Defratos said:
how hard was it to take out and replace the TIP? I would of thought it was a
to do since the turbo is soo far down. How'd u do it?
how'd u do it?
p.s. what are those black wires for?
It was a bit of a pain in the ****, but in the end easier than some of the other ones!
The OE TIP is secured to the turbo with a 5mm allen bolt, this needs to be removed from under the car - after that all the fitting is done from the bonnet, except tightening the hose clamp to the turbo, again this needs to be done from under the car.
You need to remove the airbox, MAF, DV, N75, that funny saucer thing whose name eludes me, and generally clear as much space as you can from around the TIP. With the 5mm allen bolt removed you just pull/twist the OE tip free and pull it up through the engine.
Now you've got a nice big whole at the back of the engine you can see down to the turbo inlet - the first thing you notice is a rubber coolant pipe and a solid metal coolant pipe, both running right were you want the new bigger TIP to be
The rubber coolant hose gives enough to be pulled aside but the metal one doesn't. My engine is an AGU, i'd read on other websites that the solid coolant hose was mounted to the cylinder block with an 8mm allen bolt and that loosening this bolt allows it to be moved enough to fit the TIP. Well, that wasn't the cas on mine. No mounting points, it just ran from the front of the engine to the back.
I decided brute force was the only answer and set about forcing a square peg in to a very small round hole. In the end the force of me pushing the TIP down actually bent the metal coolant pipe a little, oops. Fortunatly i don't appear to have damaged it and the room it created allowed the end of the TIP to pop straight on the turbo inlet
All that took about 45mins, so i then proceeded to spend a further 2 hours only fitting half the remaining hoses. By 7pm i was hungry and my hands hurt so i'll attack the rest next weekend.
I did have an idle problem, some of the OE rubber hoses to the N75 were slightly split at their bends, swapping these for new silicone ones appears to have cured the idle issue (so far anyway, touch wood).
I logged the g/s MAF results last night. Unfortunatly i'm not seeing an increase in peak air flow; however, it is flowing more air earlier in the rev range. As this is an increase in area under the curve that means i've freed up more 'usable' power so that's something. It definatly pulls noticeably better on the road so i'm still happy even though my peak power output appears to be the same.
