Right, a plan has been hatched. There was just too much uncertainty on the ebay tensions, some people had good experiences, some had bad. I've spent alot of time looking into it and noone could give a definate answer on a credible supplier, so with that doubt i had no choice but to go Genuine TPS. i only want to do this once so i got the tensioner, chain, 2x cam seals and a tensioner gasket, on trade = £700. yes seven-****ing-hundred! and thats just one head.
I still dont know 100% that my inlet valves are ok. the problem I've had seems very common (although I'd never heard of it) and most have been run for a while with no guides, proper rogered tensioner and still been ok. there has been a couple of threads where bent valves have happened but seems quite rare (but you know how lucky i seem to be lately
)
the plan of action is to leave the engine all intact, cambelt wise and oil wise, so when i get the new tensioner i can slot it in, with the old chain still on the exhaust cam, and time it up with the inlet cam refitted, then do a proper comression test on the engine, all 8 cylinders, and hopefully they will be ok.
If they are ok then i'll whip the cambelt off, cams out, fit the new tensioner, new chain, and new cam seals and time everything back in properly. i managed to find a second hand locking kit so thats on its way so will be able to time the cambelt in the dealer way. while the exhaust cam is out I'll be able to see better if any of the broken cam guide is down the oil return.
if the valves are dead then I'm going on holiday for a bit......
I found out from DGSdale (who has been very helpfull with the torque setting and procedures) that the baffle plate around the oil pump comes off easily, so whipped that off to look for any more valve guide
i could see right up to the back of the drain pan and felt up all round and no sign of any more pieces floating about there. i was going to clean the strainer while in here, but it was spotless, a credit to the previous owners and regular quality oil changes, the whole inside of the engine is clean really.
next was to drill out those ******* front panel bolts, i always have trouble with these being ****ing tight of all the A4s ive stripped too. i found out why when i got the heads out, they're striated of the back of the bolt head, and on the washers, so they lock on
once the heads were off the threads were only finger tight, not even stiff.
stuck the long bolts back in
and folded the front back off
This isnt needed to do the chain, but im still chasing that water leak
at least the viscous came off nice and easy this time
and stripped out
to my supprise under the thermostat i had just replaced was completely dry
but it was still coming out the bottom of the alternator, quite alot! when i looked closer the alternator bracket is actually oil cooler and oil filter housing all built into one
and covered in new coolant
and i actually found the leak, its still leaking as the blocks still full of water as the thermostat is closed. its the join between the block waterway and this oil cooler
i'm sure its coming from the '13' link pipe on the right hand side, probably the o-rings '12'
i just hope to god i can get this out without having to drop the engine! its a heffing great unit and its right against the chassis leg.
i've left it on for now as i want to keep the oil system complete to do the compression test and not fill all the bearing up with air.
one thing i did want to check was the passenger side tensioner, in every thread ive read its always been bank 1 that fails for some reason and rarely bank2. but wanted to check it
it looks as good a new, no cracks and not alot of ware
when i take the cambelt off i think i will remove this side too just to be sure and check the lower guide, but it looks ok, thank ****.
the new bits should be in tomorrow and i can see what my money gets me...