S3 lost torque

[Imola]

Hi all

My 2003 (facelift model) S3 has been chipped using One Click for the past 7 years or so, and has been awesome. It had a great torque kick low down around 2500 rpm, then really set off around 3500.

Over the past couple of months it has lost that low end kick and really only pulls hard from 4500 - feels more like the standard engine.

I have tried the one click to re-download the chipped map, but no difference. I tried this as the car had some work done earlier this year (none on the engine) and it might be the case that the lower torque was evident after this work (work not done by an audi dealer, but our local village garage that have looked after it for years)

The car also had developed a sort of 'stutter' around 3000-3500ish when accelerating moderately in 4th or 5th and i cleaned the MAF which has helped this.

I reckon the car is down around 1s to 1.5s on 0-60 too

Any ideas?

 

[<tuffty/>]

High ambient heat and high intake temps will reduce torque as the ECU pulls timing out when IAT's hit 30 degrees... would need to check for fault codes and do some logging too

The map won't have changed in the time you have had it but mechanically the engine will have..

Could be down to poorly turbo, boost leaks etc too.... first port of call is scan for fault codes, check all pipes for leaks, splits etc (smoke test would be best here) and log for airflow, boost and timing in VCDS

Process of elimination...

<tuffty/>

 

[Imola]

Thanks for the help

How do I log for fault codes? What kit do i need?

Also, not sure what a smoke test is?

The drop in torque was pretty much noticed over a few days, so not gradual wear and tear - my daughter even commented that it felt like a different car when we were out in it

Sorry, I am not a car tinkerer, although I am a design engineer and very practical

thanks

 

[<tuffty/>]

You will need to get yourself a copy of VCDS lite and an ebay lead... info and links in here..
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-...-help-please-read-before-posting-updated.html

Sounds like its in limp mode maybe if its dropped off suddenly... any dash lights?

<tuffty/>

 

[jojo]

If you are still using your original MAF sensor, maybe it's due to be replaced?

 

[Imola]

Thanks

The MAF is original and the car is now 94000 miles (72000 of them chipped). Maybe it is time for a new MAF.

No dash lights and when I say it has dropped off suddenly, I mean the low end kick in the back (torque after chipping)was there a few months ago and sort of disappeared, not a sudden killing of power as I accelerate. It still does 6s 0-60 whereas it used to do 5.2s last time i checked (a few years ago).

It is the kick in the back at 2500 that is missing and possibly a little top end power, although it is hard to tell at the top end when the thing is so fast in the first place

 

[<tuffty/>]

Grab a copy of VCDS and a cheap eaby lead and scan for fault codes in the first instance dude... post up the results... info on where to get the lead and VCDS is in the linkI posted as is a link to Ross Techs fault code wiki as the lite version gives the codes but no all the descriptions...

Post up the results and we can go from there...

Another thing to try to test the MAF is to unplug it and see how the car drives... they normally drive better unplugged if the MAF is on its way out...

<tuffty/>

 

[jojo]

MAF sensors fail slowly that you don't really notice it. The loss of torque and spluttering are symptoms of a faulty MAF sensor, but it could also be a perished hose also, causing a boost leak, with the mileage and age.

 

[Imola]

You guys are a real help!! Thanks

I ordered a lead off ebay and it is due Tuesday. Also downloaded the software and found a PC laptop to install it on (I use a Mac these days but have loads of computers lying around the place - bit of an engineering geek and employed to write code amongst other things).

Loads to read on the link in the mean time Looks very useful

I'll try disconnecting the MAF and see if that gives me the 'kick' in the mean time and look for splits etc.

 

[thegoal007]

Reading your first post reminded me of the exact same feeling I use to get (surge of power from about 2.5K and taking off over 3.5K) for about year of driving my car , and then at some point in time all changed. No surge of power. Although the BIG difference was my car is standard !
Took it to a garage who road tested it and didn't feel there were any problems. I actually thought I was driving a non turbo car as I felt no surge just gradual increase in power throughout the Revs. I was told Turbo definitely working and is fast enough. Second opinion revealed the same - turbo working just fine.
To this date I'v just lived with , that was about 5 years ago.
I never timed my 0-60 speeds.

 

[Imola]

Hi all

An update

I have the lead, but it has been dark when I got home from work, so not managed to try and figure out error codes yet

However, i disconnected the MAF and she is back!! Lovely dollops of torque followed by warp speed acceleration Feels like a stage 2 tuned S3 again, rather than one with less than standard power.

So, I need a new MAF sensor. Audi want £125 + £50+vat deposit until old one returned.
Local TPS is even more! A lot more

Anyone tried these?
NEW Air flow mass meter sensor AFM MAF 1yr warranty,nextday delivery F00C2G2063 | eBay


Or know of a good replacement for the defunct VAG Parts

 

[kwistof]

IMO sensors should only be replaced with the genuine items, as I've found alot of the ebay/cheaper versions to fail quickly or not fit as intended.

So TPS/Audi are your best bet really for a genuine brand new Bosch MAF. You have definitely had a good innings with your original unit

I don't even really trust getting one from Euro Car Parts or ebay tbh after a few people were having issues earlier this year -

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/191759-maf-related-weirdness-advice-please.html

 

[Imola]

Anyone else had bad experiences with non-bosch MAF?

I connected the laptop yesterday and it gave me two fault codes, one was an intermittent central locking code - something about pressures.
The other, the MAF sensor.

Pretty chuffed as it all seems OK once i buy a new one

Probably ned to register my shareware software as it seemed to say that it couldn't report all fault codes unless I paid my $99

 

[<tuffty/>]

...Probably ned to register my shareware software as it seemed to say that it couldn't report all fault codes unless I paid my $99

It will show the codes but not the descriptions IIRC... a link to what the codes are is in the FAQ thread (the before posting link at the top of the FAQ thread)

<tuffty/>