Vaccum Hose Leak (I think...)

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HansfishS3

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Hi all, was changing my oil today when I noticed a hissing sound in my engine bay...this pipe seems to be cracked and leaking air. Which pipe is it? Is it okay to drive the car with this split?
 

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Ofc will definitely fix asap, but I may need to use the car for a few short journeys in the meantime. What does this vzccum pipe do?
 
...just to be clear, that pipe is not available on its own unless you buy a silicon after market one... most of these can be sorted with a PCV delete (don't 'need' a catch can but it helps)

<tuffty/>
 
all part of the PCV system... have seen a 20hp drop on the dyno for a split one of these

<tuffty/>
 
Ah right okay... thanks seems to make sense. It is safe to delete the PCV system? What are the potential risks of doing so and how can this affect the engine
 
I don't think you can fully delete the PCV system but simplify it i.e. Reduce the potential pipework that can cause leaks, or run it with a catch can. I'm looking at doing this mod in a few weeks time.
 
delete is just a term to describe a process... in this case removing what could be deemed unnecessary PCV pipework...a little ambiguous I know but you could also call it PCV simplification which a little closer to the mark..

No harm in doing it (unless you are a hippy in which case it will destroy bunnies as you drive along and eradicates the polar ice caps turning polar bears into immigrants... )

Early 1.8t's were simpler... no airpump, just a pipe from the inlet mani to a check valve in the main PCV (rubber 'T' on the block breather)... all you are doing is removing the clutter that ends up splitting and leaking which is around £100 to replace with an OE part.

Simplification can be done for the price of a short piece of 19mm ID hose, a couple of clips and something to block the outlet under the inlet (6mm ID silicon blanking cap and a cable tie)

<tuffty/>
 
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PT would you recommend running PCV into a catch can? I know you don't have to, but looking at the horrible mess that people have been catching, I don't really want that going through my engine. Any suggestions on a good baffled catch can too? Seen loads on eBay all look....... Micky mouse. Do you vent to atmosphere too? Sorry to thread Jack hansfishs3
 
S3AMJ said:
PT would you recommend running PCV into a catch can? I know you don't have to, but looking at the horrible mess that people have been catching, I don't really want that going through my engine. Any suggestions on a good baffled catch can too? Seen loads on eBay all look....... Micky mouse. Do you vent to atmosphere too? Sorry to thread Jack hansfishs3
Click to expand...

Its preferable tbh... catches all sorts of yucky stuff... not sure on catch can recommendations as I made mine (modded greddy one) but minimum of 1ltr, 19mm connections...

Venting to atmos is personal preference... if not careful it can smell in the cabin but a decent catch can thats big enough and baffled should be fine reconnecting to the TIP...

Mines vented to atmos... personal choice as I don't want any form of oil getting into the inlet tract... not sure if I am just lucky but only experienced oily smells during the initial running in period while the rings bedded in... its now gone and while there is a hint of a smell outside the car, inside is fine... I don't care what others smell... they don't get to smell if for long ;)

<tuffty/>
 
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Well....just broken down :( opened up the bonnet and the suspect pipe seems to have completely gone....car started running like a dog and brakes were playing up (not sure if related) ....don't wanna risk driving it in this state so awaiting recovery
 
Yeah... will be related... vacuum for brake servo comes off this... another reason to 'simplify'

<tuffty/>
 
audi upgrades
Didn't think it would cause you to break down :/ though I understand the brakes not working.. My breather system was completely split in half when I got mine but car still ran. I fitted a catch can buthave since (today) reverted back to the original breather system to try and help my blue smoke issue. I do have the servo/mani connector (pipe you need) if you want it, my one was still okay on my old system (I think).
 
Car was running v rough...didnt feel comfortable nursing it home..and I had little to no brakes.....would definitely.be interesting in taking that pipe off you as a temp measure until I fit a catch can...pm me :)
 
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<tuffty/> said:
Its preferable tbh... catches all sorts of yucky stuff... not sure on catch can recommendations as I made mine (modded greddy one) but minimum of 1ltr, 19mm connections...

Venting to atmos is personal preference... if not careful it can smell in the cabin but a decent catch can thats big enough and baffled should be fine reconnecting to the TIP...

Mines vented to atmos... personal choice as I don't want any form of oil getting into the inlet tract... not sure if I am just lucky but only experienced oily smells during the initial running in period while the rings bedded in... its now gone and while there is a hint of a smell outside the car, inside is fine... I don't care what others smell... they don't get to smell if for long ;)

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Tuffty, big help :)

@HansfishS3 hope you get that sorted ASAP! Perfect excuse to simplify the PCV :)
 
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Sorted now...pipe changed with aftermarket hose :) Need to look into this PCV simplification ... thanks for all the advise guys...appreciated
 
Right, not sure if this is related, was driving home today and the red oil light came on the dis flashing...luckily was only about 2 miles from home so nursed it back. Could this be related to what happened yesterday? Check oil level and its slightly above maximum, is this okay?

Will scan for fault codes this evening and report back....not having the best of luck these days :(
 
These codes came up...however I think they are all related to yesterdays problem!

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 8N0 906 018 J
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0004
Coding: 10710
Shop #: WSC 66565
VCID: 3803ABE30B4B
WAUZZZ8LZ11000405 AUZ7Z0A1825216
3 Faults Found:
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
P1200 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16514 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Malfunction in Circuit
P0130 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0010 1100
 
right started up the car again briefly...no light came no warnings...not going to use the car till I get this sorted...is it a possbility that the oil light is only coming on when the engine is under high load because the requested oil pressure is not achieved?
 
What material is blocking it? Good you found the problem and also your engine is fine. I'm interested what sort of mileage has your engine has covered?
 
Well...mainly bits of plastic and metal..however there was a lot of carbon deposits and coked up ***** in general. Here's a picture of what came out (white spots are from paint brush bristle)...and that wasn't pretty...this wasn't even a proper clean. I think the previous owner must have used the wrong oil which overheated and caused the coking. The sump has also got lots of deposits aswell...will give this a good clean...
 

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