I'm at my whitts end!!!

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Bigsmalls12

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Hey guys I'm new here so hello and all that!

Any advice would be much appreciated and whoever diagnoses this correctly I will personally post you £50 notes!

REG - Y946 XGA
Audi A4 2.0 petrol

So I bought this car 3 weeks ago to have driven it twice after always wanting an a4!

Drove it back from where I bought it and it was overheating (going past the half way) and resivour was steaming etc , so I let a friend take it to his garage(reputable or not) is another matter! I got it back.. It won't go past 90 to overheat but the needle will drop whilst it's at normal temp.. Then back to normal temp.. The resivour is still getting very hot, the fan won't kick in unless I turn heaters on and there is also NO Hot air coming through vents

Help me PLEASE
 
Sounds like they have just removed the thermostat. Could be just needs a new thermostat but possibly the impellor on the waterpump may have split. Coomon thing on older cars, they have a plastic impellor and it splits resulting in no coolant flow.
They may not have bled all the air from the system hence no heat in the cabin
 
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Thank you for the input desertstorm! I have a video I'm trying to upload but having a few probs haha! Like I said whoever is right I will post out £50!
 
Do you know what the garage did?The res tank will get hot but is it still steaming?Does seem like a stat if it wont hold 90 and no heater but that could be a blocked matrix
 
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The hose I touch in video is very hot this video is after 10 minutes
 
Mike B said:
Do you know what the garage did?The res tank will get hot but is it still steaming?Does seem like a stat if it wont hold 90 and no heater but that could be a blocked matrix
Click to expand...

Still steaming and bubbling yes my friend
 
Why are you running it with the cap off?The cooling system cannot function unless its sealed and pressurised.Thats why its bubbling cos its boiling at low pressure.Also the res seems to be overfull and needs to way below max when cold.Does the rad fan kick in cos I didnt hear it.The last one on here with similar found the rad sensor was faulty
 
Could also be a cracked cylinder head , blown head gasket , blocked radiator, Collapsed or restricted coolant pipe, blocked exhaust / cat , faulty coolant cap. Think that covers everything. Just send me the money that must cover most of the possible causes.
If the water pump is faulty the water won't be moving in the system and will boil locally causing a lot of air. Also could be dues to a blown head gasket. If it's bubbling like that when it's cold it's likely to be a cracked head or blown head gasket.
 
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My money is on a warped cylinder head,
The damage is done, need to replace or get it skimmed imo
I got flash backs from my xr2 days watching that which all stemmed I believe from a nackered water pump, I would top up with water, which in itself is no good and compounded the problem.
I would get a compression test done and take it from there personally.
But my guess is, warped head, which usually involves a skim or new head, a new head gasket, water pump and thermostat and most importantly after the hardware is sorted, proper coolant
 
Head gasket without a doubt. The pipe is hot because it now contains steam not water. If you rev the engine the bubbling in the coolant reservoir will increase.
Cylinder head off and skimmed, new head gasket and head bolts, timing belt kit and water pump and finally a new thermostat, G13 coolant, job done.
 
Have you looked in the oil filler cap?
It can gunk up with "mayo" proving the HG/warped head theory...

Mac
 
Whats the temp over all the hoses inc heater hoses and what about the rad top to bottom, are all those things similar temp to touch?
 
Rad is slightly cooler halfway.. Top hose is very hot including the return, lower hose is colder though from expansion tank
 
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If you have checked the rad fan then try back flushing the system with a hose.Could be crud in the rad but this often goes hard and wont move so that means a new rad
 
The fan won't come on unless I turn heaters on inside the car but then there is also no hot air, like previously mentioned, lower hose into rad is also lukewarm compared to the rest of the system
 
The rad fan has nothing to do with the heater blower and should function when the sensor in the rad kicks in.If it fails ,which they do, then it quickly overheats.
 
Thats the aircon fan not the coolant rad one .There are 2.The coolant one has its own temp sensor which cuts in when it gets too hot
 
Yeah i understand mike but the op said the fan does not come until he switches heater on , i was just stating why the fan came on with heaters, to me it sounds like a massive air lock, id start by correctly bleeding the system before worrying about h/g etc yet.
 
Agreed Darran but he still hasnt said whether the rad fan is OK.No heat might be the matrix is blocked solid.
 
Very similar to that I experienced just after the w/pump and timing belt was changed. Turned out that I also had a fault temp sender (the one at the back of the cylinder head) - that was what was causing the radiator fan problems. (Well, in my case, it was on constantly)

Other issue was that the pressure cap sealing ring had failed, which of course allowed coolant overtemp as it boiled as it wasn't pressurised. Seemingly fresh coolant has a way of finding any weaknesses. A new cap was fitted, which still didn't solve the problem but replacing the header tank proved to be the fix. Oh, and unless the system has been properly bled, that'll almost certainly cause an airlock. We bled the heater matrix by the simple expedient of pulling the (top, iirc) hose back until the bleed hole was clear of the pipe - and then the engine was bled by opening the bleed point on the metal pipe running over the top of the engine. It also helps to have the header tank raised a bit while doing this btw. That's simple - just remove bolt and lift it up. All simple things, worth trying before you cut your wrists thinking it's the head, or a failed pump. Good luck. Oh, and yes, it's going to boil and overflow if you leave the cap off!
 
Thanks guys for all the awesome replies.. Still not fixed I'm going to try a final bleed on the system before I venture into water pumps and the rad fan I have not noticed kick in unless I use the blowers
 
When I bled the other day after a while water was spraying up out the bleed hole almost like a fountain lol which is steering me away from a pump issue?
 
Heater - pull back top heater hose where it goes into the bulkhead until the small hole in the pipe clears the tube. The bleed nipple for the engine itself is on the metal pipe over the top of the engine. (Take the plastic trim cover off - then you'll see it). Have you got a Haynes? pm me your email if not and I'll see about scanning the relevant bits for you.
 
I did this last night, going to repeat as i only ran for 20 or so minutes, I need to get it done correctly and asap as im praying ive caused no long lasting damage..
 
Okay! Bled the system and plugged and refilled with new coolant I have warm air now and also the top hose is getting very hot and hard to even touch but hard to squeeze.. Bubbling Also in expansion tank after a good 20-25 mins??
 
Have you kept the tank cap on this time?It will boil if you dont.If so and its stll overheating is the rad fan cutting in?.As said this has no connection with the heater which of course has its own blower and if you use the aircon that will have its own separate fan in front of the condenser
 
I'm gonna just scrap the piece of **** lol I turned blowers on and forgot to clamp top hose going into the heaters so it blew off, I put it back on.. Now I've topped it all up again I have a traction light on and eml! And yeah cap was on whilst it bubbled the pressure is immense
 
Oh and I also have no hot blowers again Bye bye Audi you have defeated me
 
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