Hard Wire Dash Cam

It's the front to back cable that causes radio interference, not the power one.
 
I think the problem was with the cable which connects the front and rear camera together. It blocked out some DAB signals hence interfering with radio stations.
It's widely known to be a problem however I'm not sure if Blackvue have rectified that problem with a newer cable.
 
Ah, thanks for explanation. Didn't mean to sound that I was dissing the Blackvues!
 
audi upgrades
I don't have a Blackvue, I will be having a set up of 2 Mobius dash cams which record at a much higher bit rate. Also much much cheaper and highly rated :D
 
glospete said:
As previously reported I have just bought a Transcend DrivePro 200 also and used it for the first time today. I bought the Transcend suction mount as I didn't fancy using the stick on version. I took the power lead (temporarily) behind the sunshade, down the windscreen edge into the glove box and into the 12v socket. This was just to see what it was like before I committed to more permanent wiring. Contrary to people with Blackvues (I think that's the model) there is no interference on the radio in either DAB or FM and whilst I haven't downloaded the files yet I'm impressed. I switched off the G-sensor (or was the G-Spot!) as received wisdom is that it switches itself too often what with the state of our roads. The emergency button is sufficient as a press on that and the DrivePro records data 10 seconds before and 50 seconds after an event occurs (total 1 minute). The DrivePro can save up to 15 emergency video files and these files are protected from being overwritten.

I have also switched off the sound recording as I don't want a record of me cursing the stupid driving of my fellow motorists!!

I've set the recording duration to 3 minutes for no other reason that it was in the middle of the 3 options 1, 3 and 5 minutes. Has anyone any opinions as to which is best and why?

So, it gets my vote but I'd like to neaten up the wiring and get rid of the chrome lens surround. Perhaps a Matt black wrap would make it less noticeable? Any ideas where to buy?
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Excellent, so now all you need to do is a nice write up with loads of pics ready for when mine arrives ( tomorrow ) and the car ( by this weekend ).

The 1,3,5 minute thing is just so you can quickly find and save the footage. I'd say 3 is about right, not sure what the lag time is ( if any between clips ).

I was going to power mine from the glove box as didn't want a cable going into the cigarette lighter, that's for my Audi torch.

Got any pics of where its installed, I was going to mount mine behind the mirror if possible.
 
The Challinor said:
Excellent, so now all you need to do is a nice write up with loads of pics ready for when mine arrives ( tomorrow ) and the car ( by this weekend ).

The 1,3,5 minute thing is just so you can quickly find and save the footage. I'd say 3 is about right, not sure what the lag time is ( if any between clips ).

I was going to power mine from the glove box as didn't want a cable going into the cigarette lighter, that's for my Audi torch.

Got any pics of where its installed, I was going to mount mine behind the mirror if possible.
Click to expand...

Been away working at the NEC so only just seen your post. Camera worked fine on the journey up and back. No pictures yet on the installation as I'm waiting for Hurricane Gonzalo to subside before I venture outside! I have ordered some matt black wrap samples as the only disappointing thing about the DrivePro 200 is the chrome lens ring. It makes it very visible from outside so I plan to "wrap" the lens surround. I'll let you know how it turns out when I get the wrap installed. I have also ordered a 12V to mini-USB 5V conversion cable so I can hard wire the unit into my fuse box using one of these piggyback fuse connectors.
 
glospete said:
Been away working at the NEC so only just seen your post. Camera worked fine on the journey up and back. No pictures yet on the installation as I'm waiting for Hurricane Gonzalo to subside before I venture outside! I have ordered some matt black wrap samples as the only disappointing thing about the DrivePro 200 is the chrome lens ring. It makes it very visible from outside so I plan to "wrap" the lens surround. I'll let you know how it turns out when I get the wrap installed. I have also ordered a 12V to mini-USB 5V conversion cable so I can hard wire the unit into my fuse box using one of these piggyback fuse connectors.
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Have you got a link as I've been too interested in my car that dash cam has been sitting here for a week now haha
 
If you use a tap-a-fuse with that cable, does the fuse you piggyback off have to be 3A+3A, or can you piggyback off a 20A + 3A?
 
Liquidfusion-S3 said:
If you use a tap-a-fuse with that cable, does the fuse you piggyback off have to be 3A+3A, or can you piggyback off a 20A + 3A?
Click to expand...

You can mix amperages, it takes the original fuse plus a new one
 
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So I fitted my hard-wired dash cam at the weekend. (and yes, I have looked through the other threads about fuses!). I've taken the feed for it from fuse 40, with a piggy back connector and all is working fine - well to a point that is. The camera powers up as soon as the ignition becomes live, which is what I want. The camera stays on if I come to a junction and the stop-start kicks in - which is again what I want, but as soon as I hit the throttle to move away and the engine wstrats up, the feed to the camera is dropped for a very short time (milliseconds I suspect) and the camera reboots. It would appear that supply to fuse 40 is being interrupted briefly when starting. It might be specific to this camera (Trancend DrivePro 200) which doesn't have an internal battery?

Now many of the other ign only systems don't show this brief interruption, and you'd be hard pressed to notice it on the cigar lighter, if it was being used at the time, however it is annoying! I'm minded that I could strap a capacitor across the input which might hold the camera on over that time, but the sensible option is a better fuse selection.

Anyone got any other options, or come across the problem?

Thanks Nimbus
 
That's a good point you've brought up there, like you said maybe a better fuse selection?
What is it fused to at the moment? How about moving it to something like the rear windscreen which would stay on even if stop/start kicks in.

Since you've already done all the hard work, it wouldn't take you more than 5 minutes to move the fuse
 
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As I've semi-permanently disconnected my Stop/Start I don't have the problem with my Transcend unit so unfortunately cannot help. I still have to wire the feed in permanently so at this moment the unit works perfectly - I'm really impressed with the quality and using the accessory suction mount it is rock solid.
 
Liquidfusion-S3 said:
That's a good point you've brought up there, like you said maybe a better fuse selection?
What is it fused to at the moment? How about moving it to something like the rear windscreen which would stay on even if stop/start kicks in.

Since you've already done all the hard work, it wouldn't take you more than 5 minutes to move the fuse
Click to expand...


Now that's a good idea - didn't think of rear screen heater. Cheers.
 
Nimbus265 said:
So I fitted my hard-wired dash cam at the weekend. (and yes, I have looked through the other threads about fuses!). I've taken the feed for it from fuse 40, with a piggy back connector and all is working fine - well to a point that is. The camera powers up as soon as the ignition becomes live, which is what I want. The camera stays on if I come to a junction and the stop-start kicks in - which is again what I want, but as soon as I hit the throttle to move away and the engine wstrats up, the feed to the camera is dropped for a very short time (milliseconds I suspect) and the camera reboots. It would appear that supply to fuse 40 is being interrupted briefly when starting. It might be specific to this camera (Trancend DrivePro 200) which doesn't have an internal battery?

Now many of the other ign only systems don't show this brief interruption, and you'd be hard pressed to notice it on the cigar lighter, if it was being used at the time, however it is annoying! I'm minded that I could strap a capacitor across the input which might hold the camera on over that time, but the sensible option is a better fuse selection.

Anyone got any other options, or come across the problem?

Thanks Nimbus
Click to expand...

I get the same (well, similar - mine actually cuts the power when the engine is off and starts again when the engine kicks in). I suspect this is just a case of picking which fuse to piggy back from - I'm going to have a play at the weekend. Mine stays off while the engine is off, so it's not just a short term thing. It also turns off when you unlock the car, but comes back on with ignition - very strange! If you catch it in time (ie, start the engine quickly enough) it's not a problem though.

It sounds like my problem might be solved by switching to fuse 40, as the Blackvue does have a small internal battery which keeps it going for a few seconds (presumably so if the power is cut in an accident it still records for a short while) - enough to survive a momentary cut in power anyway.

I did solve my problem of the unit randomly failing and needing a reboot before it would do anything though - turns out when it says it doesn't support a 64gb card, it really means it! The 32 I have in there now works perfectly. I had never noticed the stop/start thing or the ignition thing before because I turned all the voice alerts off - but I currently have the all on (other than the event beep) so I can diagnose issues and work out what is happening.
 
Can anyone please post a total list of items that need to be purchased for both front and rear camera's? Been reading through the threads with my confused face. Still waiting on car but might as well start collecting all the bits.
 
Well... there's no set list really, entirely depends what you want to do! I use rubber grommets on mine to make the cable entry look really neat for example, but you don't NEED them.
 
I checked this evening - I'm using fuse F44 (Four wheel drive), which isn't present in my car/fusebox, so I just used it.

I guess I'll have to investigate a different one to use! The one next to it is for electric seat adjustment apparently, but I'm not sure the labelling is correct as the manual (p 252 I think) says that it should be a circuit breaker, but a different function (washers system) is labelled as the circuit breaker in that area.
 
glospete said:
As I've semi-permanently disconnected my Stop/Start I don't have the problem with my Transcend unit so unfortunately cannot help. I still have to wire the feed in permanently so at this moment the unit works perfectly - I'm really impressed with the quality and using the accessory suction mount it is rock solid.
Click to expand...

How big is the suction mount when compared with the standard mount?
 
cemerson said:
I checked this evening - I'm using fuse F44 (Four wheel drive), which isn't present in my car/fusebox, so I just used it.

I guess I'll have to investigate a different one to use! The one next to it is for electric seat adjustment apparently, but I'm not sure the labelling is correct as the manual (p 252 I think) says that it should be a circuit breaker, but a different function (washers system) is labelled as the circuit breaker in that area.
Click to expand...

I'm getting grumpy now! I've tried the fuses for the rear wipers and the rear screen heater and it still cuts out. It's fine after the engine stops on stop-start, but in that brief internal when the engine restarts it cuts out and reboots. Anyone managed to pick a fuse which doesn't do this?

I was thinking of the MMI fuse?
 
Maybe ther rear wipers and heaters also cut out when start/stop cuts in and out, MMI you will know for sure that it won't cut out as MMI is always on.
Failing that, spend £30 buying a cable and disable start/stop if you don't like it.
 
I have the cable and could disable stop start - but i do use it occasionally
 
I piggy backed the cigarette lighter fuse.

My camera doesn't cut out at all for S/S.

But then again I don't have a Transcend 200.

I have a Janus HD.
 
I use the cigarette lighter for the switched supply. I could use the permanent one as well but I'll have to modify the fuse holder to do that. I was thinking MMI too, but I've yet to try switching the fuse.
 
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