16396 Advance Setpoint not Reached- set up procedure ??

AGB-S3

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Just found error code 16396 stored in the ECU

16396/- Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded) P0012/ intermittent

Q Is there a procedure in VAG-COM to set the the Camshaft limits up ?
similar to the throttle body ???

Tnx-G
 
Nope... that code is generally the sign of low oil pressure in the head and/or a failing VVT tensioner

<tuffty/>
 
Any issues with the cam position sensors ? not adjustable , ?
 
Not adjustable...

The fault code indicates that the VVT didn't advance the cam enough in the timeframe the ECU is expecting...

<tuffty/>
 
I believe 16395 is a fault to do with the rested (retarded) state so cam has not gone back enough...

Possibly not oil pressure related I don't think but tbh its been a while since I have worked on a car with either code so can't recall specifics on this one (not had it myself) but have had the other code before

<tuffty/>
 
I believe 16395 is a fault to do with the rested (retarded) state so cam has not gone back enough...

Possibly not oil pressure related I don't think but tbh its been a while since I have worked on a car with either code so can't recall specifics on this one (not had it myself) but have had the other code before

<tuffty/>
Still pointing to a dodgy VVT Tensioner really then isn't it. Think mine needs one as I get this code every so often.
 
ross-tech >> Check/Replace Oil Sieve in Timing Case (Camshaft Adjuster)

Q is there filter in the BAM engine ???
 
can be cleaned ? ,
accessible from out side , or have to take the thing to bits ?
 
Out of interest, what happens if the VVT is disconnected? The APY and APX engines don't have one at all and still produced 225 PS, I remember Bill encouraging @Prawn to get his VVT up and running to use it for performance rather than default emissions.
 
I think the only bit removable without removing cams is the sensor, is that also a solenoid?
 
Need to remove the tensioner to clean so will need to remove the inlet cam

<tuffty/>
 
Going to fit a new sensor first , the one thats fitted is the original , the crank position sensor had seen better days , changing that made a big improvement ,
 
That is the error I got when I refitted the timing belt correctly at the weekend. Along with ****** point reached..

Screenshot 20190113 155839 Torque
 
Is the cam under proportional control or , simply full ****** and full advance ?
 
clever but not very then , or more things to go wrong as friend of mine would say , i found a write up about the ban engine , a while back, this appears to be linked to starting emissions ..is it actually used during driving , or just starting ?
 
On K04 cars its used to help spool... on big turbo builds using VVT to advance the cams can help spool by 500-1000 rpm

<tuffty/>
 
clever but not very then , or more things to go wrong as friend of mine would say , i found a write up about the ban engine , a while back, this appears to be linked to starting emissions ..is it actually used during driving , or just starting ?
k04 cars it is used for more than just cold starts/emissions cat warm up yes..
 
New sensor fitted , tempting to say its provided more low range torque , may just be psychosomatic , or wishful thinking )
But , how long should the CAM BELT last ?? this one is about 3 years old and looks quite ropy , tensioner at the limit as well ..time for new belt and wheel and tensioner set , pump looks ok, new 3 years back , 30k miles ..
 
I think my timing belt looks old and it was only fitted 6 months ago, the outside goes a bit shiney with lines in or are your edges frayed? When you say your tensioner is at the limit? It's just a hydraulic damper isn't it? I have been worried about touching the belt with oiley hands in case that wears it quicker.
 
What I got back was, the belt is slack and the tensioner is click stop and at its limit , with no adjustment , not the most simple to change in situe apparently ? this was noticed as a result of swapping the cam positions sensor ..
 
The tensioner dampers fail over time and should always be replaced when doing a belt... Most belt kits are belt and pulley so the damper is overlooked and these sag and can cause the belts to slip

<tuffty/>
 
yes .. quite possible , had a new belt and pump .may of not changed the tensioner .probably chaffed the belt with it running slack ..
 
You can change the damper by undoing the mount ends shuffling them out the way, but if you have got that far just slip on a new belt at the same time. I would mark the cam pulley and belt and crank pulley and belt, then when you get your new belt, simply mark the new belt on the same 2 teeth, to ensure it is re-fitted correctly. There's a knack to winding the crank back a few teeth to pick up the slack and get the new belt aligned. Some people fit the damper after aligning the belt but that for me was a nightmare, the belt fell off the top them the bottom etc etc..
 
New belt and tensioner fitted , oh and not to be left out , a water pump too , found slight coolant leak on the shaft , along with some more split pipes , this time on the re-circ can ,

back together , running fine , may even be going batter , less noise from the engine , slightly smoother at idle with air con on ..so far so good