004 - Malfunction / Open Circuit - MIL ON
17755 - Camshaft Position Sensor 2 (G163) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1347 - 002 - Incor. Correl. - MIL ON
17800 - Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 2 (G163)
P1392 - 001 - Open Short to Plus - Intermittent
19598 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1
P3142 - 008 - Signal Implausibly Lean - MIL ON
18847 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1 Voltage too Low / Air Leakage / Sample Error
P2415 - 008 - - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
18025 - Glow Plug Pre-Heat Indicator (K29)
P1617 - 001 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Readiness: 0100 1001

 

[audismart]

16414/P0030/000048 - Ross-Tech Wiki

 

[audismart]

17755/P1347/004935 - Ross-Tech Wiki

 

[gokiwi64]

Big problem I have is that not only do I need two of them , is getting the damn things out and then getting the right ones. Apparently I need 6 pin ones and should have one with a black connector and one with a brown connector.

 

[gokiwi64]

Oh and it turns out the mechanic didn't have the engine running while he did the tests , should he have ?

 

[audismart]

Think your cam belt might have gone mate, so thats a no on the engine running, but you have your codes already stored.

 

[gokiwi64]

V6 has chains ;-)

 

[audismart]

V6 has chains ;-)

Cam chain tensioner, might have made the cam chain jump a cog and thrown the timing out.
Big problem on the TSI from 2008/2011, weak tensioners on the cam chain side. Bends the valves and cam.
Fingers crossed its just the tensioner bud.

 

[gokiwi64]

Are the lambda sensors B1 S1 and B2 S1 actually the same ? - I know they have different coloured connectors but they both have the same satyle connector and the same number of pins.

 

[splbound]

Damn. Such a run of bad luck you are having there. Hope its just a sensor (Lambda or crankshaft position) issue for you and not chain skip.
Timing chain issues in the 3.2 is what keep me up at night.

 

[splbound]

http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_sin...bcategory/906000/part_id/251813/lang/e#sec_12

From the look of it both lambda sensors before cat are 6pin brown colour connector.
Lambda sensors after cat are 4 pin black colour connector.

BDB,BMJ,BUB engines.

 

[splbound]

>>From the look of it both lambda sensors before cat are 6pin brown colour connector.
Sorry, upon further reading they could either be 6pin brown or black so not so clear there.

 

[gokiwi64]

So ....Yesterday mechanic man could find nothing wrong , car started straight away and idled (its usual lumpy idle), did an oil change, flushed the coolant , pulled the various electrical connectors apart, cleaned them and plugged them back in. He drove it home last night and then to mine this morning , I then drove it to work and back (I am a life member of the AA - Alcohol Always !!), the only thing that was found was/is a split vacuum pipe (its quite audible) . So another thing to fix, probably sooner rather than later. I should say its still got the same codes , the only difference is that in VCDS it shows the crank and cam errors as "pending".
Just need to work out best way to fix it.

 

[andyvlw]

Both my lambda sensors are brown in colour on the nearside post and pre Cat.

Also try posting on the http://www.r32oc.com/forum, you may get a bit more feedback on your faults.

This might help
http://www.r32oc.com/topic/225113-r32-timing-chain-checking/

Andy

 

[Whodafunk]

Brown is Bank 2 so pre and post cat sensors will have brown plugs.

To answer your question tho, even though they have different colour plugs both the precast sensors are the same, as are the post cat sensors.

You should concentrate on the faults in the order they appear because the first fault can trigger the others. Also I don't think a failed lambda sensor would cause it to cut out and hunt like that. The car would switch into open loop and use presaved values for the fueling.

Where's your split hose by the way?

Edit: just looking at your faults I'm thinking electrical issues somewhere. Maybe a bad earth?

 

[gokiwi64]

Always throws 1st
16414 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Heating Circuit
P0030 - 004 - Malfunction / Open Circuit - MIL ON

Split vacuum was to the brake booster , 1st split where it goes from flexi to hard and then where the check valve is ....bodged repair for now.

 

[Whodafunk]

You can check your short term fuel trim (bank 33) to see if you cured the vacuum leak. If it's high positive figures at idle you prob still have a vac leak.

In relation to your fault I would suggest faulty sensor or damaged wiring harness. This might help...

 

[Whodafunk]

Oxygen Sensor Heaters, Checking

The following procedure is used to diagnose Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Heater (Z19) for Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) (G39) and Oxygen Sensor (O2S) 2 Heater (Z28) for Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 2 (G108).



¤ When servicing electrical harness connector terminals for the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) (G39), use only gold-plated terminals.
Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required


¤ Multimeter.
¤ Wiring diagram.
Test requirements


¤ The Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Heater (Z19) for Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) (G39) and Oxygen Sensor (O2S) 2 Heater (Z28) for Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 2 (G108) fuses OK.
¤ Battery voltage at least 12.5 volts.
¤ All electrical consumers such as, lights and rear window defroster, switched off.
¤ Vehicles with automatic transmission, shift selector lever into position "P" or "N".
¤ A/C switched off.
¤ Ground (GND) connections between engine/transmission/chassis OK.
¤ Ignition switched off.
Test procedure

• Perform a preliminary check to verify the customers complaint. Refer to => [ General Diagnosis ] See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\General Diagnosis.

Start diagnosis

• Remove the engine cover with air filter.

Checking internal resistance

• Disconnect the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) (G39) electrical harness connector - 2 - or the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 2 (G108) electrical harness connector- 1 -.

• Using a multimeter, check the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) terminals 3 to 4 for an open circuit.

Specified value: 2.5 to 10.0 ohms (at approx. 20°C)

If the specification was not obtained:

• Replace the 2- Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) (G39) or the 1- Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 2 (G108).

If the specification was obtained:

Checking voltage supply

• Using a multimeter, check the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) electrical harness connector terminal 4 to the Fuel Pump (FP) 2 Relay (J49) terminal 2/87 for voltage.

Specified value: Battery voltage.

If the specification was not obtained:

• Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery (+), and Ground (GND).
• Check the electrical harness connector for damage, corrosion, lose or broken terminals.
• If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.

If the specification was obtained:

Checking Ground (GND) activation

If the manufacturers test box is being used. Perform the following step.

• Install the test box.

If the manufacturers test box is not being used. Perform the following step.

• Remove the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) (J220). Refer to => [ Motronic Engine Control Module, Replacing ] See: Description and Operation\Motronic Engine Control Module\Motronic Engine Control Module, Replacing.
• Using a multimeter, check the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) electrical harness connector to the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) (J220) electrical harness connector T121 for an open circuit.

Specified value: 1.5 ohms max.

If the specification was not obtained:

• Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery (+), and Ground (GND).
• Check the electrical harness connector for damage, corrosion, lose or broken terminals.
• If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection.

If no malfunction is detected in the wiring and if the voltage supply was OK:

• Replace the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) (J220). Refer to => [ Motronic Engine Control Module, Replacing ] See: Description and Operation\Motronic Engine Control Module\Motronic Engine Control Module, Replacing.
• Install the engine cover with air filter.

Final procedures

After repair work, the following work steps must be performed in the following sequence:


1. Check the DTC memory. Refer to => [ Diagnostic Mode 03 - Read DTC Memory ] See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Modes 01- 09\Diagnostic Mode 03 - Read DTC Memory.
2. If necessary, erase the DTC memory. Refer to => [ Diagnostic Mode 04 - Erase DTC Memory ] See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Modes 01- 09\Diagnostic Mode 04 - Erase DTC Memory.
3. If the DTC memory was erased, generate readiness code. Refer to => [ Readiness Code ] See: Monitors, Trips, Drive Cycles and Readiness Codes.

 

[gokiwi64]

So brown connector 3.33ohms, black connector open circuit (culprit confirmed), however its the drivers side and thats the basterd that wont budge for love nor 4 letter words !!!!

 

[Whodafunk]

I'll get it off for you, you'll just have to drive to Huddersfield

 

[gokiwi64]

I'll put it in the post.......

 

[gokiwi64]

So an update 2 garages later and sensor still hasnt been changed :-(, now being told that the only way to get it off is by dropping the exhaust and removing the headers at this point I have spent nearly £600 on trying to replace a fcuking sensor - thanks Audi. So guess what its staying busted , from now the plan is to drive it into the ground while saving to replace it (It certainly WONT be a VAG thats for sure).
So I have decided to drop off the forum as I cannot meaningfully contribute anything - I just want to say a HUGE thanks to "Whodafunk" for the help and inspiration to keep trying - Cheers mate it certainly was appreciated.

 

[Whodafunk]

£600????!!! May aswell drive to me and have your lunch out at a posh restaurant. Seriously find a free day and I'm sure I'll do it for you