Heating system problem

That part is for a tfsi engine Dani and is a sealed unit which is the same as the one ECP sells if you input your reg, but for the 1.9 diesel it's a serviceable item as it splits in two, only if this is the same as on the 1.9 Tdi my mate has on his A4. Yet the one for my 2.0 Tdi 170 is different again as it's basically just a tube.

$_57.JPG

And this is the one for a Tfsi

209440630.jpg
 
That looks basically the same as mine iucle, two bolts holding it onto the engine block along with the stat inside it.
 
carlcall said:
That looks basically the same as mine iucle, two bolts holding it onto the engine block along with the stat inside it.
Click to expand...
Cool! Will take that off then, hope not much coolant will come off...
Cheers!
 
Argh sorry my bad, I had it in my head it was a tfsi.
 
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carlcall said:
That looks basically the same as mine iucle, two bolts holding it onto the engine block along with the stat inside it.
Click to expand...

Hey Carl,
Just finished the thermostat.
Tried the car, goes up to 90 and stays there,so it was definitely ******.
Now the heating still doesn't do its job. At the beginning it was blowing slowly hot,and I thought it was working. As soon as I set it to HI (when the car was at 90), it started blowing warm/coldish air.
Arrived home tried the pipes that go to the firewall. Tip one is cold, bottom one is hot...
Do you think the matrix is clogged?

Cheers!
 
Glad that side of it is sorted now!

Sounds like the matrix could also be blocked unless you have an airlock in the system. I've never worked on an Audi before so I'm not sure if these are susceptible to airlocks and if so where? I now every engine does the same think etc but they all have funny querks.

You could do with taking the top hose off and seeing if water is passing through the matrix quite easily, if it's flowing through slowly a RAD-FLUSH may work on it but once done you will have to flush the whole system out and refill it with fresh water/anti freeze.
 
Can you not find anyone local to scan it with VCDS as it maybe one of the many electrics flaps not working correctly in the heater assembly.

I had a faulty V113 Air Recirc Flap on mine but I never knew about it until I scanned it.
 
carlcall said:
Can you not find anyone local to scan it with VCDS as it maybe one of the many electrics flaps not working correctly in the heater assembly.

I had a faulty V113 Air Recirc Flap on mine but I never knew about it until I scanned it.
Click to expand...
Cheers for the tip. Don't have anyone to do the vcds scan. Will try with a normal obd scan. Let's see what codes do I get.

Will do the flush tomorrow, but just for the matrix (was thinking about a hose circuit- tube in on the top and another one on the bottom with water coming out into a bucket) and let's see what happens.
I have the HOLTS rad flush. The only problem is that it activates when when the temp is at 90, you have to run it for 15min at operating temp....
 
Just reverse flush with a hose you might be lucky but its likely that thecore of the matrix is blocked and you will have to change it.Again this isnt unknown
 
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Mike B said:
Just reverse flush with a hose you might be lucky but its likely that thecore of the matrix is blocked and you will have to change it.Again this isnt unknown
Click to expand...

Is there an order for the hoses to be inserted or it doesn't matter?
The top one is the cold one so I suppose that this is the return...and the bottom one the way in for the coolant.
 
carlcall said:
If you do end up replacing the matrix this seems an easy way to do it.
Click to expand...


Many thanks Carl, I hope it's not busted.

What I was thinking is the following:

The stat was gone for a while, (I know for sure as I was thinking that is normal). Being hot outside and mild weather during the winter I almost didn't use the heater.
So I think that over time,being the stat ******,the coolant didn't recirculate in the heater matrix-ending up to blockage over time.
So now when it's cold,I noticed the problem.

Does it make sense?

Cheers!
 
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No cos if the stat was stuck open the circulation would have been greater not less.The core of the matrix is made of fine tubes that can bung up if the right coolant isnt used from the start so it could be down to an earlier owner or just bad luck. Flushing isnt bound to clear the fine tubes but it s worth a try.Just connect to the colder side and let it flow out of the other.I wouldnt waste coolant when you refill the system to see if its worked.If it has replace some water with G13 or similar.ECPs is Ok
 
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Mike B said:
No cos if the stat was stuck open the circulation would have been greater not less.The core of the matrix is made of fine tubes that can bung up if the right coolant isnt used from the start so it could be down to an earlier owner or just bad luck. Flushing isnt bound to clear the fine tubes but it s worth a try.Just connect to the colder side and let it flow out of the other.I wouldnt waste coolant when you refill the system to see if its worked.If it has replace some water with G13 or similar.ECPs is Ok
Click to expand...

I Have hanged my coolant to g13 just the past summer, so I suppose it can be done to the normal coolant used.
Thank you for the tip. Will do and see what happens.
Do you think poring in some rad flush like this one would help?
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1455815672608251


Maybe pouring in with some water and leaving it for a while?
Cheers!
 
I have not had to flush mine but others have and a few have been lucky .Once these fine pipes are blocked theres not much hope.If yours are just going then a pressure flush might save the day but from what I have heard you will likely have to get a new matrix.Dont waste money on additives
 
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Job done. Flushed the heater matrix and now heat restored:) it's hot as in Maldives :))

Firstly it was a nightmare to remove the pipes from the heater matrix. I struggled for 30min (using pick tool and wd40) -no chance so went to my trusted garage.
The guys struggled for other 15min and they eventually success after using the pick tool and wd40. They also used players to gently grab the pipes and turn them to have some movement.
Finally off, we just inserted a garden hose and let it run. Water was running really slow,indication it was stuck. After a while we open the pressure more .... it definitely helped.
Left it run for a while and it unblocked the whole thing.

After 2 minutes the car started already mild was coming out the vents. At 75°C hit and at 90° tropical heat.

Happy overall that could solve the problem and didn't need to change the matrix itself.

Hope this mini guide :) helps you in case you find yourself in my position.
 
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Thanks again everyone who helped with tips and guidelines, especially to Carcall and MikeB! You guys are amazing!
 
really good result and pleased to know its worked again.You are one of the lucky ones but you worked for it.If you havent already put in coolant suggest you flush again cos the gunge will have got in other places.it might even be worth using Radflush cos it loves to settle at the bottom of the rad .
 
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Mike B said:
really good result and pleased to know its worked again.You are one of the lucky ones but you worked for it.If you havent already put in coolant suggest you flush again cos the gunge will have got in other places.it might even be worth using Radflush cos it loves to settle at the bottom of the rad .
Click to expand...

Do you mean using the rad flush just for the matrix or the whole system?
Thanks!
 
audi upgrades
The whole system iucle. It will ensure the rest of the heating system is clean.....but could also find a few leaks if that's why the heater matrix became blocked up due to the older owners using Radweld or similar.
 
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