Hi All, I know I'm late to the party on this thread but is this BMK engine only with the tensioner fault or does the ASB also suffer. I have no noise yet at 138k miles but would like to fix a problem if I can afford to before its an issue.
Phew, that's a relief!
- Thread starter EddyP
- Start date
Sorry to bring up an old post but I think I have something similar to you guys but a little later on....
Anyone close to bedfordshire UK help a brother out?
Was driving fine the night before. The next morning the car sounds like a tractor and there's no revs!!
Got an audi tech to check errors but none at all. I have come to the conclusion there is a mechanical fault. Possibly timing chain has jumped a teeth or 2
Has this ever happened to anyone else? There's also loads of white smoke coming from the exhaust which smells of unburnt fuel. Please check YouTube vid for the noise it's making and also staking quite violently.
Only revs a little when warmed up 90'c and also hesitates when put in gear (500-600 rpm)
Can anyone shed some light please
Anyone close to bedfordshire UK help a brother out?
Was driving fine the night before. The next morning the car sounds like a tractor and there's no revs!!
Got an audi tech to check errors but none at all. I have come to the conclusion there is a mechanical fault. Possibly timing chain has jumped a teeth or 2
Has this ever happened to anyone else? There's also loads of white smoke coming from the exhaust which smells of unburnt fuel. Please check YouTube vid for the noise it's making and also staking quite violently.
Only revs a little when warmed up 90'c and also hesitates when put in gear (500-600 rpm)
Can anyone shed some light please
Hi there I'm in Cambs, sorry to hear about your fault. There is a garage in st Neots which quoted me 1400 all in for cam chain replacement. For the level of work it seems fair given the cost of a cam chain kit. I should be able to get the details if you need it if you think it's that.
Another mechanic is saying he has seen an simple air flow sensor act like the way my car is doing. And also egr being blocked could make it act like that? I will start here then move onto the serious bits..
Thought it was only but fair I sign up to this magnificent forum after learning so much!
My A4 Avant is an early 2005 with no DPF from manufacture! She has 110K miles with a REVO map. Owner for only 6 weeks thus far, I didn't realise the rattle until the next morning on a cold start after purchase!!! Cheeky.
Carried out this task after purchasing a timing kit and then locking the cam and crank in place, and guess what... No more rattle
I bought the Tensioner, Gasket and 3 Bolts as mentioned earlier in this thread for 205.16 from my local Audi garage in Norwich.
All went smoothly, just be careful when removing the old Tensioner, the piston and spring fell out and almost went into the lower cam cover!!!
Some pics to show my progress Below highlights Bank 1
Cam Locking Pin in place and old Tensioner removed
Old tired Tensioner AO57 109 218 G and new one AO57 109 218 K ready to go in
All Fitted
I took this opportunity to fully clean out the Air Box, including the little Pre-Filter that was fully clogged up.
Whilst here, it may seem scary but I also cleaned and checked the turbo shaft for excessive play!!! All was well.
Please feel free to ask any questions and a big thanks to all above for their contributions and making this possible.
Curtis
My A4 Avant is an early 2005 with no DPF from manufacture! She has 110K miles with a REVO map. Owner for only 6 weeks thus far, I didn't realise the rattle until the next morning on a cold start after purchase!!! Cheeky.
Carried out this task after purchasing a timing kit and then locking the cam and crank in place, and guess what... No more rattle
I bought the Tensioner, Gasket and 3 Bolts as mentioned earlier in this thread for 205.16 from my local Audi garage in Norwich.
All went smoothly, just be careful when removing the old Tensioner, the piston and spring fell out and almost went into the lower cam cover!!!
Some pics to show my progress
Below highlights Bank 1
Cam Locking Pin in place and old Tensioner removed
Old tired Tensioner AO57 109 218 G and new one AO57 109 218 K ready to go in
All Fitted
I took this opportunity to fully clean out the Air Box, including the little Pre-Filter that was fully clogged up.
Whilst here, it may seem scary but I also cleaned and checked the turbo shaft for excessive play!!! All was well.
Please feel free to ask any questions and a big thanks to all above for their contributions and making this possible.
Curtis
Good info, I didn't know this could be done.
So if the K is the upgrade to the G which is fitted in the ASB?
And is it always bank 1 that fails?
So if the K is the upgrade to the G which is fitted in the ASB?
And is it always bank 1 that fails?
Took me all day to do however, from 8am till 5pm, but I did take my time and do a few other things whilst there.
The BKN and ASB both use the same tensioners yes, as per the diagram attached. The K seem the be the latest update.
It does seem to be Bank 1 (Drivers side) that fails prematurely. I believe this is due to this tensioner taking up all the slack whilst the engine is off.
The BKN and ASB both use the same tensioners yes, as per the diagram attached
. The K seem the be the latest update.It does seem to be Bank 1 (Drivers side) that fails prematurely. I believe this is due to this tensioner taking up all the slack whilst the engine is off.
Hi,
Can anyone maybe repost the pictures in this DIY? I’m looking to replace my tensioner soon.
And does this procedure also work on 2014 CDUD tdi’s?
Thanks in advance!
Can anyone maybe repost the pictures in this DIY? I’m looking to replace my tensioner soon.
And does this procedure also work on 2014 CDUD tdi’s?
Thanks in advance!
I would also like to know if this is the same procedure on the CDUD Engine. Updated pics would be fab!
My brother has this this problem when warm then left for 10 mins but not when cold, from what I can see the CDUD is similar to the CRCA and by the looks of it there's only one tensioner and its next to the starter motor so an engine out job
Guys - just to confirm, the chains & tensioners are at the back of the engine so on the A6 3.0TDI you're working down the back between engine & bulkhead ?
Great thread BTW, good work by all the contributors.
Great thread BTW, good work by all the contributors.
Hi. Any chance of the pictures of the timing chain rattle fix? ThanksSo heres a brief guide to doing this job, as you won't find much about doing it from above in the workshop guide.
Remove engine cover
Remove air box (plastic rivet into inner wing, then rubber clips underneath, 2 screws by front grill for air duct to filter assembly)
When you have the grill to air box duct out, take out the little filter that's inside it and clean it out, I found a LOT of leaves and general crap in mine.
Undo the fuel filter mounts then cable tie the filter to one of the front injector pipes to get it out the way.
Remove the filter bracket form the bulkhead, 3 very odd nuts, 8mm.
I then took the intake pipework off the turbo because it was a bit in the way and covered in crap, there's two allen bolts holding it to the turbo, undo these and then just pull it off, it's quite a tight fit as it's a rubber pipe.
Next pull the brake servo vacuum pipe out of the rubber fitting on the bulkhead, it's quite stiff but will come off.
Then you need to remove the vacuum pump off the back of the cam cover, all of the torx bolts are T30s.
This is the selection of different bits that I used:
Once the vac pump is off, put that out the way and start working through the bolts holding the cam chain cover on.
First off, go for the one that's holding the black pipe which goes back under the car somewhere, to help you want to undo the small bolt on a bracket near the turbo on this pipe.
Once you have the pipe undone, put the bolt from it separate as it's a different length to the cam chain cover ones and you don't want to mix them up.
The lower horizontal bolts are the most difficult to undo, they're a bit awkward to get to, this is where the torx allen key will come in most useful.
Once you've got the cover off carefully remove the gasket too.
Then roll up some paper towel and put it in the gap between the lower cover and the cam chain, this will be useful for when you drop the bolts later on that hold the tensioner on and stop them going down into the engine, which if you do you'll cry.
Now you need to lock the engine.
To do this you need this kit:
There are three tools from the kit you need, one is the pin that locks the cam sprocket, one locks the crank, and the other is used to turn the crank pulley.
Jack the car up, and remove the under trays, look behind the sump, between the cross member and anti roll bar, on the drivers side, you will see a bung with an allen key drive, undo it, a little oil will come out but not much, a rag can catch it.
Now you need to turn the engine to TDC, this is the tricky bit, I had the GF watching the cam sprocket and trying to insert the locking pin as I turned it over.
This is what you're aiming for
The cam locking tool can go in in one position when it's not quite TDC, then you turn it 90 degrees and it locks at TDC.
There's a more thorough guide to do this in the workshop manual.
Once you've got the engine locked, then undo the bolts holding the tensioner in place, these are damn tight, you will need to use a bit of tube or a deep socket on your torx allen key to get them undone, be very careful not to let the torx bit slip and round the bolt, if you do, you'll never get them out.
The old one is a bit tricky to get out because of where the cam locking tool is, but there's a few bits that require christmas Chinese puzzle thinking, you'll find this getting the cam chain cover off too.
Then it's time to install the new tensioner, it's a bit of a fiddle to get it in-between the chains, so take your time and get it right, don't force it, make sure you lift the chain over the ridges on the guides.
You are supposed to renew the bolts that hold the tensioner on according to the workshop manual, I didn't as I didn't realise this, for the price of a few bolts I probably would do it. You should also renew the gasket but TPS provided me the wrong one so I had to reuse the original.
To do all this I throughly cleaned up all the surfaces, which is a bit tricky on the engine, whatever you do, do NOT drop bits of the original sealant into the engine, it could block oil ways in the block and cause all sorts of damage. Very carefully use a stanley knife blade and a pair of long nose pliers to pull all the old sealant off the lower surface, then degrease it.
Clean up the cam chain cover and degrease, if you're reusing the gasket, use a very good quality sealant on the cover, I used some that I had left from building a Volvo T5 engine, they use it for sealing the block together so it's pretty good stuff, but a decent loctite instant gasket would be good too, the original sealant seemed to be a type of silicone.
Smear a very thin layer of sealant on all the surfaces, but on the lower surface you need a bead about 3mm thick, put it in the groove on the cover.
Obviously remove the cam locking tool, then install the cover and slowly start putting everything back together, as haynes would say, replacement is the reverse of removal
Don't forget to take the crank locking tool out before you try to start it, or forget to take your ratchet off the crank pulley.
Good luck
Hello, I'm about to replace the right hand tensioner on my A4 B7 2006. I've got as far as removing all the cam cover bolts and just about to remove the cover. Before I do, can someone confirm that the cam and crank definitely need to be locked for a tensioner swap (to 057109218K)? The chain is not coming off, so I cannot see anything moving or slipping when the old tensioner is removed. I realise that the recommendation is to lock the cam, but is it really necessary, and what do I risk by not doing so?
Thanks in advance.
Hello,
How did your job go?
Just to be clear, did you change the drivers or passengers side tensioner?
Did you lock the crank or cam? Did you take any pictures by chance?
-honeypot
I bought both (genuine Audi from LLL Parts) and fully intended on changing both. However, the left side proved too difficult as access was a nightmare, even after removing the turbo. I replaced the turbo core (Mellett) and the VNT actuator at the same time, so it was off anyway. If I could have removed the exhaust, including cat, I would have had room. I managed to get the cover off and saw that the tensioner was in good condition, so I just put the cover back on with a new gasket and sealant. A special T30 mini tool was required due to the poor access. I think it's what people use for racing bike maintenance.
The right hand side was much easier, although getting the vacuum pump off was a pain on my A4 B7, as the lower T30 bolt is hard to get to. Yes I locked the cam and the crank to be on the safe side, although I'm fairly confident that simply changing the tensioner would not have budged anything. Changing the chain would be a different matter. It went well and at least I changed the one which seems to cause most trouble. Never again.......hopefully!!