Thinking the same as you @northpole, if I hadn't had a newish clutch I would look at a SMF conversion with a slightly skimmed and properly balanced flywheel. Not too much taken off as then you'd get that rattle plus the harmonics are off, but it would rev more freely.Finally the hint and nudge to get an uprated clutch for more power finally took hold! Yes return it and get a beefed up SMF setup that is street and track friendly( you'll thank yourself later on)
Have to agree with @northpole on this one, I had to read that twice, £1800 really. Is that clutch gold plated???What? F that! this is why i do all maintenance and repairs myself!And i don't even have a garage i do all this stuff outside. But 1800? You could have bought another one with less mileage and a full years MOT for that, and guess what? It would be a diesel s-line quattro in very good condition.
That's for clutch AND the DMF + new slave cylinder, which is what took the clutch out in the first place. I double checked the invoice it was £1700 less £500 back from the AA. It's been good as gold and smoother than it ever was, so I know it's been done properly. It's proper Luk gear too. That's what they cost. As I said I could have had done by bro for what it would have cost me if I did it but I would have had to get it to him. AA would have done that for me but I was working and had to get it done there and then.Have to agree with @northpole on this one, I had to read that twice, £1800 really. Is that clutch gold plated???
If you want a new part search online...Autodoc might have them if not the dealer might still sell them new. But if i was you i'd go onto facebook marketplace and look for someone breaking one in your area... it might be the cheapest solution and painted in the right colour already so it'll be just a swap over. Worst case you get it cheap and take it to a bodyshop and have them respray it so it's an exact match to your car. Either way it'll be cheaper than buying a new bumper.Hi guys, been lurking in this forum for a while trying to work through all the threads I can and soak up as much info as possible. I have the 2.0 tfsi quattro s-line. I have some damage on my bumper and wanted to buy a new (ideally primed) but any search throws up "non sline" results or they don't specify I've been going around in circles, so I was wondering do any of you have any go-to sites for parts, aftermarket or OEM as the car is a little dated now and I'd like to tidy up a few bits here and there.
I know somone breaking one of these in Watford on on 08 plate in a 'metallic black' . I think undamaged too. PM me for more info.Hi guys, been lurking in this forum for a while trying to work through all the threads I can and soak up as much info as possible. I have the 2.0 tfsi quattro s-line. I have some damage on my bumper and wanted to buy a new (ideally primed) but any search throws up "non sline" results or they don't specify I've been going around in circles, so I was wondering do any of you have any go-to sites for parts, aftermarket or OEM as the car is a little dated now and I'd like to tidy up a few bits here and there.
are you talking about the black light section ( once the lens is removed ) that sits in the slots, the one that has the two metal plates that contact with the metal springs of the light fixture ? didnt see if they could be unscrewed. All I need to do is to get to the wiring so I can add in the inline resistor that EM tuning provide to stop any canbus errors.I just unscrewed the lens one side and it drops out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well I have paid for these so may as well use them ..i used the same as type as @Jamsmoo can't beat the ease of installtion. no faults or flickering... the only thing is they are so bright they light up the ground under the bumper. But it does it's job.
@swisstony if you remove the numberplate light on the NS you'll be able to pull the OEM connector out a bit further and connect that cable to it, than you can replace the halogen bulbs for those led bulbs ( they connect in series so only needed on the NS) But it is 100% easier to use the ones both me and Jamsmoo used. the error canceller is inside the fixture and if it stops working it's a bit more expensive than just replacing the bulb but they last for years ( my mk4 golf used the same ones and it went to the scrappy with them on and still working, that as after 8 years of daily use).
sorry still dont get it ... when I remove the outer clear lens that holds the bulb ( single screw ) I am faced with a moulded connector unit with two small metal pads . There are no cables visible ... which is why I thought the cable is visible from inside the boot. On all my other cars, you take out the outer lens and the cable is visible, not on my audi hence the question.No need to pull the inside off. The lights are held in by a screw. Remove screw pull out light assembly and that cable should plug right onto the oem cable for the fixture. You'll have to replace the halogenbulb anyway so do that first if it doesn't fit the oem connector of the light assembly, than you'll have remove the interliner and fit that cable before it connects to the lights.
Ps you got elsawin to double check so I suggest you have a look in it if you have to remove the innerliner to connect it further down the line.
Pps the other lights are way easier.
LOL, will do and report back.Pull out the black housing once you remove the lens... a whole new world back there for you to see
I will take a photo at some point and you will see what I have and what you linked to are differentNo you just went the long way about it... but you got it sorted lol
Well blow.me down all the way up there? You should've gone for the ones we have, way easier and just an unbolt, replace bolt on job. As easy as the welcome lights in the doors.I will take a photo at some point and you will see what I have and what you linked to are different
The cable goes into the same cable that does the lock which at first made no sense
I’m with you ….. there’s no way of getting to the wiring for the bulb holder without taking the inner trim off the boot. It’s one piece which includes both bulb recesses and the boot release part too, and is screwed on from the inside, 8mm nuts from memory. The wiring connects in to this part..I will take a photo at some point and you will see what I have and what you linked to are different
The cable goes into the same cable that does the lock which at first made no sense
I did it without removing the inner trim but I got the ones that come with a complete housing and the error cancellers are integrated inside the housing of the led units... easy as unclipping the oem halogen housing(remove bolt than unclipped oem housing, just like in the video) than the connector comes down with the housing. Same goes for both. And I have big hands, and swapped them both in 5 minutes. And I'm quite sure it was the same for @Jamsmoo.I’m with you ….. there’s no way of getting to the wiring for the bulb holder without taking the inner trim off the boot. It’s one piece which includes both bulb recesses and the boot release part too, and is screwed on from the inside, 8mm nuts from memory. The wiring connects in to this part..
finally someone who gets it. I knew I wasnt going mad as when you look at the assembly you can see the lock mechanism and both number plate bulb holders are all one piece. Anyway after speaking to Trup he explained that the inline resisitor they supply does in fact use the lock mechanism to tie into . which intially was why I was confused as when I plugged it in the boot started making locking/unlocking noises. But seems that is how it works. Anyway all back together now and seems to be working..time will tell as the little metal prongs that bend and make contact with the metal pads are very sensitive to get into the correct angle.I’m with you ….. there’s no way of getting to the wiring for the bulb holder without taking the inner trim off the boot. It’s one piece which includes both bulb recesses and the boot release part too, and is screwed on from the inside, 8mm nuts from memory. The wiring connects in to this part..
Well see this is why you needed to open it up the cable does not connect to the light bulb housing but inline further up the stream....finally someone who gets it. I knew I wasnt going mad as when you look at the assembly you can see the lock mechanism and both number plate bulb holders are all one piece. Anyway after speaking to Trup he explained that the inline resisitor they supply does in fact use the lock mechanism to tie into . which intially was why I was confused as when I plugged it in the boot started making locking/unlocking noises. But seems that is how it works. Anyway all back together now and seems to be working..time will tell as the little metal prongs that bend and make contact with the metal pads are very sensitive to get into the correct angle.
that is all well and good saying get this part etc but I was trying to solve the problem with the part I had already. I totally get that the parts you both had was a lot simpler but the confusion seemed to be that what you have ( as in the boot lid layout ) is different to what myself and Gmac have. Which makes it even odder as how can two models of B7 be so different on such a simple item.Well see this is why you needed to open it up the cable does not connect to the light bulb housing but inline further up the stream....
Next time make your life easier and just get those things both Jamsmoo and I have lol
It would not work as the item you linked to needs a cable to be visible and Gmac and I dont have that ..simplesWell see this is why you needed to open it up the cable does not connect to the light bulb housing but inline further up the stream....
Next time make your life easier and just get those things both Jamsmoo and I have lol
A bit like this . You can see the two sections that house the number plate plights are moulded and in this pic you can see where the cable goes into the lock mechanismWhat does your oem housing look like ?
really odd then because believe me that black plastic housing is not coming out unless I take out the entire housing including lock. Must be different on avants is all I can sayI just went out and rechecked mine.. it is the exact same as yours... but the black part comes out. After you have removed the lens and halogenbulb...And after another check online the A4 b6 b7 b8 and the a6 c6 all use the exact same registration bulb holders and housing. I'll do a deep search in etka and report back.
A bit like this . You can see the two sections that house the number plate plights are moulded and in this pic you can see where the cable goes into the lock mechanism
View attachment 275480
I’ve got a spare one of these if you want it. Not far from you either I believe.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk